We are planning a ~14 day trip in October from Paris through Bordeaux (and/or environs) ending in Bilbao. Appreciate thoughts on how much time to allow for Bilbao — as well as possible stop in San Sebastián. Other destinations we should consider? Also welcome thoughts on train vs rental car.
We like touring smaller towns — not so much big into wine tasting, though appreciate beautiful countryside.
X posted on France Forum for tips on Bordeaux
Thank you!
Our trip report from last year..
In 2016 I based in both San Sebastian and Bilbao for a visit to the Basque Country. I depended totally on public transportation. I'm a slow traveler and this is how I used my time:
Bilbao: 4 nights. Side trips to Bermeo (raining, so that was a quick visit) and Vitoria-Gasteiz (full day--it has a large walkable medieval center and several museums). I really liked Bilbao's non-touristy Casco Viejo (historic center), the city's architecture in general and of course the Guggenheim.
San Sebastian: 4 nights. Side trips to Zumaia/Getaria/Zarautz and Hondarribia. I'm not into the pintxo-bar scene that totally dominates San Sebastian's historic quarter, but it's a pretty city.
Bus travel is usually recommended between Bilbao and San Sebastian, because the Euskotren is very slow, but the scenery along the train route is very nice if you have extra time.
There was an art museum I'd have liked to see that was closed in both Bilbao and San Sebastian, or I'd have wanted another day in both places. It would also have been nice to see Lekeitio and Gernika.
There are lots of interesting places in the French Basque Country, too, but it sounds as if you don't anticipate spending time there on this trip. Many people traveling in the direction you are would want to spend substantial time in the Dordogne/Lot area east of Bordeaux.
The Search function here will turn up quite a lot of earlier threads on this topic, with suggestions for additional destinations.
Thank you (again) for this detailed reply and helpful advice. I am also following your guidance on my post to the France forum about that portion of the trip. A question: is it worth staying overnight (a night or two) in both San Sebastián and Bayonne, or would you advise picking one as a base for the area (and if so which one?)
Totally different places, Donostia-San Sebastian is on the Spanish side of the Basque Country and has a very different atmosphere to Baiona-Bayonne. This city is French, so no bars, no pintxos and a slower pace, but really beautiful both of them (just returned from Baiona today). If I had to choose, Donostia over Baiona, no doubt about it. But lodging prices in D-SS are quite expensive...
Yes, they are very different. San Sebastian felt much, much more touristy. But it is lovely. If you are confident you won't need a huge amount of time in SS (it has a nice museum, and it's nice to walk along the beach promenade if it's not too rainy), you could day trip there from Bilbao by bus, but you'd be passing near if not actually through SS on the way to Bilbao, so an argument could be made for spending a night there.
There's a lot to see in the area between Bordeaux and the Basque Country (not to mention points west of the latter). You may well decide you need to go back to see more.
