I am in the planning stages of a trip to Spain, where I have never been before. I would like the opinion of experienced travelers to Spain as to whether or not my plans are realistic, and if not, why not. We plan on flying into Madrid and spending two or three days there, without a car. I want to then rent a car and drive to the wine regions north of Madrid: Ribera del Duero and Rioja. I want to spend a few days going to wineries in those regions, which I understand will require I make prior arrangements (Not like Napa, I guess. But, that is one of reasons I want to go.) I then want to drive out to the western wine region: Rias Baixas, in Galicia. After a day or two there, I plan to drive to Barcelona, and spend a few days there, perhaps looking into the two wine regions in that area: Priorato and Penedes. I plan to drop off the car in Barcelona. Then take the train to Madrid for another day or two there, and fly home from Madrid. I have no idea how large the towns are in the wine regions I mentioned, or what traffic is like outside of Madrid and Barcelona. (I lived in Los Angeles for a long time, so I am assuming that driving in Barcelona and Madrid would be at least as bad, if not worse, than Los Angeles.) I would appreciate hearing from those that have driven in the north of Spain.
Posted by
Tresana, Highlands Ranch, CO, USA
23267 posts
It seems reasonable. I would consider an open jaw coming home from Barcelona. Saving time and money by not having to back track to Madrid. Second, have no experience with Spanish wineries but assume that they would be similar to Italy. All of the better wineries in Italy required advance reservations and a fee. Could not believe how fussy Italy was about reservations. Tried to walk into a couple of wineries without a reservation and was strongly refused. Our experience with traffic around Madrid and to the south was very easy. Fair number of toll roads but traffic was orderly. Watch the speed limits especially entering cities. The cameras are frequently with no discussion.
Posted by
Bloomington, IL, USA
9363 posts
You don't say when you are traveling, but most wineries are closed for tours during harvest season (September-October). And yes, you do need reservations. I visited one in Ribera del Duero (the town of Penafiel), which had no English tours. I was with a Spanish friend, so he translated when necessary. The town itself was just a tiny village.
Posted by
Rick Steves' Europe
16893 posts
I found the driving very easy in northern Spain (by highway) between Logrono, Burgos, and Leon, in my case. Parking worked out fine for a daytime stop in Burgos and overnight in Leon. The historic centers of these cities are pretty small and manageable. Winery stops described in Rick's book sounded easy enough to accomplish with reservations, although that was not my focus. Driving north to Oviedo and back along the coast were also easy, but with much more traffic between Bilbao and San Sebastian.
Posted by
Florida, USA
12172 posts
I've driven in the Ribera del Duero and Rioja regions. They are very easy driving, nice roads and light traffic outside of the cities. I didn't visit wineries (except wine museums and Sherry Bodegas in Jerez) because I rarely make plans/reservations ahead of time and you need them to visit most wineries/Bodegas in Spain. I'm guessing their tours will be nicer, at least more intimate, than any public tour in Napa - but can't say for sure.
I'd probably do it as a circle. From Madrid head toward Ribera del Duero. You can take in Segovia, Avila, Salamanca, Valladolid, Zamora and/or Burgos - all great cities reasonably convenient to your route.
After this area, head to Galicia (I haven't been to the Northwest corner of Spain yet), then back through Rioja - maybe see Bilbao, go inland to Vitoria, back to the coast at San Sebastian, then south from there toward Pamplona (great castle to visit in nearby Olite) and Zaragosa. I'd drop the car in Zaragosa and catch a train to Barcelona and fly home from there (even if a change in Madrid).
My favorite Spanish wine (at least so far) is in the Valdepenas area - but that's the opposite direction (SE of Madrid toward Granada).