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Order of places to visit in Andalucia from Madrid and back

After I posted this question on someone else's thread I realized that starting a new thread might be better for everyone. I am planning a weeklong family trip to Madrid and Andalucia in March and am considering an itinerary along the lines of one that David from Brisbane has suggested. We would fly into Madrid and take the first train available south. Does it matter whether we start in Granada, Sevilla, or Córdoba? I was thinking that we would start out by getting an AVE train to Granada, then going to Sevilla, then Córdoba, then back to Madrid, but I think I have noticed others have proposed starting in Córdoba. Is the train construction on the Granada line a factor to consider in deciding how to order the itinerary? Thanks to all for any and all advice or opinions.

Posted by
30 posts

Thanks! Ronda sounds wonderful, but given our extremely short time we are limiting ourselves to Granada, Sevilla, and Córdoba--and I do not even feel we have enough time in those sites. Another time, I hope!

Posted by
5202 posts

Chicago,

Does it matter whether we start in Granada, Sevilla, or Córdoba? I was thinking that we would start out by getting an AVE train to Granada, then going to Sevilla, then Córdoba, then back to Madrid, but I think I have noticed others have proposed starting in Córdoba.

We chose to travel to Córdoba, on day of arrival, mainly because I wouldn't like to be on a train for 4 hours after a Transatlantic flight. I also didn't want a 4 hour train ride to return to Madrid (from Granada), so it made more sense to visit Granada between Córdoba and Sevilla.

So... Here are some options:

  1. Fly into Madrid >> train to Córdoba >> train or bus to Granada >> train or bus to Sevilla (3N) >> AVE train to Madrid > Fly home
  2. Fly into Madrid >> train to Sevilla >> train or bus to Granada >> train or bus to Córdoba >> train to Madrid > Fly home
  3. Fly into Madrid >> train to Granada >> train or bus to Sevilla >> train to Córdoba >> train to Madrid > Fly home

You can check train schedules on the Renfe.com website to get an idea of how long it will take to travel from point A to point B.

How many nights will you have on the ground, not counting travel days?

Once you finalize your itinerary, you may want to book your tickets to the Alhambra

We took an ALSA Bus from Córdoba >> Granada; and from Granada >> Sevilla.

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
7175 posts

So much really depends on your arrival and departure flight times. This is especially the case given your short time frame. Others may have better info from recent experience, but due to the slow travel time from Granada to Madrid, the most efficient route by train may be ...
Arrive Madrid, then direct to Cordoba (1N)
To Granada (2N)
To Seville (2N)
To Madrid (2N)

Posted by
15573 posts

As Priscilla says, it's a long ride to Granada. Also, after the 9.35 train, there are are only two more, at around 2.30 and 5.30. When you land, you have to go through passport control, maybe wait for checked luggage, then wait for the next commuter train to Atocha station for your train onward. The chances of your being able to catch the 9.35 are slim to none. That leaves you hanging around the station and just boarding the train to Granada when you could be having lunch in Cordoba. There are frequent trains to Cordoba/Sevilla (same train) from Madrid.

I don't know how many nights you have in Spain. If it's 6-7, I'd choose between Cordoba and Sevilla and day trip to the other. Then Granada and lastly Madrid. With 8-9, then as Priscilla recommends, Cordoba/Granada/Sevilla/Madrid.

You say "family" which sounds like several people. Remember that every time you move, you lose time and you only go as fast as the slowpoke.

Posted by
30 posts

Thanks so much for these helpful replies. We (3 of us) have 9 nights and Madrid is important as well. Here is what I am now thinking:
Day 1: arrive Madrid, train to Córdoba, night in Córdoba.
Day 2: Córdoba sights, train or bus to Seville, night in Seville.
Day 3: Seville, night in Seville
Day 4: train or bus to Granada, Alhambra pm, night in Granada
Day 5: train to Madrid, night in Madrid
Day 6: Madrid, night in Madrid
Day 7: Madrid, day trip to Toledo, night in Madrid
Day 8: Madrid, day trip to Segovia, night in Madrid
Day 9: Madrid, night in Madrid
Day 10: fly home
Is it crazy to spend only 1 night in Granada? I was there many years ago and do not remember anything being terribly compelling aside from the Alhambra. And yes, I am eager to finalize our itinerary and book our tickets--thanks for the reminder!

Posted by
5202 posts

Consider taking this route, as aforementioned, to avoid the long trek from Granada to Madrid:

Córdoba >>Granada>> Sevilla>>Madrid.

Another plus for taking this route, is that you'll get to Madrid earlier, since the AVE train from Sevilla to Madrid only takes 2.5 hours.

Keep in mind that spending one night in any of your destinations, translates to only a few hours to visit & explore said destination, 2 nights will give you one full day, 3 nights means 2 full days.

If Madrid is important to you,
then you may want to allocate at least 2 full days there, so that doesn't leave you much time for taking day trips.

Enjoy Spain!

Posted by
7175 posts

Two days in Granada really is best, allowing you a full day to play with your Alhambra timings.

Day 1: arrive Madrid, train to Córdoba, night in Córdoba (1N)
Day 2: Mezquita, train or bus to Granada, night in Granada (2N)
Day 3: Alhambra
Day 4: train or bus to Seville, night in Seville (2N)
Day 5: Alcazar, Cathedral
Day 6: morning train to Madrid, night in Madrid (4N)
Day 7: Madrid, day trip to Toledo, night in Madrid
Day 8: Madrid, day trip to Segovia, night in Madrid
Day 9: Madrid, night in Madrid
Day 10: fly home

Posted by
676 posts

If it helps in your planning, I would highly recommend visiting the Alhambra by day and by night. They don't offer night visits every night (at least during the time of year we visited) so that factored into our planning. I can also recommend the Olive Oil Tour offered from Granada. It is both educational as to the history of olive oil and also fun; if you're foodies at all I think you'd really enjoy it.

Posted by
4029 posts

Yes to what Julie said about checking your dates with Alhambra night openings. We are taking a similar trip mid-March and because I wanted to see it at night, we had to put Granada last to catch a weekend (only open Fri-Sat nights at that time).

Posted by
30 posts

Wow, what great tips from everyone. Thanks, Priscilla, for pointing out the excellent reasons to make Córdoba our first stop from Madrid. I now think we will probably adopt David's itinerary, though I am still struggling with 2 vs. 1 night in Granada. If only we had a couple more days to play with--but we don't. Anyway, it should be a wonderful trip! Thanks so much to everyone who replied.

Posted by
7229 posts

If you haven't purchased your flights, yet, you might want to consider flying back home from Malaga. We're also flying to Madrid and seeing several of the same locations, but we'll be ending with several nights at Frigiliana after Granada and then flying out of Malaga. It's less transportation hours than back through Madrid.

Posted by
5202 posts

Chicago,

I like David's itinerary too, with one exception... I'd spend an extra night in Sevilla, and take one less trip while in Madrid.

  • Day 1: Arrive Madrid, train to Córdoba, night in Córdoba (1N)
  • Day 2: Mezquita, train or bus to Granada, night in Granada (2N)
  • Day 3: Alhambra
  • Day 4: train or bus to Sevilla, night in Sevilla (3N)
  • Day 5: Royal Alcázar, Cathedral, & Flamenco show
  • Day 6: Plaza de España, Plaza de los Toros, & Triana
  • Day 7: morning train to Madrid, night in Madrid (3N)
  • Day 8: Madrid, day trip to Segovia or Toledo, night in Madrid
  • Day 9: Madrid, night in Madrid
  • Day 10: fly home
Posted by
30 posts

Thank you for these additional suggestions. I studied in Madrid long years ago and want my family to see it now--even with 4 nights I don't think it's enough, partly because of the day trips I would like us to take (my heart is already broken because I have cut Cuenca and Salamanca out), partly because of the art museums that we will not be able to see all of, and partly just because it is a great city to walk around in. So that means no additional time in Andalucia, at least on this trip. But those are great ideas for some future trip! Also I wanted to thank Chani for her reply about the train schedule, which was extremely helpful, as well as her many other excellent posts about Spain logistics.

Posted by
5202 posts

Chicago,

As difficult as it may have been, I think you've made a wise choice to concentrate your time in the city you know best....Madrid!

If you spend your 9 nights there, you'll have time to visit the amazing museums, plus day trip to some of the nearby cities.

Andalucía will be waiting for you on your next journey! :-)

iBuen Viaje!

Posted by
30 posts

Hi Priscilla, actually we will be splitting our time between Madrid and Andalucia, along David's suggested itinerary (thanks so much David). Honestly, any decision is difficult--when I started planning, this was going to be a Madrid/Barcelona trip, and I am very sad to have eliminated Barcelona from our options. I know this will be a wonderful trip, even though we will not have "enough" time in any one place--I guess this is a modified version of leaving parties while still having fun. Thanks for your very helpful suggestions!

Posted by
5202 posts

Hi Chicago,

My apologies... I misunderstood your previous post & thought you'd decided to skip Andalucía on this trip.

You may consider skipping one of your destinations & thereby having more time in Madrid. Granada is the outlier in your itinerary now.

You may want to save Granada for a future trip when you visit Barcelona. Hopefully the railway renovations will be completed in the near future, and there will be an AVE train traveling this route (Barcelona< >Granada)

My travel motto is... "Sometimes less is more"... Meaning spending more time in less destinations. I think I borrowed this motto from Chani, if my memory serves me right.

Have a wonderful trip wherever you choose to go!

Posted by
30 posts

Priscilla, although you are right that logistically Granada is an outlier, the Alhambra is actually the reason for us to make this a Madrid-Andalucia trip instead of a Madrid Barcelona trip. If I were the only one traveling, I would make it Madrid-Barcelona--but my husband and daughter have never been to Spain and for me it would just be unthinkable that they go to Spain and not see the Alhambra. So that is what we will do, and for that reason it makes much more sense to me to add Sevilla and Córdoba--much as I will miss getting to Barcelona, which I have been longing to see forever.

Posted by
5202 posts

Hi Chicago,

I understand your dilemma... I'm surprised you didn't visit Barcelona when you were studying in Madrid.
Perhaps it was a long time ago, before the AVE, when it took 8 hours to travel (via train) from Madrid to Barcelona?

Hopefully you will get to Barcelona in the not too distant future! ;-)

Posted by
30 posts

Hi Priscilla, it was indeed before AVE trains--a very long time ago. What can I say except that I have kicked myself many times over the decades for not visiting Barcelona back then. I did see many other places. Some day, I hope. (And if the Alhambra ends up being sold out once I am ready to book, we may alter our plans and it may be this trip after all!)

Posted by
15573 posts

Hey Chicago!

I'm a little lost now what your plan is. What's most important is when you get to Granada and how long you have there. I don't see how you can properly see the Alhambra with only one night in Granada. Where will you be before and where will you be after? If you arrive in the morning at 11.15 from Cordoba (best case) you still have to get to your hotel, check-in and drop your luggage. Then you have to get lunch - even if it's just buying some stuff at a shop to take with you. There's nothing to eat at the Alhambra except snacks and drinks, mostly from vending machines. Then even a taxi to the site will take time. The afternoon tickets are from 2 to 6. That doesn't give you enough time!!! If you get to Granada in the evening, you would have most of the next day to see the Alhambra with an early start, then get the 17.32 train to Sevilla, but you still have to get from the Alhambra to your hotel to pick up your bags and get to the station. Or the 17.32 train to Madrid, arriving at 21.45. Either way, one night only lets you see the Alhambra. As long as you're going - and what are the chances you'll return? - spend the extra time and see a little of the city, the Albaicin, the Moroccan market . . . Trust me, it's a lot easier to return to Cordoba or Sevilla than to Granada. I've been to Spain twice since my first trip because of my 20-year old dream to see the Alhambra and I've returned to both towns, and others but not to the too-out-of-the-way Granada.

PS. Thanks for the compliment. Looks like Chicago's going to be positively balmy this week - a lot different from last February!

Posted by
30 posts

Hey, Chani!

Thanks so much for posting and helping me to figure out my family itinerary. I had just about decided on 1 night in Granada and 2 in Seville, but your argument for 2 nights in Granada is convincing. I have been playing around with different combinations and here is what I am now thinking:
Day 1---arrive Madrid, train to Córdoba, night in Córdoba
Day 2--Córdoba--Mezquita, walk around, possibly see Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, pm train to Granada, night in Granada
Day 3--Alhambra am, walk around Granada rest of day, night in Granada
Day 4--am train to Sevilla, Alcázares Reales, cathedral, Giralda, Plaza de España, night in Sevilla
Day 5--am train to Madrid, remaining nights in Madrid
Day 6--Madrid, possibly 1 art museum
Day 7--Madrid, possible day trip to Toledo
Day 8--Madrid, possible day trip to Segovia
Day 9--Madrid, possible day trip to Cuenca
Day 10--fly home from Madrid

Comments and logistical criticisms are welcome. Disappointed though I am about missing Barcelona this time, the weather in Chicago right now is so dreary that I am really looking forward to some Andalucían sunshine and palm trees--and I have never seen Córdoba, so that will be something new for me. (And, of course, I am very cognizant that mine is a First World Problem.) Many thanks to everyone!

Posted by
7175 posts

Your most probable train from Sevilla to Granada is IR 13941, dep 08:43, arr 12:07
With just the one afternoon then in Sevilla it would be impossible to get to all - Alcázares Reales, cathedral, Giralda, Plaza de España. I would stay an extra night and forego the Cuenca trip.

Posted by
30 posts

Hmmm. It looks like there are a number of trains from Sevilla to Madrid, so maybe seeing the cathedral and Giralda in the morning (Alcázares and Plaza de España the afternoon before) and then an afternoon departure? Thanks, David!

Posted by
30 posts

Oh, for another day or two to work with (First World Problems again)....It is looking to me like we should probably just plan 2 nights in Seville as you suggest and forego Cuenca. Many thanks, David and everyone else! I am also thinking that the ALSA bus between Córdoba and Granada and from Granada and Sevilla may be the way to go. Anyone have opinions on that? I really appreciate everyone's input--this has all been very helpful!

Posted by
16 posts

I have taken the bus from Sevilla to Granada and it worked out great.

Posted by
10 posts

We spent 10 nights in Spain in mid to late November, and focused on Andalucia.

We flew into Sevilla, arriving around noon, and stayed three nights there, three nights in Cadiz, one in Arcos de la Frontera, two in Cordoba, and ended with one night in Madrid.

Your last itinerary sounds doable, but I would suggest you spend two nights in Sevilla, giving you one full day. Sevilla is a city full of life, lots of things to do morning, noon and night. Every time of day brings a new adventure. The food is great, the people are friendly, the spirit unforgettable. We loved the Santa Cruz neighborhood - close to everything! I'd suggest taking a taxi from the train station - only €7 or so, as I recall.

I've visited on past trips Toledo, Segovia and Cuenca. Though they all have plenty of attributes to recommend them, I'd pick just two, and as mentioned above, spend two nights in Sevilla.

Have fun - you can't go wrong with any of these wonderful cities.

Posted by
15573 posts

Day 2--Córdoba--Mezquita, walk around, possibly see Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, pm train to Granada, night in Granada
Day 3--Alhambra am, walk around Granada rest of day, night in Granada
Day 4--am train to Sevilla, Alcázares Reales, cathedral, Giralda, Plaza de España, night in Sevilla

Yeah, I can't come up with anything better without cutting a night from Madrid. Skip the Alcazar in Cordoba, not worth the time. See if there's a horse show at the Royal Stables (it's only about an hour and worth seeing, even if you aren't gungho on equines) on your arrival day. For something a little different during the day, go to the Viana Courtyards, especially if it's sunny.

In Sevilla, take in a flamenco performance at La Casa del Flamenco. It's very good, much more authentic than the places with drinks and food. Allow enough time for the Alcazar and its gardens. Consider going there first - I think the cathedral opens later. Climbing the tower was interesting and I enjoyed seeing Columbus's tomb, but otherwise, I though the cathedral was much better on the outside, especially after dark.

Sorry to hear it's dreary back home - my info said temps in the high 40's . . . but if it's gray, sigh. Still, not -5 F Though "warm" weather doesn't seem to be doing much for da Bulls.

I was in Andalusia last year in March, the orange trees were in bloom and the scent was intoxicating Though maybe it was helped by a little vino.

Posted by
30 posts

Many thanks, Chani and everyone, for these helpful responses, including your opinion of the Alcázar in Córdoba. Rick's book arrived in the mail yesterday and I have just now purchased our Alhambra tickets, so this trip is coming together. ¡Estoy muy emocionada de volver a España!

Posted by
5202 posts

Chicago,

I am also thinking that the ALSA bus between Córdoba and Granada and from Granada and Sevilla may be the way to go. Anyone have opinions on that? I really appreciate everyone's input--this has all been very helpful!

My mom & I took the ALSA bus on the two routes you intend to take. The bus was comfortable, the ride was relaxing (it's always nice when someone else is doing the driving!) & the scenery was great... You'll see many olive orchards on rolling hills, and some white towns in the distance. Overall, it was a good experience. We took a taxi from the bus station(s) to our hotel(s) in Granada & Sevilla-- very reasonably priced, around €8-10. You may want to take a snack on the bus.

Posted by
30 posts

Priscilla, should I buy our ALSA bus tickets now for travel the end of March, or wait until we are there? Forgive me if this has been answered before. If we miss our scheduled bus, do you know whether the company will allow us to use it on a later one? Thanks so much.

Posted by
243 posts

I am in almost the same situation as you. We are planning a Spain trip off season (November) and plan on focusing on Madrid an Seville. We will have 9 or 10 nights, we are still in the planning phase. We are also from Chicago (actually Oak Park). Are you taking Iberia Airlines direct flight to Madrid?? There are not many flight options that are great. Could you post your experiences when you get back?

Posted by
30 posts

Hi Nick, I will be sure to post a trip report once we get back. Getting ready to make plane reservations; you are right that the choices are not great. Everyone here has been very helpful! Looking forward to seeing Spain again after such a long time.