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Oct/Nov write and explore suggestions

I'm going to be attending a writer's retreat in La Alpujarra area at the end of November to work on my next novel. I would like to spend three weeks to a month before that seeing part of part of Spain and spending part of the time in a small, charming town writing and soaking up the ambience. I'll fly into Madrid and see the museums. I was thinking of taking the train to Barcelona, perhaps staying some smaller towns near there, going to Valencia (I have a relative who will be there) then Malaga, maybe Nerja, Granada, Córdoba and back to Madrid. The retreat is nearest to Granada, so that would be at the end of November. Is this too ambitious a schedule? My alternate plan is just to stay in Andalusia, see Granada, Córdoba and Malaga, find my little village, and write. One friend suggested Formentera, or Minorca or Mallorca, but in November? What village would you recommend?

Posted by
27142 posts

I'm unclear on the timing. Do you mean you have 3-4 weeks for the traveling-around time, then you'll settle into a village for a while? That's enough time to hit a lot of Spain's highlights.

I'm confused about why with Plan 1 you'd return to Madrid from Andalucía only to turn around and immediately head back to the Granada area. Otherwise, I think you could just about squeeze everything in, though I'm puzzled about the omission of Seville, which is also absent from your alternative plan. Make it four weeks and include Seville. Alterantively, to reduce the amount of geography being covered, you could leave Barcelona (one of my favorite cities in Europe) for another trip and take a few side-trips from Madrid; Toledo, Segovia, Cuenca are my top three.

I have never been to the Balearic Islands so cannot comment there, but I think you're right to at least question what they would be like in November. It's my impression that Mallorca has the most to recommend it from a tourist standpoint, but that might not be what you want for a writing retreat!

Posted by
7175 posts

Even with a month, your list of destinations (Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, Malaga, Nerja, Granada, Córdoba) prior to a week in 'pre retreat' would seem very busy and rather ambitious.
I would suggest a week in each of the big cities - Barcelona, Madrid, Sevilla.
Then somewhere in Andalusia, less touristy, which gives you a similar atmosphere to the Alpujarras (a lovely area btw). I would suggest Baeza/Ubeda.

Posted by
3 posts

Thanks for the replies, acraven and djpsyd.
Seville is the only city in Spain that I've visited previously (in my youth) which is why I didn't include it.
I should clarify: I'd be launching my retreat (Nov. 15 - 29) from Granada and then return to Madrid for my return flight. I could plan to be in Spain for 4 weeks before the retreat, six weeks altogether, although that length of time might be pushing my budget. Hopefully this time of year will offer off-season prices?
I guess I'm caught between two desires: one, to see the art and culture of Madrid and Barcelona (tempted also, while researching, by Girona, Besalu, Cadaques, but maybe not the season for that?), and the other option: to just center myself in Andalusia and work on my writing, with side trips to Granada, Cordoba, Nerja, and yes, djp
syd, maybe Baeza and Ubeda. And yes, I'm aware of the irony of wishing to escape the distractions of home (Vancouver, Canada) only to be distracted by the sites and art of Spain. Don't we want it all!
djp_syd, do you see either Baeza or Ubeda as a place to locate for a week and write? What about Rhonda? Thoughts about Nerja? I know end of Oct. and beginning of November might get chilly in some locations.
Thanks for your generous feedback.

Posted by
4574 posts

First off, I'll say I haven't been yet, but I am traveling same time. Weather in Andalusia will be warmer than Vancouver. Wunderground website allows you to see historical temperatures for a given month - often how I base my dates of travel.
Something that came up in my planning is that Oct 31 & Nov 1 may have more locals travelling in order to spend All Saint's Day in their home town. Nov 1 may see more things closed as well.
Where exactly is La Alpujarra? Are you just meeting in Granada, or spending time in Granada for the retreat?
Antequera? It is a train hub for Malaga, Granada, Cordoba and Seville....also many of the other White Cities. All within one or so hours. However, research indicated it wasn't inexpensive. Air BnBs were not as reasonably priced as Granada...but maybe you have different criteria. It may act as a bit of a bedroom city for Malaga but isn't as overrun by tourists as Ronda. It is a hill town with history, however. You can also get to Nerja from there. The down side of a 'stay put and do day trips' is that you will run into return trip costs rather than stringing them all together in chain. The bonus is that if you are on a writing roll, you don't have to pack and go somewhere else.

Why go to an island when there is so much to explore in closer proximity to the 2 places you need to be? Granada and Madrid?

Posted by
7175 posts

Baeza and Ubeda offer similar surroundings with Christian Renaissance influences rather than Moorish, as in other more visited parts of Andalusia. Without specific attractions and the tourist crowds they draw, you are in the midst of beautiful and peaceful surrounds, hopefully to inspire and promote your work. Ronda may be an option for you, however I don't know Nerja. Are you planning to get a car ?

Posted by
7175 posts

Overall to give you maximum flexibility ...
Arrive in Madrid for 6 nights
Train to Valencia for 3 nights
Train to Barcelona for 6 nights
Fly to Malaga for 6 nights (visit Nerja, Ronda, Granada)
To Baeza/Ubeda (or ???) for 6 nights
To Alpujarras for 2 week retreat

Posted by
3 posts

Maria, the Alpujarras region is on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. It should be a pretty and quiet place to work.

Thanks for the itinerary suggestion djp_syd. I wonder, at that time of year, if one can just play it by ear instead of booking everything ahead (with the exception of sites like the Alhambra).

To answer the question about renting a car: I have heard that drivers can be impatient (read: crazy), and although I'd love to see the countryside and explore at my leisure, I'm not sure I'm up to driving and navigating and finding parking, especially using my limited Spanish.

Thanks all.

Posted by
27142 posts

Barcelona's averages highs and lows for the month of November are both much warmer than Madrid's. Madrid is both hotter in the summer and colder in the winter. I assume that Cadaques (possibly deadish in November??) would be similarly mild, but Girona (great place) and Besalu (nice but very small) are inland and might be cooler; I haven't checked.