Northern Spain Itinerary Help - 12 Days. Where to go after Bilbao?

Time of year?

Oops, definitely should have included that. I’ll go back and edit. I’ll be traveling in late May/early June.

I think the Picos de Europa area is worth seeing even if you don't plan to hike. The scenery is the most dramatic I've seen in Spain (haven't been to the Pyrenees).

I assume the time in LaRioja is because you're a wine fan. I am not, so I can't comment on that part of the itinerary beyond saying that Laguardia is atmospheric.

Other places I liked--though I can't say you should necessarily substitute any of these for places on your planned itinerary--are Vitoria-Gasteiz and (for a few hours) Hondarribia.

Thanks for your suggestions and reply. What might some suggested itinerary items be on a two day Picos de Europa trip that doesn’t involve strenuous hikes? Your description of the area did peak my interest.

I didn't have a car, so I was limited to what I could do via public transportation. My only real choice was a once-a-week one-day bus tour. It stopped in Potes (lunch break) and at the base of the Fuente De cable car so we could ascend. Check out a couple of guidebooks to Spain. I know Rick has a bit about the Picos de Europa area. There may be more in Rough and Lonely Planet. I'm not sure, because I more or less ignore guidebook contents about areas inaccessible by train/bus.

I know Covadonga is a site of some religious importance, and I think there are some alpine lakes not too far away. There's some very limited bus service to those lakes, but it only runs from early July to early September, or something like that. I had hoped to see the lakes, but I was too early and the buses weren't running yet.

acraven gives a good description of the Picos de Europa, a really spectacular area that defies the stereotypical image of Spain.

Potes is definitely worth some time if you are in the area. An atmospheric medieval town located in a mountainous valley. Makes for a great base for a few nights to explore the Picos de Europa National Park.

For your travels in the Picos de Europa, you could also stay a few nights at the Fuente Dé Parador (http://www.parador.es/en/paradores/parador-de-fuente-de), which is a historic hotel that sits below a string imposing vertical mountains. From there you can take nature walks of varying difficulties and a cable car that takes you all the way to the top of the mountains.

If you are looking for a place to eat close to Potes/Fuente Dé, I would heartily recommend Mesón del Oso (http://hoteldeloso.es/en/the-restaurant/), which is a rustic tavern in a picturesque forested valley. They serve the traditional Cantabrian/Asturian mountain cuisine.

As acraven mentioned nearby Covadonga is an important place for Spanish history. Known as the "cradle of Spain", it is a pilgrimage site dedicated to the Battle of Covadonga of 718 AD which set off the Reconquista. There is also a Holy Cave, where lies the Visigothic Kings Pelagius and Alfonso I, the first kings of Asturias (precursor to the Kingdom of Spain). Note that the hike to the famous Covadonga lakes can be strenuous.

Close by is the interesting town of Oviedo, that's also worth a few nights. It's the capital of the Asturias region, known for its medieval old town and 8th century Visigothic Cathedral, also apparently Woody Allen's favorite city in Spain.

Hopefully these give you a few ideas :)

I agree that Comillas and Santillana del Mar dont sound compelling, ep. given your interests. (I am only commenting in so far as I have researched and planned a trip to N. Spain for the coming summer, but haven't yet been). I do think you would enjoy the Picos de Europa even without big hikes - in Covadonga there is the Basilica in addition to what Carlos describes, and in Potes, you can take the funicular to the mountain top and just hike minimally to look around. I think the drive from the coast to Potes or Covadonga would be remarkable. I also think its important to consider where you are coming from - by which I mean, people recommend the Picos as worthwhile because its so different than the rest of Spain, but if you live in the mountains wherever you are from, then site seeing in mountains would be less interesting than visiting the coast, perhaps. That said, I am interested in the Basilica in Covadonga, and I know there are several churches near Potes that have relics (one supposedly has - I cant remember now - a jawbone of someone? lol), and several churches have frescoes.
I like your time in Rioja - there is a LOT to do in the area for those three days and it fits your description of your interests. Hopefully you are doing a lot of reading about it and plan to tour widely. Oviedo has a couple of churches famous for their frescoes (world heritage sites), so you could drive to Covadinga (I would choose Covadonga or Potes), and see the cultural things there and then on to Oviedo. Comillas and/or Santillana del Mar strike me as places to stop for 2 hours to walk around but not places to spend a day

Just note that at San Juan de Gaztelugatze it is a long and, partly, steep walk from the car park to the hermitage. So if you're doing that, perhaps plan on the whole morning there when considering where to go next.

I did a similar itinerary in 2017 and stopped in Santillana del Mar and Comillas, but enjoyed Picos de Europa much more! As mentioned above, I would highly recommend a visit to Potes and take the tramway at Fuente Dé. I stayed two nights at Hotel Oso
http://hoteldeloso.es/en/home/ (between Potes and Fuente De), small family-owned hotel, with pool and wonderful restaurant. Other suggestions would be a visit to Cangas di Onos, Covadonga Basilica and The Lakes of Covadonga (easy walking).

Please let us know what you finally decide for your itinerary. You will have an awesome trip!

Since you mentioned that you are interested in wine/local specialties, when in Asturias make sure to try the local Sidra (hard apple cider) and make sure they pour it in the traditional manner (from very high up)!

@acraven -
I find some of the guidebooks I have are insufficient for Northern Spain so I must not have the right ones. For many of the towns I'm interested in, the descriptions are brief. Things like "X town is beautiful, try and visit!" without descriptors as to how to get there, where to stay, and other logistical details. I'll look into the sources you mentioned.

After reading your posts and the posts of others, I am liking the idea of a trip to Picos de Europa. Maybe seeing Potes, Gijón, and/or Oviedo. While there, I'd like to incorporate Covadonga and the alpine lakes, maybe a trip on the cable car. I'll look into the bus schedule in case it begins earlier, but do you know from talking to others if the routes are accessible by private car at any time of year? Thanks for any continued guidance you can offer.

@Carlos -
What great suggestions! Thank you for taking the time to respond so thoughtfully. Your post has given me many ideas of areas to explore - I only wish I had more time to see everything that I wanted to. It truly is impossible to see all that the country has to offer and is worth many return visits.

I love the idea of checking out a cider house. Do the cider houses in Asturias differ than the cider houses near San Sebastian? Let me know if you have recommendations for ones for us to visit, especially in late May/early June as it appears that may not be peak season. Not sure how much that matters as it can be hard to tell from reading guidebooks and online information.

@Jessica -
Thank you for backing me up - I wasn't feeling intrigued and needed a push that my instincts were steering me in the correct direction. Where I live has some beautiful areas, but is flat overall. I would find mountains like the ones in Picos de Europa breathtaking.

I am very excited for the Rioja portion. The research there is coming along and I've done a fair amount of reading but there's always more to do. Anything in your research that's stood out as unique or can't miss activities, tours, or dining experiences? I am planning mostly winery tours with some nice booked lunches and strolls through villages.

@Nick -
Thank you! I will factor this into our tour planning for the day and make sure to not underestimate the amount of time or effort the walk will take.

@Brenda -
Great to hear from someone who has done a similar trip in the past. The hotel that you posted looks idyllic, what a special place. If I can make that work with the limited time I have in the country and the zigging and zagging I plan to do in my rental car, I will plan to stay there. Thank you for your wonderful suggestions and help.

@kmkwoo -
Thank you. I will hope to post a trip review when I return, hopefully incorporating some of the good advice I've received here!

Asturias is the home of Sidra and produces the vast majority of Sidra in Spain. They pour it in a very special manner that gives the Sidra a nice carbonation and smoother flavor. Most resturants in Asturias will offer Sidra with the meal, but if you want to go to a specialty Sidraria, Sidreria Tierra Astur Gascona in Oviedo is a good option, it's located in the old center.

JR, I really can't help you too much with the Picos, Bilbao or San Sebastian. But I have some suggestions for La Rioja.

You say you are visiting the Basque Country, and you have listed Laguardia, and you are excited for the Rioja part of your trip. Without trying to be snarky, you know that La Rioja is an autonomous community and Rioja Wine is a DOC that includes parts of Alava and Navarra. Laguardia is in Alava politically but Rioja DOC. That said a few suggestions.

First, I would suggest staying in Briones. It is a "pueblo con encanto". It is also where the Vivanco Winery and Museum is located. Wherever you stay in Rioja, it is a must visit. Briones has other wineries, and is close to Haro, where there are some of the bigger wineries. Just across the Ebro from Briones is San Vicente with a castle and some smaller wineries you can visit, and just past it is Abalos, a small village with some good wines too.

If you are in La Rioja between the 8th and the 12th you must visit Logroño, it is the fiesta of San Bernabe. The old part of Logroño becomes a medieval city recreating the siege of 1521. The streets are full of stands selling all kinds of crafts and food. There is also a "ronda" the local guard who patrol the city and on the outside of the walls there is a French encampment. On the 11th, the day of San Bernabe, they have give out a fish and a small ceramic cup of wine, as it was fish and wine that got the locals through the siege.

Finally, in May the 1000th anniversary of the Birth of Santo Domingo de la Calzada will be celebrated. During the year they will be having special things to see in the town of Santo Domino de la Calzada. (He built a bridge for the pilgrims. He also brought back to life a rooster and a chicken in part of a miracle. In the Cathedral there is a chicken coop with a rooster and chicken to commemorate the miracle.)

One attraction of Comillas is some Modernista architecture, including one of Gaudi’s early villas. Santillana Del Mar has medieval buildings, most importantly, the Romanesque Colegiata. It is quite close to Altamira, where you can see the (reproduction) prehistoric painted cave, as well as some artifacts in the museum. There are also caves in the area open to the public, such as Cueva del Castillo in Puente Viesgo and Cueva de Tito Bustillo in Ribadesella. If the latter interests you, check on opening times and whether you can reserve a visit. There is also a museum attached to the latter.
One other attraction of Ribadesella is the grand houses built along the river bank, financed with money made in the West Indies.

The Picos de Europa are accessible by car. If you are renting the car in Bilbao, you should be fine getting around with it. Check Via Michelin for routes and drive times.
As for having enough time, or too much time, have you plotted your days? I like to research a place and pick the things I'd like to do/see and then calculate how much time I would need for that. But in general I think your time in each place looks good. I do wonder if trying to squeeze Oviedo or Gijon into what you already have in 12 days would spread you too thin, and add many hours to your driving, so Im not sure you should go further west/add more places.

Try Pindal Cave.
Wayner iNES