As Bets said: The real issue is what effect inclusion in the blue and yellow book has on certain businesses. How RS or employees of RS are treated has only a loose connection with how the ordinary-tourist customer is treated. True restaurant and hotel reviewers for major publications dine and sleep incognito. That's not the case here where everyone is "my good friend."
I learned this in Sorrento on my first trip to Europe with my husband in 2009. He'd never been to Europe before and was naive about how wait staff could nicely and easily manipulate customers. We went to a restaurant that RS had recommended and was filmed in having a great time and eating great food. We were seated outside and it was lovely.
Then it got complicated with overselling on wine in the form of convincing my husband that he needed a better wine than came with his meal, charging full price for the better one, but not bringing the other one and charging extra for mineral water for me instead of subbing it for the wine I turned down because I don’t drink, which the waiter said he'd do.
At the end of the meal, I paid in cash and waited for the change which was about €10 at a time when €1 = about $1.45. And waited. And asked. And waited. I was planning to round up and leave that little tip on the tray, but what finally came back was about half what was supposed to according to the bill. At that point I gave up and left the tray bare.
It was a good lesson learned about what to watch out for. And I immediately thought that ordinary travelers like us shouldn't expect to be treated the way RS is at the same places, even if we mention his recommendation. It was disappointing, especially since I'd traveled in Europe 4 months (1977-78) and lived in Germany 3 years (1982-85) and had never experienced anything similar anywhere, including Italy, during that time.
I'm sure that experience made me less enamored of RS recommended restaurants and more inclined toward using other review sources, asking hotel staff, walking around, reading menus, checking the clientele -- and looking for dogs.