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Malaga

I'm planning our first trip to Spain. In his book, Rick Steves only has two pages devoted to Malaga. Is there nothing to see there?

Posted by
882 posts

Picasso was born in Malaga. There is a museum dedicated to his work, although most pieces would be familiar only to fans of the master. The Cathedral is worth a visit although not spectacular like those in Sevilla or Toledo. Malaga seems accessible to a traveler - an uncommon feeling in a city of a half-million.
The local futbol team is flat out awful - mired in Liga 3.

Posted by
9 posts

I love Malaga. It’s a real city with Spaniards going about their lives, but far fewer tourists than you’ll find in other cities in Andalusia. There’s a branch of the Pompidou and ancient Phoenician ruins, a wonderful central market, and lots of great restaurants and bars. At the beach, you can eat fresh sardines grilled right on site in giant wheelbarrows. I was there for a week each visit and highly recommend it.

The NYT did a piece about it (focusing on Picasso) last year:

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/04/14/travel/malaga-spain-picasso.html#commentsContainer

Posted by
6567 posts

It’s been decades since I spent time there, but I enjoyed its Alcazaba. It affords some great views.

Posted by
320 posts

Malaga has similar features to many Andalusian cities...but all generally inferior. So you'd be better off spending more time in Seville, Cordoba or Granada than in Malaga. For example, the Alcazar is older and ruined (not nearly as fabulous at Seville or Granada!).
Of course, it does have beautiful architecture. But I would disagree about the tourists. Brits love it here and the main part of town was a riot of partying our 1 night in town. And it seemed like a lot of tourists, not locals. The main area is kinda a huge shopping area and the cruise ship port isn't very pretty. We wanted to spend more time on the beach but it was raining in October.

However, if you've seen a lot os Spain it doesn't hurt to check a place out. I just would hate for you to spend 2 days of a 10 day trip here, for example.

Posted by
7569 posts

Sure, there are things to see and Malaga is a pleasant enough town, a bit work-a-day, and loaded with ex-pats, but also a good transportation hub with a handy airport, train station, and bus network. It probably ranks down on the list because Seville, Cordoba, and Granada hog the spotlight, with much higher profile major sights.

Cadiz I think gets sort the same overlook, but is smaller and more pleasant than Malaga.

Rick Steves books are notorious for only covering a relatively few places well, rather than a bunch of places poorly, but plenty of info is available in other guides or on the internet.

Posted by
1613 posts

We loved Malaga! Spent 2 nights there and wish we had 3. There are tons of things to do in Malaga. Some of the things we did:

Visit the Catedral de Malaga
Museo Picasso Malaga
Alcazaba - this was one of the highlights of our visit. This is a Moorish fortress on a hilltop. The walk to the top was spectacular. There are towers, pathways, gateways, Roman columns, and patios with fountains, and a small Nasrid Palace. Beautiful gardens with lush greenery and exotic flowers. Stunning views of the city, the port, and the Mediterranean.
Castillo de Gibralfaro - A lovely walk up switchback pathways to access the top. Ruins of a castle and ramparts.
Mercado Atarazanas - browse, shop, eat
Take a walk along the seaside promenade.
Have drinks at sunset overlooking the port.

There are many more art museums. The tastefully restored historic center is beautiful with gorgeous architecture, narrow pedestrian streets, cafes, restaurants, and shops.

I notice that Rick does this a lot - he omits wonderful, interesting places from his guidebooks.

I suggest reading Lonely Planet, Michelin Green Guide, and Fodors in addition to Rick's guidebook.

Posted by
187 posts

I'm with kmkwoo. We also love Malaga. Our first time in 2010 we only spent two nights there and we've been coming back ever since.

I've also done all of what's on kmkwoo's list and I would add another fabulous place that I can't wait to see again. Jardín Botánico Histórico La Concepción. So many interesting plants and flowers and their cactus area was huge! This was 5 years ago and we're going back in May. We also had lunch at their cafe and it was also fabulous. Highly recommend this place.

Posted by
187 posts

Oh and go to Lepanto for the best pastries and Casa Aranda for churros y chocolate. yum! cannot wait!!

Posted by
5271 posts

But I would disagree about the tourists. Brits love it here and the main part of town was a riot of partying our 1 night in town. And it seemed like a lot of tourists, not locals.

Brits tend to fly into Malaga airport and disperse out into the many tourist resorts on the Costa Del Sol catering to the sun, sea and sangria crowds. When I've been in Malaga it certainly has been lively but most of the crowds were Spanish, either local or otherwise.

As to the OP's question, yes there is plenty to see and do in Malaga, it's a great city. It would appear that Rick Steves tends to focus on the obvious, well worn tourist destinations so just because he only gives a location scant attention doesn't mean it isn't a worthwhile visit.

Posted by
1097 posts

And a place where you can catch a train and walk the Caminito Del Rey.

Posted by
1020 posts

Malaga is a great city! It has some fantastic restaurants. A lot of expats live in the surrounding coastal areas but the city itself is very Spanish.

Posted by
5399 posts

Maybe American tourists haven’t found Malaga, but European tourists definitely have. It is a cheap flight airport, so lots of hen and stag parties (bachelorette and bachelor parties) happening. The food scene was abysmal and unauthentic to us as everything catered to international party goers. If I was in Andalusia, I would go elsewhere.

Posted by
5271 posts

@Emily - Are you sure you're not referring to the areas surrounding Malaga? Yes, Malaga airport is a destination for many European tourists including stag and hen parties but they tend to go to the surrounding towns such as Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola etc where the infrastructure, including many bars and restaurants, caters for the foreign tourist. Malaga city itself is nothing like those towns and I found the food scene to be very good and the bar and restaurant crowds very different to those that frequent the 'ex-pat bars' in Torremolinos etc.

Posted by
5399 posts

Malaga city center, last year. In the morning we had to jump over vomit puddles. Don’t get me wrong - it’s overall a pretty city. I just think it is already discovered and there are better places.

Posted by
27148 posts

I liked Malaga, too, but to me it pales in comparison to Seville, Cordoba and Granada. So many people plan only a couple of days in Seville and one each in Cordoba and Granada. To those folks I would say: don't go to Malaga until you've spent more time in the other cities. I'd say the same thing about Ronda, and even Cadiz, though for a traveler really bothered by very touristy places, Cadiz can easily be recommended.

Posted by
337 posts

Malaga is lovely and scenic, but it unquestionably has fewer "must-see attractions" than Sevilla, Granada, Madrid and Barcelona. With that said, I loved my time there, and I also loved staying in Torremolinos, touristy and full of expats as it obviously is.

Every traveler has their own priorities. If you want sand, sun, boquerónes and Sangria, there's really not a better place than Torremolinos. Fine Andalucian cuisine is not on offer, though.

Posted by
242 posts

Does Malaga have must-do sights? No. But, we loved Malaga and found it non-touristy and relaxing, with great food and a lovely place to stay at the Icon Malabar.

Posted by
413 posts

Seeking some advice.
We have a trip to greater Andalucia planned for October 2024.
Our current schedule is:
Málaga - 5 nights (we will be arriving jet-lagged from the USA)
Granada - 4
Sevilla - 4
Córdoba - 4
Then Madrid for 6 nights.

We only travel by train (bus as a last resort). Never rent cars. We are museum and food people. We love to walk around/in cities. We stay in old city centers in AirBnBs.

What would you change?

P.S. our previous trip to España was 23 days in 2018 to: Bilbao, Donostia, Iruñea, Sitges, Barcelona.

Posted by
307 posts

Your trip sounds fantastic Dave. Maybe I'd spend one day less in Córdoba and add it to Seville.

Posted by
1 posts

Dave
We are also from Colorado and you will love Spain! Everyone is so, so nice! We spent a significant amount of time there last summer and I would suggest adding Barcelona to your itinerary. The Sagrada Familia and a day trip to Montserrat were highlights. Seville was nice, very hot, but not as impressed after seeing the city in a 6 hour private tour, and our least favorite of all the 12+ cities we visited. I don’t think you need as much time there as you have allotted but that is IMHO. Don’t forget to see Toledo and Segovia (day trips from Madrid). Happy planning and safe travels!

Posted by
27148 posts

I definitely wouldn't cut the time in Seville. It's much larger than Cordoba and Granada and takes more time to see. Your times for the latter two are generous but fine if you like wandering around and appreciating the atmosphere. Granada has a couple of day-trip possibilities I enjoyed--the town of Priego de Cordoba and the Alpujarras.

Andalucia is typically miserably hot in the summer; it should be fine in October.

Posted by
47 posts

Was just there in February. Glad we went. Worth two nights or even three to get it right. Seville is certainly bigger and offers more. Very nice airport and train to city center. RS does not do it justice, but the world is big.