Madrid and surrounding area

Madrid itself isn't my favorite place - it's nice enough, nothing bad, just things are more interesting elsewhere. The art museums are top notch, though. Worth a day or two for that alone. So two days in Madrid, then on to other towns. Toledo is excellent, as is Segovia. If you are willing to go further, consider Salamanca ( a few hours north) or Sevilla (a few hours south on the high speed train). If you are sticking to these towns, no car is needed.

John,
You don't need a car to visit Madrid and the surrounding towns. We use the subway in Madrid and the train for day trips. In Madrid you would like to visit the Prado, Reina Sofia and the Thyssen museums. The Palacio Real is nice. Go to Plaza Mayor and the nearby Mercado de San Miguel. You can eat a snack or light lunch there or you can eat at Sobrino de Botin Restaurant near Plaza Mayor. Go to Chocolateria San Gines for churros and hot chocolate. This is a few blocks from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor.
Places to day trip include: Toledo, El Escorial, Avila( St. Theresa's town), Segovia, La Granja. If you prefer there are escorted bus tours from Madrid to some of these towns.

Madrid is a larger city, even the central core is a mix of old and modern, many of the big city issues with litter, homelessness, and crowds. It sounds like you prefer smaller quainter areas, so I understand your position.

However, I did enjoy Madrid, was there a week for business and some time on my own. The Art museums and the Naval museums were great, wandering and stopping for some wine or tapas was pleasant, food was a real highlight of the trip. I would at least plan on a few nights there. We also went to Toledo, maybe a bit more along the lines of what you are looking for, Southern Spain also would fit in to your style.

Hi John,
I go to Spain at least once a year, every year, for anywhere from 2 weeks to a month. I have been there in October the past six years. I think this is the best time of year to be in Spain because the weather is awesome and the crowds have gone back to school and/or work. I ALWAYS spend four or five days in Madrid on one end of the trip or the other. It is a great city to spend time in. As others have mentioned, the Big Three art museums are "Must See" sites, along with Plaza Mayor (for lunch, a drink, or people watching), Puerta del Sol, Plaza Santa Ana (for tapas bars), and the Royal Palace. I always find new and interesting things to do and see on every trip, even if it might comprise a day or two of sitting in cafes in pleasant plazas reading and people watching...
There are various day trips that I would recommend. Among them are the usual suspects - Toledo, Segovia, Avila, and El Escorial. I also like Cuenca (hanging houses), Salamanca (overall ambiance), and even Valencia - for, if nothing else, the best paella in the world! All of these trips are less that two hours from Madrid by train. Get hold of a good guide book (Frommers, Fodors, Rick's, or even the green Michelin guide) and see which of them interest you.

Lots here to ponder.
Madrid...
http://www.planetware.com/tourist-attractions-/madrid-e-mad-mad.htm

Toledo...
http://www.planetware.com/tourist-attractions-/toledo-e-cast-tol.htm

Segovia...
http://www.planetware.com/tourist-attractions-/segovia-e-castl-seg.htm

Avila...
http://www.planetware.com/tourist-attractions-/avila-e-castl-avi.htm

Others out of Madrid...
http://www.planetware.com/spain/madrid-surroundings-e-mad-madsur.htm

Madrid usually loses by comparison with other places in Spain. Madrid is a fine city with lots to keep you interested for several days, but most of us find that going a couple hours "deeper" into the country is more rewarding.

Toledo is a 1/2 hour commuter train ride from Madrid and a possible day trip but it is much better to spend a couple of nights. Cordoba with its ancient Juderia and stunning Mezquita is 2 hours by fast train. From there, it's less than an hour by train to Seville.

Depending on how long you have to spend in Spain, you could also consider Barcelona.

I would say that the Prado Museum is reason enough to visit Madrid. It's, IMO, the best museum in Europe (followed by the D'Orsay in Paris) and, from what I remember, it's free on Sunday evenings. Also, while there, you should take a day trip to Toledo, which has one of the best Cathedrals in Europe. In Madrid, there are a lot of wonderful tapas bars and the food is great. Food in the other Spanish towns is also usually good, but doesn't have the breadth and variety of Madrid. While there, see the Royal Palace and the Plaza Mayor, and go tapas hopping each evening.

For full disclosure I was in grad school in Madrid in the 80s so I am very partial to the city. I have been back several times the last being this past December. I find the city magical -so easy to walk and Madrilenos are extremely friendly. There is so much to do from museums to shopping to just taking in the sites. Venturing out to cities such as Segovia and Toledo also gives a different flavor of Spain. I prefer the Thyssen and the Reina Sofia museums over the Prado and just the thought of tapa hopping around the plaza santa ana is making me want to book my next trip.

I spent a month last summer in Spain, based out of Barcelona, not Madrid. I did do a short 3-day trip to Madrid while being based in Barcelona, just because I thought it would be a shame to spend a month in Spain and not see its capital. I have to agree with your initial reaction and say that I was not AS impressed with Madrid as Barcelona. But I also love the sea and anything having to do with the water, so its location was much more enjoyable to me. I'm sure other people with disagree with me, but I thought Barcelona had much more to offer, and the surrounding region in Catalonia has so much to see. If you really wanted to see what Madrid has to offer, you could do a few days there at the beginning or end of your Spain trip and easily get to Barcelona by train or plane.

In addition to the towns already mentioned, check out Aranjuez. We liked it a lot.