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Logrono vs. small Rioja wine towns for restaurants, Uber, llodging with AC, etc.

For part of a 2-3 week trip we'd like to visit Rioja wine region for 4-6 days as it's one of the few corners of Spain we've never explored. We're debating whether to stay in a much larger town like Logrono as a home base, or try for a much smaller, scenic rural town like Haro, La Guardia, or Briones that posters mention. At least one post warned that these tiny towns often are dying out-- meaning they'd still be lovely to visit on a daytrip, but many of their local grocery store, restaurants/cafes, and even lodgings may have closed or radically reduced what days they are open--- especially since the pandemic. We strongly prefer eating out on vacation vs. cooking at our lodging/AirBnB, and really appreciate excellent food (think Michelin star, Bib or similar quality without the official rating).

So my question is that if we try to stay in a smaller town for the relaxed environment and easy driving, will we have difficulty finding a variety of good restaurants open, or lodging with AC? (must be early June trip per son's school). Also, any chance the small towns would have Lyft or Uber to avoid driving back from winery tastings, or as I imagine is that only realistic in a larger town like Logrono?

Also, if you have tips on a rural guest house that serves optional dinner with good food, please share as I find many lovely places but none that serve meals other than breakfast.

Posted by
590 posts

Sounds like from what you wrote, you would be best off in Logroño.

Don't know about Lyft or Uber, but Alavabus for example, would allow in the morning. Spend the day there, and visit a winery or two, plus have lunch and still be back in the evening for dinner in Logroño.
The same is possible with Haro, you can take a bus in the morning and return in the evening.

As for Michelin stars, there are now three in Logroño, plus the always popular Calle del Laurel

You say early June. The 9th of June is the day of La Rioja, and it is a bank holiday in the community. The 11 is San Bernabe, the patron of Logroño. Next year there will probably be fiestas the 7 through the 11 in Logroño.

Posted by
7157 posts

I agree with Dave..

Briones, Laguardia, and Haro are not towns that are dying out like some others, but to me, each can be seen in less than a day. Logroño is much larger with more options for lodging, restaurants, and transportation. Last year we spent a couple nights at the Parador in Olite. There’s a very nice Royal Palace there as well as a couple wineries right in town (Bodega Cosecheros de Olite and Bodegas Vega del Castillo). You can do a couple tastings and walk to your hotel.

Posted by
9 posts

Thank you so much for these posts, and for replies to others' questions about Rioja region. Those posts have given many ideas for daytrips. We never would have known about the regional/city fiesta dates so that's especially helpful! I also now see a Logrono-Haro train option once a day (appx. 13:30-17:00 in Haro) in addition to the bus, so that or the bus is a great option if visiting a winery. We loved a stay in Braga, Portugal-- big enough for a variety of restaurants but small enough to walk everywhere, and Logrono seems a similar size.

Posted by
743 posts

I would not worry much about AC in June, really. Not needed, as in most of northern Spain, maybe in summer in Rioja area, but not in early June. Laguardia (not La Guardia) offers good restaurants like Amelibia and Héctor Oribe in nearby Páganos, close to Michelin quality. Haro has also Nublo (Michelin) and Alboroque, great places for a wonderful meal. I would stay in Haro or Laguardia, Logroño may be a bit too big. No big changes after the pandemic, life goes on as usual (I´m in Rioja at least twice every month), three different Rioja wine regions: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental (Laguardia and Labastida in Basque Rioja Alavesa as main towns, Haro in Rioja Alta). Briones will also be lively, but much more on a weekend.

Posted by
590 posts

About early June weather, there is a saying

Hasta el cuarenta de mayo no te quites el sayo

Which can be translated as "until May 40 do not take off the tunic."

While things are changing overall, I've never had an hot San Bernabe (June 11, May 41), but I have have rather cold ones. And some rainy ones.

Abut the Rioja wine regions: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental, they are part of the DOC.