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Itinerary help 12 nights Granada to Barcelona with Christmas in Madrid

My husband and I will be traveling with daughters, age 20 and 25, after the youngest one finishes her study abroad semester in Granada -- flying into Granada and departing from Barcelona. While we enjoy art, museums and architecture, we especially like roaming streets where locals are and absorbing the culture. This will be our first Christmas away from home and from what I've read, Madrid would be the most festive for Christmas. I really wanted to squeeze in Rondo and/or Arcos because I prefer smaller, quaint locations over big cities but that seems impossible with our limited time. What do you think? The only thing that is NOT flexible is our arrival into Granada on Wednesday, Dec. 18 and our Barcelona departure on Monday, Dec. 30. Thank you in advance for your help with this initial planning stage.

  1. 2 nights, Granada
  2. 2 nights, Seville
  3. 1 night, Cordoba (should we delete this and add an extra night elsewhere?)
  4. 3 nights, Madrid
  5. 3 nights, Barcelona
Posted by
293 posts

This may push your Granada stay a little longer than planned, but I've read that Granada has a really amazing city-wide winter solstice celebration. I intended to see it year before last, but ended up in Malaga instead, but it might be worth looking into.

Cordoba is an easy day trip (one hour by train) from Seville, so you may prefer to just do it that way and spare yourself an extra day of hotel-shifting. But, since it's all so close and Seville, Cordoba, and Madrid are on the same rail line, any way you choose to do it is pretty straightforward.

I spent Christmas 2018 solo in Madrid. The previous year, I was in Malaga and Seville in the run up to Christmas. I think they're all pretty festive and fun, but certainly Madrid doesn't shut down QUITE as much on Christmas day as the other cities so. However, as you'll be with your family, it may not matter as much to have a lot of things open (depending on your Christmas meal plans). I'd decide to spend the holiday in whichever city sounds the most appealing across the board.

This seems to be an unpopular opinion, but I found Ronda kind of boring. Very beautiful and dramatic with the gorge, but all in all, kind of meh. Perhaps others on the board can comment on how likely it it to have much going on right at Christmas; between the holiday and the season, I have to wonder how lively it would be.

I was similarly underwhelmed by Arcos. It's not that I didn't like it, but I just really didn't see the massive appeal. Of course, everybody is different, but I think if you consult others on this forum, you may find some other good, smaller city/big town suggestions. I also was unimpressed by the restaurants in Arcos (and while I like good food, I'm not a restaurant snob. I'm totally happy with a hole-in-the-wall place with great food). There wasn't much variety, partly, I am sure, due to the lingering economic hard times of the city. Of course, I was there in 2016, so many things have changed, but I'd do some more homework. How are you planning on getting from Andalusia to Madrid? If you're renting a car, especially, you'll have lots of options for less well-known gem-like towns where you can recharge before hitting the cities.

One last thing. I love Madrid and think it doesn't get as much love as it deserves, and, as I said above, I spent Christmas 2018 there. But, unless you're adamant about going (which is understandable, especially for art lovers, you might skip it and just make this trip about the south and a slow meander to Barcelona. You'll be cramming a lot into those days in Seville, Granada, etc., and may want a rest.

Caroline

Posted by
27198 posts

I think your schedule seriously shortchanges both Barcelona and Seville, and I'd prefer to have an extra night in Granada and Cordoba as well. The days will be very short, which will reduce the amount of outdoor sightseeing you can accomplish. I certainly wouldn't try to add any more stops; in fact, I'd drop one. My choice would be Madrid since it might be rather cold there (which I hate). And I'm one who just doesn't find it as aesthetically interesting as your other stops.

I know nothing about holiday celebrations in Spain, however.

Posted by
8163 posts

We just returned from Madrid, Granada and Barcelona. We took the 4 1/2 hour us to Granada and then flew 1 hour over to Barcelona. We really enjoyed all three cities. We were surprised to find out that Granada is a city with fine ski resorts on the outskirts. We got an apartment in both Granada and Barcelona and got up close to the locals.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you all taking time to reply and share your opinions. I feel better about missing Ronda and Arcos, plus, I know I enjoy more staying in one place for a bit so that would have been too much. I think we will add a night in Granada. So, I'll start looking for apartments with this new itinerary:

  1. 3 nights, Granada, Dec. 18-21
    1. 3 nights, Seville, Dec. 21-24 (with maybe daytrip to Cordoba)
    2. 2 nights, Madrid, Dec. 24-26
    3. 4 nights Barcelona, Dec. 26-30 If you have time, please let me know what you think about this.
Posted by
27198 posts

Check closing dates of the sights most important to you. Holy Week gave me fits, and I'm not sure the Christmas period will be much better. Museums that are closed on Mondays will probably be closed Dec 23, possibly have short hours on December 24, and be closed on December 25. I don't know whether anything unusual will happen on December 26. I fear you may not have a lot of indoor sightseeing options during your stay in Madrid, which for me would be especially problematic because of the risk of chilly weather and the fact that wandering the streets in Madrid is just not (for me) as interesting as doing the same thing in the other cities.

Unfortunately, based on my Holy Week experience, I can give you no assurance that early closing days will be mentioned on the appropriate websites. In some cases even the tourist office didn't have the facts; that was a particular problem in Granada.

Barcelona is less risky over the holidays because it has a lot of privately-run, massively money-making attractions that will probably be open every day except Christmas. I can't promise they'll stick to their regular hours, though.

There will probably be extra church services, too, which will limit access to some sights you might plan to visit.

Posted by
3910 posts

FYI most restaurants will be closed on Christmas Eve in Spain. Christmas Eve is a very familiar time for us, spent in one's house with the family. Even in big cities, it is almost impossible to find Spanish restaurants open on Christmas Eve. Try different cuisines, for example a Chinese restaurant or a Turkish restaurant. You will have a higher probability of finding those kinds of restaurants open on the 24th. Also definitely reserve a table in advance for Christmas Eve, it may be difficult to do so the day of, maybe your hotel can help out?

Also, be sure not to miss our Christmas markets in Spain! Our Christmas market tradition is a little know part of our culture. Since we also celebrate the three Kings day (Jan 6), you will find most of our Christmas Markets are still up after Dec. 20. For example, in Barcelona the Saint Lucia Market is still up until Dec 23. This is our oldest Christmas Market in Barcelona, dating to the 1700s. You will find most of our major towns and cities have Christmas markets too, in Madrid for example they last until Dec 31, Granada until Jan 6.

Here are some English languages article about some of our Christmas Markets in Spain:

https://www.spain.info/en_US/reportajes-portales/estados_unidos/magical-spain-christmas-markets.html

https://theculturetrip.com/europe/spain/articles/12-magical-christmas-markets-to-visit-in-spain/