Itinerary for Spain in October

Lots of folks like to use the Deutsche Bahn web site to check European train schedules, though when the time comes to buy tickets, you'd need to go elsewhere.

I think two nights is great for Toledo. There are a lot of sights to see in that city, and the historic district is large and atmospheric. Madrid is a museum-rich city where you could also spend a lot of time and you have less than 2 full days there (discounting time for the Segovia trip), so you'll have to make a decision. If you're a big art fan, you might lean toward Madrid; if you prefer smaller, much more historic cities, you might lean toward Toledo. The path to the Toledo cathedral is well-worn and full of tourists. It's a bit like Venice: If you get off the beaten path--easy to do if you stay overnight--you'll have a very different experience.

The fastest way to get from Toledo to Sevilla is by train, and it involves returning to Madrid, because Toledo is a dead-end on the railroad line. (If you weren't arriving in Spain in the evening, I would have recommended going straight to Toledo at the beginning of the trip, then to Madrid, Sevilla, etc.) There are frequent train routings between Toledo and Sevilla, some involving an additional change in Cordoba.

Barcelona is chock-full of sights (for some of which you'll want to buy tickets ahead of time to avoid long lines), and I definitely don't think 3-1/2 days is too long there, especially if you're interested in the modernista sights. I recommend not committing to a day-trip until you see how much time you want in Barcelona itself. If you're ready for a change before your Barcelona time is up, there are a number of easy day-trips. I loved Girona and liked Sitges. I didn't go to Montserrat despite spending 10-1/2 days in Barcelona; too much to do in the big city to take more than my one day-trip to Sitges.

Rick has good coverage of your destinations in his "Spain" guidebook. I recommend that you get a copy. For one thing, you want to be well-informed about the days key sights are closed so you don't miss your chance to see things of special interest to you.

Spanish meal hours (both lunch and dinner) tend to be extremely late, though a bit less so in Barcelona. It won't necessarily be easy to find a place to have a good meal earlier than 2 PM for lunch and 10 PM for dinner. Don't expect to do much sightseeing after dinner.

Do use the Bahn website to find train schedules; I found that for trains involving connections (like your trip from Toledo to Seville), the Renfe site did not show all the options. I ended up buying two separate tickets.

If you want discount tickets for trains, you will buy them in advance; the discounts are substantial, so it's worth it. If you can get the Renfe site to work, that will have the best prices, but it's very finicky. You will need this tutorial, and be sure to use PayPal rather than wasting time with trying your credit card: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g187514-c80518/Madrid:Spain:Buying.Renfe.Tickets.Online.html

If you can't get Renfe's site to work, the tutorial suggests some alternatives that are cheaper than Rail Europe. In addition to these, Captain Train now books Renfe tickets; I haven't used them, but those who have are pleased, and apparently their prices are the same as Renfe (some of the other sites are higher). https://www.captaintrain.com/en

Have you already booked your flight from Seville to Barcelona? If not, investigate taking the train for this too. There are some direct runs (no changes) that will, door to door, be about as fast as flying, and easier since you don't have to get to and from the airports and deal with airport hassles. Fast Spanish trains (called AVE) do have a security screening, but it's much faster and easier than an airport screening.

As for things to do, the main sight in Madrid for me, by far, is the Prado. You want to do it on your last day in town, so you're as un-jetlagged as possible.

Thanks for the info. I wish we could have went to Toledo first as well. I am hoping the 1/2 back to Madrid and then onto Seville won't be to big of a deal?
We seriously considered taking the train from Seville to Barcelona but I just seems like so much longer even getting to the airport early and transportation to and from. It is 1.5 hour flight and 5.5 hour train ride. Having said that I haven't booked flights yet but will be soon.
I will leave Barcelona without a day trip planned. We aren't big art people so I think the time in Madrid will be sufficient.

I don't know; a 90-minute flight turns into 5 hours or so by the time you deal with the airports. However, I'm not going to claim that it's a wonderful, scenic train ride. I think the area on both sides of Madrid is quite unexciting.

No, going from Toledo to Madrid to Seville is not a big deal at all. I went from Toledo to Madrid to Barcelona, and it was easy.

The only potential issue is that there are two levels in Atocha. Trains to Toledo use the lower-level; trains to Barcelona use the upper level; I don't know what the trains to Seville use.

If you have to switch levels like I did, you don't have to leave the secured area. Instead, ask for the elevator that connects the two levels' waiting rooms behind security (it's outside, near the high number tracks).

Ok thanks for the advice. I'm wondering if I should reconsider flying from Seville to Barcelona and take the train instead. The only issue I see is I can only find one Ave train going at 2:50 pm so we don't arrive until after 8:00 pm. Should there be more trains and I am missing something?

I'm seeing roughly hourly trips for next Monday (I don't know your actual travel date). Try the Deutsche Bahn website and use Sevilla Santa Justa as your departure point. You'll be arriving at Barcelona Sants.

I think the Renfe web site sometimes doesn't show all the trips that involve connections. Some people have reported having to buy two separate tickets in that situation.

You will be changing trains in Madrid. They may well have the incoming and outbound trains on side-by-side tracks, but Atocha is a large station, so I would try to avoid a trip with a 10-minute connection in Madrid if I had another, equally convenient, option.

Our last trip to Spain we booked 5 days in Barcelona and still didn't see everything on our list. Here's my top ten:

*Palace of Catalan Music-take the tour but will need a ticket ahead of time. One of a kind.

*Sagrada Familia-one of a kind Cathedral & be sure to check Rick's Barcelona book for quickest avenue to beat the crowds since it will be quite crowded in the summer.

*Book a Tapas tour before you go. They can be found online. Also do this soon after arriving as it will help you w/ possible food options for later. We went at night & had a great time at a cheese shop w/ wine; at Cala del Vermut, where the tapas were great & they make their own vermouth..."sweet wine"; also stopped a few minutes for a Sardana near the government building in a plaza before stopping at Belmoute for more tapas; & finished w/ at Bodega La Palma for dessert & what else, wine or coffee if you like.

*Book an "Eat with Marta" private (small group, about 8-10) paella cooking class overlooking Plaza Tetuan. You can see the bullet & Sagrada from her balcony. Also good to visit with interesting people from all over the world.

*Took a free walking tour by Runner Bean of the Gothic quarter that you mentioned. You tip what you want. We had a good guide & tipped well. They had a website for more information. We didn't need to book early (February) but not sure about the summer.

*Picasso Museum as you mentioned is a look at his early works as well as the later years.

*Check the schedule for the Barca Soccer Team to see if they have a game while you are there. We got lucky & our BnB helped us book tickets on the day before the game. We are not big in soccer but it was great to see this spectacle. They love their Futbol!!

*Park Güell for a beautiful view of the city & sea. The park is amazing in its own right.

You need to walk Las Ramblas (Rick says **) We enjoyed seeing the street performers & people watch. You will run upon it many times on your stay, just keep you money belt on & hands in your pockets. Also near Plaza-Plaça de Catalunya, wander down some of the sides streets where all the locals are walking. You can stay close to parallel to Ramblas.

*A couple of blocks from the Picasso Museum is the Church of Santa Maria Del Mar. It is worth a stop to see where Gaudi got his idea for the huge columns in the Sagrada Familia. You can also see the "Catalan Alamo" around the corner.

*Casa Batilo is worth it for the roof top experience & photo opts. (I think that is more than ten!)

I mentioned a few tours by name but there are many more to choose from online. These are just the ones we used.

**If a small framed, older man in a suit approaches you on the street, tell him you don't need a leather jacket. We have been to Barcelona twice before & he has approached us both times. This last time I pretended not to speak english, "no spek anglay." He didn't buy it. We must look like good targets.
Have a great trip!

Hi, Shelly,

Your itinerary sounds great. I did a similar trip starting in Madrid (Madrid, Toledo, Seville, Ronda, Nerja, Grenada, Madrid).

A couple of thoughts. We spent two nights in Toledo, and the town is dead quiet at night. Even restaurants were closing at 9 p.m. In Spain!!! Most people see Toledo only on a daytrip from Madrid. So I applaud you for giving it more attention. But I think two nights is too many compared to your other options. Granted, it's a pain to pack and unpack, which is why we don't like to stay anywhere fewer than two nights. But I would suggest one night in Toledo. And spending your extra night in either Madrid or Seville. Or, alternatively, visiting Toledo on a day trip and tacking on two nights in Grenada.

In Madrid, this is definitely dependent on where your interests lie, but the Prado Museum is my all-time favorite Museum (beating out the Uffizi and the D'Orsay). I think it has to qualify as one of the five best art museums in the world.

In Barcelona, three days is not too long. You absolutely want to explore the Gothic Quarter and El Born, right next door. You can't miss La Sagrada Familia and Park Guell and the Guadi houses on that main street whose name escapes me right now (those three can all be done on the same day). Montjuic is also interesting for great views and the Catalan Art Museum. Also, check out what is playing at the Palau de Musica (probably spelling that wrong). They charge almost 20 euros just to tour the building, but you can see a memorable concert there for not too much more than that. Don't even bother with the Ramblas. Seriously. Trust me.

Not sure if this is your first trip to Spain or not, but for food, if you are adventurous, I wouldn't even bother at a traditional restaurant. It is much more fun and affordable simply to eat at tapas. Love the variety. Don't miss the Iberico ham.

This advice is all very helpful. I love the ideas for Barcelona and I have to admit I'm second guessing Toledo for two nights. I wonder if a day trip would be enough. Everything shutting down at 9:00 pm doesn't sound like much fun. One night would be ok but with the train having to go back to Madrid prior to getting to Seville may not be worth it. I am considering adding two more nights to Madrid and just day tripping to Toledo. I just can't decide what is best.
Our hotel in Seville is booked otherwise I would add one night to each. Granada sounds good but I had to take something off and it just seemed like that was the logical one to remove based on a bit more difficulty getting there.

Renfe doesn't manage connecting train routes very well. It's easy enough to find trains and book tickets Madrid-Sevilla separately, just take into account the Toledo-Madrid train schedule and allow sufficient transfer time. The Toledo trains are at the opposite end of Atocha station from the high-speed trains. You will go through a security check before boarding the train in Toledo and again at Atocha for the Sevilla train. To make it a bit easier, I left my luggage in a locker at Atocha (near the high-speed trains, behind the atrium) and took a small overnight bag to Toledo. I found that (in February), the area around the cathedral was very quiet in the evening - restaurants were open, but there were only a handful of diners. Nearer the center (a 10 minute walk), shops were open and there were lots of people out and about. Toledo became my 2nd-favorite city in Spain.

Consider taking an early train from Sevilla to Cordoba. You can store your luggage for the day in the bus station across the street from the train station. Then take a late afternoon train (4.41 or 4.56 p.m.) to Barcelona - 4.5 hour trip. Consider that a day trip to Cordoba means longish trip to/from the Sevilla train on public transportation (or taxis). A late morning flight will use up a lot of sightseeing time; relaxing on the train from Cordoba after an intensive day of sightseeing isn't such a bad idea. You can even get food to go and a bottle of wine in Cordoba and have a picnic dinner on the train.

I agree with Chani on Toledo (though I was there in May): I wouldn't call it dead in the evening, just peaceful once the day-trippers go home. It is very much worth 2 nights if you're interested in the indoor sights. If you just want to wander around outside, one night would be OK if you have pretty much a full day there.