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Itinerary and getting around

After much talk my family and I have finally pulled the trigger and bought our plane tickets to vacation in Spain. We wanted to go last year, but it didn't work out for us, so it is exciting to finally really be going. It is our first trip and there is much to figure out. We are a family of 5 that include my husband, and our three kids ages 14, 12, 10. Many of our vacations center around the outdoors and hiking. We are going to fly into Madrid March 23 and fly out of Madrid April 5th. After a lot of back and forth we decided on the following itinerary:

Fly into Madrid and take the train to Toledo.
Toldeo (2 nights)
Granada (3 nights)
Cordoba (3 nights)
Seville (4 nights)
My question is not so much on itinerary but transportation. We will be there during Holy Week which is exciting and a bit intimidating. Our original plan was to take the train to Granada and maybe rent a car when we leave for Cordoba or just rent a car when we get to Seville if we want to see some of the smaller towns. With it being Holy Week I am not sure what will be the best way to get around. In particular we are traveling from Granada to Cordoba on Holy Thursday. I understand it to be really crowded which is fine but I am not sure how to navigate. I imagine it to be crowds like we have here in Louisiana during Mardi Gras but I have no idea. Any advice on traveling around during the week before Easter? Also, anyone with some suggestions on a few hikes that are close (2-6 miles round trip)? Also, any suggestions on things that kids must see or do besides the usual big sites? Thanks is advance.

Posted by
4473 posts

Are you staying in Madrid at the end?
Andalucia and outdoors is tough because the cities are so well linked by bus and train, and having a car in any of them is a hindrance as you must find parking-friendly accommodations. The ideal option is to pick up a car as you leave one of these towns, stay in a smaller town a few nights, and then drop the car when you get to another city. I solved this conundrum by skipping Granada on one trip (I hope to get back one day, yet I have not yet so that is not necessarily what I am recommending) and skipping Toledo (having to round trip to Madrid on the train just bugs me).
Ronda is an ideal place because you can get there and away by bus/train, and there is at least one hike i know of that you can do by bus/train as well. In short, I think something would have to be swapped out in order to get some outdoors time in. I plan outdoors focused trips most of the time, but for Andalucia we mostly enjoyed the cities.
I don't know how holy week affects transport, but it definitely affect accommodations, so start on that early. Those who know holy week will will chime in, good luck!

Posted by
356 posts

For a hiking suggestion, consider Las Alpujaras, a region of small mountain villages and a national park with many hiking trails near Granada. You can also hike between some villages. It is about a 90 minute car drive or 2 hour bus ride from Granada. It could be done as a day trip but spending at least one night would be nice. The area is also known for some of the best Iberian ham and pure spring water. I stayed a couple nights in the town of Capileira but there are many other choices.

Cordoba is fascinating but in my opinion you don't need 3 nights there.
As a disclaimer, I must note that I have no clue about how Holy Week will affect your plans but that is a key question.

Posted by
6 posts

We are only staying in Madrid 1 night and catching our plane home the following day. Outdoors hiking is not a must but would be nice. We love walking around cities too, eating food, and just taking in the sites. I do have our accommodations booked already. If we traveled by train, which is a good possibility, would it be difficult to travel from the train station to our lodging with all the processions going on?

Posted by
4473 posts

We are only staying in Madrid 1 night and catching our plane home the
following day. Outdoors hiking is not a must but would be nice. We
love walking around cities too, eating food, and just taking in the
sites. I do have our accommodations booked already. If we traveled by
train, which is a good possibility, would it be difficult to travel
from the train station to our lodging with all the processions going
on?

Okay, good--Madrid airport is huge and you don't want to be rushing there on your last day.
Also good that everything is booked. If you can get that Alpujarras day trip in, perfect--with two full days in Granada, it could work. An option for a day trip from Sevilla might be Donana National park, where you have to do guided tours anyway (jeeps through wetlands, great birding). Just for a day out of the city, maybe from Toledo you could go see the windmills at Consuegra. And from Cordoba, Almodóvar castle sounds cool. These are all things I just have on my list for the next time I get there.
If none of those work out, then for your next trip, you might look at Extremadura, where we did some fantastic hiking!

As for getting to hotels, I am sure there must be some maps of the processions somewhere online. But you'll get knowledgeable replies eventually.

Posted by
691 posts

I agree do try to make it to the Alpajurras for a dayhike from Granada.
Look up caminito del Rey near Antequerra.
Antequerra also has a nice national park.
I would not stay 3 days in Cordoba, seems to long to me. Ronda was interesting enough and lots of hiking option near.
No car in Seville. So either start or end there then train to Madrid.
I think i would pick up a car in Toledo, than Granada, than Antequerra or Ronda and than Seville.and drop the car. You could go to Cordoba on a daytrip from Seville.
Have fun!

Posted by
6619 posts

To expand on valadelphia’s suggestions, if day tripping to Consuegra from Toledo, in addition to the windmills there is a castle there. Both the castle and windmills are by each other. The town began restoring the castle about 1980 and did a good job. The restoration was completed sometime after 2014. Fifteen minutes further along the same road are the windmills at Campo de Criptana. They are the ones mentioned in Cervantes’ Don Quixote.

From Córdoba, near Almodovar castle is archaeological site Medina Azahara. Both could be incorporated in the same day trip.

Posted by
4473 posts

Jaime's suggestions make me think picking up a car as you leave Toledo and then dropping it in Cordoba might make a good plan. But you'll have to check with hotels for parking arrangements in Granada and Cordoba.
Jaime, any experience during holy week?

Posted by
6619 posts

@valadelphia - no experience with Holy Week since 1980, but I’m sure somebody has current information and experience.

Posted by
421 posts

Pack light. If you can’t carry it, don’t take it.
Our trips are typically 23 days and 5 cities.

Posted by
15607 posts

I will only address your question about Holy Week - Semana Santa, since I was in Andalucia several years ago especially to experience it.

I don't know much about Mardi Gras where you are. The main thing in Andalucia is the processions, which wend through the streets from various churches and brotherhoods to the cathedral and back. Processions are very slow and very long, with usually a float at the beginning with Jesus and at the end with Mary, lots of penitents, marching bands playing solemn music, and hoards of people lining the way. A typical one takes at least 3-4 hours. Streets around the cathedral are closed off from the day before Palm Sunday until after Easter. Other streets are closed off from about an hour before the procession is due to arrive until some time after it has passed. The first procession of the week is usually early afternoon on Palm Sunday. After that, expect processions every afternoon and evening until as late as 2-3 am. This was my experience in Sevilla and Malaga. I believe Granada is similar. I believe Cordoba is an outlier because the processions do not have music. I left Sevilla for Cordoba on Saturday afternoon. Cordoba was quiet when I got there. On Easter Sunday I skipped the procession and went sightseeing instead. There weren't any crowds except at restaurants - Easter Sunday in Andalucia is one of their biggest days in the year. Thursday daytime to evening is actually pretty quiet. The Madruga processions start around midnight and go till dawn.

What does that all mean for you? First, book hotels as soon as you can but watch out for cancellation fees. For Semana Santa, many hotels have minimum stay requirements and have stiff cancellation fees. Next, forget a car. In low season I would not want to drive in any of your cities and parking is both hard to find and expensive. Trains are the fastest way to travel and should probably be booked well in advance for lower fares and because they can and do sell out. Also, getting to your hotel from the train station (and back again) with luggage can be a problem. If you stay within walking distance of the cathedral, you may have to walk through winding streets and crowds with your luggage to get there. Taxi drivers may have to drop you off some way from your hotel and maybe not as close as possible. That happened to me in Seville - they had just closed off the street to my hotel minutes before my taxi arrived and he left me off at some distance. Luckily I knew the way, having stayed there before (and he could have let me off much closer but didn't realize he was taking me farther away). On the plus side, there's not much going on until mid-afternoon so you have plenty of time for sightseeing and crowds similar to other high season times of year. There is limited access to the cathedrals, other than that, tourist sights are open as usual. There are also opportunities to get up close to the floats at the various churches and brotherhoods in each city. Once there, aside from getting around with your luggage, your biggest problem might just be getting around when you meet up with a procession - you can almost always here them from a couple streets away by the music.

I found this website to be extremely helpful. Tons of information and some good tips. Consider it all before finalizing your itinerary. You may very well want to change things around.

Posted by
4473 posts

Great info from Chani.
Simonsez, you could also inquire with each of your hotels, who might offer helpful tips. Let us know what you decide to do--it's a common conundrum!

Posted by
27236 posts

I found during Semana Santa 2019 that you need to add some extra sightseeing time in cities where Semana Santa is a big deal, because:

  • Some sights close at odd times when a procession is due to pass by. This means you may need to make two trips to the same part of town to deal with the exceptional operating hours. You may be able to get a list of Semana Santa hours for all the local sights from the city's tourist office; that will help you avoid wasted trips to sights that are closed..

  • It may take substantially longer than usual to get from Sight A to Sight B as you detour around a procession.

  • You'll want to spend some time watching processions.