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Is Malaga and the Costa del Sol Really That Bad?

I'm planning a trip to Spain - probably late January for a month.

One purpose is to scout 'relocation locations' and the other is to see someplace new -

Reading Ricks description of the Costa del Sol and Malaga in particular in the 2016 Spain book: mostly expats (and mostly British) who want (and have) no contact with Spanish/local culture, Mediterranean polluted to the point of being un-swimmable (hotels have pools), English newspapers, radio/TV and food, endless timeshares (sounds like Mexico) and terrible traffic? Yikes!!

Was on my trip list, but - - -

Has anyone been there recently? How is it?

Thanks

Buon Natale!

Posted by
3643 posts

You needn't worry about polluted beaches on the Costa del Sol. The Mediterranean is way too cold for swimming in January. Also, since it is primarily a resort area, I expect that it won't be especially attractive in winter.

Posted by
93 posts

I think the issue is that the Costa Del Sol and Gibraltar tends to be one of those places where northern Europeans (especially Brit's ) tend to flock in retirement... far away from the cold and grey with year round sunshine. And like anything that the masses are attracted it tends to get a bit diluted and the original cultural flavor can be lost. ... In my mind I equate it with those from the US north East and Great lakes flocking to Florida in retirement.. some love it.. others hate it. (Not trying to dis' Florida just drawing a rough comparison),

It's been about 10 years since I've been there, I found nothing awful in the Costa Del Sol , just nothing that captured my imagination like the rest of Andalusia... I don't hate it.. just feel no need to ever visit there gain, and probably wouldn't waste my time on it the first time with what I know now. Now compare to places not far north where I would love to visit regularly. eg. Seville, and hill towns such as Arcos Fronteria which are rich in culture.. Even Ronda which I felt was a bit touristy, was lovely and inviting. Even if you've seen these places I'd much rather spend my time for a second trip.

So nothing bad.. just meh.... in my opinion.

Posted by
2766 posts

Malaga and its environs includes a few good museums and ruins and cultural centers and dining and fun-in-the-sun that are worth doing, but it's true that you have to wade through a fair amount of the British equivalent of 'Ugly American' tourists and tourism infrastructure to find it. Think of the Python sketch about drinking Watney's Red Barrel at every stop on a package tour.

Wading through is worth it to me for the Picasso museum in particular and a few other items as well.

Posted by
15788 posts

On my first trip to Spain, about 4 years ago, I met several British expats and got a sense from them that there are lots of them, to the point where there are shops that sell lots of British imports and even a couple places where you can get a good afternoon tea with real clotted cream. They retired to Spain because it's a lot warmer than the UK and real estate is a lot cheaper and because there are lots of inexpensive flights to the UK so they can visit friends and family - espcially kids and grandkids often. They said that more Brits were retiring to Portugal since the real estate prices had risen in Spain.

There are a lot more Spaniards than retired expats in the area and it's up to you who you spend your time with. Malaga is a fairly large city with a pretty center. A visit in January, however, is not going to give you a true picture of what it will be like to live there for most of the year when tourists and locals flock to the beach. If you're looking for a coastal location, Costa de la Luz on the Atlantic may be a better option. Unless you are fluent in Spanish, living in an area that has lots of English media available is probably a benefit.

As for the Med, I live at the eastern end of it. Due to the prevailing currents, the crap ends up at our end. The only problems with the beaches are occasional rip tides and an infestation or two of jellies every year.

Posted by
45 posts

I was in Spain in 2012 in that area, and we loved it! We didn't stay in Malaga, though. We based ourselves in Nerja, which is a great spot that still has some charm. We swam in the local beach around there, and it was fine. There are a lot of English expats, but there are plenty of locals as well. We used our Nerja base to explore other parts of Andalusia, so it was convenien as well.

Posted by
513 posts

I spent three nights there in October 2016 and enjoyed it thoroughly. There are actually two Malagas: a modern thriving city of almost 600,000 people (only a very small fraction of whom are British) and a beautiful "Old Town" bristling with galleries, museums, a lovely cathedral, and one of the most beautiful promenades along the Med that I have experienced. I visited the Picasso, Pompidou, Carmen Thyssen, and Contemporary Arts Center, and found them all exceptional. I was at the cathedral on a Sunday to enjoy all the pomp surrounding the canonization of a local - wow! I made a very pleasant daytrip to Marbella by bus (45 minutes and around 6 euros each way). There is also, of course, the Alcazaba area with a castle, a Roman theater, and an Interpretation Center. In short, Malaga to me ia another example of a wonderful destination that RS fails to give its due.

Posted by
723 posts

I have been to Málaga twice as a tourist destination and liked it very much. Lots of sites to see and beautiful panoramic views from the Alcazaba. A great town to walk and explore. We stayed in the Old Town section. On one of my trips we took a local bus to the very small white hill town of Canillas de Albaida (population 800) and stayed overnight at a lovely inn called Posada la Plaza. I think there are a fair number of expats living in those small pretty hill towns north of Nerja. If I were to live in Spain, I personally, would prefer a small town to a big city location. Are you specifically looking for beach areas? Some people find comfort in living in areas where there are lots of other expats and where they need to be less self reliant. If you are more independent minded take a look at some of the beautiful towns in other provinces and areas. I would think the possibilities are endless. Find an area that meets your general criteria and then explore what it has to offer.

Posted by
10627 posts

I second what Jack wrote. Had a tour in November by a local architect who showed us the Spanish side not the ex-pat side of the city.

Posted by
1560 posts

I am grateful to Rick for his assessment of Malaga as it serves to control the number of tourist. Unfortunately crusie ships have commenced using Malaga as a port.
Yes, there is no reason for you to visit Malaga.
Especially since we have chosen Malaga as our base to the point where I store my car there.
Go away!
;)