How "sketchy" is the Albayzin really?

Honestly, I don't find it sketchy at all. I'm aware of the reports, but I just don't feel unsafe there. I think Rick's advice is overblown, and general street smarts will suffice. It definitely doesn't feel like anywhere else in Europe I've been, but that doesn't mean unsafe. I have stayed there and will do so again, with my kids, no question.

People are out and about until pretty late. I have never been out at 3AM, but anytime from daytime until after a late dinner (in Spain, this means after midnight!) it seems fine to me. There are plenty of narrow passageways that can be unnerving because they are dark and twisting, but you can avoid those.

As far as lower vs. upper, I don't think it matters too much. If you are concerned, you may want to avoid the distant, less crowded areas. I feel less safe on deserted streets where there are no witnesses. People out and about = good. San Nicholas viewpoint is very popular, there will be people around all the time. Also, anything near the minibus route. That thing is super annoying when you are walking, but brings a steady stream of people.

I will say that up past the Albayzin, into the Sacramonte I do feel a little uncomfortable.

Mira, thank you for your informative reply. This is what we were hoping to hear.

We stayed in the Albayzin neighborhood for three nights earlier this month and never felt unsafe. We walked around quite a bit late at night and most of the people we saw were other middle aged tourists. The Plaza San Nicholas was a fun and lively area and had a great view and lots of restaurants. Another plaza that was fun was San Miguel de Baho.

We also stayed in the Albaizin for three nights in the upper part near the Plaza Nicolas. I never felt unsafe, but we did see people using drugs in a little park that we passed. The smell of urine was quite strong along some of the small streets. (It was also super-hot, so I suspect that contributes to the smell) One afternoon while I was out walking alone, I witnessed a police man yelling at someone rather threateningly. I don't know what happened. Despite these things, I would stay in the area again. I loved the Albaicin, but I think the tough part of staying there is carrying your luggage up and down all the hilly, cobblestone streets. Much of it is pedestrian only, so the taxi drops you off and you carry your stuff the rest of the way.

Similar warnings were in the Lonely Planet guide a few years ago, maybe still are. I have been visiting the Albaicin and Sacromonte for years at all times of the day and never had a problem. I suspect much of this is to do with perception, unlit alleyways, unsightly types perhaps. It is certain that some accommodation owners and staff in the city proper warn against visiting, so they retain your custom, as I have heard this myself. I did advise the Aussies listening this was nonsense.

Having visited there as well my family did not find it to feel unsafe.

I suspect Rick's concern/warnings are based on the fact there are winding streets, alleys and it is not as well lit as the downtown area. When we visit again, I plan to stay in this area of Granada.

I'd rather walk there alone at night than Las Ramblas in Barcelona, or anywhere in downtown Madrid. My wife and I walked across most of it after a Sambra performance (maybe 10pm) and it was quiet. That was in April, but April is high season there.

The "some people" notes often reflect reader feedback. But I'd say that the Spain book's longer description on p. 618 is in line with comments above.