Hi, I will be in Seville the week before Holy Week begins, and then in Cordoba and Granada during the Week. I am interested in seeing the processions, but also wonder if that particular week would make everywhere super crowded? If my priority is seeing the usual tourist attractions and not the Holy Week festivities, would I be better off going at a different time?
Thank you for any comments and suggestions! :)
You should look into this carefully, because it's not just that the crowds will be bigger, it's that the crowds will include the people who staff the 'usual tourist attractions' such that some of them may not be keeping regular hours.
OTOH, the processions during semana santa are amazingly moving IF you get into the spirit of the occasion!
Sevilla attracts a lot of outsiders so their processions are a little glitzy, but you can still find the true spirit if you try.
Hi Dalila, I think that it is great idea to visit Andalucía during Semana Santa. It will make your travel experience so much deeper and rewarding than if you went during a normal week. You will have the opportunity to see a very emotional, living-breathing part of Andalucían and Spanish culture. The majority of Spain's cities, towns and villages, all have their own processions combining music, art, and color; but in Andalucía they are all the more breathtaking.
That being said, during the Semana Santa in Córdoba there will be over 30 grand religious processions, some of these processions are centuries old, and the best-known is called 'El Rescatado', which takes to the streets on Palm Sunday; some of the other good ones are 'El Cristo del Remedio de Ánimas', on Easter Monday; 'Nuestra Señora de la Paz y la Esperanza', on Easter Wednesday; 'Nuestra Señora de las Angustias' or 'El Esparraguero', on Maundy Thursday; and 'La Virgen de los Dolores', on Good Friday.
Here is the official 2018 schedule from the Córdoba city government, however it is only in Spanish. The 2019 schedule is not out yet, but the city government website says to refer to this one in the interim: horarios-itinerarios-procesiones-semana-santa-cordoba-2018
Likewise, in Granada there will be 32 cofradías (brotherhoods) participating, each with their own religious processions. The processions will make their way through the winding Albayzín quarter, with the spectacular Alhambra as the backdrop, a really unique setting. The main procession on Holy Wednesday with be the ‘Cristo de los Gitanos’, a spectacular and moving sight thanks to the huge fires lit in the caves and homes of Sacromonte. On Holy Thursday the procession of the Cristo de Silencio takes place, the silence broken only by the sound of the drums. This is when the Albayzín fills with color and the aroma of incense. Meanwhile, at nightfall on Good Friday the oldest cofradía of all, the Soledad de San Jerónimo, takes to the streets in a procession in which real people represent historical figures from the Bible.
Here is the English version of official day by day schedule of the Granada Semana Santa (this one is also for 2018, but can also be used for 2019 in the interim, according to the website): Holy Week in Granada, day by day
While there may be some slowdown in the cities themselves due to the number of people coming to see these processions, I don’t feel it would interfere too much in the main tourist attractions, although it may take longer to get from point A to point B. Most people will be in Córdoba and Granada for the Holy Week processions and not for the usual tourist attractions. My only concern would be that Easter Monday is a public holiday in Spain, so the large majority of shops and restaurants will be closed. Other than that I think it will be manageable (and highly enjoyable!) Hope this all helps 😊
One thing to keep in mind is that processions may block the most direct path(s) between your hotel and the train or bus station, so you need to be very careful about allowing time when you're ready to leave town. I had issues in two places in Spain during my 2016 trip, and I was dealing with much less major festivities than you'll encounter during Semana Santa.
I'm going to be in Andalucía during that period myself but haven't yet started my research. I will be following this thread with interest.
My experience during Las Fallas in Valencia with public transit was as acraven mentions above -- I had looked at the relevant websites and google maps ahead of time to get organized since I was staying closer to the Sciences Center and needed the bus system every day, and when I actually was out and about, it took me more than my own powers of observation to figure out that the key bus routes had been adjusted for the festivities --
I stood at the normal stop for a half hour or more, and a woman came out of one of the shops and explained to me (my Spanish isn't so fluent) that the routes and stops had been changed for the week -- when I actually got in the city center there were transit officials and temporary info tables that made everything clearer, but coming from farther out there was just a temporary flagpole stuck on the sidewalk one block over from where I had been waiting...