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Help with NW Spain Trip Options

Hi all!

I'm swimming (or more aptly drowning) in all the ideas and options we want to do for a 7 night stay in northern Spain. Some background:

-Four adults in mid-50's, and traveling in July. We are doing a 7 night cruise on the Douro River prior to, and will disembark in Porto. Both couples are fairly active, though not looking for strenuous activities, but good with plenty of walking and a mix of sightseeing and relaxing, so we're not pushing hard each day. Love seeing history, some art and architecture and enjoy food and wine. Our desire to head north was somewhat influenced by trying to avoid the worst of the heat of southern Portugal and other parts of Spain that time of year.

-We are set on 7 nights, as we will head north the morning of cruise disembarkation, and need to be in other cities outside of Spain on the 8th day. So will also need to be in a city with an airport that will connect to FRA and maybe BCN for the other couple.

-In terms of lodging, we will look at smaller hotels, B&B's, paradors, etc, but that will be down the road. One restriction is there is one vegetarian and one celiac traveller, so needing to stay in a town or city that will have more than a few dining options so we have options to accommodate.

Initially, the plan was SDC, then head east to the Picos area and finish up in Bilbao. I was thinking with that plan do 3 nights in one place, 1 in Picos and 3 in Bilbao (we will have a car), or a 3, 2, 2 split of nights. My gut is telling me that is too much to do in 7 nights.

As I've read more about Galicia the coast along Rias Baixas (Pontevedra), and maybe A Coruna would be good. So another option I was thinking is just staying in Galicia and doing 3 nights in one of those two areas (pick up car in Rias Baixas if staying there, or up to SDC to pick up), 2 nights SDC at the end of the trip to fly out of (or 1 night if we want to add a 3rd night elsewhere), and then 2 (or 3) nights....?? Maybe up by A Coruna if the coastal area is different enough? Or Ourense (thermal baths sound kind of cool!)? Or???.....Open to other options.

I did like the idea of the Picos as that would be cool to see as well as some of the cave sites, but I'm slowly letting go of heading east as there will be a fair amount of time in the car eating up our days if we do that. Another trip there and Basque country I'm thinking.

I would love to hear feedback and ideas to help narrow down these options. I've been reading a lot of the threads on here for ideas and thoughts. Once I have something a bit more concrete I can share with the rest of the group (they basically said plan the trip and they'll come along, lol)!

Thanks!

Posted by
8521 posts

With so little time I’d stay in Galicia. There are more than enough places to occupy the time you have. With a vehicle you can see a lot. Santiago de Compostela is worth three nights if you’ve never been there. A few other places we enjoyed are Muxia, Baiona, Betanzos, and Lugo. Places others have mentioned are Pontevedra and Cambados.

Best of luck deciding.

Posted by
1441 posts

I agree. Stay in Galicia. I do know there are direct flights from there to Barcelona.

Posted by
1045 posts

Galicia has four provinces and it´s bigger than it seems, each province would need at least two days, so visiting just Galicia for such a short stay makes total sense.

Posted by
7862 posts

I agree about sticking with Galicia, and to make things easy just rent a car in Porto and go back there to fly out to your next destination. You'll have more flight options than out of Galicia, and you'll avoid cross-border rental car issues.

Posted by
8521 posts

What Balso was referring to was the one way drop charge if renting a vehicle in one country and dropping it off in another. It can be very pricey. Porto isn’t that far from Spain’s border (1.5 hours) with Santiago de Compostela being a 2.5 hours drive.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks all! Sounds like Galicia only for the trip would be best.

And yes, that might work better to rent and return in Porto. I had briefly looked at what the rate would be from Porto with drop off in Spain and couldn't get a rate, though I didn't try too much as was just messing around.

Thanks also Jamieelsabio for those other city options, I'll check those out too. If we stayed in Rias Baixas I was thinking in or around Pontevedra as it sounds like it's a better option than Vigo. Thoughts on A Coruna in addition to Rias Baixas or mix up the sights a bit more than just coastal stays? I'm sure there's some differences in those places as it seems up by A Coruna it's got more impressive cliffs and such? And maybe a bit less on the touristy front compared to Rias Baixas? Thanks!

Posted by
8521 posts

I’ve never spent a night in A Coruña, but if you decide to stay there find lodging with its own parking. A hotel’s parking will probably be about €15 a night where a parking garage will probably be around €25 a day.

Before deciding where to stay, figure out the places you want to visit, then select lodging locations where those locations you want to visit can be easy day trips.

My wife and I like to stay at Paradors. If you haven’t heard of them, consider them. There is one in Pontevedra and anothers in Cambados, Baiona, Tui, Santiago de Compostela, Ferrol, and Muxia. Many have free parking, but not all. If you decide to stay at a Parador, look into its Amigos program. In addition to a 10% rate discount you get a free beverage (beer, wine, soda) upon check in at each Parador. Also, the first time reserving through its website you get a free breakfast buffet for you and a guest. If you have any questions about Paradors, PM me.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks for the info on Paradors! I had briefly looked at it and those look great! Will definitely check out as part of our accommodation options!

I have been working on reconfiguring our options with just Galicia and will report back what we're thinking. Thanks all for the feedback and help re-focusing on things.

Posted by
30494 posts

I've traveled a lot around Spain. Vigo is one of its least interesting cities; maybe it tops that list. Definitely skip it unless you have to be there for logistical reasons. A Coruna, Betanzos, Pontevedra and Santiago de Compostela are much nicer.

Posted by
1045 posts

acraven, Albacete and Ciudad Real will be on top of that list, together with Castellón! Vigo is quite uninteresting, but as it´s a stop for cruised and the starting point for Cíes islands (a paradise), it´s quite popular among foreign visitors (not that much by Spaniards). As an anecdote, it´s famous for its HUGE amount of Christmas lights and its giant Christmas tree (over 12 million leds for a small city, in 460 streets...you need sunglasses at night!).

Same thing about Biarritz, much nicer than Vigo but quite uninteresting. Still, lots of people are attracted by its name and want to visit it, ignoring nearby Baiona/Bayonne, much more attractive IMO.

Posted by
7862 posts

Vigo does have at least one thing going for it: the restaurant Maruja Limón. I had a meal there in the late 2000s and I still remember it.

Posted by
573 posts

This all looks great, thank you! Some of the other towns you mentioned (Muxia, Baiona, Betanzos) maybe fit in to explore as part of these options below. I've been playing around with three options for itineraries (in no particular order). Thoughts on these? Additions, subtractions, other ideas?

- Option 1
Pontevedra (3 nights)-Drive/bus up from Porto mid morning. Afternoon to explore the town. Day 1-trip to Illa de Arousa and Cambados. Day 2-drive to Vigo to explore Cies Islands (or Ons Islands?). Day 3-Drive to Ourense

Ourense (2 nights)- Arrival day explore the town and thermal baths. Day 1-Cañones del Sil area. Day 2-Drive to Santiago de Compostela.

SDC (2 nights)-Arrival day explore town. Day 1-Explore SDC some more or day trip to A Coruna or Lugo.

- Option 2
Pontevedra (3 nights)-Same itinerary as option 1 except Day 3 drive to SDC, maybe a roundabout way along the Costa da Morte.

SDC (4 nights)-Arrival day explore the city. Day 1-More exploration of SDC. Day 2-A Coruna Day 3-Lugo or Ourense.

- Option 3
Pontevedra (4 nights)-Drive/bus up from Porto mid morning. Afternoon to explore the town. Day 1-trip to Illa de Arousa and Cambados. Day 2-drive to Vigo to explore Cies Islands (or Ons Islands?). Day 3-Drive along the Costa da Morte. Day 4-Drive to SDC.

SDC (3 nights)-Arrival day explore SDC. Day 1-A Coruna. Day 2-Lugo or Ourense.

I'm trying to thread the needle a bit between being busy but also not so crazy that we're racing around. Because of that maybe leaning towards option 2? Our pattern is we're usually up early for breakfast and out the door before 9. Then hoping for some downtime (or puttering around near the lodging) in the afternoon before dinner. I know some of the days will probably be more full than others, but welcome thoughts on those that have traveled some of these routes.

Thanks for any insights! Once I get this dialed in a bit more I can share with the other travellers for some final feedback.

Posted by
7862 posts

Orense can exceed 40C in July. I'd stick with options 1&2, and I'd spend more time in Santiago than in Pontevedra because I prefer the northern, wilder rías to the southern ones.
The coast from Muros to Cabo Finisterre is gorgeous. Conversely, I wasn't that impressed by Cambados and Arosa island.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks Balso! As I dive deeper into the daily itinerary I was going to ask about routes along the Costa da Morte, so that's helpful. Also reading about the Ons islands, so maybe an option instead of Illa de Arousa? I'm leaning heavily towards Option 2. Figure the day we leave Pontevedra we can drive along the coast and take it a bit more leisurely knowing we have 3 full days based in SDC.

Posted by
30494 posts

I took a day trip out to the Cies Islands in 2016; that's why I was in Vigo.

Here's the thing about European islands (from my perspective): An island with sandy beaches that aren't really overcrowded will draw very positive reviews from Europeans--and that makes sense, given the mob scene you'll encounter on most beaches in western Europe. That same island may cause an American to think, "Is this all there is?" There are so many fascinating places to see in Spain--even just in Galicia--that I regretted spending time finding my way to the Cies Islands. YMMV.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks for the feedback on the islands. Making me wonder if we base up in A Coruna area for the 3 nights instead of Rias Baixas? One of the draws for Pontevedra area was visiting the islands, but sounds a bit overrated? Looks like about a 3-3.5 hr drive from Porto without stops, which of course we'll add a few of those along the way.

Posted by
30494 posts

Maybe you can find some videos; others might disagree.

I enjoyed A Coruna a lot, and a side trip to Betanzos is easy. Betanzos is hilly, though.

There are interesting stops along the coast that don't take as long to reach as the islands.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks! Yeah, I was looking at a few pictures and the islands look nice for some hikes, etc. We live in the Pacific Northwest in Washington State, so maybe not such a big dramatic difference to warrant the time? My sense is the coast along A Coruna and that area is more rugged with cliffs and/or rock formations? That might be more intriguing for us. We could always do a day trip from Santiago de Compostela out to the Rias Baixas instead. Really appreciate your insights on this, it's been super helpful!

Posted by
1441 posts

Take a look at the Parador in Muxia....stunning modern structure overlooking a beach of which travels posters are made. Easy drive to the little port of Muxia with its good seafood eateries....easy drive from there to Santiago..

Full disclosure--we love staying on the Island de la Toxa, but it's mostly for relaxation,, scenery and proximity to some of Spain's best seafood restaurants.....we've been going once a year recently..

Posted by
30494 posts

Yes, with hiking in a beachy environment, the islands might be worthwhile. The last time I tried to do that, I fell, gave myself a black eye and bent the frame of my glasses. The glasses were rescued, without charge, by a nice French optician. The black eye I just had to endure, looking like a victim of domestic violence for quite some time. I no longer try to walk on uneven ground; that accident took place on a bike trail, and there was no bicycle or other person involved.

Posted by
122 posts

I have a similar trip planned in July, starting in Porto.

In the area of the Costa da Morte I decided to stay in a town called Camariñas for three days. My criteria for a place to stay is to find a nice hotel within walking distance to a town with some restaurants or markets. Walking distance is anything around 1,5 miles or less. This way I can have some drinks with dinner and not worry about it. Camarinas seems to fit this description and doesn’t look overly visited. There are only a few positive comments about it in these forums. Guess I’ll find out what it’s like.

There were other appealing hotels in the area, like the modern Parador and another place right on the coast and the lighthouse way hiking trail but they were not within walking distance to anything. Also, I considered A Coruña but didn’t want to be in a larger city due to having a rental car.

Maybe we will see you on the Costa da Morte, aka the coast of death!

Posted by
573 posts

Oh no, I'm sorry to hear about that acraven! So far I've been pretty lucky on our travels with no major injuries. Knock on wood. Seems Rias Baixas would be a bit more touristy, and coastal beach environment, but the area around A Coruna more of a "less travelled" area with more dramatic coastal coastline? Correct me if I'm wrong. I'll have to see what the group thinks between the regions.

That would be funny if we ran into each other Joe! Yeah, a big criteria for us is staying in a large enough town to have some variety of restaurants to accommodate two people with dietary restrictions. One is celiac, and the other is vegetarian. I'd love to stay in some smaller places but dining might be a bit more problematic, that's why I was looking at A Coruna or Pontevedra area. We tend to like the smaller places more than the huge cities, but celiac has altered our travel a bit more. I'll take a look at Camariñas though!

The parador outside Muxia looks great, but will need to look at some of the dining options more closely. It certainly is a spectacular looking hotel, and I can see why you stayed there!

Posted by
8521 posts

The Muxia Parador is off by itself and a couple miles from Muxia itself. It’s a new Parador that initially opened after COVID.

The link is to the Parador’s restaurant. Scroll down for the menu (in Spanish).
https://paradores.es/es/restaurante-nosa-senora-da-barca-parador-costa-da-morte

When we stay at Paradors we always get the buffet breakfast. It is very extensive (whichever Parador it is) with a large selection. The meats and cheeses are locally sourced from the region the Parador is in and vary between Paradors.

You can also send the Parador an email: [email protected]

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks for the links! That place does look pretty magical.

Posted by
30494 posts

Jed, I'm afraid I don't remember anything about the coastline near A Coruna. If no one else can step in with info, I'd suggest looking for online videos. I've looked at a map and see that I definitely walked part of the way around the peninsula, but I have no memory of the scenery! I tend to be more focused on architecture, I guess.

Posted by
1045 posts

I spent last summer 15 days on the top northern coast of A Coruña, from Foz in the east to Ferrol in the west. Amazing cliffs (the highest in Europe), the coast is spectacular, small towns, freezing beaches, great food. Cariño, Viveiro, Cedeira, cape Ortegal, the ría of Ortigueira...Very much off the beaten path, hardly any local tourism, much less any foreign tourism. If you like nature, cliffs, wind and beautiful (freezing) beaches, that´s your place. El Ferrol deserves a good visit, by the way.

Posted by
573 posts

No worries Acraven, I've really appreciated your feedback on this thread. Mikel, thanks for this info too. It's been helpful. I'm now leaning towards 3 nights in the A Coruna area and then 4 in Santiago de Compostela where we could do a day trip to Rias Baixas. Thinking of the following general itinerary (need to figure out best way to get to A Coruna area from Porto. Pick up of rental car in Porto and drop off in SDC is around $800 for our dates. Seeing rates half that for pick up and drop off in Spain...but I digress, lol)

  • Option 4 A Coruna (maybe stay in Ferrol at Parador) (3 nights)-Arrival day explore A Coruna (or Ferrol). Day 1-Explore Betanzos, Ferrol and the coast in that area via car. Day 2- Drive to Playa de las Catedrales and explore the coastline through Foz and O Vicedo on the way back to A Coruna. Day 3 drive to SDC, maybe a roundabout way along the Costa da Morte.

SDC (4 nights)-Arrival day explore the city. Day 1-More exploration of SDC. Day 2-Rias Baixas Day 3-Lugo or Ourense.

Posted by
30494 posts

You can get across the Portuguese-Spanish border by public transportation, but I don't have details for you. I think a few others here have mentioned making that trip. I don't remember whether it's 100% by train or includes a short bus link.

According to Google Maps, the trip from Porto to Santiago de Compostela can be made by train or by bus (ALSA or FlixBus) or by a combination of train+bus. I haven't attempted to verify that information. If you can get to Santiago, other cities in Galicia will also be possible. Pontevedra would be quicker, I assume.

Posted by
1045 posts

You need to book a time slot to get to Playa de las Catedrales in July, it has become so popular that you can only enter with a reservation.

Posted by
8521 posts

Adding to what Mikel stated, Playa de las Catedrales is most impressive when the tide is out and one can walk on the beach beneath the cliffs. When we visited, unfortunately the tide was in.

As a day trip, I’d choose Lugo over Ourense. It’s smaller and has the Roman wall one can walk around. It doesn’t require a full day. If you like old chapels and did go to Lugo, a very nice chapel is the 15th century Igrexa de San Salvador de Vilar de Donas. It’s about a half mile off the N-547 in Villar de Donas. Continuing towards SDC is O Leboreiro. There’s a small chapel there and the place looks like you’ve gone back in time. It is on the Camino de Santiago and is also off the N-547. A little further up the road is the town of Melide that hosts the oldest wayside cross in Galicia. Be very careful when with your speed when entering and leaving Melide as there are speed cameras at both ends of town.

Finally, a couple kilometers outside of SDC is Monte de Gozo with the statue (Monumento al caminante) of two pilgrims looking towards the cathedral.

Posted by
1441 posts

Camariñas is very picturesque and certainly walkable. The town curves around the port, with handsome buildings and quite a few restaurants.

But instead of staying that town, we visited one morning, driving from the Parador in. Muxia. Again, I thought that this parador was exceptional and unlike the image that comes to mind when you think of Paradors, as it's a contemporary building that was planned after the terrible maritime disaster and oil spill in the area. The architecture is quite striking, the rooms are cutting-edge contemporary and the building is filled with art and exhibits related to the Prestige oil spill, the worst environmental disaster in Spanish history. Every floor has works of art and exhibits, the rooms have glorious views down to the sandy cove, and it's about a ten minute drive into Muxia.

Breakfasts while fine, sort of typical of a Parador, were not their strong suit when we were there--not enough servers to attend to all the guests, so it was a bit chaotic but not really an issue in the grand picture....

It also has a beautiful swimming pool that overlooks the beach and the ocean far in the distance.

It's an easy drive from there, not only to Camariñas, but also to Finisterre, which has several notable restaurants, and to the airport at Santiago, which offers direct flights to Barcelona.

If your plans include staying at the Parador in Santiago, I would book as soon as possible.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks all for the added details, thoughts on Lugo and info on beach access. I was looking at Google Maps for a quick estimate of travel times. Bus to SDC and drive from there is just over 4.5 hours, best case and no stops. Bus to Vigo and then drive is about 30 minutes shorter. Not huge, but might be nice to be in a car versus bus for more of the journey. Not sure if there's anywhere else just across the border to rent a car, but I'll investigate.

I was trying to find tide tables for Playa de las Catedrales but I couldn't find any that far out. Would definitely want to be there at low tide.

I'm kind of leaning towards staying at the Parador in Ferrol instead of staying in A Coruna and then do day trips from there. It looks like Ferrol is large enough to give us dining options (and we can eat at the Parador one night too). We'll dig around some more before making a decision. As much as the Parador in Muxia looks amazing, that might be a place down the road for a bit more of a staycation option for us.

Thanks all for helping me dial this itinerary in! I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions as we keep planning! Cheers!

Edit: Other option is starting with the 4 nights in SDC, and then up to A Coruna area for 3 nights. Then drive to the SDC airport the morning of our departure (think we'll have early afternoon flights). It would make that travel day from Porto up to SDC a bit shorter and less hectic with things.

Posted by
1441 posts

Sometimes I just drop the car at the train station the day before and take taxi to the airport..

Posted by
7862 posts

Is there no way for you to fly from Porto to your next destination? You wouldn't have to deal with the bus to Spain, and the drive from La Coruña to Porto airport isn't that long, perhaps 3 hours.

As for Ferrol: avoid. Almost depressing place, with visible urban decay. It's a largely industrial and military town. Granted, the only reason I went was to consult family-related documents at the military archives, so I guess I wasn't in the best mood to start with, but still. La Coruña will be far better for a tourist. I don't think you would regret Muxia either: the region is starkly beautiful, and it would provide a good balance vs. urban Santiago. 3 nights would be enough in Muxia.

Posted by
1045 posts

Balso, funny but I did like Ferrol, and its huge collection of painted walls, something really unique. Also, the city center and the classic houses with glass balconies did seem quite nice. Truly, A Coruña will be more interesting, but Ferrol is far from being a bad visit, IMO. It may also be due to the great outdoor lunch we had at El Puerto tavern, with the freshest and cheapest seafood ever.

Posted by
135 posts

Just to chime in late: I visited Porto in 2024. And Bilbao in 2025.

Porto was very enjoyable and walkable. I hope you explore. We stayed on Rua das Flores, which I highly recommend.

Bilbao was a bucket list destination for me. I loved the museum!! Being in it. Gazing at it. We stayed in the Art hotel, super close by.

Posted by
573 posts

I'll take a look again at Porto as the rental car origin and drop off. See if we can get flights late enough in the day. We'd probably finish our trip in SDC, so really would just have to drive from there down to Porto. When looking at how to get up to SDC and A Coruna, it was a bit of a chore, with a bus to SDC, then either rent from train station or uber to airport to pick up a car and then drive to A Coruna. Had me thinking I'd just reverse the order of stays and do our 4 nights in SDC first.

Thanks for the perspectives on Ferrol, I'll look deeper into that. My primary motivation(s) for Ferrol was to stay at the Parador, but also as a base to go around the region as it was about 40-45 minutes from A Coruna. So one day we could head back that way to explore and the other day work our way north and east along the coast, saving us some driving time, especially if we headed out to Playa de las Catedrales. But I'm not set on that as a base so open to other options.

We will have a full day in Porto before the cruise and the cruise will dock in Porto the day before we disembark, so will have that day and evening there as well. Excited to check it out!

I did share the general framework (and this thread) with the group and they loved the itinerary, so next steps are to dig deeper into things! Thanks again for all your help!

Posted by
7862 posts

I wouldn't go that far out of my way to visit Playa de Los Catedrales. It is busy (reservation needed in summer), and while pretty...I found it a bit overrated. Much less impressive than Étretat in France, for example. They're almost as fast to get to from A Coruña than from Ferrol btw, a 10-minute difference.

If you do end up in Ferrol, don't miss going up the Herbeira cliffs. Very impressive. Santo André de Teixeido is a good place for lunch there.

Posted by
573 posts

Thanks for the tip on Garita de Herbeira, they look cool! Same with the beaches around O'Grove. Definitely looks like the Carribean!

Talked with the group and strongly leaning towards car rental in Porto and return there. Most efficient and flexible for travel up to Spain. Anyone stay at the Pardor in Ferrol? Looking at some of the main hotels in A Coruna and seem a bit more commercial, but the Parador has a great feel to it.

Posted by
1045 posts

Just take into account that, despite their Caribbean look, water is more or less as cold as in Maine...freezing.

Posted by
573 posts

Yes, for sure! I am a wimp when it comes to cold water. The actual water temps in the Caribbean are about my speed. lol.

Posted by
7862 posts

Note that the Parador in Ferrol is only a 3-star hotel and is less polished than most other Paradores. The price reflects this. If you're not sold on La Coruña, you could also consider staying in Betanzos.

Posted by
8521 posts

I’ve not stayed at the Ferrol Parador, but we really enjoy staying at them.

We’ve stayed at 36 Paradors so far and in that area we’ve stayed at the ones in Tui, Baiona, Santiago de Compostela, and Ribadeo. Of all the Paradors, only the one in Ribadeo was in need of some updating.

I’ve yet to figure out the star system since I’ve stayed at many 3-star hotels that were much nicer than some 4 star hotels. Essentially, a sliding scale that differs depending on where you’re at.