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help with north coast puzzle?

My first time posting, enjoying reading threads on Spain travel! Our first trip to Spain, we are a family of four with 10-yr-old son + 8-yr-old daughter. We are all comfortable with Spanish (though we're used to castellano from Argentina).

Two main areas of inquiry, smaller one first:

1) Arriving mid-June, planning on about 3 weeks making our way from Barcelona to Madrid. So many wonderful itinerary suggestions in this forum, thank you! Questions:

a) any additional nuggets of wisdom about this area specifically with regard to things kids the age of ours would enjoy? We love the outdoors, wandering on foot, by bike or bus, water/beaches, food, street performances, festivals, music, appreciate some history and architecture but are not buffs (i may be slaughtered for saying that, i'm sorry!) and our kids will not love endless hours of pacing walls, guided tours, or touring cathedrals or museums. We will definitely enjoy the Barcelona sights, the Dali wonders, caves, some beaches, hopefully some Picos hiking. So, anything else that you would recommend as wonderful specifically for a family along the possible itineraries of northern Spain?

b) if we are not in a rush is it feasible and economical to make our way during these 3 weeks mostly by bus?

2) The real puzzle: After our 3-week trip, my husband is heading home and the kids and I are looking for a place on the north coast in which to settle for another 5 weeks to practice our Spanish (early July to mid-August). Our main criteria are a place where they primarily speak conventional castilian spanish and that has organized activities for children. I'd prefer to avoid the largest cities of the region (popn 100K+), and I'm guessing if we go to any of the tiny (1-5K) picturesque (and positively dreamy-sounding!) fishing towns, there will be few organized kids' activities and they may speak mostly the autonomous language of the region. So I'm thinking that mid-size would be best - am I right? The organized activities are key because I speak to my kids in Spanish (castellano) almost exclusively anyway, and they reply in English...sigh. I will need to drop them off somewhere for the day with Spaniards in order for this to be anything different than a regular day at home. It doesn't need to be a guidebook destination or have any unique attractions. The fewer tourists the better, especially any English speakers. We would very, very much love to be right on the coast near safe swimming beaches. We're water people, there's just no way around it. And, finally, we are hoping to stick to the north coast because we're not hot, hot, humid weather people, either. ;)

So, is this fantasy? Or might there be a real town along the north coast that has swim lessons or a futbol club or actual summer art, music, etc programs for kids of working families at which everyone was speaking primarily Spanish? (I do realize that programming in August might be slim anyway because of vacations, but we'll have at least 3 weeks in July). Do Laredo or Castro Urdiales seem like possibilities - how about the language there? Should I drop my avoidance of the larger cities and check out someplace like Santander? Am I wrong about language or activities in the small towns? Should I give up the desire to be right on the water? North coast altogether (when I mention language immersion around here, everyone says Salamanca, but I don't want to be surrounded by students from other countries. we don't need spanish classes, we want to live a regular life in spanish. plus it sounds hot.)? What would you do? :)

So very, very grateful for any thoughts to throw in the hopper - muchas gracias!
Michelle

Posted by
12313 posts

You might enjoy my trip report. I cover a variety of things

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/spain-clean-toilets-affordable-lodging

I'm not sure about Castillian Spanish on the north coast it's seems the primary languages will be from west to east Gallego, Euskadi (Basque) and Catalon.

Everyone will speak Castillian Spanish as a second language so you will be able to communicate. I didn't hear proper Castillian Spanish until three weeks into our trip. That was from our Bodega tour guide in Jerez.

I agree mid-size towns may be your better bet. There are also likely to be people vacationing from elsewhere in Spain that will make Castillian Spanish (or some dialect) more common. I'd probably go to Santander or Llanes. I hear great things about the area but it was pretty rainy and chilly when I was in the area (April) so we didn't explore much.

Posted by
16895 posts

You own Spanish skills will make it easier for you to search options designed for locals. When I search in English online, there are many summer Day Camp offers, and maybe searching in Spanish would yield different results. Nearly every town of any size in Europe does have a municipal web site, which might link you to rec centers or community festivals. Perhaps also try regional newspapers online.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you both, Brad and Laura! Work got busy, so travel planning took a back seat for a while. I am waiting to hear about apartments in some small towns on the coast of Asturias - from more digging and connections to some locals, it sounds like there is a sweet spot between Galicia and the Basque region where we'll mostly be hearing Castilian Spanish.

Brad, your "blog" was fantastic to read! Lots of great info, and someday (without kids!) I'd love to follow your entire path.

Laura, I have tried online searching for kids' programming (in Spanish and English) and, unless we go somewhere fairly large (Santander, Oviedo), I'm not finding much. We may just have to wander around and find little art or swimming classes once we settle down.

I decided to start from the beginning and am currently overwhelmed just trying to decide how long to stay and what to do in Barcelona. There are so many sights and so much to try to consider in terms of hours/days of operation, advance tickets, relative costs, etc - I have a lot of work to do! :)

Thanks again - very much appreciate you taking the time to write!
Michelle

Posted by
7175 posts

I too think Santander would be your best bet for Castellano.
Bus ? Hell no. Always train. Or maybe car if you plan on more out of the way places.

Posted by
55 posts

The Menendez Pelayo Institute in Santander has summer courses. I'm not certain about the age groups, but I know that many cultural activities are planned. Santander has a lovely beach area, too! Also, I have taken the bus quite a bit in Spain. I find it to be comfortable, economical and convenient.