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Help with itinerary for southern Spain trip

Hi. In December I'm going to Spain for 2 weeks, for the first time, and I'm going solo. I want to see the Alhambra and Mezquite, so I'm going to Granada and Cordoba - trying to figure out how to allot the days given my focused interests. I love walking, feeling a sense of history, small towns and cities, and art but don't enjoy crowded museums.

What I really want is to feel like I'm going back in time. This is why I love Rome but I've been there 3 times and I'm trying to branch out. The atmosphere of a place matters the most to me, more than doing any particular cultural thing or seeing any beautiful site. I loved Mdina in Malta, the magical quiet from the walls surrounding you. So I think I should go to Toledo also. From what I've read I think I might like Granada - a little edgy, the Albyacin, mountains in the background. Maybe I go to those three and not Seville? I love art but cannot tolerate crowds well, so smaller or less known museums are good for me. I went to the Borghese Gallery in Rome and remember none of it - can't do crowds like that. If I go to Seville I will go to the Fine Arts Museum. I have been to many European capitals and I'm sure I would love Madrid but I think that's a different trip for me, probably with my boyfriend.

I know this might be criminal but I am not interested in food or restaurants. I'll be buying groceries and eating wherever seems not intimidating as a solo woman, polite but with no Spanish - I will get some useful phrases cued up! I fly into Madrid on Dec. 12th and out of Madrid Dec. 25. Here's what I'm thinking:

Dec. 12 after landing Madrid take train to Toledo, stay 4 nights even though not as big as the other places and not as much to "do" because the first 2 days I will be in a jet lag haze. From what I've read on this forum I think I'll love the quiet at night when daytrippers have left.

Dec. 16 train to Cordoba for 2 nights (or 3 if I skip Seville?)
Dec. 18 train to Seville for 3 nights (or skip Seville because even though many things to do it is more of a big city which I don't think I want)
Dec. 21 train to Granada for 3 nights (more if I skip Seville)
Dec. 24 fly or train to Madrid night before flight

If I skip Seville I could do a few nights in Madrid but I'm not sure that's a good use of my time. I like being in one place longer than most people (Vienna 10 days not enough!) and really seeing people living regular life. I like doing nothing in these amazing places with beautiful architecture and feeling surrounded by history.

Thank you very much!

Posted by
7322 posts

I really get what you are saying about Seville and it being a large city, BUT, it has so much you need to see. The old town city will feel like a smaller town. I feel like Sevilla is a much more historic city than Madrid. The Alcazar is amazing. If you are interested in fine arts, you SHOULD see the alcazar. The cathedral is stunning, also with a lot of art. The city has a lot of energy. Three days is plenty for Granada.

You might look at some of the recent posts for the area. It is quite a popular trip, so there are many posts. I suggest watching some of the Rick Steves TV show episodes for Andalusia

Posted by
1377 posts

GREAT time of year, what fun! Here's a recent Trip Report from CWSocial, she covered the same cities. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/november-getaway-in-andalusia

Be sure to get your Mesquita & Alhambra tickets nailed down to avoid disappointment. There's a thread on here somewhere from TexasTravelMom's visit to Toledo, worth reading! Yep, given what interests you, I'd skip Madrid too. Have a great trip!

Posted by
587 posts

Spain is amazing…and addictive…so you cannot go wrong. I enjoy cities,,,my spouse does not. I am good with museums…he, not so much. For us, Madrid was all about Guernica at Reina Sofia and, mostly, great food (would return for the food!). Nearby to Madrid, Segovia is lovely and may have the atmosphere you are seeking. You might also enjoy walking the walls in Avila. Cordoba, too, is atmospheric and the Mezquita is absolutely incredible. The Alhambra is impressive but, for us, Granada felt touristy and crowded. Unlike Madrid, Seville does not feel like a big city. If you were happy in Rome, you will likely love Seville. It is easy to wander and explore. Recommend the rooftop tour of the cathedral, which was a highlight for us. And, go to Bar el Comercio for churros with chocolate!

Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
551 posts

I travel slow and I don't like crowds. Also, it seems like you'll have the opportunity to visit Spain again in the future.
So I would follow your instincts and take it slowly.
Four nights each in Toledo, Granada and Cordoba sounds fantastic to me.
Or 4 Toledo, 5 Granada and 3 Cordoba.
Adding Sevilla will just make it rushed. Maybe go to Sevilla in the future with your boyfriend.
The Mezquita in Cordoba is splendid. So is the Alhambra, perhaps more so, but the Mezquita is so atmospheric and big that if you go early in the morning for the free entry sort of before you're even awake properly it's a magical experience (or any time of day).
We've been to Cordoba twice but I will have to go back for the Mezquita.
Last time on an extended trip.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/spain-in-january-february-madrid-sevilla-cordoba-toledo-valencia-and-coast-n-s-of-alicante
We stayed 8 nights in Granada on a previous trip- lots to wander and see and do.
https://slowtravelitalyspain.blogspot.com/2019/04/granada-in-march-trip-report.html?m=1

Posted by
551 posts

PS If you are self-catering in Spain look for Mercadona supermarkets which are fantastic and not expensive.
Instead in Toledo there's the municipal market right next to the cathedral. Very good

Posted by
7835 posts

Additional grocery stores you might come across are Carrefour, Hipercor, El Corte Inglés, Aldi, Lidl, and Día. There are others.