Granada to Ronda to Seville

My personal choice would be to rent a car and you might want to add a night in Arcos de la Frontera on the way. There is a large underground parking lot in the center of Ronda. But be aware that the spectacular drive through the white towns involves very hilly and narrow roads that are extremely curvy.

If you are taking the A393 and go through Espera, look for the green churros stand just before the road narrows to one lane. Stop and enjoy fresh churros and hot chocolate.

If this is the itinerary you want I don't think you can do it without renting a car. You can visit Ronda from Granada and you can visit Arcos from Seville via public transport. But to connect the white hill towns together via public transport - especially on any kind of schedule - seems very unlikely to me. I did the opposite - renting in Seville and returning in Granada with the hill towns in between and I really enjoyed it.

Renting and Driving tips:
1. Get full coverage on any rental. Just do it. Arcos is famously narrow with tight corners but even in big cities there are tight spots like parking garages.
2. Get the smallest car you can get away with. (See 1) This probably means a stick shift as automatics usually only come on larger, more expensive cars.
3. Get an International Drivers License. It's silly but they do care in Spain and if you interact with the police at all - like a DUI checkpoint and you don't have it expect a ticket.
4. Many of the big highways in the countryside are toll roads. Google maps will tell you if you are toll roads but in general I wouldn't worry about it too much. It's charged by mileage and it's usually 2 to 5 euros a section. (Personally I think it worth to stay off the frontage roads and save an hour or more for a few euros.)
5. Get full coverage.

The good news is that the Spanish are pretty safe and sane drivers and driving was pretty easy. Stay out of the core of towns - they'll fine you in Granada and you'll get stuck in Arcos - but in general things are pretty easy and no one is being crazy. I didn't find the driving through the National Park intimidating at all. There are some locals who will tailgate you but they'll pass you as soon as they can - just ignore them and drive the speed you're comfortable with - this is true anywhere in Spain.

Google maps works pretty well - especially between cities but I'd add 20% ish on their travel times and take it easy.

The Seville car rental return is adjacent the train station and is right off the highway. The old town in Seville would be hard to end up in by accident so drop the car off first thing and then head into the old section of the city car free.

Two Spanish driving quirks:
1) They have no signs inside the roundabouts. So you can circle as many times as you want but if you missed the signs going in that won't help you. Pick an exit and then come back and pay attention on the return. (If you're not comfortable with roundabouts brush up on them before driving anywhere in Europe.)
2) On some busy streets - at least in the South - to make a left turn you pull off to right and wait to cross traffic left with the light. That description is incomprehensible in Google maps until you see it. "Ease to the right lane to make a left turn". What?

Once you've tackled the cost of the car rental and freedom and getting off into little towns seems worth then just go with it and enjoy the trip.
Have a great time,
=Tod

PS If you stay in Los Arcos you could do much worse than Hotel El Convento - get a balcony room you won't regret it.

I agree with the others that you'll need a car.

Ronda is accessible by bus or train from several places; I traveled there from Seville and went on to Malaga.

Vejer de la Frontera is a day-trip from Cadiz but is not one of the most-visited white towns.

Arcos is a (not quick) day-trip from Seville and probably also from Ronda. It's fastest from Jerez.

Grazalema is a day-trip from Ronda. Not sure about getting there from the other direction.

There's a bus from Ronda to Zahara de la Sierra but you cannot return the same day (meaning service is extremely infrequent).

Even if you were able to string together a bunch of (mostly) bus segments, you'd have no control over how much time you spent in each place and might well end up with only snacks for food. Story of my life.

Thank you both. I think we will rent a car - gives us flexibility. Thanks a bunch again for taking time to provide all the info.

Thank you all.

Hi,
I just drove through Arcos several times last month. Yes, you don't want a big honkin' mercedes, but it is really no problem. It is one lane, going one direction, with near to zero cars entering from either side. Go slow a carefully, that is all. Hug the outside of every curve and you will be fine on the opposite side of the car. You don't have to be watching both sides of the car at once. Hug the outside of the curve and there will be room for you.

As for car insurance...I always rely on my credit card's complementary coverage. It is free. Just decline all extra insurance offered when renting, both while online and at the counter where they will look deep into your soul and ask if you are sure you don't want windscreen insurance or under carriage insurance.

Take photoes of the car's exterior. My last rental car had four dimples in one panel so I went back into the office were they altered my rental to indicate the preexisting damage. Take Photos of each fender and door, hood, trunk and Roof.

And when you return the car photograph the gas station receipt indicating when and where you filled the tank before returning the car. Don't erase those photos, any of them, until many months later.

Take your time when you first get the car. Do all the inspections for damage and do your photo shoot. Then adjust mirrors, find where wiper control is, along with blinkers and emergency flashers. Head lights. Finding or adjusting these while driving is asking for trouble. Taking your time before you start the car is important Plus you will put your passangers more at ease.

Wayne in Wisconsin