Hello -
We will be in Barcelona a few days before our Mediterranean cruise. I want to see as much Gaudi as possible. Any suggestions as to how to do that, including where to stay?
Thanks,
Joanna
Gaudi’s Casa Batllo and Casa Mila are both located in the Eixample District. BacHome Gallery B&B, recommended by Rick Steves, is just a few blocks away.
Absolutely get tickets for the Sagrada Familia. A guided tour will give you additional insight. This is the do-not-miss Gaudi site. Casa Mila would be a second, particularly the roof. Gaudi was the master but there were other modernista architects and, therefore, sites. The Hospital Sant Pau is stunning. Cabs are everywhere and are cheap. Stay wherever you want. Avoid Las Ramblas but if you must, guard your valuables. Most talented pickpockets on earth!
I recommend taking a look at the Ruta del Modernisme website. Scroll down on this webpage and you'll see small pictures of the key modernista structures and objects in the city, many by Gaudi.
https://rutadelmodernisme.com/modernisme-route/
The organization publishes a guidebook with brief descriptions of modernista sights throughout Spain and packages it with a map and book of discount coupons. Your visit is short enough that I wouldn't bother tracking down the Ruta del Modernisme office to buy those things. As far as I know, the discounts are available only if you buy your entry tickets at each sight, and that doesn't work well at the most famous ones because of the length of their ticket lines. For these sights you'll want to buy online tickets in advance:
- La Sagrada Familia
- Parc Guell
- Casa Mila/La Pedrera
- Casa Batllo
- Picasso Museum (not related to modernism)
The Palau de la Musica Catalana is a fabulous modernista building, though not designed by Gaudi. Tours are offered; book in advance since English tours can sell out. Another option is to get tickets to one of the concerts held in the main auditorium.
The aforementioned Sant Pau modernista site is beautiful and can be a spur-of-the-moment sightseeing target because you can just walk up and buy your ticket on the spot. It will not be a quick visit, however, because this is a multi-building complex (a former hospital).
It's also worth mentioning the MNAC, a large art museum on Montjuic with an interesting Modernism collection encompassing jewelry, furniture and decorative art.
In 2016 I bought a city map at the tourist office beneath Placa de Catalunya that had a lot of modernista buildings marked. Most are not pay-to-enter sites, but it's great to see their exteriors. You can find a lot of them just by walking around the Eixample neighborhood, if they're marked on your map.
My humble suggestion is to explore the works of several architects. While Gaudí is undoubtedly the most famous, he is just one of many Modernist masters who filled Barcelona—and Catalonia—with architectural wonders. Names like Puig i Cadafalch, Domènech i Montaner, Sagnier, Muncunill, Jujol, and Valeri i Pupurull and dozens more crafted gems such as Palau de la Música Catalana, Casa Amatller, Casa de les Punxes, Casa Lleó i Morera, and Casa Rocamora -all of the listed can be visited. Barcelona, being a cradle of world-renowned architects, also boasts contemporary figures like Miralles, Bofill, and Clotet, who designed marvels like the Mercat de Santa Caterina and the Walden building, among others.
https://rutadelmodernisme.com/en/ —mentioned earlier—is a great source for a peek at Modernist architects. You can purchase a 12€ guide that will take you through different self-paced routes in the city, where you can admire dozens of these wonderfully crafted Modernist buildings. Note that the vast majority are private residences, so you can only see the exterior façades —yet worthwhile the walk, trust me!
We did a free walking tour focused on Gaudi. It started in a small square right near the Ramblas and the guide told us about the street lamps designed by Gaudi right in the square. So that was an eye opener. Then we walked to numerous points of Gaudi interest, with commentary. One building he designed is and has been occupied continually by people who have never let their lease go away because once you do you will never get back into that building. Streetlights, facades, it was a plethora of information and sights.
Barcelona highlights for us were Sagrada Familia and Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau. We booked Sagrada Familia tickets for opening time and were able to wander and enjoy the amazing space when it was nearly empty. From Sagrada Familia it was a short walk to Sant Pau which was a joy to explore. Highly recommend Hotel Praktik Rambla.
Sagrada Familia. The inside of that place is one of the best things I have ever seen in my life.