Gaudi adventure

Hi Janey,

To consider...

1. Gaudí and the others
Most people know Antoni Gaudí, the genius behind the Sagrada Família and Park Güell. He’s definitely the superstar of Catalan Modernism, but he wasn’t alone. Architects like Josep Puig i Cadafalch, Enric Sagnier, Lluís Domènech i Montaner, or Josep Maria Jujol -among dozens of others- all left their mark on Barcelona and in other cities of Catalonia (Girona, Sabadell, Terrassa, Reus...). If you wander around the city, you’ll see their buildings mixed in with Gaudí’s, each with its own style but still part of the same movement.

2. What Modernism was all about
Modernism in Catalonia was more than just fancy houses. Emerging in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was a cultural movement where Catalans sought to reclaim and express their identity, shaped by centuries of repression after the loss of freedoms in 1714 and the heavy-handed Spanish control of Catalonia during the 18th century. Through art, architecture, literature, music, theatre, and design, Catalans infused their work with a renewed sense of national pride. Buildings blossomed with colour, curved lines, mosaics, ironwork, and nature-inspired decoration. Think of it as Catalonia’s version of Art Nouveau, but with a distinct personality deeply rooted in the memory of a lost sovereignty and a resilient culture

3. "Ruta del Modernisme"
If you’re into exploring, Barcelona has what’s called the Ruta del Modernisme. It’s basically a self-guided trail that takes you past the most important Modernist buildings. Of course, you’ll hit Gaudí’s classics like Casa Batlló and La Pedrera, but you’ll also see masterpieces like Domènech i Montaner’s Palau de la Música Catalana or the Hospital de Sant Pau. The route is a great way to understand that Modernism wasn’t just one man’s work; it was a whole wave that shaped the look and feel of the city. Most Modernist houses in Barcelona are still private homes or offices, so you usually can’t go inside. The good news is that the façades are the real show, and you can admire them just by walking down the street. The official Ruta del Modernisme highlights over 120 buildings across the city, from Gaudí’s famous creations to lesser-known gems. It’s like an open-air museum where every corner surprises you with curves, mosaics, and details you won’t see anywhere else.

https://rutadelmodernisme.com/en/

4. Museu del Modernisme
There’s also a small but very interesting museum dedicated to the movement, the Museu del Modernisme. Right now, it’s temporarily closed and nobody knows if it’ll reopen, but keep an eye out. If it does, it’s well worth a visit for its furniture, paintings, and small-scale treasures that bring the era to life.

https://www.mmbcn.cat/el-museu/

5. Palau Güell
One Modernist gem that often gets overlooked is Palau Güell, one of Gaudí’s early masterpieces. It’s right by Les Rambles, and unlike many Modernist houses, you can actually go inside. The mansion was built for the wealthy Güell family, and it shows Gaudí experimenting with the ideas that later exploded in places like Casa Batlló and Park Güell. The rooftop chimneys alone are worth the visit.

https://inici.palauguell.cat/en/

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6. Palau de la Música Catalana
This is another must-see Modernist masterpiece, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner. It’s a concert hall, but even if you’re not catching a show, the building itself is incredible. The stained-glass skylight, the mosaics, the intricate columns, every detail is a celebration of Catalan Modernism. Guided tours are available, and they really help you understand the artistry and symbolism packed into the space.

https://www.palaumusica.cat/en/

7. Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau
This used to be a hospital and is one of the largest Modernist complexes in the world. Designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, it’s full of colourful mosaics, stained glass, and beautiful gardens. You can walk through most of the pavilions and imagine how the spaces were used. It’s a peaceful place and shows a very different side of Modernism, functional, yet still incredibly artistic. Having reached a certain age, lol!, I can say I vaguely remember having visited it with my grandma when it was still a functioning hospital. Can you imagine?

https://santpaubarcelona.org/en/

Some more food for thought:
https://patrimoni.gencat.cat/en/discover/top-20
https://www.veranda.com/home-decorators/a35075545/what-is-catalan-modernisme/

Enjoy!

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Keywords: [infocat], modernisme, gaudí, barcelona

Too bad the forum doesn’t have “stickies” because this post surely deserves one - an excellent guide to Modernista. We did #6,7 & 8 on our last trip and they were our favorites. My one regret was we didn’t try to get tickets for a concert at Palau de la Musica Catalonia. We did a tour and were fascinated, but it would have been easy to take in a concert.

With the lesser known venues, you’re not fighting crowds so are able to really enjoy each site. Have a great trip.

If you’re into architecture, I have to say Barcelona really is a dream. And it’s not only about Gaudí or Modernisme. The city feels like a history book written in stone, brick, and glass, and you can see its layers everywhere you go. Here are a few of the things I find most fascinating:

Roman Barcelona
One of my favourite things is how the Roman past still peeks through the modern city. You can spot stretches of the old Roman walls around the Gothic Quarter, and there’s even a temple to Augustus tucked away on Carrer Paradís. It is especially surprising at Santa Caterina Market. You go in expecting food stalls under that incredible wavy roof by Miralles and Tagliabue, but underneath you’ll find the ruins of the old 13th-century convent, demolished in the 1800s. When they remodelled the market, archaeologists uncovered Roman streets, houses, and even tombs. Today, you can have a glimpse (for free) of a little archaeological site right in the basement. It’s amazing to stand there and realise you’re looking at 2,000 years of history stacked one on top of the other. The MUHBA at Plaça del Rei is a must for Roman-related bits and pieces.

Gothic architecture
Wandering through the Gothic Quarter always feels like stepping into another time. The Cathedral, Santa Maria del Pi, and Santa Maria del Mar are stunning, each in its own way. Santa Maria del Mar, in particular, really shows off the beauty of Catalan Gothic.

Renaissance and Baroque
These styles are rarer, but you can catch glimpses in the Palau de la Virreina or on the façades of certain churches, like Sant Felip Neri. That square also has such a moving atmosphere because of its dark recent history.

19th-century eclecticism and neoclassicism
Before Modernisme took over, there was a phase where styles mixed freely. The Llotja de Mar is one of my favourite examples of neoclassical elegance, and it makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a more refined, formal Barcelona.

Noucentisme
After all the curves and colour of Modernisme, Noucentisme came in with a calmer, Mediterranean-inspired style. The Palau Nacional, now home to the MNAC museum, is a striking example. It’s the kind of building that feels both grand and grounded at the same time.

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Rationalism and post-war architecture
Walking through some neighbourhoods you’ll notice the more functional side of Barcelona. Buildings like the Edifici Planeta and the big housing estates from the 50s and 60s tell the story of a city that had to grow quickly.

Contemporary and cutting-edge
What really excites me, though, is how Barcelona isn’t afraid to take risks. Since the 1992 Olympics, the city has been adding bold and sometimes controversial projects: Torre Glòries, the Forum Building, Media-TIC, and, of course, the Hotel W on the seafront. Whether you love them or not, they definitely make a statement.

I have to admit, I’m personally a bit more conservative in my architectural tastes. Much like the Barcelonins at the turn of the last century, who weren’t exactly thrilled at first by buildings like Casa Milà—they even gave it the not-so-flattering nickname “La Pedrera,” literally “The Quarry,” because it looked rough and ugly next to the more refined buildings on Passeig de Gràcia. Now, of course, it’s an icon of the city. I guess with some of these more modern “inventions,” it just takes time for them to grow on you.

For me, that’s what makes Barcelona unique. You’ve got Roman ruins under a food market, Gothic churches around the corner from Modernista mansions, and futuristic towers rising over old neighbourhoods. It’s like the whole history of architecture, packed into one city you can explore on foot.

And yes, some European visitors might say, “We also have this sort of mix back home in my home city.” Probably you do… but the fact is, and allow me to brag, Barcelona has been an important city in the Mediterranean and Southern Europe for centuries, with its ups and downs over the years: from the height of its empire in the 12th to 15th centuries to a city defeated and conquered by the Spanish in the 17th century, to a cultural mecca in the 19th, and now the icon it is in the 21st. That long, unstoppable weight of history gives the city a character that’s hard to match, with a few exceptions, probably at the other historical imperial capitals of Europe.

One last tip: don’t just stick to the spots you find in the guidebooks (yep, even Rick Steves’ 😅). There’s sooo much more out there to discover—and usually with way fewer crowds!

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WOW! What superior information! I’m very grateful and will print this off and study it. Would love to do a concert! Thank you everyone! Best, J

Here's some drone photography of four Barcelona structures plus a basic geometry lesson on each.
1 La Sagrada Família
2 La Plaza de Toros Monumental de Barcelona
3 Torre Glòries
4 Casa Batlló
Barcelona Is Made of Math

The MNAC, mentioned by Enric, is a good art museum and worth visiting for that reason alone. However, it has two collections that set it apart from most art museums:

• A modernism collection that includes jewelry, decorative arts and furniture.

• A number of large, very old frescoes removed from churches in the Pyrenees.

The Ruta del Modernisme folks have published a very nice guidebook and accompanying map that would be useful to you. The map is especially nice for wandering around. It makes it easy to see whether there are interesting buildings between sites you plan to visit. When I bought the book and map in 2016, the very reasonably priced package came with a book of discount coupons. They would be difficult to use at the "name" Gaudi sites, because--as of 2016--the discounts could only be applied to tickets purchased on site. It's not worth standing in line for an hour or more (and maybe not getting in at all) in order to save a few euros. But it you decide to visit more obscure modernista buildings, the coupons will save a bit of money. The book has (small) photos, so it can be considered a souvenir. It's printed on nice paper, which might be considered unfortunate, because it's surprisingly heavy for a paper-bound book.

I looked into tickets at the Palau de la Musica for the time we are there. They are offering:
PIANO: Daniel Ligorio & Borja Espinosa—‘Granada 1920’ 25Euros, Apr 15

CHAMBER. Anna Puig, Guix, Le Beau, Cànovas and Hindemith, 15Euros, Apr 16

CHAMBER. María Dueñas & Alexander Malofeev—Schubert, Franck, Debussy and Ortiz
Performers: María Dueñas, violin and Aleksandr Malofeev, piano, 25 Euros, Apr 17
**Interesting note, we just saw Malofeev perform Tchaikovsky 3 days ago when he played with our own Oregon Symphony (USA)

ORGAN. Tribute to Montserrat Torrent—Centenary of her birth, 25Euros, Apr 18

I would be happy seeing any of these but I’m wondering if anyone of you has a recommendation? Particularly you Enric, since you live in Barcelona.

At the Palau de la Música Catalana you’ve got two totally different experiences:

• Guided tour: you walk around, they tell you the history, the meaning behind the mosaics and stained glass, the genius of Domènech i Montaner… It’s all about looking and learning. The place is empty and quiet, and it feels more like a museum visit.
• Concert: this is the real deal. The building was designed for music, and once the hall is alive with sound and people, the atmosphere changes completely. The acoustics, the lights, it’s the Palau as it was meant to be experienced. BUT... you only get to see part of the Palau, not all -like you would on a guided tour, and no one to tell you the story behind its nooks and crannies.

So, if you just want to see it, do the tour. If you want to feel it, go for a concert...

As for which performance to choose, well, it’s super personal and subjective. What feels magical to one person may leave another cold. Some folks get goosebumps with a symphony orchestra, others prefer choral music, or even a jazz night. It’s more about what moves you than about a “best” option. Also, there’s no fixed program. Dozens and dozens of international artists and ensembles play at the Palau every year. It’s impossible to know or keep up with all of them, so no one can really say “this one is the must-see.”

Just booked to see a show later this month. Very excited to see it as it was meant to be seen. Hope we do get to see a bit of the place but know it Will not be a tour.