I’ve just left Madrid’s newest museum, and thought I’d share my experience/review.
We bought tuned tickets the day before, and it was pretty empty when we arrived at 15:15. It’s not quite clear, but the entrance is at the far side of the Plaza de la Armaria—between the Royal Palace and the Cathedral.
The museum is a presentation of the monarchs’ collections of art and decorative objects as well as legacies of building. But it also serves as a museum of Spanish history via timelines of monarchy, which isn’t really told elsewhere. It’s a linear, chronological history from Catholic Monarchs uniting modern Spain in late 15th century to early 20th. Divided into the two dynasties by the two floors, you enter and ground level and go down a series of ramps for the Hapsburgs, down again for the Burbons. There are elevators.
At times it felt a bit… propagandist. At best, it just neglected to tell some of the more whole truths. I also recognize that I’m heavily influenced by my ardent republican (small R, Spanish definition), history buff boyfriend.
When we were there today it was nearly empty first, but filled up. The crowd was 99% Spanish—all Madridiño, I assume. (Because no Spaniard chooses to come to Madrid in late July—half the local themselves are gone.) I imagine it’ll take a while to get worked into the common tourist path.
We spent 3.5 hours, going at a “drink it all in” pace. It’s the only culture visit for me this trip, so I didn’t his ‘museum fatigue’.
We would have like to exit through the lowest level, into the gardens. But a design flaw meant we had to return to the entry level yo get my bag from the storage lockers. (A cross body that’s smaller than most purses, but I often get called out on it… because I’m a guy?) Anyway, we skipped the garden and stopped at a terraza for a vermouth on our way home.
The museum cafe isn’t open for business yet.