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Galicia Road Trip?

I've finally come to terms with the fact that an injury a month ago is derailing my plans to walk 100km of the Camino de Santiago in September. The sprained ankle should be well healed* by then, but I won't be fit & ready for the walk. That leaves me with 9-10 mid-September days to fill—starting and ending in Madrid.

Considering alternatives, I'm thinking of sticking to the plan of heading Northwest. Maybe train to Santiago de Compostela for a night or two, train to A Coruña for another couple nights, then a few days in a rental car for coastal/village exploration? Maybe I could even get as far as Leon or Salamanca to drop the car and take a train back to Madrid? (Driving all the way back to Madrid is not appealing.)

I'd love thoughts or insights from anyone who's toured the area.

*Ha! Get it? I crack myself up!

Posted by
6580 posts

The Sarria to Santiago leg of the Camino is busy with those day hikers who just want to say they walked the Camino for a few hours. The Camino is busy until about noon, then they all leave. I enjoyed the long walk.

Towns I enjoyed spending nights in in that area include Zamora, León, Lugo, and Santiago de Compostela. Towns that were fun to visit for a short visit, Astorga, Muxia, Betanzos, Ponferrada, Alto de Cebreiro/O’Cebreiro, and Santa María de Leboreiro. Towns with castles, Valencia de Don Juan, Arévalo, Coca, Medina Del Campo, Cuellar, and Portillo. Olmedo is known for all the storks. Cabo Ortegal is nice if the wild horses are there when you are. For a couple small religious sites, Alba de Tormes has the tomb of Teresa de Ávila and there’s the nice, small, church of San Salvador in Vilar de Donas. There’s also a Knights Templar built chapel in Ribadeo. West of Ribadeo is Cathedral Beach. It’s best seen at low tide. There are photo of many of the listed places on my website.

Edited: if you like Celtic ruins there is Castro de Santa Trega. It’s near Tui, off the beaten path. There is little else near it. The time we were there is was so foggy it was hard to see anything. We’re going back to see it again in September.

Posted by
3207 posts

I walked Sarria to Santiago in May during a period in which the forums were complaining about the crowds. We mostly walked without anyone in sight. We started out around 8:00 to 8:30 most days so the type A personalities were mostly ahead of us. In total I saw 2 big tour groups, which weren’t a problem. Walk right on past them or stop for a cafe con leche while they get ahead. It is a beautiful walk. There are some long hills but nothing like SJDP. If you were in reasonable shape prior to your sprained ankle I would think you can still do this, but just train on the trail for a few days by starting out with low mileage and building up. Walk as is comfortable and if you don’t quite make your daily stage you will still enjoy it. With 8 or 9 days to walk, you will likely finish but if not you still have an experience. Remember you have all day to walk to your next accommodation, there is no hurry. If you can’t finish a leg, this section is easy for calling a taxi to your accommodation if need be, you just won’t get a Compostela, but as a personal challenge with a healing ankle, how important is that really.? This would be your Camino and your challenge.

I will also add that there are many people on Camino forums who think their way is the only way. Look at history…there were many ways. It is like the 2 wheel vs 4 wheels vs backpack discussion on this forum. There is no correct answer.

You could also bike or ride a horse.

I would suggest you learn to use trekking poles correctly (most use them incorrectly) and plan to transport most of your stuff for at least a few days. Remember , it is not a race and it is your Camino. Other than leave no trace and be kind, there are no rules. Just do it!

Posted by
2267 posts

Sarria to Santiago was my plan—not so that I could "just say I'd walked the Camino", but because that's what fits in the amount of time I am able to carve out. Unfortunately, as I said, it's not going to happen this year and I'm pivoting to plan a tour of Galicia.

Posted by
3207 posts

Sorry, Shudder. I just wanted to make sure you weren't giving up too soon. Have a great trip!

Posted by
1 posts

Scudder,
I have been to Galicia 3 times times to visit friends, and I'm heading back in February.

In A Coruña you can visit the Hercules lighthouse, old town, the beach, city hall, the promenade, Mount of San Pedro Park, the old fort (San Antonio I think?). In Summer, I like to eat pimiento de padron. the grilled meats (churassco?) and you have to eat seafood and of course octopus while you are there. There is a market for the cruise ships there too. It has many locals in the evening.

Santiago de Compestello is a nice city. to visit as well. I found it inspiring watching people arrive to the cathedral.

The town of Muxía is on the coast, and if I remember correctly where the camino continues to. It was a cute little village. Seems like we stopped at a nature walk between Coruña and Muxía that led to a beach near Muxía that was stunning.

I know there is a holiday beach town (maybe Vigo?) if you like beaches.
Hope this helps!
Cynthia.

Posted by
2267 posts

Thanks, Cynthia.

I've ended up with a rough itinerary sketched out—the overnight towns at least.

Santiago de Compostela: 2 nights
A Coruña: 2 nights
Fisterra: 1 night
Pontevedra: 3 nights
Ourense: 2 nights

I'll pick up a car leaving A Couruña and return it in Ourense, taking trains from and back to Madrid. Except for the 30-minute train between Santiago and A Coruña, the 'travel' days will be meandering explorations—I've all day to make stops and wander while I cover routes that would be just 100-135km on the shortest path. I'll use that longer stay in Pontevedra as a base for exploring the Rias Baixas.

Posted by
6916 posts

This route you just outlined looks good to me!
From Fisterra to the south, make sure to drive along the coastal road through Muros, and consider stopping in Muros for a little bit. There are great views along the way, and Muros is very charming!

Posted by
2267 posts

balso- Muros wasn't on my radar, but it is on the route I was planning to drive. Thanks for the heads up!

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