Galicia - Costa Ártabra, Rias Baixas opinions, or then again... Asturias?

I´m a Bilbao local going to Galicia for 15 days this summer. Water temperature will be cold and there´s always risks of rain, you do not really go to the northern coast of Spain looking for the sun and the beaches, except to admire their natural beauty. We will stay in the area around Foz, Cedeira, Ortigueira...that is, the top most northernest part of Galicia. We are looking to explore nature, have great seafood meals and explore both the fishing villages and the inland ones. We want to avoid Santiago de Compostela and Rias Baixas, that will be packed and not of our interest. On the way back to Bilbao, we are stopping at Ourense, Lugo, Puebla de Sanabria and the area around Caldas de Luna, to return to Bilbao with a stop in Llanes to stay for three days with some friends at their home there.

There aren’t many wow historic sites in that area, but plenty of old small villages with plenty of charm and natural beauty. It isn’t on most people’s radar possibly because many locations are difficult to reach in a timely manner using public transportation. People who visit the more rural locations are probably those who travel to Spain often and have already experienced the large popular destinations. Lodging and restaurants in some of the small villages and hamlets will be limited, but the people are friendly, welcoming, and more than willing to engage in conversation. There will be few, if any, other tourists. Years ago I visited Cabo Ortegal and it’s out by itself. Other than the views we only saw wild horses while there. Ribadeo was fine and the nearby As Catedrais beach is very pretty. It is best seen if you can get there at low tide.

Ourense is a nice city and we loved Lugo (Roman wall) and Puebla de Sanabria (small castle and 12th century church) mentioned by Mikel. Betanzos was nice to walk around looking at the enclosed balconies.

We like to stay at Paradors when visiting Spain and there are a number of them in Galicia and Asturias. Many Paradors are in historic buildings. Once you have an idea where you intend to visit and the route you intend to take, research the small villages en route to see which have things of interest to you. Depending on how much time you have, you could visit both regions. Asturias isn’t that large.

For information only, the people in that area consider themselves Galician first, then Spanish. They all speak Gallego and Spanish.

I imagine I can help you some. Just an hour ago, we arrived at our hotel on Isla de la Toja, after three nights in Santiago. We will be in Galicia for three weeks, after spending a week here last spring, and a few days many years ago. I cannot post photos here but at the bottom of this post, I will link a short report I am writing on another travel forum; it has a lot of food content, as that is my big interest, but I've posted photos and description. I'll also post a thread I wrote after our trip to Galicia last May.

I am a swimmer. I cannot swim in the sea in Galicia, it's too cold for me. the beaches are among the most glorious in Spain, but to swim, I need (in this region) a heated pool. We have just checked into the GH LA Toja, on the Isla de la Toja, outside O"Grove, where we will stay for eight nights. Their outdoor pool is heated and there is an indoor thermal spa. This is one of the grand hotels of Spain, with a long history, but it is expensive. (We are seniors and all extra income is directed toward travel, mostly to Spain)

Galicia has gorgeous architecture but buildings are mostly composed of gray stone blocks...that sounds terrible but I think if you are an aficionado of architecture, you would find much to savor. "Green Spain" is an apt description of the landscape. On the drive from Santiago, the views of the tall trees shrouded in fog were delicious, but that is not what you are seeking for a relaxing summer vacation!

We spent two nights last year in Pontevedra, at the Parador. This is a beautiful, if gray in tone, city, with a vast pedestrian area and glorious indigenous architecture. Sanxenxo is a nearby beach resort but I have not heard great things, and have only stopped for a few minutes--in May last year. I do not think that is the place you are looking for but, again, I have no experience...

This year, after our spell in La Toxa, with forays to Cambados and to O"grove, we will drive to Padron, but this is a stop mainly to eat at a particular restaurant. From there---the Parador in Muxia for three nights before returning to the airport where we will return our rental car and fly to Madrid and then one to JFK.

If you are a swimmer, and focused on that, I would suggest a hotel with heated pool; I don't know of any except the one we are staying at right now.

We spent two-weeks plus in Asturias a few years back. The combination of mountains and sea within a 30-minute drive is exceptional. I was not there in summer, but I can tell you that the beaches I did see are some of the most beautiful in Europe. My dream would be to rent a place inland but within driving distance of one of the many, many lovely coastal towns, and beaches. Asturian food is among the best in Spain, only in my not-very-wide experience. I don't know about water temperature and, as I said, I am a swimmer, and iI think there would be nothing more wonderful than to decamp for a few weeks to a coastal town like Ribasedella, or one of the many, many other towns along the Asturian coast. I fear it's getting late to scoop out a great place to stay for this summer but again, I have not tried.... This is one of my dreams..summer on the Asturian coast. But whether or not the water is any warmer than it is here, I do not know.

I will not go on longer, but I will post my reports from the other site, and also leave you with the idea of, perhaps, looking into the Costa de la Luz, in Andalucia. I spend most of march in the area of Vejer de la Frontera/Zahara de los Atunes. I can swim (ion a heated pool) in early March, and friends have told me that the water off beaches like El Palmar de Vejer, Conil de la Frontera, Zahara de los Atunes----is bathtub warm in summer.....check out that area.
When I go, in March, I think I am the only American within driving distance (an exaggeration but partly true!!)

If any of these are helpful to you, I can tell you more....
By the way, today is 13 June and it is cloudy and a little cool outside..

But we are very excited about dinner tonight--a seafood feast at D'Berto in O"Grove. If you all love shellfish,Galicia, and Asturias, are paradise. And the meat is astonishingly great as well...

https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/galicia-in-june-four-bases-in-nineteen-days-1731392/

https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/galicia-a-week-in-may-three-destinations-1722627/

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/galicia-spain-1-week-may-2024/38978/70

I appreciate all of the responses. Perhaps I will stick with my original plan: fly into O Coruna and go directly to Betanzos for their medieval fair, then the following day to Ortigueira for the Celtic music festival, then one day driving around the Costa Artabra for the views. (I hate to change hotels after one night, but we're only going to Betanzos so we don't have to drive far after the overnight flight, and the medieval fair looks fun.) Then we thought we'd drive down to the Pontevedra area to relax for a few days, most likely staying near Cambados, and visit Santiago de C for a day. Or, perhaps we'll drive south via Lugo and Ribeira Sacra to see some monasteries, and spend a few hours at the baths in Ourense. (My husband likes to drive and see as much of an area as possible, while I prefer to stay in one place and get to know it well, so we try to do a little of both. Any day that we spend driving more than an hour will be mostly lost because we never wake up early enough to be on the road before 11.) After those first few days of the festivals, I really cannot decide between driving south in Galicia or driving east to Asturias to see Oviedo, Lastres, Picos de Europa. Another factor making planning difficult is that we must begin and end near airports because we will be there from Saturday to Saturday/Sunday, and the only rental car offices that are open for pick-up and drop-off are at the airports.
Ekscrunchy, we definitely do NOT want to go to Andalucia outside of October-April! The only decision is between Galicia and Asturias.

The costa Ártabra - I didn't even know the name! - is breathtaking! I visited for the day in the summer of '22 and greatly enjoyed lunch and walking around in Santo André de Teixido and the views from Vixia Herbeira, despite the howling wind up there.

I stayed well clear of Ortigueira due to lack of interest in the festival and stayed at hotel Ego near Viveiro instead. Good beach nearby, warm enough for dipping but not swimming. Viveiro itself had good restaurants and is quite pretty, but it seems like it has seen better days.

As for the rest of your journey: I'd definitely go east! The Asturian coast is very beautiful, with lots of cute places to stay in the area between Luarca and Cudillero, and some good beaches with warmer water.
Better beaches still east of Lastres as you go towards Ribadesella and Llanes - towns that I visited so long ago that they kind of blur together, but in a good way.

Once you're there, you're very close to Picos de Europa, and once in the Picos de Europa, I'd consider driving the remaining 4.5 hours to Madrid for convenience.

Agree that Hotel Ego is a great place to spend a few days, with beautiful beaches nearby, but the waters would probably be too cold, for me, any time of the year.

I did swim in early October at La Concha beach is San Sebastián, so maybe the waters in Pais Vasco are warmer than those further west.....

The north coast has some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, in my opinion, but it's the water temps that stop me from panning a long stay in summer..

I'll response to the message soon....

Ekscrunchy, "sirimiri" rain today in the Basque Country (that is, constant drizzle) and kind of cold, in the 50s and low 60s, so water temperature will be around that temperature. But quite nice in summer, near 70s, excellent if you have a headache...or a hangover!!

I may need your expert advice on the northern coast of Galicia before going there this summer!

I did swim in early October at La Concha beach is San Sebastián, so maybe the waters in Pais Vasco are warmer than those further west...

They are indeed much warmer. In general on this coast, the further east you go, the warmer the water. 21-22C is normal in July-August in Biarritz, and 23C is not unheard-of, whereas you'd be lucky with 18C around Cape Finisterre (I did manage to swim in Carnota, though!).

Just updating this to say that, yesterday, we drove to the coast for lunch, near O"Grove and I saw some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, with clear turquoise water..... they were in the area of San Vicente do Mar.

Temperatures here are in the mid 80sF today, with predicted higher tomorrow, and full sun. There were many people wading in the sea, and a few actually swimming. at low tide, you need to walk far out to be able to swim.
Water temperatures in the low 60s, or around 17c. I am happy that our hotel has a heated, large pool.

This is a scenically glorious part of Spain, with some pretty fantastic seafood on offer. ( guess I could say that about most of Spain, however!)

I don't think I've heard a word of English spoken by obvious tourists since living Santiago de Compostela, although the level of English spoken by locals in this area of Galicia is very, very high. I know there were anti-tourists demonstrations in a few Spanish destinations but none of that in this region that we are aware of....

Thank you for the update, ekscrunchy! Thank you to everyone for the responses. I showed my family our options and we have decided to see more of the north coast, traveling from A Coruña north to San Andres de Teixido, Ortigueira, Viveiro and then east to Asturias, where we can visit a friend and see the mountains. Rias Baixas will have to wait for another trip.

We may coincide, madlori, I´m going to that area at the end of July for 15 days (driving from Bilbao). We are staying at Foz one night, Cedeira for 5 nights, then Lugo for two nights, Puebla de Sanabria two nights, Caldas de Luna one night on our way to stay with friends at Llanes, and then back to Bilbao. I´ve postponed this trip three times...hope this one is for the best!

Buen viaje....I wish I could remain in this region for the entire summer..... es mis suenos...

I can’t speak to Galicia but I did spend time in Asturias (coast and Los Picos) and Cantabria. I loved this area for the hiking and beaches (but didn’t swim) and cave paintings. But are you talking about THIS July? This is when their high season starts and it might be a little more difficult to find places. Point being is you should decide quickly where to go.

I don’t think I’d count on this area for “impressive old architecture” though, not the kind you get down south. There are some interesting sites, including a Gaudi-designed home in Comillas, but I though nature was the bigger draw.

Agree. The compelling architecture, for me, is more in the rural areas of both those regions,
But cities like Pontevedra, Santiago and A Coruna do entrance with their beautiful gray-stone-block structures, the horrerors (see link, below, ) the stone walls crafted without obvious mortar and the glassed-in balconies ( to repell the many rains) that you do not see much in southern regions.....

But speaking of architecture, I think there might be nowhere where this is as glorious, to my taste, as in the villages of Old Castille--places like Pedraza de la Sierra and Sepulveda......not more than an hour from the Spanish capital but probably not discusses in the RS guides...... One of my favorite short visits to Spain, years ago, included two nights in the tiny town of Pedraza.....in the province of Segovia. For food lovers, this is one of the hearts of lechazo territory, the roast suckling lamb that is the signature dish of the area.

Maybe you might say that the architecture here (I am on La Isla de la Toxa, near O"Grove, right now, on a 3-week visit to the provinces of A Coruna and Pontevedra) is more handsome than it is enchanting, if you venture to make a comparison to those white cities and towns in Andalucia.... But oh my, the profusion of flowering plants including those glorious deep-blue hydrangea, against the grey stone walls, with the crystalline seas beyond.....I can't say more than just: "WOW!!"

And in more than a week, we have met exactly two persons from the US, in a restaurant in Santiago. Why do so many travelers stick to the heavily-trod tourist track and ignore the riches just off that beaten path???? And in Galician, especially, I am surprised at how many people, not only in the tourism sector, speak English well. Much more so, for example than in Andalucia (I have no experience of the Costa del Sol, though, apart from the city of Malaga)

Among the reasons that I keep returning to Spain (besides the food and the most welcoming people!!) is the vast variety between different regions in a fairly short geographical distance....

In Galicia today I almost feel as if I am in a different country than I was when I stayed in Valencia and Denia last winter, and different, again that I feel around Jerez/Sevilla and Vejer during my annual March visits...

https://www.turismo.gal/que-visitar/destacados/horreos-pazos-e-cruceiros/horreos?langId=es_ES

So sorry to blather on and on...it's obvious that this New Yorker is entranced by Spain.

Why do so many travelers stick to the heavily-trod tourist track and
ignore the riches just off that beaten path??

My guess is most travelers don’t frequently return to Spain multiple times, but more importantly, don’t rent vehicles. As you are well aware, many of those off the beaten path location are not well served by public transportation.

Among the reasons that I keep returning to Spain (besides the food and the most welcoming people!!) is the vast variety between different regions in a fairly short geographical distance....

And yet, as a Basque local, almost every visitor expects what we do not have in many areas of Spain: tapas, sun, flamenco and sangría (a drink, by the way, that is very rarely drunk in Spain by locals). The image of Spain as a homogeneous country, being just the opposite, is predominant in other countries. But I think that´s what´s been "sold" as a image of Spain...

Even sweets and cakes are different from town to town...:)

I will admit that, as much as I love Tarta de Santiago, Pastel Vasco (with the cherry mermelada) is even better!
And I've just become acquainted with the pastries of Medina Sidonia....
I think I ought to write a guide, well researched personally, of course, to the various sweets of Spain.

Mikel, the other night in Santiago, I tried the most astounding cider from your region; this is the name:
ZAPIAIN Bixi-Goxo.

That´s a very special cider, as it´s "ice cider", made from very ripe and late apples. More a cider for dessert than for a normal meal. By the way, for those that do not know, Basque and Asturian cider is natural, not carbonated, and it only has the sweetness of the type of apples it´s made of. Very refreshing. Between 5% and 6% alcohol content.

Thanks, Mikel! That cider was one for me the best drinks I've ever sampled!
I knew it was more of a desert wine but I asked to begin with something sweet and that is what they recommended; the restaurant was terrific: SIMPAR in Santiago.

SIMPAR, meaning "no other like it"!! (with no pair)