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Fine-tuning for Andalucia

My young adult daughter and I are heading to Andalucia in March and I have a few questions I hope someone can answer. We have 4 nights in Seville (3 1/2 days); 1 night in Córdoba (split with evening one day and morning the next for sights); and 3 nights in Granada (2 full days). Then back to Madrid for a night before flying home (we got some of those really cheap tickets that make this arrangement worthwhile - lol).

  1. First question: our flight arrives in Madrid at 3:30pm on a Saturday (arriving from Frankfurt on Lufthansa). We plan to head straight to Seville. Although our March date is not yet up, I am looking at the equivalent in Feb. There looks to be a 6:00pm and an 8:35pm train. I see nothing in between. I would love to make the 6:00 but don't feel confident buying it, because of the timing. But also hate to buy the 8:35 in case we CAN make the 6:00. But also don't want to miss getting a seat on the 8:35 because I did nothing. Do any of you experienced Madrid travelers have perspective and advice? Could I hope to get even a more expensive seat on one of those two trains at the last minute? Saving time is probably higher priority than saving money on this choice.
  2. From Seville, we will take a day trip to Jerez for the horse show. Have made our reservation, but it DOES say we have to arrive between 9:30 and 11:00am to collect our tickets. This is an hour before the show at noon and means a somewhat early departure from Seville. Is there a way to print ahead or is there something interesting to see in the meantime?
  3. From Jerez: We aren't really interested in a sherry tour but my daughter would like to visit the beach instead. Looks like we can take the train on down to Cadiz and walk or bus to a beach. Does anyone have advice on a particular beach for any reason? The main beaches seem to be free (with variety in services offered). Does this sound right? Even a few hours there are worth it for her and we can catch a train back to Seville in the late evening.
  4. Granada: we have morning Alhambra tickets with a 10:00 Nasrid entrance. If we have our tickets already printed and are at the Justice Gate at 8:30, will we have time to go through either the Alcazaba or King Charles palace first? If so, is there a recommendation on which one? And if we make a stop for lunch, will we be able to enter the Generalife Gardens after 2:00 (looks like "no"). I just want to be sure!
  5. Has anyone attended a weekday mass at the Mezquita? I was wondering whether or not they use the organ for those weekday services (as opposed to only Sunday).

Thank you!

Posted by
2768 posts

1 I'd buy the 8:45 ahead of time. Worst case is you are too late for the 6 and the late one is sold out! If you buy ahead it will be cheap. If you wanted you could buy a ticket on the 6 too (but I wouldn't!)

4 Justice gate is best. You should print your ticket the day before at Corral de Carbon in town and then you are good. You will have time for one of the others. It's a matter of opinion which. I would go Alcazar because it gets more crowded later. Plus it is ticketed - you can't go after your time slot. Charles V is not tied to your ticket so you can go see it after 2 if you are rushed for time!
I think you have to be inside the ticketed area by 2, including Generalife.

Posted by
4055 posts

Thanks, Mira! I totally missed that Charles V was not part of the ticketed area. So seeing the Alcazaba first makes the most sense.

Posted by
391 posts

I skipped Madrid entirely, and made Seville my arrival and departure point. Check my posts in this thread.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/spain/12-nights-in-andalusia-how-to-allocate

I entered the Nasrid Palaces at 8:30, and so did some tour groups. By 9:30, I had to squeeze through some room entrances blocked by the crowds. Only to find the rooms full of people and the guides speaking in multiple languages. Almost impossible to take photos without including people in them. For lunch, there were vending machines with snacks and sandwiches. Wish I had packed my own.

Check my post in this thread.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/spain/bus-from-malaga-to-granada

Posted by
4055 posts

Thanks, staynsavor! I had actually read through your post earlier today (the links were great!). It does sound like we should plan to take some lunch/snacks with us when we visit the Alhambra.

We got some of those great ticket prices that made it worth the inconvenience of flying in and out of Madrid - I had been watching flying into Seville but flight times and prices just wouldn't work this time.

And reading through the other thread answered part of my question about timing in Jerez.

I am slowly feeling like it is all coming together!

Posted by
15576 posts
  1. I would watch the fares by checking on Saturday mornings (that would be about 4-5 pm in Spain) to see what is available "last minute." If you see that there are "turista" fares available for both trains consistently . . . but if you see they they sell out . . . well, you know where I'm going. You may find that only "preferente" tickets are available consistently, then the difference is considerable.

  2. I think the show sells out (it was sold out or close to it when I visited in February). There will be a line to pick up tickets so you should plan to be there as early as you can. The campus of the school is worth a walk around and I believe you can visit the paddocks and see the horses up close as they are prepared for the show (I barely made it into my seat before the performance). There's also a shop you can browse. And look for nesting storks. There were already there when I visited.

  3. I can't imagine what you're going to do on the beach for several hours in Cadiz in March!!! From the Cadiz train station, it's a short walk to the historic center (and a TI). If you want to sightsee in Cadiz, do it. Or you could take a bus to Arcos for a half-day, then back to Jerez and train to Sevilla, or just go back to Sevilla after the show.

  4. You'll have time to visit the Alcazaba (an hour is plenty if I remember correctly). I would try to see the King Charles palace then as well, so you don't have to walk back there later, but I wouldn't rush through anything else for it. And frankly it's not what you're going to the Alhambra for. BTW you have until 10.30 to enter the Nasrid, but don't cut it too closely. If there's a line that's not moving when you get there after 10.00, those are people waiting for the 10.30 entry. Go directly to the front of the line and you can go in. You will have to enter the Generalife buildings before 2.00. I don't remember if part of the gardens are ticketed, but certainly there are parts that aren't.

  5. I went to the Mezquita during the free pre-mass hour on a Tuesday and there was organ music almost the entire time, but I did not stay for mass.

Posted by
513 posts

Travelmom,

I think you are trying to cram way too much into a single day. Taking a daytrip to Jerez from Seville (easy enough on its own) and then going on to Cadiz for a beach excursion before returning to Seville is a bit much. Also keep in mind, Cadiz is on the Atlantic and its beaches, therefore, are not particularly "swim-able" in March.

Posted by
4055 posts

Ah, Chani and Jack, I was hoping you would chime in! Along with Priscilla, I have already gleaned a lot of information from other posts you have made!

Jack, you are absolutely right that will be an almost too full day. We may play that one by ear, according to weather. I would certainly not dip into the Atlantic in March (OK, maybe my toes just to know I had done it); but on a sunny day, you never know about younger blood than mine. :) And I CAN imagine sitting in a cafe with a beach view for a while.

Chani, thank you for all the details! Walking around the school and paddocks in Jerez would be perfect. I just couldn't picture the setting. I was not able to schedule us in Córdoba on a performance day, so am really glad this is working out. Looks like it is the 8:30ish train from Seville for us!

Good tips on the Alhambra. We can make it work. I think we'll use staynsavor's idea about taking something with us to snack on and times should be fine if we skip a "sit-down" lunch somewhere. We don't have anything else on the plan for that day (but other options if desired).

Ah, train. I will keep watching the schedule - good reminder than I am way ahead on this. Apparently on Sat. evening, there are 2 fewer evening trains leaving Atocha than on weekdays. And of course they are the 2 time slots I would most like to have! I read Julie's trip report about only preferente being available by the time they arrived and overhearing that some ladies going to Malaga had to wait till the next day..... :)

Thank you!

Posted by
8035 posts

My recollection of the Generalife is that there are several ticketed points within the gardens and they all have to be reached by 2 -- it is pretty wonderful and I would make it a priority. Get to the other part of the Alhambra first and do all your touring there before your appointment for the Nasrid being ready to go on time and then afterwards book it over to the Generalife. I thought the Alcazaba was a bit of a bust, but since it is ticketed, perhaps do that first then the Nasrid then race for the Generalife -- after that you can stroll around unticketed areas.

Posted by
391 posts

I think we'll use staynsavor's idea about taking something with us to snack on and times should be fine if we skip a "sit-down" lunch somewhere. We don't have anything else on the plan for that day (but other options if desired).

I'm unaware of any "sit-down" lunch place in the Alhambra. Had I packed my lunch, I would not have to make a detour to the vending machines. I was only able to locate two bathrooms during my 5+ hours visit. One was in the building with the vending machines, the other was in the Generalife Gardens (sorry, can't recall the exact location).

If time permits or so desired, take the C1 bus and get off at the Mirador de San Nicolas stop. That's where these panoramic shots of the Alhambra were taken, typically at sunset when the buildings were lit up.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Mirador+de+San+Nicolas&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiAhI-l-pnRAhUn7YMKHWlIAuUQ_AUICSgC&biw=1920&bih=1053

Purchase one of these travel cards for the minibuses, for reduced fares and no need to deal with changes. Right on the bus for 2 euros, and load up with 5 euros. Return the card and get 2 euros refund. Unsure if one card is good for multiple people.

http://www.lovegranada.com/transport/granada-bus-fares/

Cordoba's Mezquita was my favorite, hands down. But Cordoba was not on your itinerary, perhaps you meant another one?

Posted by
4055 posts

staynsavor, what I read made it sound like the travel cards could be used for at least 2 people - making it a really good option for us. We are staying in an apartment just off Carro deal Darro, so if my legs give out completely, I can grab a minibus partway there, as well. :) We have riding up to the Mirador del San Nicolas in our plan - your photos are beautiful! My daughter will be entranced by the music there, as well. :) Did you eat in that area?

For eating at the Alhambra, I remember Rick's reference to the Paradour - but I bet it is not exactly onsite and I was reading it wrong. We will be sure to take a lunch! (And always carry water).

Oh, yes, we are spending one night in Córdoba between Seville and Granada, arriving in the afternoon of one day and leaving in the afternoon of the next day. So definitely visiting the Mezquita there! We are not Catholic but ARE musical and I came across a YouTube clip of organ music while someone was visiting - which I had not seen mentioned anywhere here and thought it might be an easy way to hear something like that.

Posted by
5202 posts

Travelmom,
You've received great advice from Mira, Staynsavor, Chani, Jack & Janet,

I will only address some of your questions/concerns.

  1. It looks like the last train traveling Madrid to Sevilla (on Saturdays) departs at 18:00 (6pm), so if your plane is on time &
    if you're traveling with carry-on only, you should be a able to take it... Having said this; what if your plane is delayed,or there
    are long lines in passport control, or you have checked baggage? I see that there are more (later) trains traveling Madrid >Córdoba (this was the first city we visited after landing in Madrid). You may consider switching your itinerary a bit, if possible.
    This change would only involve spending your first night in Córdoba, instead of Sevilla. You can easily travel to Granada (via bus or train) from Sevilla. We traveled in reverse, Granada to Sevilla, on the ALSA Bus.

  2. I've not traveled to Jerez de la Frontera (although had considered it, but we ended up watching the equestrian show at the Royal Stables in Córdoba)

  3. See #2.

  4. The Alhambra... As Chani & others have explained, you must enter the Generalife Palace area before 2pm, but then you can stay as long as you'd like.
    We did not visit the Alcazaba (my 88 y.o. mom opted to see the Generalife instead--lots of walking) & we visited the Carlos V Palace on a different day (free entrance). The Generalife is huge, so check the map so you won't miss getting to the Generalife Palace before 2pm. We had afternoon tickets, so we didn't eat at the Alhambra, but there are a couple of places to eat at the Alhambra Complex: The restaurant at the Parador de Granada (expensive) & the one at Hotel America (hotels within the Alhambra Citadel).
    I don't know how crowded these restaurants may be, so I think it's a good idea to eat a hearty breakfast, bring water & snacks, and plan to eat after your visit.

  5. My mom & I attended the Sunday mass at the Mezquita, but don't know if the organ is played during the week.

  6. Definitely go to the San Nicolás Mirador for great photos of the

    Alhambra at Sunset. The Mirador was very crowded when we were
    there, so we took RS advice & walked to the mosque, on the right
    side of the mirador (with back to Alhambra). We enjoyed a nice
    meal at the 'Huerto de San Juan Ranas', ( restaurant across
    from the Mirador), where we sat on the terrace (outdoor bar
    area) & took amazing photos! Try their creamy cheesecake with
    raspberry syrup... Yum!

Regarding Staynsavor's comment:

Purchase one of these travel cards for the minibuses, for reduced fares and no need to deal with changes. Right on the bus for 2 euros, and load up with 5 euros. Return the card and get 2 euros refund. Unsure if one card is good for multiple people.

  • We purchased the Granada travel card & it can definitely be used by
    multiple persons in your group. The regular ticket costs €1,20, but
    only €0,79 with the card. Check the link given by Staynsavor for
    more details.

  • When in you're in Sevilla, make sure to visit Triana, especially if
    you want to buy some beautiful ceramics at Ceramicá Santa Ana.

Have a wonderful trip!

Edit to add...
Travelmom, I took a long time writing this post ( during breaks between doing laundry & putting Christmas stuff away), so I didn't know you had written your last post.

Do you have RS Spain book?

Posted by
391 posts

We have riding up to the Mirador del San Nicolas in our plan - your photos are beautiful! My daughter will be entranced by the music there, as well. :) Did you eat in that area?

Those were not my photos. The few musicians there would expect donations. I did not dine there.

Why was Cordoba's Mezquita my favorite? Because it was free admission and without hordes of tour groups!!! Between 8:30 to 9:30, Mon thru Sat, admission is free and no tour groups allowed. What a fantastic policy!

But an hour was not enough. So I went twice.

Posted by
4055 posts

staynsavor, oh now I am embarrassed that I missed the obvious "Google images" at the top of the page.... :) All I can say is I was reading, writing, and packing at the same time. (:

Priscilla, thank you for all the information! I have read at least twice the information you previously shared with other people. For the train, I am also seeing an 8:35 and a 9:25 on a Saturday, but catching the 6:00 would be much better. I can easily travel "carry-on" - maybe I can persuade my daughter. :) I guess we'll wait and see. However I had not even thought to look at Madrid-Córdoba. It's definitely worth checking into! Granada has to be last (because night entry to the Alhambra is only on Fri-Sat and tickets are booked) but we could do Córdoba-Seville-Granada. And it also didn't even occur to me that we could actually go back to the free parts of the Alhambra at a different time. Whether or not we NEED to do that, just having that in mind makes it all feel much more relaxed!

And Granada travel card it will be!

I do have Rick's Snapshot of Sevilla, Granada, & Southern Spain and have read it 3 times, probably, although not always in order. :) I start with his book before every trip!

Posted by
5202 posts

Travelmom,
You're right about the later trains available on Saturdays.

It's so strange... When I checked the Renfe website yesterday (before replying to your post), the 6pm train was the last one listed on Saturdays ( I checked all the Saturdays in February, since it's too early to book for March)

So you should be safe to take the one departing at 8:25pm.
{We didn't buy our train tickets for day of arrival because one never knows about unforeseen delays}

How are you getting to Atocha's station from the airport?
We took the C-1 Cercanias (commuter train) from Terminal 4 & it was very easy.

Puerta de Atocha's train station is huge, & I found it a bit confusing, perhaps because I was so exhausted from the
overnight flight & suffering from jet-lag.

If you need to get a SIM card for your phone, you can get it at the Atocha station. Let me know if you need any further information.

Enjoy!

Posted by
4055 posts

For anyone in the future researching the order of travel, I followed Priscilla's excellent suggestion to switch my itinerary a bit. Because 1) our flight is late afternoon arriving in Madrid; 2) Seville is an extra hour by train; and 3) there was an additional Saturday train to Córdoba at 7:30pm ( as opposed to only 6:00 and 8:30 to Seville -- and this seemed to be a "Saturday" thing), it made sense to visit Córdoba first. I had read earlier forum advice about starting in Seville first - but this will fit together much better!