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Finalizing our Catalonia trip Dec 16th-30

This is my second trip to the Catalonia region. It is my husband’s first trip to Spain. I love being out in nature and lots of natural sites, and am a foodie. I am not that much of a museum person, but enjoy smaller ones with unique offerings. At this stage of planning, most of where I would love recommendations are for restaurants. We do not have a rental car. I’m staying away from events that would have big crowds with all this latest variant stuff happening so I had to exclude a few things that might have been super fun (like soccer). Guess that will be for another trip!

With that said, here is my current itinerary:
Dec 15th- 16th- Travel from MSP->JFK and Land in Barcelona, take the AVE train to Girona. Take a nap (or not) depends on sleep on flight. Head to Zanpanzar for Tapas, or find a similar Tapas place if they are not open.

Dec 17th: Walking tour of Girona with a guide. Extra time in Jewish Quarter and exploring the city.

Dec 18th: Private tour of Costa Brava. This day is our anniversary. Would love help with a local restaurant in Girona that we could make evening reservations. Any suggestions?

Dec 19th: Taking the train back through Barcelona and on to Penedes. This is primarily a travel day for us. If we arrive early enough, we will attend the Rooster Fair. https://www.turismevilafranca.com/en/agenda/fira-del-gall-rooster-fair

Dec 20th-21st: This has been one of the hardest parts of the trip to research. Most local businesses haven’t responded to our questions, and the tourism board basically just says look at our website. So this part will be a bit of an adventure. I think this will be easy to figure out on the ground, just harder to sort out from Minnesota. ;o)
For these two days, we will do walking tours in Penedes and countryside. From our research, we should be able to having tastings both in town at different places, and walk to different vineyards. We found a series of Tapas and tastings we will try out.
We will also go to the Wine museum in Penedes.

Dec 22nd: Train back to Barcelona. Visit to Montjuic Castle and botanical gardens. Early evening Tapas tour with a local guide (I seriously love food tours).

Dec 23rd: Tickets booked for Sagrada Familia. Afterwards go to the Christmas market nearby for some churros and hot chocolate, and hopefully some fresh roasted chestnuts.

Old tour by night tour- walking tour of the Gothic Quarter and Jewish Quarter.

Dec 24th: Tour of La Boquería and cooking class with a chef. Some shopping at La Boqueria as well. Pick up goodies for the holidays to have back at our AirBnb.
Palau de la Música in the evening for a Flamenco performance. This is going to be fabulous! ;o)

Dec 25: Tickets booked for Park Guell. Walk La Ramblas and enjoy a quiet day.

Dec 26th: Tickets booked to Visit Montserrat.

Dec 27th: Open day. Maybe Casa Batlo? Or should we go somewhere else?

Dec 28th: Visit Chocolate museum and enjoy shopping for the day. Late afternoon Barcelona Medieval Secrets walking tour.

Dec 29th: get those pesky Covid return tests done (we are doing eMed and BinaxNow tests- already got the tests). This day is my birthday, so we have booked going to Aire Barcelona for thermal baths and massages.

Also going to Rocambolesc for a hot ice cream sandwich.

I’m looking for a bit of help finding something low key for the evening. I love Tapas and simple tasty food. I don’t want something super duper fancy for this evening. Given that parameter, where would you go? I also don’t want to be out late, as we have a 6:00 am flight to come back home the next morning. I know, I know- I’m high maintenance. ;o)

Thank you so much for everyone that has helped me iterate and plan this trip. It’s been a number of months in the making, and we are in the final stretch! I also plan to blog about it and share trip reports for those traveling vicariously through others.

Posted by
28084 posts

Since you mentioned enjoying small, unusual museums, I want to point out a couple of interesting collections inside MNAC. MNAC (on Montjuic) is quite large. Much of it is a traditional art museum, but it has a modernism collection with jewelry, furniture and decorative art. It also has very impressive, large medieval frescoes rescued from old churches in the Pyrenees.

If you are concerned about crowds, I'm not sure you'll be comfortable in Casa Batllo--though perhaps the number of tickets sold for each entry time is much reduced due to COVID. During my 2016 visit Casa Batllo and the Picasso Museum were the most crowded indoor venues I experienced. Casa Mila/La Pedrera was marginally less packed than Casa Batllo, but I wouldn't visit it under similar conditions right now, either. (But I'm 70 years old.) Both of the casas have potential pinch points as you go through them; they are not like visiting a museum with one large room leading into another large room.

You might consider instead the Sant Pau modernista site, which was not the slightest bit crowded on either of my visits (most recently in 2019). I was able to walk right up to the ticket counter, buy a ticket and enter. It's wonderful to have an option like that in Barcelona, which has a large number of sights that must be planned ahead of time because of the length of their ticket lines. Sant Pau is a multi-building complex on attractive grounds. It's located beyond La Sagrada Familia. It would be nicest on a non-rainy day.

There is no reason, in my view, to make a point of walking the Ramblas. Maybe 20 or 30 years ago. Now it's a crowded street favored by pickpockets. You'll see bits of it during your other sightseeing. I'd consider walking around Gracia instead. Gracia's the neighborhood south of Parc Guell.

A food-shopping suggestion: Although I tend to think of paprika as a Hungarian spice, it's a big deal in Spain, too. I've really enjoyed a tin of smoked paprika I brought home. I use it to make smoky pimento cheese spread, but it has many other uses. It can be purchased inexpensively at any supermarket, I assume. Of course, you can also buy smoked paprika (not necessarily Spanish) at Trader Joe's these days. But I think of Spain every time I pull that paprika out of my cabinet.

Posted by
4180 posts

Looks like a very in-depth and well researched itinerary! Some answers to your queries plus things you should note:

I love being out in nature and lots of natural sites

I don't see much of nature activates on your itinerary, mainly big city/urban sites. If you're feeling adventurous, the snow in Spain has been pretty good this year, you could consider a few days skiing in our pristine Catalan Pyrenees mountains, there are several ski resorts just north of Girona (Masella and La Molina come to mind). An experience not many foreigners even know about or get to enjoy.

This day is our anniversary. Would love help with a local restaurant in Girona that we could make evening reservations.

Well, arguably the best restaurant in Spain is actually located in Girona, called El Celler de Can Roca, a true culinary pilgrimage for any foodie! Headed by the famed Roca bros. If you are looking for a more traditional establishment, I can recommend Casa Marieta, on the Plaça de la Independencia in Girona. It's a venerable establishment with more than 100 years of history serving the traditional Catalan cuisine.

Tickets booked for Sagrada Familia. Afterwards go to the Christmas market nearby for some churros and hot chocolate, and hopefully some fresh roasted chestnuts.

Don't forget to also visit Santa Llúcia Christmas market, right in front of the main cathedral, it's the oldest one in the city from the 1700s. The biggest draws are its nativity scenes and the Tió de Nadal figures (which is a rather interesting Catalan tradition we have).

For good hot chocolate in Barcelona, while you can't go wrong with Chocolatería Valor, Churrería Laietana is the best, but you can try both!

Some shopping at La Boqueria as well. Pick up goodies for the holidays to have back at our AirBnb.

Most restaurants and even shops are closed on Christmas Eve (24) in Spain. Christmas Eve is a very familiar time for us, spent in one's house with the family. Even in big cities, it is almost impossible to find Spanish restaurants open on Christmas Eve. Definitely reserve a table in advance for Christmas day (25) can be quite busy that day.

I’m looking for a bit of help finding something low key for the evening. I love Tapas and simple tasty food. I don’t want something super duper fancy for this evening. Given that parameter, where would you go?

If tapas is what you are after, my favourite tapas bar is Bar Celta Pulperia, in El Born. It's a Galician style seafood tapas bar that specializes in Galician Octopus (Pulpo a la Gallega). Another specialty is their Pimientos de Padron, which are apparently one of Rick Steves' favorite tapas (mine too!). They are sauteed green peppers that are usually mild, but every so often you get a spicy pepper. Bar Celta is a little more old school than the newer tapas bars, but it is still pretty popular with locals.

You could consider checking out some of the more trendy Tapas bars in the nearby Poble Sec neighborhood, like Quimet & Quimet.

If a more considerable meal you are after, I can recommend Barceloneta, a more upscale establishment with a great view of the harbor front, local seafood themed menu with some of the best Paella and Fideua in Barcelona.

A more out of the box recommendation for your Birthday, I would be head over to the charming Vila de Gràcia neighborhood. It feels very cozy and welcoming, with many young families out and about. Gràcia used be its own distinct town, before being incorporated into Barcelona in the late 19th century, so it still retains its own small town feel and charm. For food in the area, there are many great Italian restaurants and Pizza shops here, due immigration here by young Italian families. You will find an eclectic assortment of restaurants here, due to the bohemian culture of the area.

Hope this all helps! :)

Posted by
99 posts

Thank you both Acraven and Carlos. These give me lots of ideas and little tweaks to make. This is really looking like it will be an Epic trip! ;o)

In addition to the research, the mention of the closed restaurants gave me the most wonderful idea. I'm definitely moving my shopping up a bit since there is risk that things are already closed on the 24th. I have been looking for an excuse to make an epic charcuterie platter that we can munch on Christmas day and the day after. I now have the perfect excuse to shop for Spanish hams, cheeses, olives, etc. This possibility has me endlessly excited (yes, I love charcuterie that much).

Thank you again for these wonderful ideas!

Posted by
4180 posts

I'm definitely moving my shopping up a bit since there is risk that things are already closed on the 24th. I have been looking for an excuse to make an epic charcuterie platter that we can munch on Christmas day and the day after.

Good idea! For charcuterie, what we call "Embutidos" in Spain, I'd recommend the underground food market beneath the Corte Inglés on the Plaça de Catalunya. The market covers all your charcuterie needs, salchichón, jamon iberico, fuet de Vic (my favourite), chorizo, sobrasada, various cheeses, and wine from all over Spain.

While at the Corte Inglés, make sure to pick the traditional Spanish Christmas delicacy Turron – a nougat-like sweet usually mixed in with toasted almonds or even chocolate. yum!