Feedback on our Sept trip to Barcelona and Basque Country

Do you have parking at your place in SS? It would not be my favorite place to drive in and out of every day, but there are indeed many charming villages in the vicinity. What's on your agenda?

Hi WisconsinCouple,

just a suggestion for the "other villiages" is to take a drive up to the Baztan Valley. Very scenic, and there are several little villages to visit.

Balboa?? Do you mean to Bilbao which is a Basque city in Spain?
We had a car and wanted to easily explore both the Spanish and French Basque regions so we stayed on the Spanish/ French border in Hondarribia, Spain, a 20 minute drive from San Sebastián.

I would only pick up the rental car on the 25th, when you are ready to leave Bilbao. That saves a day of rental.
And look into returning the car at San Sebastián airport: it has flights to Barcelona, and it saves you the drive back to Bilbao. Or, you could return the car the day before and take the train from San Sebastián to Barcelona. The morning train takes 5.5 hours, it is a bit early but gets you to Barcelona by (Spanish) lunchtime.

As for having a car in Donostia / San Sebastián: it is not the most convenient city to drive in, but traffic is OK and parking lots are plentiful, if expensive. So if you'd rather stay in a city than a small town, it is still a good choice even with a car, in my opinion.

Reply to Suki
Please excuse my typo. I did mean to type Bilboa.

Reply to dlindstrom
Your suggestion to look into Baztan Valley is an excellent one. At first glance, it is right up our alley. Thanks so much for sharing.

reply to valadelphia
After you look at the places we are considering, I thought staying somewhere in the middle would be a good idea. Your opinion would be welcome. I am not booking hotels until our itinerary is settled. You make a good point about parking. As seniors, other than Barcelona, we find smaller villages with less traffic, easier parking, and closer parking to the hotel much less stressful. We are open on where to stay - San Sebastian was only an idea.
The list below are villages/places we thought would be of interest. We cannot visit all, but intend to build a priority list.
Baztan Valley (as recommended by dlindstrom in this forum)
Espelette
Bayome
Hondarribia
Pasaia
Mundaka
Bermeo
Zumaia
Elantxobe
Lekeito
Laguaradia
Getaria
St. Jean-de-Luz

Reply to balso
Good suggestions on rental car and train. Right now, I need to decide on a home base, perhaps near the interstate highway, which will help us avoid city traffic everyday as we head out of town to the villages.

Here are my experiences with some of the places on your list.

Bayonne - unfortunately it was a holiday when we were there so most places were closed. We walked around the town for a couple hours. We stayed at the Ibis Styles Bayonne Centre Gare. It’s in a great location, just across the river from downtown. It has limited parking, but there is nearby parking at the train station. Unless it’s a holiday, all parking was paid parking.

Hondarrbia- we liked the town, but one full day is sufficient to see it. The old town up on the hill will take a couple hours to see as will the lower town. We stayed at the Parador (in a old castle) in the old town. It has a paid parking lot. If not spending the night there, there are paid parking lots by the beach. If you don’t want to walk up the hill there is an elevator (Lift - Observation deck) by street Sabin Arana Goiri Kalea, 7. It’s on the backside of the Parador.

Zumaia - we parked on Julio Beobide Ibilbidea along the river. In 2017 it was free. I don’t know about now. From there we walked to the beach and then up the hill to see Érmita San Telmo. From it there is a great view of the beach and the flysch rock formations. You can also walk out onto the point.

Getaria - it’s a working fishing port and nice for a couple hours; longer if you’re eating a meal there. If you’ve seen the movie “A Spanish Affair/Ocho Apellidos Vascos,” much of it was filmed in Zumaia and Getaria. The San Salbador eliza is worth a short visit. While there we got lucky and got a free parking spot along street Sahatsaga Ibilbidea.

Laguardia - pay attention to when things are open. We arrived there just after Church of Santa María de los Reyes closed for the day and many places closed for the afternoon. Like Hondarrbia, there is an elevator (Ascensor de Laguardia) so you don’t need to walk up the hill. It’s along the N-232a/A124. Free parking is nearby in front of Polideportivo Laguardia and the municipal pools. It looks like it’s for the housing units, but it’s for anybody. From Laguardia we drove the 17km to San Vicente de la Sonsierra for lunch. It has a castle up on a hill as well as a church. It too has some good views.

I saved all the parking places to Google maps so I could go straight to them. For parking in Spain, if the lines are white, parking is free. Blue lines are paid parking.

Don't get me wrong, I really enjoyed San Sebastian, and if you were staying a whole week and for sure wanted a city experience at night, I would brave the driving (just verify parking), but if you care less about that, you might pick somewhere smaller. I visited the area by public transport, so I cannot offer any advice. I did make it to Elantxobe, Mundaka, and Bermeo--a gorgeous area I recommend! The Zumaia coastal hike is also excellent, as is the walk from SS to Pasaia.
Perhaps one inland route from Bilbao, and coastal the other direction. The from SS, go toward French side one day, and the closer-in coastal parts the other full day?

As a Basque local (from Bilbao, not Balboa or Bilboa, frequent misspelling by foreigners due to your pronunciation of the "o"), here are my comments:

Baztan Valley (as recommended by dlindstrom in this forum): Beautiful, but maybe a bit off your itinerary. Doable.
Espelette: one hour on the city, best during pepper harvest season (November and onwards), the walls of the houses are covered in red peppers drying in the air.
Bayome: a must in the French Basque Country, you can combine it with St Jean de Luz, a beautiful coastal town.
Hondarribia: a must on this side of the border, both upper and lower areas.
Pasaia: there are two Pasaias, Pasai Donibane (worth the visit, complicated to park) and Pasaia San Pedro (a boat cross to Pasai Donibane, easier -but not much- to park)
Mundaka: Beautiful coastal town, worth the visit.
Bermeo: same as above, get to the old and more hidden port. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a must.
Zumaia: worth the visit for the San Telmo church and flysch. Not easy parking.
Elantxobe: steep town with complicated parking, as practically everywhere in the Basque Country.
Lekeito: parking outside the town, my vacation town for 12 years, one of the most beautiful towns in the Basque Country. So quaint...and winding roads to get there.
Laguaradia: (Laguardia), beautiful medieval town, a visit to two or three wineries is a must. But Laguardia is very much off this route ?¿?¿?¿
Getaria: Worth the visit and worth a seafood lunch there, it´s a mecca for fish lovers.
St. Jean-de-Luz

To prevent GPS problems later, in addition to Bilbao, watch the spelling of Bayonne (two n's, no m).

I found San Sebastian very pretty but far too touristy for me. It's not a place I'd choose as a base for a lot of day trips, so I'm glad others have offered alternatives. I've been to a lot of the places you hope to see and think you have a good list there.

I agree with Mikel that Laguardia doesn't really fit well in you plans, especially as a day trip. If you do want to visit it stay there for the night and take time to visit some of the wineries, and the Vivanco Museum in Briones.

Please forgive me, I see Wisconsin, I think Cheesehead. So I am going to suggest Idiazabal. It is the home of the D.O. Idiazabal cheese. There is a small interpretation center. They have three tours: tour, tour + cheese tasting,and tour + cheese + glass of wine (this is 4.50€)

To jaimeelsabio
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment. Your suggestions will help us give priority to the villages of interest. I am rethinking having a home base at San Sebastian and selecting another location. Perhaps we will look into a parador.

To valadelphia
Thank you. Your ideas prompted us to go to the map again. We have decided to select a home base other than San Sebastian. Not sure where.

To MikelBasqueGuide:
I very much appreciate you taking the time to comment on the villages. I helps us with establishing a priority of places to visit. You have been very helpful. Thanks. We have decided not to base at San Sebastian but select another village. Not sure which one.

To: dlindstrom
Yes, we are cheeseheads! Wisconsin is home of cheese, bratwurst, beer, and the Green Bay Packers football team. Thanks again for your input.

To acraven
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Everyone's input is appreciated and contributes in helping us make good decisions in what will be a wonderful trip.

If you can afford the Parador at Hondarribia, it would be an excellent base: centrally located for your interests (good access to both sides of the border), and in a charming town. Rates often exceed $250/night, however, and I wouldn't be surprised if it is already sold-out for this September.

Not to spoil your planning... but you say you intend to do a "photographic tour"... and you're skipping Barcelona during one of its biggest annual folk festivals? Do a google IMAGE search: "Barcelona Mercè Festival".
If you think it over, and need more info say so :)

When looking at Paradors, consider joining its free Amigos program. It has better rates for members and senior (Golden Days) rates for those over 55 (if booked far enough ahead). As Balso mentioned, the Parador in Hondarrbia is one of the more expensive ones. When we were there in 2107 we paid 238€ a night, bed and breakfast. If you have any questions about the program not answered on its website, send me a pm.

With regard to parking at the Hondarrbia Parador parking lot, it is tight getting into and out of it, due to its location off a narrow road and wall.

To all who recommended Parador Hondarribia, I checked it out. The only available room was a suite for $338. per night. Although affordable, we would not enjoy the benefits of such a wonderful place as we will be anxious every day to head out early and tour for the day.

Donostia-San Sebastian is very expensive, as is Hondarribia for lodging. Have you tried Hotel El Obispo on this town? Greatly located and and impressive building.

$338 is not worth it, agreed. I second the recommendation for hotel Obispo, but do check the parking situation there!

Thanks for the recommendation for Hotel El Obispo. I just reserved four nights and will use this hotel as a base for our adventure. The price was reasonable and I like that we do not have to pack/unpack and change hotels every night.

Again, I want to thank everyone for their help. I believe we will have a more enjoyable trip because of everyone's input.