Feedback on 3 week trip to Basque region, Cantabria, Asturias?

I didn’t get to the Somiedo Park (but some day!) but did spend a week in Los Picos, in Arenas de Cabrales and Fuente De. I did hikes from Arenas through the gorge and up to Bulnes. It’s beautiful, but Sotres seems out of the way and driving through that area is slow. Cangas de Onis is fine, and Los Lagos de Covadonga is beautiful if the weather is good. The drive up there is not one I’d want to do when it’s busy (narrow roads, buses to pass, seriously very narrow roads), and there are restrictions for private cars at certain times of the year. I was there in early June when there wouldn’t have been any, except that there was a marathon in the day I went so had to take a bus anyway and park in Covadonga. I thought LisnPicos but really, even Cangas seems out of the way given how little time you have there. Maybe extra time in the cities would be a nice balance to the mountains?

The caves of El Castillo and Las Monedas are near each other (walking) and worth seeing at the same time, and Tito Bustillo is too. They are all a little different and if you care at all to see them, it’s worth going to all three.

There are other things to do too, like an easy bike ride down the Senda del Oso, near Oviedo, and there will be viewpoints all over the place for scenic stops.

Couple things-
First, tickets for the caves have to be bought ahead of time if you want specific times. And those times may not be super convenient for your schedule. Get in the official website and start scouting it but be aware that when the tickets go on sale, they may or may not be for all the same times every day. If that doesn’t make sense, then just know it might not be easy to fit them into a tight schedule. You definitely want to keep an eye on the releases to buy as soon as you’re able.

Second, you should really get on the maps and calculate how far away these places are from each other. You’ve got a lot of driving in there. It’s doable, but I find driving solo is more tiring and frustrating, especially if the maps give you grief or construction slows you down. The big highways- ones that start with A- are great! But as soon as you get off, the road signs are less obvious and it may take longer to get places than you think. Than Google thinks. Maybe that’s just me, but add extra time into all the legs of driving.

Summary- I’d skip Los Picos. They’re beautiful but if weather is bad, you’ll miss out. Stay along the coast instead and find places along there to check out or give Bilbao another day. Maybe another night in Santillana to see the caves ( go to Castillo and Monedas, but don’t skip Tito Bustillo) and other places around there. Comillas is good for a walk around if you like Gaudi. Look up some viewpoints to see the shorelines along your path. It’s very different from CA and very beautiful.

I suggest using ViaMichelin.com, as well as Google Maps, for driving-time estimates, then building in extra time. One nice thing about ViaMichelin is that if you zoom way in on a map, the especially scenic roads are outlined in green.

What to skip is a personal choice. I tend to visit the smaller towns rather than the large cities. If you do go to Cangas de Onis, that is nice to walk around for a while, consider going the extra few miles up to Covadonga to see the sanctuary and small chapel in the rocks.

Driving won’t be a problem in the areas you’re visiting, but because of the twists, turns, traffic circles (mostly in France) and two lane roads, you won’t be driving more than about 70kph/42mph most of the time.

If you didn’t already know, cars are not allowed in Santillana del Mar during the day unless you’re staying at one of the two paradors in the villages.

Definitely allow extra time for driving. As an example, when we last visited that area we departed Covadonga en route to Santillana. Unfortunately, there had been an accident on the two lane road an we ended up having to backtrack about 15 miles to get onto another road that led in the direction we needed to go.

After the market in Cangas del Onis, have lunch at MOLIN DE MINGO. Book way ahead. Prepare to get lost if you try to get there from Cangas.....return via Arriondas and then, past Arriondas, go up the long and winding road to
the restaurant. One of my favorite eating experiences in Spain. They've spiffed it up a bit, I think, since I was there but it's still rustic and welcoming..great Asturias food. Do not miss!

Some comments on the parts of your itinerary that I know best:

Sat 6/20 Land in Bilbao at 5:30 PM
Sun 6/21 Morning at the Guggenheim, afternoon pintxos tour with Mikel SOUNDS GOOD!! Maximum a couple of hours at the Guggenheim, very close to it you have the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum, with great exhibitions (free this year, and undergoing renovation).
Mon 6/22 Possible tour of La Rioja enroute to Laguardia (or spend more time in Bilbao in the morning and take late bus to Laguardia)
Tues 6/23 Laguardia: St. John’s Eve festivities Makes sense.
Wed 6/24 Laguardia: St. John’s Day festivities Makes sense
Thu 6/25 Early morning bus to San Sebastián, overnight San Sebastián I don´t think you have a direct bus from Laguardia to Donostia-San Sebastian, you need to change bus at Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of the Basque Country (and well worth a visit)
Fri 6/26 San Sebastián, pick up rental car in late afternoon, overnight in Bayonne Makes sense
Sat 6/27 Check out Basque Museum in the morning, visit Isturritz caves in the afternoon, overnight Bayonne
Sun 6/28 Morning exploring Sare, afternoon drive to St. Jean Pied de Port, scenic drive to Pierre Oteiza Les Aldudes, overnight St. Jean Pied de Port
Mon 6/29 St. Jean Pied de Port Monday market, Espelette, overnight in Ainhoa or St. Jean de Luz
Tues 6/30 St. Jean de Luz Tuesday market, afternoon and overnight in Hondarribia
Wed 7/1 Hondarribia —> Guernika —> overnight in Santillana Del Mar In Gernika, the real must-see is the Casa de Juntas, one of the oldest Parliaments in the world. Make sure you get a booking to enter.
Thurs 7/2 Cuevas del Monte Castillo —> San Vicente de la Barquera for lunch —> Ribadesella If visit in English, you need to pay (this year) 90eur per cave. Otherwise, visit in Spanish as standard, book well in advance, daily number of visitors has been reduced from 200 to 35 persons per day. Combine this visit with Las Monedas cave. Just been there.

Laguardia in fiestas should be a lot of fun. It may also fill up fast those days. If you can't get a place, Logroño makes a good plan B. They will have several traditional bonfires around the city. Last year there was a big one in the main square. Also, Calle San Juan will have some small festivities.

As Mikel commented, to get to San Sebastian from Laguardia, you will have to go to Vitoria, or you can go to Logroño. The is a good bus, the Alavabus. They have frequent service to Logroño and Vitoria. From Logroño there are two daily, direct buses to San Sebastian. It is the Estellasa bus.

On the 28th you go from Bayonne to SJPdP, with a stop in Sare and a "detour" to the restaurant Pierre Oteiza. If it is not a "must visit", try the "Gaineko Benta" in the Izpegi pass. The venta has incredible views of the north face of the Pyrenees. After visiting Sare, you there are two other caves near by, Urdax and Zugarramurdi (famous for it's witches' coven). Either way from Sare, go through the Baztan Valley, and over to Izpegi and then down to Baigorri and over to SJPdP. I've never been on the D948 but I've been on the NA1740 and N 138 and they are serious backwoods road.

Thank you so much to everyone for the thoughtful advice. Based on the feedback, I think I will save Sotres/Lake Encina/Cangas de Onis for a different trip. As a solo driver, I’d rather not be stuck for lengthy periods in unexpected traffic.

I will also make sure to book early for Casa de Juntas and for Tito Bustillo and Monte Castillo/Las Monedas caves.

Here is my updated itinerary. Open to any tweaks:

Sat 6/20 Land in Bilbao at 5:30 PM, early dinner at La Vina del Ensanche before visit to Azkuna Zentroa
Sun 6/21 AM at Guggenheim, PM pintxos tour with Mikel. Possible evening outing to Funicular de Artxanda if not too jet-lagged. Dinner at Los Fueros or somewhere near funicular?
Mon 6/22 Early breakfast at Mercado de la Ribera, day tour of La Rioja with Mikel enroute to Laguardia
Tues 6/23 Laguardia: St. John’s Eve festivities
Wed 6/24 Laguardia: St. John’s Day festivities
Thu 6/25 Early AM bus to San Sebastián via Logrono or Vitoria-Gasteiz, overnight San Sebastián
Fri 6/26 San Sebastián - maybe a late afternoon coastal e-bike ride with Basque Country Tours, overnight San Sebastián
Sat 6/27 San Sebastián, pick up rental car at noon, inland route to Bayonne via Ascain and Sare, overnight in Bayonne
Sun 6/28 AM at Basque museum, lunch in Bayonne, PM visit to Isturritz caves, late afternoon drive to St. Jean Pied de Port, dinner at Gaineko Benta, overnight St. Jean Pied de Port
Mon 6/29 AM visit to St. Jean Pied de Port Monday market, scenic drive to Pierre Oteiza Les Aldudes for lunch. PM: St. Jean de Luz (dinner at Pil Pil Enea)
Tues 6/30 AM visit to St. Jean de Luz Tuesday market, lunch at Chez Mattin, PM visits to Ainhoa and Espelette, overnight in Hondarribia
Wed 7/1 AM in Hondarribia or Chillida-Leku, lunch in Orio or Getaria, PM at Balenciaga Museum, overnight Hotel Urune
Thurs 7/2 AM visit to Casa de Juntas in Guernica, PM exploring Urdaibai (any must stops?), overnight Santillana Del Mar
Fri 7/3 AM visit to Cuevas del Monte Castillo and las Monedas, PM in Comillas for late afternoon e-bike ride to San Vicente de la Barquera, overnight in Comillas or Llanes
Sat 7/4 AM exploring Llanes —> Ribadesella, lunch at Gueyu Mar, dinner at La Huertona (9-11:30 pm), overnight in Ribadesella
Sun 7/5 AM at Tito Bustillo, lunch at La Nansa or El Rompeolas in Tazones, overnight in Cudillero
Mon 7/6 AM in Cudillero, PM in Oviedo
Tues 7/7 - Mon 7/13 El Cuelebre in Somiedo
Tues 7/14 Oviedo
Wed 7/15 Oviedo, afternoon train to Madrid
Thurs 7/16 Midday flight home

My comments:

Sat 6/20 Land in Bilbao at 5:30 PM, early dinner at La Vina del Ensanche before visit to Azkuna Zentroa.

Still closed for renovation (La Viña) but i would expect it not to open for dinner not before 8pm (and that´s very early for us). Lunch is the important meal here, so expect just tourists at that time.

Sun 6/21 AM at Guggenheim, PM pintxos tour with Mikel. Possible evening outing to Funicular de Artxanda if not too jet-lagged. Dinner at Los Fueros or somewhere near funicular?

Los Fueros is not particularly near the funicular, but in Bilbao everything is at a walking distance. Los Fueros is fine.

Mon 6/22 Early breakfast at Mercado de la Ribera, day tour of La Rioja with Mikel enroute to Laguardia

The bars at the Mercado de la Ribera are a big tourist trap, do they offer breakfast? It´s offered in any cafeteria in town, at a very low price, but I would not go to the market bars.

Thurs 7/2 AM visit to Casa de Juntas in Guernica, PM exploring Urdaibai (any must stops?), overnight Santillana Del Mar. Guernica will be spelled Gernika everywhere here, take it into account. Bermeo and Mundaka would be musts-sees. Just back from Santillana, expect a very touristy beautiful town, good place for a stop on your way to the caves.
Fri 7/3 AM visit to Cuevas del Monte Castillo and las Monedas, PM in Comillas for late afternoon e-bike ride to San Vicente de la Barquera, overnight in Comillas or Llanes. Visit El Capricho and the cemetery in Comillas.

Just take into account that we have our own schedules, different to those in many other countries. Many shops will open around 1030am and will close around 1330 or 1400, to reopen around 5pm, as lunch is the main meal of the day and life does slow down during this time and no visits can be done during these closing times, normally.