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Fall Spain Trip 1st Time

Hello, I booked a round trip flight to Madrid yesterday from 9/11 until 9/24. The actual arrival time will be on 9/12. I am fluent in Spanish and more keenly interested in visiting Andalusia during this trip but the tickets were much cheaper to Madrid. I have been fascinated with Spain for the past 12 years so I'm very excited to finally have the opportunity to go there. I am primarily interested in touring the famous sites, eating out, etc but I am also gay and was interested in learning about gay life there. I have a few individuals I have kept in contact with through Skype in Madrid and Seville who I may end up meeting and they could possibly serve as tour guides. Anyway keeping in mind my interests what would be the best itinerary? Total will really be about 12 days. I was thinking 4 days in Madrid, 4 in Seville, 1 in Cordoba, and 2 in Granada. Should I add another day to Seville or Cordoba? How do I balance sightseeing while also not being too rushed to miss out on gay life?

I would like to have cheap accommodations and (maybe food) so are hostels a good option? I'm 29 years old and this will be my first solo trip overseas. Apart from buying Alhambra tickets as soon as possible should I also have my accommodations booked before flying? Should I have the AVE tickets purchased too or is it cheaper and more convenient to take the bus? Please let me know your opinions. Thank you very much.

Posted by
4574 posts

You may want to lurk on TripAdvisor Granada Forum. There is a semi-regular poster there who updates on Granada from a gay perspective. That might define whether you want more time there.
September is still high season, so I would recommend getting accommodation and train tickets sooner than later in order to get best pricing. Spain train travel is based on dynamic pricing so demand increases cost....also, some routes sell out. However, you can look at the bus for Seville - Granada route as it takes about the same time as the train due to current train construction. I don't know about bussing for Cordoba - Granada, but that might also work out well.
If you need more time somewhere else, and you aren't into big art museums, then take a day from Madrid....or leave the bulk of Madrid until the end. You might find that you will get recommendations of Madrid gay life along the way and leaving it until the end might be an advantage.
Perhaps Madrid - 1, Cordoba - 1, Seville - 4, Granada - 2, Madrid - 3; or Madrid - 1, Granada - 2, Seville - 4, Cordoba - 1 , Madrid - 3.

Posted by
15585 posts

Since you land in the morning, you can take a train from the airport (transfer in Madrid) to Cordoba for 2 nights. Then Sevilla, then bus or train to Granada and lastly in Madrid. If you have an afternoon or evening flight home, you could start in Madrid, then Granada, Sevilla and lastly Cordoba. It's pretty straightforward to train from Cordoba to Madrid, then on to the airport - as long as your flight isn't in the morning.

2 nights in Granada is the minimum. It will take about 3.5-4 hours (door-to-door) between Sevilla or Cordoba and Granada. It's more like 6 hours to or from Madrid. If you can work it out, I recommend taking the night visit to the Nasrid Palaces on your first evening, then a day visit. The Nasrid is much different after dark.

September is high season in Andalucia (July-August is low season because of the heat), so it's a very good idea to book in advance. You can find hostels using hostelworld.com and/or hostelz.com. You can read reviews and get a good idea of the vibe (some hostels are for serious travelers, others are for partying, some in-between). This article explains everything you need to know about trains. Also check the ALSA bus site for prices and schedules to/from Granada. For the rest of your trip, fast trains are the way to go. Buses will be significantly slower. Make sure you have your Granada lodging before committing to Alhambra dates - but make sure there are tickets available before you commit to lodging - though most places allow free cancellations, some hostels require a non-refundable deposit. Just check the terms before giving your credit card info.

Cordoba is my favorite Spanish city, so I recommend 2 nights there - especially if it's at the beginning of your trip. You don't need a 1-nighter when you're jetlagged. 4 nights in Madrid is a lot unless you want to spend a couple days seeing the wonderful painting collections at the Prado, the Thyssen and the Reina Sofia. If you want medieval or Moorish, don't seek it there.

Posted by
5215 posts

Rondcube,
I'd suggest this route:

  • Take AVE train to Córdoba on day of arrival (2N)

    • Train or bus to Granada (2-3N)
    • Train or Bus to Sevilla ( 3-4N)
    • AVE train to Madrid- (3-4N)

Book your lodging, then your Alhambra tickets, & AVE train tickets to Córdoba & back to Madrid.

Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
7175 posts

I would go with this ...
September
12. ARRIVE Madrid (4N)
13. Madrid
14. Day to Toledo
15. Day to Segovia
16. Train to Seville (3N)
17. Seville
18. Seville
19. Train to Cordoba (1N)
20. Train to Ronda (1N)
21. Train to Granada (2N)
22. Alhambra
23. Train/bus to Madrid (1N)
24. DEPART Madrid

Stay in Madrid'a gay neighbourhood of Chueca. Street life is very colourful, as witnessed in the films of Pedro Almovodar. You will find innumerable bars and clubs but be wary of the late hour things get going - bars at midnight, clubs at 2am. If you are a gay man, be wary of rent boys, and young men with ulterior motives.

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you for all of the replies, everyone. Chani, I will actually have an evening flight back to the US from Madrid. In that case, what itinerary would you recommend? Leaving Madrid for the end or spending the 3-4 nights in Madrid at the beginning of the trip? Should I just stay 2 nights in Madrid?(the day I arrive and the day I leave?)

Posted by
15585 posts

I don't know that it matters much. If you want to spend hours at the art museums in Madrid, maybe it's better at the end of your visit, without jetlag. Cordoba is pretty quiet and low key, so it might be better to start there. The only downside I can think of is you shouldn't buy the train ticket until you're there - you never know if there will be a delay on arrival. So the cost differential may be a factor.

Posted by
7175 posts

With an evening flight you could come from Cordoba on your departure day.

September
12. ARRIVE Madrid (4N)
13. Madrid
14. Day to Toledo
15. Day to Segovia
16. Train/bus to Granada (2N)
17. Alhambra
18. Train/bus to Ronda (1N)
19. Train/bus to Seville (3N)
20. Seville
21. Seville
22. Train to Cordoba (2N)
23. Mezquita
24. Train to Madrid for evening flight

Posted by
11294 posts

In addition to hostels, look at hostales, which are not hostels, but inexpensive hotels. In Spain, a single private room in a hostal can be cheap enough to be a good alternative to a hostel.

For instance, in Madrid, I stayed at the Hostal Acapulco, for €57 a night in 2015, with an ensuite bathroom. It's in a great location in the center of town, but on a quiet street. I'd definitely stay here again. http://www.hostalacapulco.com/

(I know you said you're fluent in Spanish, but for anyone else reading this who is not: You can get the website in English by clicking the British flag. However, while my reservation was handled directly by e-mail in English with no problems, the desk staff was mostly Spanish speaking only).

I don't have recommendations for your other cities, but look at Eurocheapo for accommodation ideas for Seville: http://www.eurocheapo.com/seville/

As for meals, many restaurants have lunch specials (menu del dia) for about €12; this is a full multi-course meal, and is a great deal. Some places in Madrid had dinner deals as well. Beware that tapas can start to add up if you're hungry, so while they are cheap per tapa, it's not necessarily a cheap meal in all.

To compare buses and trains, you have to do a bit of legwork. Trains will be much cheaper if bought in advance and if you can commit to non-refundable tickets. AVE (high speed) trains will be much faster than buses. Currently, the AVE or Avant (shorter high speed train segments) connect Madrid to Cordoba to Seville. Granada is not yet on the AVE network (they're building the link now). Instead, you take a train as far as Antequera, then connect to a bus (run by Renfe, the rail company) that goes from the Antequera train station to the Granada train station. All other buses for Granada use the Granada bus station, quite a bit farther away from the center.

Bus are much cheaper. They will be much slower than the AVE, and can be slower than regular trains if there is a direct train. However, on train routes where you have to change, a bus can be easier as well as faster than the train. This was the case in 2005 when I went from Cordoba to Granada by bus (not sure if it's still true). Spanish buses are much nicer than Greyhound in the US. You get a reserved seat, and on some routes you get an airplane-style seatback entertainment system (USB charging plug, video screen, and even an electrical outlet). Luggage goes under the bus for long distance rides, so that's easy as well.

To find train fares, use the Renfe website http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/index.html following the directions in the tutorial Chani linked. If you want to buy tickets, use Paypal, which works, instead of US credit cards, which usually don't.

To find bus routes, a great start is Rome2Rio: https://www.rome2rio.com/. Find all the bus companies that work on a particular route, then go directly to those bus company's websites to get details of times and prices. Some routes have only one bus company, some have more than one, all at different frequencies and prices.

As for gay life in the cities you're going to, Madrid will not only have the most (as the largest city), but the most accessible for the visitor (gay visibility is very high all over central Madrid all the time, not just at night and not just in the "gayborhood" of Chueca). Do look for the most current information about bars and clubs, and take seriously the note above about their hours. If you don't know the term madrugada, you'll learn it fast. That's the time between about midnight and 6 AM. So, what we call "two in the morning" in Spain is known as dos de la madrugada.

Posted by
3 posts

I appreciate the replies again. Sorry for my ignorance but Chani, what do you mean by the only downside being having to buy the tickets once I'm there as I won't know if there will be a delay on arrival? I thought it would be best to buy all of my tickets in advance.

Posted by
11294 posts

Once you buy an advance purchase discount ticket for the AVE or Avant, you are locked into a particular train. This is usually fine. But if you're trying to take a train right after your flight arrival, it's very hard to time correctly. You never know if your flight will be on time, early, or late, and then you never know how long immigration will take (passport control). Customs is just a matter of walking through the "Green channel nothing to declare" line, and does not take time.

So, if you buy an advance ticket from Madrid to Cordoba for the same day as your arrival at Madrid Barajas airport, you run the risk of missing your train (and having to buy a whole new ticket) or having to wait many hours (not a financial hazard, but not fun when your tired and jetlagged and just want to get to your destination). That's why it's usually recommended that for a train on the same day as your international flight arrival, you wait until you arrive to buy the ticket. You can buy a ticket for the whole trip (Madrid airport to Madrid Atocha station, then Madrid Atocha to Cordoba) at the airport's train station upon arrival. That's the best plan - if you can afford this last minute ticket price. Check on Renfe's website to see what it is (look at tickets for later today or tomorrow to get the accurate price).

If you spend your first night in Madrid, you can then buy advance tickets for all your long distance trains without worry; that's cheaper, but may not be as good an itinerary for you for other reasons.