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Extremadura

I’m planning my 13th trip to Spain and have trouble finding details on the Extremadura region.

I hope to go to Portugal and cross into Spain and travel, without a car, to the Extremadura region by bus (preferred) or train.

Any insights are appreciated. I like to use a town/city as a base and do day trips before moving on. I’m a slow traveler. When traveling for 3 weeks I’ll limit myself to 4 “base” cities. I like to wander, savor, and absorb the culture, not rush from sight to sight.

Thanks,
Kathy Felgran

Posted by
28084 posts

Cross-border ground transportation between Portugal and Spain is very limited. There's a night train between Lisbon and Madrid, but that's not likely to be helpful. As of 2016 I think there was a bus between Badajoz and some point(s) in Portugal, surely including Elvas (which should be linked to other Portuguese towns like Estremoz and Evora). I haven't taken it. Elvas and Badajoz are so close together that a taxi probably wouldn't be horribly expensive. Just looking at the map, that may be the most practical crossing point for you. There just aren't many towns of any size on either side of the border.

Do you need to end up in Madrid (Seville?) or in Lisbon?

I spent a modest amount of time in Extremadura--less time than you'll have if you mean 3 weeks just for the Spanish part of your itinerary. I traveled entirely by train and bus. I though Caceres (UNESCO) needed the most time. It has a lot of historic architecture spanning many eras. It seemed that a lot of the buildings had been restored for use as government offices, etc., which was nice to see. Few foreign tourists seem to make it to Caceres.

Trujillo, much smaller, feels even more off the beaten path. I just day-tripped there and don't know whether there's enough to keep you busy for 3 or 4 nights.

Merida has some legit Roman ruins and a nice, modern archeological museum whose mosaics I liked. It is otherwise not that interesting a place (there seems universal agreement on this). It's linked by highway to Badajoz, so it will probably be easy to access as you arrive from Portugal.

I really just passed through Plasencia, arriving late in the afternoon and spending one night there. It was my impression it deserved more time. What's not to like about a walled town? I arrived and departed by train; a glance at Google Maps confirms my memory that the train station is a bit of a walk from the historic center.

Ciudad Rodrigo is in Castilla y Leon rather than Extremaduro, but it's just over the regional line. It's a rather small place (pop under 15,000) with a walkable wall. It's the only place in that part of Spain where I encountered a tour group; they seemed to be Portuguese.

Penelope Casas's "Discovering Spain: An Uncommon Guide" may have material on Extremadura. I found it very interesting for its coverage of out-of-the-way places. It's not a traditional guidebook, but if it covers the area of interest, it will be one of the relatively few books that do. I should warn you that Ms. Casas traveled by car, so even if the book were more current, it wouldn't be helpful to you on logistical matters.

The other thing you should do is see what you can find from the NYTimes Travel section by Googling. You should have access to 10 free articles a month, maybe more if you switch browsers. I think there may have been an article on Caceres that got me interested in Extremadura.

Google found this article from the Globe and Mail: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/destinations/in-the-small-city-of-caceres-spain-is-at-its-mostdelicious/article38285426/

You might also check to see whether Lonely Planet and Rough have coverage. I believe LP sells electronic versions of individual chapters of its guidebooks.

You didn't mention the timing of your trip. That part of Spain positively bakes in the summer. I think it's cold in the winter.

Posted by
723 posts

I have been to Extremadura three times and think it is a jewel of a destination.
These are my suggestions for key sites to visit. I have been to these towns and really enjoyed them.
Cáceres - the historic center is fabulous.

Guadalupe - beautiful historic monastery and the little town is also very picturesque. I do not think there is train access. Look into bus.
Trujillo - This was probably my favorite, and I highly recommend staying overnight there a day or two. This medieval town is so eerie at night, almost spooky. I know there is not a train station so you would have to check into bus routes.
Mérida - Excellent Roman ruins but I personally would do this as a daytrip and not stay overnight. For me the attraction there was the ruins. However, if there were a concert going on at the Roman theater ruins that would be spectacular to attend and worth staying the night.
Plasencia
I still have some old scenic mountain towns that are on my wishlist. I very much like rural tourism. I follow a lot of Spanish tourism accounts, including several from Extremadura, on Instagram. When I come across a particularly beautiful or interesting photo, I research the town and keep a list of future possibilities. Many of these would only be accessible by car or bus but bus travel in Spain is comfortable and inexpensive. Here are some on my wish list.
Hervás and Bejar
San Martin de Trevejo
Almendralejo
Mogarraz - this is a unique town with large murals/photos/paintings? of the inhabitants of the old timbered houses put right onto the buildings. Actually in the province of Salamanca but not terrribly far from Cáceres.
Badajoz - also has Roman ruins
When searching for places to stay look up “Casas rurales” or “Hoteles con encanto for Extremadura. These sites feature some really neat smaller hotels or BnB properties often in scenic areas. Again you would have to judge your nearby transportation links. I would also look up to see if any of the places you are planning to visit have any special typical celebrations going on during the time you will be there. That would be enjoyable.

This area can be very hot in the summer. The Valle del Jerte is very pretty in spring when all of its 2 million cherry trees blossom. Cherry preserves from that area are very good.

Enjoy the planning!

Posted by
7160 posts

Extremadura is an interesting part of Spain few tourists seem to visit. As pointed out, the main cities are Cáceres, Mérida, Trujillo, Zafra, Badajoz, and Plasencia. You could use either Trujillo or Cáceres as a base and day trip to the other, or Mérida and Zafra and day trip between the two. To me, neither Plasencia nor Badajoz have any must see sights. Somewhat close to Trujillo is Guadalupe and the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe. Further away in Talavera de la Reina is Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Prado. It has many tiled walls that might be interesting to see. Near Zafra is the town of Jerez de los Caballeros. It is surrounded by a moorish wall with six gates. Also in the vicinity of Zafra is the Castillo de Nogales. North of Plasencia is the half abandoned town of Granadilla. Residents were forced to relocate when a nearby dam was constructed. You can’t drive in it, but can park by the castle there. Béjar has a nice medieval wall while Cuacos de Yuste has the restored 1400s Monasterio de San Jerónimo de Yuste. There are Roman bridges in both Alcantará (also has a small Roman temple) and Barco de Ávila (also has a castle). Whether there is public transportation to any of the smaller places I mentioned, I have no idea.

Posted by
28084 posts

Pat, do you know anything about Zafra? I don't, but it sounds sort of familiar--as if someone once recommended it here.

[I posted this before seeing Jaime's response, which mentioned Zafra.]

Posted by
7304 posts

I stayed overnight at the Parador in Zafra once, a long long time ago. The Parador itself was the most interesting building, as far as I remember. Otherwise the town itself was a pleasant, reasonably attractive Spanish town like many others - it was on our way and made for a convenient stop, but I wouldn't actively seek to go back. We did not have time to visit the surroundings (but we did visit Mérida to the north, and stopped by Jabugo, of ham fame, to the south).

Posted by
723 posts

Acraven, I have never been to Zafra but from the descriptions given by jaimeelsabio and balso sounds like it would be just the type of place I like to visit.

kfelgran, I know you asked about Extremadura but if you have never been to Salamanca that is also a beautiful city and it is served by train. Are you returning back through Portugal or heading on to Madrid? If doing the later, that is an option to consider. There are so many great places to visit that it makes it hard to narrow down all the choices.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you to those who have posted replies and info.

Yes, I’ve been to Salamanca a number of times and love it.

I will travel in Autumn of 2022. Mt plans are fluid at the moment; I don’t need to return through Portugal.

All of my travel will be without a car and I travel solo so I don’t have to worry about what someone else want to do.

I’ve traveled extensively in Spain and love the country. I just haven’t been to The Extremadura and since it is next to Portugal it would make sense to try to go on this trip.

Planning is as much fun as traveling, so I always start early.

I do lots of photography, love history, art, museums, archeology, wandering aimlessly and getting lost, chatting with strangers, and checking out crafts. I also love Islamic architecture as well as monasteries (especially cloisters).

As an example of how I travel, I spent 5 nights in Tarragona before going to Barcelona for a week. I never ran out of wonderful experiences (even though I know many people view Tarragona as a day trip from Barcelona).

Keep the suggestions coming, please. I’m looking at my maps now to see places that have been mentioned 🤗

Posted by
1117 posts

The Extremadura is popular with birders, from what I have heard. So if you are into experiencing nature, that might be worth checking out.

P.S. Sure you want to publish your e-mail here?

Posted by
3230 posts

In Extremadura I would sleep in Trujillo. The highlight there is the Ciudad Monument if that interests you.

Posted by
7160 posts

To clarify something MaryPat mentioned, the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe is in the town of Guadalupe not the city Trujillo.

Posted by
3230 posts

To clarify something MaryPat mentioned, the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Guadalupe is in the town of Guadalupe not the city Trujillo.

Thank you Jaimee, I removed it from my post.