Excited to plan trip to Southern Spain

How many days? Will you be visiting Barcelona or just using that a a jumping off point? Paris to Barcelona is a long train ride, and I'm not so sure how scenic it would be. I should think from your area you could fly in Barcelona pretty reasonably.

Hi Leslie,

Here’s the link to my trip report last year when we went to Spain for three weeks. That was our first time in Spain, and we liked it even more than we had anticipated. We just traveled by trains & occasional bus, as you’re also planning.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/1st-time-to-spain-trip-report

Fantastic! I can't wait to read about your trip tonight! And to answer the other post. We wanted to see Paris if possible and yes do a short stay in Barcelona! Thanks so much.

If this will be your first trip to each of these destinations, three weeks will not turn out to be as long as you expect. Days will still be rather short in late February, and I imagine a first-time visitor to Paris would want at least 5 full days there (so 6 nights--arrival day is pretty useless due to mental fogginess). Barcelona also has a lot of great sights, many of which require pre-purchase of time-specific tickets to avoid very long lines. It's hard to manage a packed schedule in that city, so I'd plan 5 full days there, too (6 nights). With luck the weather in Barcelona will be a good bit warmer than in Paris.

Do you have no interest in Madrid/Toledo/Segovia? You have plenty for 3 weeks without that area. If that is the case, you might consider flying from Barcelona to Granada. Granada's the most isolated of your destinations and doesn't yet have full express train service. So that would make your routing Paris-Barcelona-Granada-Cordoba-Seville.

If you prefer to stick to the train (with a short bus leg into Granada), it could be Paris-Barcelona-Cordoba-Seville-Granada, or Paris-Barcelona-Cordoba-Granada-Seville if flying out of Granada won't work for you.

I'm planning an April trip beginning in Spain for myself, and I couldn't find a decent fare into Andalucía, so I ended up booking a flight into Madrid. I'll do some casual wandering around (if I can stay awake) and head to Seville by train the next day. I am flying out of Dulles, which I've always found is cheaper than BWI. If you run into the same problem I did and need to use one of the major Spanish cities as your departure airport, you'd have these two options:

Paris-fly to Granada-Seville-Cordoba-Barcelona
or
Paris-Barcelona-fly or train to Granada-Seville-Cordoba-Madrid

You'll need to watch ticket availability for the Alhambra. It often sells out really early. I see that February tickets are already on sale. I'm not sure when March will become available. The website refers to "3 months", and I think that might mean 3 months before the first day of the month you plan to visit, which would be December 1. But I am not certain.

The next critical step will be the long-distance train tickets (and any intra-European flights) you need. The flights are already on sale, and it's likely that airfares will just keep going up as your trip gets closer. Renfe has tickets for sale through March 3. The cheapest tickets (and they are about 1/3 the cost of full-fare tickets) are non-refundable and non-changeable, so you must be sure of your itinerary before buying them. Those tickets will gradually get snapped up by others, so buy what you need as soon as you are absolutely sure of your schedule. Buying from Renfe can be tricky. Paying with PayPal may help, or you may be able to use trainline.eu or loco2.com. I haven't checked to see whether they sell Spanish rail tickets, but their prices are good. Do not use RailEurope; it may not show all the available trains and it often charges substantial fees.

I see that SNCF, the French rail company, has a few trains to Barcelona for sale in early March. I'm not sure when the rest will show up. Again, you can save a lot of money by buying early, but the best deals are on the non-exchangeable tickets. It appears that that category of ticket isn't for sale yet for the date you'd be traveling. I'm not sure when those will become available.

This is really great and useful information I will have a chance to digest the info tonight and I may have a few questions . Thank you very much!

I can make a few recommendations. Since you said you are interested in going from Barcelona to Andalucía, I would like to recommend two beautiful small towns that aren't quite on the American tourist radar yet: Baeza and Úbeda and they are on the general route from Granada to Córdoba. They are just a few miles apart from each other and you can go by taxi or bus between them. Both are filled with beautiful old buildings, fountains, plazas, churches and scenic views. Just roaming the quirky old streets is pleasurable. Both are surrounded by thousands of olive groves. Baeza has a lookout with spectacular panoramic views over the Guadalquivir Valley. We visited both this past spring and travelled easily by bus and train. We did not rent a car. Since these towns are in the heart of a major olive oil producing region, we visited a nearby (in Begíjar) family owned olive oil mill to learn the process and taste samples. That was interesting. Do a search for Baeza and Úbeda to see images and lists of the things to do and if they appeal to you. I had read recommendations for these two towns on this forum and was so glad we visited them. I have travelled extensively in Spain and these two towns are two of my favorites, (along with Extremadura and its many old towns where you literally step back in time.)

If you have not yet been to Córdoba and Sevilla they are worthy destinations with much to see and do. Have you been to Toledo? Consider flying in to Barcelona and out of Madrid.

Thank you everyone for the excellent information. I will print everything up and check out all the recommendations. My husband and I have never been to Spain or France.(-we have been to Middle East and Turkey and Central America). Your posts have made me more enthusiastic- Now I am thinking maybe of flying to Lisbon and then to Southern Spain.

Oh, dear. The deadly Portugal + Spain combo. Looks so easy on a map; not so easy in real life. Ground transportation between those two countries is surprisingly difficult. You'll probably need to fly from Lisbon to Spain, so one of the first things to do is figure out which Spanish cities have non-stop flights from Lisbon. That may narrow down the routings you want to consider inside Spain. You can use skyscanner to figure this out. Origin = Lisbon. Destination = Spain. Date = your likely travel date. Click on "Non-stop flights only". Some flights may not operate daily, so check a few days on either side of your proposed date if you expect to have some flexibility.

I haven't checked, but I believe Lisbon may be quite a bit cooler than southern Spain in February.

Thank you for reply aboput LisbonPortugal to Spain. I decided we will just fly to Spain! I want to enjoy more timewithout constantly moving around...Thanks!

February is a great time for Barcelona and Andalucia. It looks like there are non-stop flights from all 3 of your nearby airports, so fly open-jaw Barcelona/Madrid.

I would allow at least 5 days for Barcelona, there is so much to see and do in the city as well as several good day trips. The recommended way from Barcelona to Granada is to fly, since overland takes hours longs. Or you could train to Madrid and then do a loop around Andalucia.

I would rent a car after Granada and spend 2-3 days driving through the pueblos blancos, the white hill towns, with Ronda as a base, dropping the car in Jerez or Sevilla. Between Granada and Ronda, you could stop to see the prehistoric dolmens on the outskirts of Antequera, go hiking in El Torcal and/or see the flamingos at the "Pink Lagoon" (Fuente de Piedra ). Then Sevilla, Cordoba, Toledo and finally Madrid by train. How much time you spend in Madrid depends on whether you want to spend a couple of days at the 3 excellent art museums, enjoying European paintings. There's nothing "wrong" with Madrid, but most visitors find it pales in comparison to the rest of the country.

You mention seeing the Mediterranean Coast, so I would highly recommend Malaga. I doubt it will be beach weather, but the great thing about Malaga is that there is lots to do there besides go to the beach. There are many small art museums, although we only visited the Picasso Museum. There is a great indoor market (Ataranazas sp?). We climbed to the top of the Alcazaba which is beautiful with lots of greenery, flowers, small fountains, and stunning views of the Mediterranean and the port. Then above that is the castle ruins. The promenade along the port is lovely, and weather permitting, you can sit outside, have some drinks, and watch the sun set. We really enjoyed Malaga, and I think it is an under-rated city.

I also love Madrid. My husband didn't like it as much as I did. We spent a lot of time at the Prado and Reina Sofia museums. Visited the palace and Retiro Park, and just wandered around. I would love to return to Madrid to see the things we didn't have time for.

And you need at least 5 nights in Barcelona. If you spend all 3 weeks in Spain, I think you would also have to time to visit a bit of the Costa Brava. Girona is a lovely small city. We spent 2 nights there. Better to stay overnight, I think, than see it as a day trip.

Another vote for Girona. Although it's popular, you can walk 100 feet away from the main drag in the historic district and be by yourself. There's lots to see there (the art museum is nice), and it will not be as hectic as Barcelona. If you have an interest in the Dali Theatre and Museum in Figueres, it's a quicker day-trip from Girona than from Barcelona, which would argue for multiple nights in Girona. There are other good side-trips as well, including Cadaques and Besalu.

Awesome! Thank you for all the advice today! We will follow your recommendations... Has anyone also taken a ferry to Morocco?there is plenty of beauty, history, and inspiration in Spain but just wondered. Also how did you find the people in Southern Spain?
Again I truly appreciate the advice.

Morocco is fabulous, but Tangier is not. It takes time to get yourself into position to take the ferry, and then you have to get back on your itinerary after you've experienced the Moroccan equivalent of Tijuana. So the excursion isn't really a day-trip. It will probably take a full day plus multiple hours the day before and the day after. It will be longer if you try to do it by public transportation, rather than driving yourself to the ferry port.

Please defer Morocco until you have time to see great cities like Fes and Marrakech. With advance planning one can get budget flights to Morocco from a number of European cities.

That makes sense regarding Tangiers Morocco. I think this trip we will stick with Spain only- do you agree...there is a huge amount to see and do. Thank you this was very helpful.

I can't imagine that you will regret spending all the time in Spain. I'm going back next year after spending 89 days in Spain in 2016. Gotta see at least part of the stuff I missed.

I just booked a flight to Barcelona! Now the wonderful fun trip planning begins. Can anyone recommend any great novels set in Spain? Or historical works? Thank you!

Since you will be heading to Barcelona I would recommend the popular novel "La Catedral del Mar" (English: Cathedral of the Sea) by Ildefonso Falcones. It's set in medieval Barcelona and revolves around the various political intrigues of the city during the 1300s, at the height of the Crown of Aragon's military power. The novel uses the construction of the Santa Maria del Mar Church in Barcelona (which one can visit) as a central plot device.

Just this year, Netflix has actually adapted "Cathedral of the Sea" into an original T.V. show by the same name. The series is in Spanish but also has English subtitles. I have watched a couple of episodes and it's not too bad, it may be a bit slow plot-wise, at the beginning. Here is the trailer if you are interested: La Catedral del Mar - Trailer en Español l Netflix

yes I will find the book and check out the Netflix movie! Thanks so very much!

No problem :)

For your travels through Andalucía, I would recommend the classic "Tales of the Alhambra" by Washington Irving. It's a collection of short stories and sketches inspired by the people, legends, and places Irving encountered while actually living in the ruins of the Alhambra, in the early 19th century.

Before the publication of Irving's book, the Alhambra was in ruins after the Napoleonic invasion (1808-1814) and an 1821 earthquake. "Tales of the Alhambra", was instrumental in reintroducing (and romanticising) the Alhambra to Western audiences. That was a very good thing, because it gave the Alhambra the needed attention to kick-start its long overdue restoration work.

Here is a free E book version from Project Gutenberg: The Alhambra by Washington Irving
I personally like to buy physical copies of books, but an E book may be preferable for traveling.

Thanks so very much for the recommendation "Tales of Alhambra" - I will get a physical copy soon!

If you enjoy a good murder then the Inspector Falcón series are set in Sevilla and surroundings. If you want something a bit more highbrow, then Cervantes spent time in Andalucia and there are some monuments to him. Some suggest the inspiration for Don Quixote came whilst he was in the gaol in Sevilla.

Yeah! Im writing all these book recommendations down. I already picked up Hemmingway, Ferdrico Garcia Lorca, and a novelist Maria Duenes... Where is the best Flamenco dancing -Sevilla?

Carlos, thanks for the recommendation of 'Tales of the Alhambra' - it's ordered and I'm looking forward to reading it in preparation of our trip next fall!

I highly appreciate all the travel advice! I was just wondering if anyone has been to Almeria province and Cabo de Gata? Also for a 3 week trip does it sound reasonable to take a train from Barcellona to Cordoba and then take local transportation to see Seville, Granada area, and Almeria and then fly from somewhere back to Barcelona? Or is renting a car a better option? I also would like to see Malaga, Baeza, Ubeda. I initially was planning that we would fly to Paris but now our trip will be only to mainly Southern Spain! I also am reading an amazing historical fiction by Maria Duenas.

I think you can fly from Barcelona to Granada. Have you checked flight schedules and train schedules yet? We used loco2 for the train schedules and reservations. They are very easy to use. I think a train from Barcelona to Cordoba would be a very long train ride. If you go to Cordoba right after Barcelona, you could take the ALSA bus from Cordoba to Granada (about 2.5 hours), and then take the ALSA bus from Granada to Malaga (about 1.5 hours). The bus is very comfortable, modern, and air-conditioned. I've been reading that the high speed train tracks to Granada are not finished yet, which is why I am suggesting the bus. Then you can take the train from Malaga to Seville, if that is your last stop before returning to Barcelona. You mention Almeria, but I have never been there an don't know where it is. Do you have maps?

I think you would need a car for Baeza and Ubeda.

@kmkwoo - The Province of Almería is located on the southeast coast of Spain, in between Málaga and Murcia. It's a bit of a desolate corner of Spain, with an arid and desertic interior and a remote jagged coastline to match. It's really off the beaten path, but I think that's what makes it unique and fascinating. Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park is the driest area in Europe.

Because of it's desert landscape, Almería (specifically Tabernas Desert) stood in for the American wild west in many cowboy films in the 60s and 70s, the most notable being Sergio Leone's Dollars Trilogy (The Good, the Bad and the Ugly etc.). Even today one can find American western ghost-towns in Almería's Tabernas Desert left over from the various film shoots, they have become tourist attractions in their own right. Some other movies that were filmed in Almería include Conan the Barbarian, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, Lawrence of Arabia, and Patton.

Carlos, Thank you for taking the time to describe the Almeria province for me. It sounds very interesting!

No worries! :) There is still so much of Spain that, for the most part, is under the international tourist radar (and maybe that's for the best lol).

I cant wait to go!! You all have given me great advice..Big thanks again for the information about Almeria and for the transportation information!

Maria Duenas is a local celebrity here in Cartagena, where she lives - possibly the main one, at least since Hannibal left for the Alps. One or more of her books has been made into a TV mini-series.

Cabo de Gata (and the coastline further East), is very attractive and, because it's a nature reserve, not built up. But getting there without a car will be time-consuming - there is a limited bus service, no trains. And in February it will be closed-up in terms of the tourist businesses (which might appeal, of course). Don't bother with the coastline in the West of the province, it's a hideous plastic-covered greenhouse for Almeria's massive fruit industry.

You didn't ask, but if the choice were between Almeria city (as opposed to the Almeria province generally) and Ubeda/Baeza then I would choose the latter two. There's nothing wrong with Almeria city, but it is in a way another (less good), version of Granada or Malaga cities. Whereas Ubeda & Baeza are a real contrast to a lot of Andalucian cities and both are Renaissance jewels.

One of the "wild west" attractions mentioned by Carlos is Fort Bravo; it is fun, especially if taking grandchildren, but I'm not sure it is worth flying the Atlantic for! It's sub-named "Texas Hollywood" which even my limited knowledge of US geography thinks isn't quite right. The TravelMan went there (out of season):

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3CZ_CpHQe5w

Nick-Thank you so much for the information- I was thinking Almeria province because it sounded less tourist like, but I'm glad you made me aware about public transportation -And I would love to see Cabo de Gata if we rent a car-and I will head your recommendation and not stay over in Almeria city.

I love the book by Maria Duenas so glad she is popular-

Also I have no interest in anything American while in Spain-we are not interested in any wild west type places -but I remember some of these movies were filmed in Spain- I do want to see the movie Pan's Labyrinth.

Now I'm trying to figure the best route (where to start after Barcelona. We normally drive but my husband is interested in public transportation as a better way to see the culture.

Thank you-

I cant thank you enough for the prior assistance- I am so excited about this trip!
I have several questions:
-Is there a preferred order to seeing Seville, Granada, and Cordoba?
-Is it recommended to stay in fewer places and take day trips to the coast or hill towns?
-We normally drive on trips but thought it might be more authentic experience to take trains? Is a car necessary to see some hill towns?
-Has anyone been to the Flamenco Festival de Jerez?

-Has anyoine been to Las Fallas de San Jose?

Again thank you so much !

Leslie

-Is there a preferred order to seeing Seville, Granada, and Cordoba? Only whatever route is the least travel time and/or works best with train/bus schedules. Otherwise I don't think it matters at all.

-Is it recommended to stay in fewer places and take day trips to the coast or hill towns? With a car, spend 2-3 nights in Ronda and day-trip to visit the other hill towns. From Sevilla, you can day trip to Jerez and Cadiz, and maybe Arcos (train to Jerez, then bus to Arcos). Of course you can also day-trip from Sevilla to Cordoba (or vice versa) but both are worth overnight stays.

-We normally drive on trips but thought it might be more authentic experience to take trains? Is a car necessary to see some hill towns? With limited time, yes. The best way is to rent a car between Sevilla or Cordoba and Granada. For the rest, trains and buses are better.

Las Fallas in Valencia? Yes, I was there a couple years ago, so was avirose. What do you want to know?

Thank you Chani! I was just wondering if the festival in Vallenica was worth going to. I think anywhere we go in Spain will be fascinatining, beautiful, and culturally rich!