I was in Spain for Easter Week ten years ago. Unfortunately, I spent half the week in Barcelona where, apart from extra masses in the churches and apparently one procession, there is very little happening that is special.
Fortunately, we went to Zaragoza on Thursday and were treated to numerous amazing processions, drums, music and an incredibly festive (and non-touristy) atmosphere - one of my top travel experiences to date. We saw one much smaller procession in Pamplona on Good Friday but not much more for the week as we traveled through smaller towns north and west of Pamplona.
I'm going back this Easter Week and I'm, gasp, considering trading the Zaragoza experience for Valladolid (which I've heard is another amazing celebration). I'm traveling with three people who haven't seen any of these celebrations before. I want to experience the great processions again but also want my companions to be as amazed as I was the first time.
My question to those who have experienced these celebrations. Is Valladolid a good choice? Do the processions go all week or is there a particular day that is best (e.g. sermon of seven words and following procession)? Leon also seems to have large processions; would that be a better choice or not and why? What about Burgos or Salamanca? Is there a "best" day for each place? Would I be making a mistake to miss Zaragoza and focus on Castille y Leon?
Along the same line, is there a part of town that would be better for lodging (with an eye toward experiencing Holy Week)? Or, conversely, an area to avoid?
Thanks very much for your help