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Early Dinners in Girona and Toledo

We are taking two day trips, one from Barcelona to Girona and a week later one from Madrid to Toledo. We would like to take a train back to our base cities by 8 PM, but most restaurants just start serving around then. Does anyone have any suggestions for where we might find a good early dinner in each town. When we were in Italy it was impossible to find a restaurant that would open before 8 PM so this time we are trying to plan ahead. Thanks!

Posted by
27166 posts

I'm sorry that I have no specific suggestions for you. Spain actually eats later than Italy. You might just possibly find someone with a tapas spread set out by 6:30 or 7 PM in a touristy area. But the Toledo situation is made more difficult by the fact that it's a bit of a slog back to the Toledo train station.

It seemed to me that meal hours were a bit earlier in Catalunya, so something casual might be available in Girona in time to be of help. Maybe along or near the Rambla de la Llibertat, which is sort of the main drag on the old town side of the river.

In both cities you might ask at the tourist office. Honestly, what I did in Spain was have my main meal at lunchtime (well, their lunchtime--between 2 PM and 4 PM) so I didn't have to sit down to dinner at 9:30 PM (or worse). That's sort of frustrating on day-trips, though, because it eats up what could be sightseeing time.

Posted by
31 posts

Just Back from Spain! Went to both Girona and Toledo. Many places do serve food all day long but we also had our Main Meal from 2:00pm - 4:00 pm Menu del Dia are available in most restaurants. A 3 Course Lunch Starter, Entrée, Desert, with Wine or Beer for around 10-12 Euros. We took late trains back to Barcelona as well. In Gerona there are many Cafe's in the Main Square open all afternoon and evening serving food and snacks and drinks. The Train Station in Toledo also has a few Cafe's and Restaurants near by and The Train Station also has a Café. But the Better Restaurants are on top of the hill behind the medieval walls. Another great option for a daytrip is to Segovia about 30 minutes from Madrid. Lots of restaurants served food all day in Madrid as well including the big Mercados.

Posted by
2465 posts

In Girona's main tourist dining square, Plaza de la Independencia, you'll find them catering to as wide a swath of pocketbooks and preferences as possible so you might find dinner at any hour -- the least ersatz and oldest establishment on the plaza is
Casa Marieta
but even there the prices are crazy, although the menu choices are authentic-ish.

But why not do as the young fashionable locals do instead, and get gourmet sandwiches and tapas?
Surrounding the ice cream shop run by one of the brothers behind Celler Can Roca, called Rocambolesc,
are several other dessert spots and bakeries that have back rooms where you can get twee sandwiches
that are the equivalent of English high tea. Don't be shy (WASPy) about it, dive right in. People are nice, just assertive.
The ingredient quality and esthetics are superb, if the tables are a little crowded and noisy.

Save room for the signature item at the Rocambolesc, an ice cream sandwich that is like a sweet panini, their own invention, and pick a seasonal flavor and toppings. During holy week it was baked apple and cinnamon. Warm on the outside and cold in the middle -- a small, fleeting miracle. Truly.

If you're just doing the day trip to Toledo, don't spend your time sitting down to eat, save it for the sights and museums. Have an energy bar and a coffee. By the time you get back to your lodging in Madrid and freshen up, it will be the beginning of the dinner service -- after 9pm.

Posted by
5222 posts

Jc,

We enjoyed the tapas at El Trébol (for lunch) when we stayed in Toledo.

It's a small place with a nice patio & friendly service.

El Trébol (aka Cervecería Trébol)
is located on a side street close to the TI office, near Plaza Zocodover.
I'm not sure if they serve hot food all day though. We ate lunch there (twice), but I don't know what time they start serving hot food for dinner.

I agree with Acraven--- Ask at the TI office, I'm sure they will give you some ideas.

Something to consider...Toledo is only 30 minutes (via train) from Madrid, so you might consider eating dinner when you get back to Madrid ;-)

Better yet... If you have the time, stay overnight in Toledo & experience this beautiful city in the evening hours once all the hordes of tourists leave ;-)

Have a wonderful trip!

Edit to add: If you enjoy museums, make sure to go to the 'Museo de Santa Cruz', steps from El Trébol ;-)

Posted by
17 posts

Great advice and comments everyone...The fog is lifting and we can spend our time in both places to have the best times during our days in each. Unfortunately we don't have time to stay over in Toledo this trip but I appreciate that it would be a wonderful option. Maybe next trip...The Ice Cream shop and adjacent snack place in Girona sound wonderful and the advice to push our limits in Toledo and come back to Madrid for dinner makes a lot of sense as well. The value of this board is that people are great about generously and thoughtfully sharing real experiences and learnings. It makes going to places we have not been to before a lot less blind guess work and cuts the anxiety about the unknowns. Thanks again, all.

Posted by
2942 posts

Piece of advice... forget about "taking the train at 8pm back to Barcelona".... you'll be missing the ambiance of Girona in the evening, which is what Mediterranean cities are all about... delay that until 9pm -the last fast-train back to Barcelona

Posted by
7175 posts

I don't think late trains (10-11pm) are options from either. Have drinks at 6pm. Train at 8pm. Dinner at 10pm when back in BCN/MAD.

Posted by
2942 posts

train at 9pm (nine!)... in Barcelona by 9:40pm! It's the last fast-train for the day.So this allows for an early dinner somewhere in Girona.