Costa Brava Question

Hi Erin,

We are doing something similar the first week of October and I think we are just going to end up renting the car. I don't want to spend hours on a bus.

I really had my heart set on Cadaques, but we only have six nights to split with Barcelona. So, I have also been looking at Pallafrugel and Llafranc. For either of those locations I think you would want a car though also. I have seen mixed reviews on the severity of the road going out to Cadaques. Given that we have driven the Amalfi Coast (both the mountain road and the coastline road) I think that we would be fine, but again I feel like we might be shortchanged on time in the car vs sitting on the beach.

I am interested to see your responses, so I may bump this question again.

We took the bus from Figueres to Cadaques and return. Being from Colorado, with high mountain passes, the road didn't phase us (and we weren't driving!), but if you have concerns about your traveling companions, you might want to explore the boat option (and hope they don't get seasick!). My recollection is that Roses is on the flat.

This is a great question, and honestly, it doesn't have (for me) a clear winning answer.

One the one hand, driving around can be a nuisance, not only the roads of that area -particularly in August- are really busy, but also parking in the small villages and towns can be a nightmare (and expensive). On the other, a car/minivan would certainly give you the freedom to move about in that part of Catalonia. There are numerous things worth a visit, and without a car, it's rather cumbersome as buses -which are available- don't always conform to one's own schedule, if you know what I mean.

My advice would be: if you intend to mostly stay in one place and maybe make an escapade to ONE other town nearby, then stick to public transportation. Otherwise, if you intend to explore the area, a car is a must.

As per the road to Cadaqués (and a few others!), note you're driving in an area which is within a Natural Park (Cap de Creus), a protected area due to the exceptional biological, geological and scenic quality so the road has been adapted so as not to disturb it in excess. Yes it's a bit windy, but it's only for the last 15 miles or so and there's not much to it, it's a safe well paved and signaled road: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMXR4GRle0w (courtesy of our Russian visitors, that seem to be in love with this thing about dashboard cameras, lol!)

Should you choose to rent a car/minivan...

Places nearby worth paying a visit -Google each for more info... most have their own "visitors' site" :)

• Cap de Creus
• Empuries
• Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes
• Roses
• Figueres
• Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l'Empordà (for info: aiguamolls is Catalan, the local language, for 'wetlands')

... a bit beyond but worthwhile: Girona, Besalú and also three other nice medieval towns: Pals, Peratallada and Monells, they're relatively close to each other (video)

More info here: http://en.costabrava.org/

... and if you like music and classic arts, you can't miss dropping by the Festival Internacional del Castell de Perelada that runs for several weeks in July and August (note you need to purchase tickets in advance!)

For reference:

Map of roads in Catalonia
Routes in Catalonia

Enjoy!

PS: For added info, the county where Cadaqués is located is l'Alt Empordà... These are the counties of Catalonia, and for reference, Barcelona is located in the county of Barcelonès. Ah yes, we call them "comarques".

@April... not like the Costa Brava, but Tossa de Mar can be an alternative closer to Barcelona

... and for info, the bus Barcelona-Cadaqués is merely 3h30' but there's a faster option... a cosy fast train from Barcelona to Figueres (1h) and then a bus from Figueres to Cadaqués (1h). Note there are more buses from Figueres to Cadaqués than from Barcelona to Cadaqués. Or also take a taxi, Cadaqués is only 25 miles from Figueres, so it won't cost an arm and a leg.

@Enric,
Thank you so much for all of these great resources! The festival looks amazing! I guess my question still is, are there regular buses from the beach town of Palafrugel that will be able to take us to Besalu, Begur, and more importantly, Cadaques?

Thanks

Not directly -except for Begur-, you'd have to transfer either in Girona or Figueres -are the biggest cities in the area- and then take another bus, problem being of course, interconnecting buses do not necessarily depart in sync.

• For Begur there's a bus, departing from the station at Palafrugell: http://compras.moventis.es/en-GB Begur is very close to Palafrugell. You have several buses and the journey is under 20'
• For Besalú, you'd take a bus to Girona (1h15') http://compras.moventis.es/en-GB then another one from http://www.teisa-bus.com/en/information-services to Besalú (1h)
• For Cadaqués, you'd take a bus to Figueres (1h) http://compras.moventis.es/en-GB then another one from the same company to Cadaqués (1h)

For comparison: Palafrugell to Besalú by car is roughly 75' and to Cadaqués the same -but in another direction.

PS. Calella de Palafrugell, which is by the sea of course (and it's the cute one!), is about two miles from Palafrugell, which is another town -so to speak, actually, Calella de Palafrugell is sort of a neighbourhood. Buses above depart from Palafrugell... so you need to add the journey from one to the other in order to catch those buses, either by taxi, on foot or by a town commuter bus.

Day
1. Airport to Calella de Palafrugell
2. Day to Figueres, Empuries, Begur
3. Day to Besalu & Girona
4. Day to Cadaques, Port Lligat, San Pere de Rodes
5. Return to Barcelona

But yes, you really need a car. Too much wasted time otherwise. Plus lots of frustration I would think. The windy mountain section of road to Cadaques is not overly long and completely exposed, meaning you have distant views and no claustrophobic feelings.

Thanks! We are staying on the beach in Calella de Palafrugell so we would have to find a way to the bus station. I am thinking we may be do one day to Cadaques via bus and another trip to Begur/Pals since they are only short bus ride away (also seems like there is a closer bus station to the beach that may make this trip) . We are going with two kids, 10 & 12 and they will want to hang out at the beach a lot.

Is the road to Roses calmer ? Would not mind taking a pretty boat ride to Cadaques that way.