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Camino Question

Hi all,

My wife and I are planning to walk the Camino de Santiago next year in May. Unfortunately, we are not up to walking the entire distance and opting to do the last 115 KM.......Sarria to Santiago. We are planning to walk no more than 15 km per day and taking 10 or so days to cover the distance.

One of our proposed legs is Portomarin to Ventas de Naron, a distance of 13.6 km for the day. I can't find any accommodation in Ventas de Naron. Does anybody know any accommodation in this village? We would prefer non dormitory accommodation, hotel style of B&B if possible. If not, is there any other village close by along the Camino trail where we could stay?

Also, we are looking at having a rest day in either Melide or Arzua. Which would be more interesting to stay in?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice.

Russell.

Posted by
248 posts

We were only in each for a night but Melide, although bigger with presumably more services didn't impress. I think i'd go for Arzua as a place to be for a day.

Posted by
172 posts

Wonderful experience to walk the camino. My wife and I have walked all or part of the Camino every summer for the last four years. May is the best time to go. We are in our mid 60s and usually walked about 15-18 km a day.

I strongly recommend that you don’t over plan your Camino and have every night booked. Most pilgrims just let it happen and go without any reservations at all. There is a middle way. At the end of each day, after checking into our accommodation and taking a shower, we look at the guide book and decide how far to go the next day depending on how we feel. Then we phone and make a reservation for the next night. So you have both flexibility and the assurance of a place to stay.

That works if you use the convenient albergues along the Camino. You don’t have to sleep in a dorm bed. Most albergues have a few private rooms as well as dorm rooms. You do have to use a shared bathroom, but they are clean and well kept. Most albergues have common lounges, dining areas or courtyards and the interaction with other pilgrims from all over the world is one of the best experiences of the Camino.

Ventas de Naron has two good albergues and both have private rooms. If you really must stay in a hotel or bnb it is possible to take an inexpensive taxi to an off route accommodation then taxi back the next day to resume your walk.

Most people use a rest day to explore the sights of a major city like Pamplona or Leon. You shouldn’t need it for actually resting. What we prefer to do for a rest day is to just walk half our normal day. After a leisurely breakfast we will walk just two or three hours and take the afternoon off. The morning is the best time of the day for walking and you still have a relaxing afternoon to explore a town.

Extra time in Santiago will be better than a whole day in Melide or Azura. Hope this helps.

Posted by
45 posts

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate your thoughts and opinions.

Posted by
8943 posts

You will have so much fun. I spent 9 days walking from Sarria, just taking it easy, as had already walked close to 300km of the Camino.

I stayed in Casa Molar in Ventas de Naron. DZ was 30€, but I stayed in the dorm room for 10€. Pilgrim menu was 9€, but these prices are all from 2 years ago. They did laundry for a small group of us, which was nice. Beautiful setting, friendly hosts.

Another favorite albergue was Morgade, which is only about 13-14km out of Sarria. Super hosts, beautiful stone building, good food, and pretty scenery. They have DZ or a room with just 6 single beds.

In Sarria, have a meal or maybe even stay over night at Mattias. Probably the best meal on the Camino for 10€. Super friendly Italian hosts.

Melide may be your best town as I think it is larger with more restaurants. Lots of delicious pulpo here and a pretty, old church attended by lots of pilgrims. I was in a non-descript, municipal type albergue. Nothing to write home about.

If it was me, I would save your rest day for when you get to Santiago since none of your days are going to be that strenuous. If you can get a room at the Hospederia San Martin, the huge monastery right next to the cathedral, do so. You will probably need a reservation here but the rooms are quiet and the dining room is a treat with better food on their pilgrim menu than you might expect. If you have this extra day, you can do a day long bus tour to Muxxia and Fisterra for about 39-40€. It was well worth it.

Are you on any of the Camino websites, forums, or FB pages? They are a treasure trove of information.
Buen Camino!

Posted by
45 posts

Thanks for the reply Ms. Jo. I am right to say DZ is a double room?

Posted by
8943 posts

Yes, sorry about that. I was reading from my Camino guide book which is in German. DZ is a double room.

Posted by
45 posts

Thanks again Ms Jo..........can I run a possible itinerary past you to see what you think (or anybody else reading this)? Remember, we are not big walkers, want to take our time.

Day 1 - Sarria to Morgade (12.3 km) - casa Morgade

Day 2 - Morgade to Portomarin (10.8 km) - Hotel Ferramenteiro de Port

Day 3 - Portomarin to Ventas de Naron (13.6 km) - Casa Molar

Day 4 - Ventas de Naron to Palas de Rei (12.0 km) - Pension Palas

Day 5 - Palas de Rei to Melide (15.0 km) - Hotel Xaneiro

Day 6 - Melide to Arzua (14.8 km) - casa Teodora

Day 7 - Arzua to Salceda (11.3 km) - Albergue Turishco

Day 8 - Salceda to Pedrouza (7.7 km) - ?????

Day 9 - Pedrouza to Lavacolla (10.2 km) - casa de Amancio

Day 10 - Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela (10.6 km) - casa de la Inmaculada or Hospederia San Martin

Russell.

Posted by
6546 posts

On your way into Santiago make sure you stop at the pilgrim statue at Monte de Gozo just outside of town. From it you can see the cathedral in the distance. There’s also a statue commemorating a trip by the pope there, but it is very unimpressive. Also, the oldest wayside cross in Galicia is in Melide (cruceiro de Melide) beside the chapel of San Roque. It’s just a photo op, but you walk right past it. Prior to entering Melide and also on the Camino is Santa Maria de Leboreiro. It’s nothing more than a hamlet. It just off the N547 and is like walking back in time.