I just completed 100 miles or so of the Camino Frances at the end of January. The Camino presents some challenges in winter but the solitude is worth it. For anyone contemplating the Way, here are my suggests.
- Get the John Brierley guide and sign up on the Camino Forum. Between the two there is everything you will need to plan your trip and prepare logistically, physically, and mentally.
- Walk by yourself if you can. Regardless of your religious persuasion there is something spiritual about a solitary walk. The Camino Frances has very little traffic in winter and I found it life changing. Many pilgrims are lone women and the Forum has good information on that.
- Many albergues, restaurants, and entire towns along the Frances are closed in winter due to the light foot traffic but enough are open to support the pilgrims. Every section of the Brierley guide that I walked had open albergues and hotels at the suggested stopping points.
- The Camino Frances is for people of all ages and abilities. I am 54, of average health and athletic ability and did not find it ridiculously taxing. I selected Astorga to Portomarin for it's remoteness and natural beauty. It is both the highest and steepest parts of the entire Camino and again, very doable. You should definitely pack light but if you can't carry a pack there are services that will transport your pack from town to town. Also, you can ship luggage to Santiago from any post office (Lista de Correos) so you have the option to finalize your pack when you get there and send your travel clothes and non-essentials along.
- As an avid Rick Steves reader I am not too focused on luxury accommodations but having spent 3 nights in the pilgrim albergues I would say that even for 5 euros they were a little basic for my taste. It's true that they are a great way to bond with fellow pilgrims but the snoring is almost indescribable (even with ear plugs) and you will definitely meet people along the Way.
- Also, I would like to dispel the rumor that the Xunta albergues in Galicia had co-ed bathrooms with no shower curtains. The one I stayed at had a half shower curtain....
- There are great two and three star hotels in almost every town that for 35-50 euros, with 9-12 euro pilgrim meals, are fantastic. I carried Rick's Camino section of the Spain guide and as usual his recommendations on hotels and restaurants were spot on.
- Virtually every town is connected by bus and many moderate sized towns connected by train to major gateways. Rome2Rio is a great resource.
- To Rick's suggested walks along the Camino I would add Samos to Aguiada. The Samos monastery is incredible in itself. About 2km south of Samos the trail leaves the main road and you experience about 8km of the most beautiful countryside I saw on my entire Camino.
I hope this is helpful and Buen Camino.