Hello
My husband and I will be flying into Bilbao the end of May. We plan to spend 2 nights in Bilbao getting acclimated and seeing the city and then renting a car and traveling to the towns and villages of the Basque region. We have never been to this part of Spain or France and would like to get a test of both. We have 9 days before returning the car and flying back home to the US from Bilbao. What are the recommendations for a home base or perhaps one for each country? We like out of the way places not glitzy or touristy. We are foodies and love to hike and sight see. Would Handarribia be a nice base for Spain to do day trips, pintxos hop in San Sebastián and perhaps get a tour guide for one day and then perhaps Hendaye for France ? Or are they too close? I know Rick Steves was pretty hyped about St-Jean-de-Luz but other reviews were not so great. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance. Jaime
We like out of the way places not glitzy or touristy
See if you can fit the Baztan Valley into your trip. It is a Basque area but part of Navarra. You could go Bilbao, San Sebastian, San Juan de Luz, then circle up through Baztan, staying in Elizondo, and then finishing off back in Bilbao. If you have nice weather in Elizondo you should go to the Izpegi pass for a lunch. You can sit outside having lunch and enjoy the incredible views of the Pyrenees.
San Sebastian is nice, but I prefer San Juan de Luz. You can skip Hendaye.
Hondarribia is a beautiful town and close to Donostia-San Sebastian, and also full of pintxos bars (as all the Basque Country, Bilbao too). In fact, the winner bar of most pintxos contests, Gran Sol, is in Hondarribia. Hendaye is not that interesting, but also a nice town, you can cross the river to get there on the boat that departs several times per hour from Hondarribia. Baiona-Bayonne would be my choice for a day visit in the French Basque Country, also St Jean de Luz (great food market).
There is a lovely walk along the coast: https://www.bilbaoturismo.net/BilbaoTurismo/en/way-of-st-james---northern-route. The stretch between Deba and Zumaia is especially dramatic.
The coastal walk from San Sebastian to Pasaia is lovely--orchids may be in bloom when you are there (my trip was also late May).
We also did some nice walks near Mundaka-Bermeo (nice wetlands here--I'd like to go back and kayak) and at Elantxobe.
All of these places are not terribly far from one another, so I'd just start looking at accommodations and see what catches your eye. Pick the ones that appeal the most and then pick somewhere convenient to all. If course food is excellent in this area but Getaria is especially noted : https://www.eater.com/23078265/getaria-spain-guide-grilled-fish-basque-country
I am all for changing bases for a different flavor at night, but Hondarribia and Hendaye are literally walking distance apart, so I would look somewhere further west for your Spain base.
I did not get to the French side.
We used St-Jean de Luz and Hondarribia as bases for both Basque areas, France and Spain.
We liked St-Jean de Luz but loved the French Basque villages such as Saré, Ascain, Ainhoa and more. Do not miss visiting them!
In Spain we enjoyed visiting Hondarribia, Bilbao, Getaria and San Sebastian. We had a wonderful lunch in Getaria but do not recall the name.
In Getaria, the restaurant for food-lovers is ELKANO, one of Span's legendary seafood restaurants.
We used Hondarribia as our base and explored both San Sebastian and various French Basque locations from there. It's a perfect base, in my opinion.
We just change hotels every couple days. Along the north coast in that area we stayed in Santillana del Mar, Hondarrbia, and Bayonne before moving on to Pamplona.
Totally agree with @MikelBasqueGuide both in terms of Hondaribbia being a great base for the Basque country, Spanish and French, and in recommending Gran Sol. It is 100% worth going to Hondaribbia if only to eat at Gran Sol (multiple times, if possible!!). San Sebastian is easily accessible from Hondaribbia as are the French Basque villages of Sare, Ainhoa and Espelette; St. Jean de Luz; and the wonderful outdoor museum of Chillida-Leku.