Barcelona--Modernista Architecture

Casa Lleo Morera is closed as far as I know.

Casa Batllo is an important site but was extremely crowded in August. It appeared that the owners were willing to cram in as many people as could physically fit. I hope conditions are better for you, because this is an expensive ticket.

Casa Mila has a lot of information about other Gaudi buildings on the top floor near the end of the tour, including brief videos of some located in other cities. If you're seriously interested in the modernista sites, don't skip this one and allow plenty of time. I think I was in there for about three hours and I could have used a bit more time.

Sant Pau was wonderful because there were incredibly few visitors there in August. It's a multi-building site, so you'll be outdoors for a bit. My timing wasn't right for an English-language tour so I used the audio guide. Be aware that the audio tour ends in the main building, where there's quite a bit to see. The map didn't make that clear and I almost ran out of time before I returned to the main building. Allow plenty of time.

Your list overlooks La Sagrada Familia, which I would consider a must-see and probably the #1 modernista sight.

MNAC (the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya) has a nice modernisme exhibit in addition to other fine holdings, including frescoes and architectural elements from medieval churches. It's definitely worth visiting if you can spare the time. It's large, so focus on what you most want to see. There's also a small Museu de Modernisme located not too far from Casa Batllo. It can be visited fairly quickly. When I took the Tourist Office's Modernism Tour, we had a brief (roughly 15-minute) stop there. While I would have liked more time, I saw enough that I decided not to return for a second visit.

Because each site takes a good bit of time (usually a minimum of 90 minutes or more even if you pre-purchase tickets and don't have to spend any time in line), you will probably have to trim your list. With limited time I would skip the Casa Amatller, much of whose interior is pseudo-castle rather than modernist. I'd consider skipping Parc Guell, which is a bit out of the way, but I think others may disagree.

I opted to skip the Gaudi House Museum myself because guidebooks led me to believe that it was less interesting than some of the other sites.

The Modernisme Route, a guide produced and sold by the Barcelona municipality lists only 115 sites. Of those, 30 are "stars." The 3 major Moderisme architects were Gaudi, Puig i Cadafalch and Domenech i Montaner (the locals use the full last names except for Gaudi). I much prefer "Montaner" and I'm saddened to learn that his Casa Lleo Morera has closed.

I'm pretty sure the Palau de la Musica performances are generally sold out. Anyway, you see more with the tour. Sometimes tours sell out at this time of year, but you should be able to pick up tickets for a later tour on the same day. I'd put this at the top of my list.

Sant Pau is an easy 10-15 minute walk from La Sagrada Familia along Gaudi Ave past lots of cafes, so I'd plan to see them one after the other.

I'd consider seeing Casa Amatller, because it was designed by the "third" architect. Even if you don't visit, do go into the vestibule, it's lovely.

For a better appreciation of modernisme, first take the TI's modernisme guided tour. It will open your eyes to all the bits you will inevitably walk past in Barcelona and probably not see otherwise.

As I hinted, I'm not a Gaudi fan, so I've only been to La Sagrada Familia.

Serious fans of modernista architecture will be glad to have the Ruta de Modernisme book and map (purchased on weekdays from an office located not too far from the Ramblas) which confer discounts at many of the sites Most city maps mark the locations of the key modernista sites, but they aren't specifically identified as such.

FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN SOME CULTURAL BACKGROUND...

It has to be mentioned that in Catalan, the local culture here in Catalonia, people are named after both parents... thus one's name is: first-name last-name-of-the-father "i" (and) last-name-of-the-mother. This avoids confusion when you're referring to someone. Thus, the architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch -mentioned above by Chani- is referred to as "Puig i Cadafalch" because "Puig" is a rather common last name here in Catalonia and there are plenty of Josep Puig. Same goes with Lluïs Domènech i Montaner. In the case of having a less common last name, it's all right to refer to that person using only his/her last-name-of-the-father (ie. Antoni Gaudí... which btw, for those curious, his proper name is Antoni Gaudí i Cornet).

Equally important, especially to those dice to shorten foreign names without knowing what can and can't be shortened!, it's best to apply the saying "When in Rome...." thus, if a person/place/site name is published in the long form... USE IT! when you're referring to it or else (1) you can get the wrong advice or (2) locals we don't know what you are referring to as your shortening is either confusing or makes nosense whatsoever. Reasons for (1)... ie. in Catalonia there are quite a few towns with the word "Vilanova" which is Catalan for "new town" (ie Vilanova i la Geltrú, Vilanova del Camí, Vilanova de Bellpuig, Vilanova de la Barca, etc), if you don't use the full name when asking for directions.... well you see where I'm going, right?

Enjoy your visit!

In addition to going inside some of the ones you listed, be sure to walk around and see the outsides of some of the ones not open to the public. The don't-miss exterior for me is the Casa Comalat; it's front address is Avinguda Diagonal 442, but the rear façade on Carrer Còrsega is the special one. Here's the photo from Wikipedia, but as always, photos don't do it justice: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Modernista_buildings_in_Barcelona#/media/File:Salvador.Valeri.i.Pupurull.Casa_Comalat.Back.Barcelona.JPG

If you click on the X on the upper right of that photo to close it, you'll get a list of Modernista buildings in Barcelona. Start plotting them on a map and you'll see that many are close to one another, so you can see them on a nice walk.

I agree with getting to the Casa Batllo early. I loved it, and actually felt it was worth the high entrance fee.

The Hospital Sant Pau is also very worthwhile and not crowded. And the Palace of Catalan Music is a real star.

I haven't been to Casa Mila, but want to go on my next trip. On my 1995 trip, I went to Sagrada Familia and Park Guell, and I'm afraid neither one impressed me then. I know a LOT of work has been done on Sagrada Familia since then, so I do intend to see it on my next Barcelona trip. All of the Gaudi sights are extremely crowded; one advantage of seeing things designed by other architects is that they are much less crowded (even the Palace of Catalan Music had some same-day tour tickets available). You also avoid Gaudi overload by seeing a variety of architects.

I almost forgot to mention the Arc de Triomf, which is both beautiful and free to see!

Harold , just looked at the Casa Comalat photo - must go back !

1 Visit Hospital Sant Pau when you go to Sagrada Familia. Its within walking distance.
2 Book ahead for Palau de la Musica Catalana tours if you can't get concert ticxkets
3 Casa Batllo + Casa Lleó Morera + Casa Amatller make up the famous Block of Discord on Passeig de Gràcia
4 Casa Mila (La Pedrera) is found close by, also on Passeig de Gràcia
5 Gaudi House Museum is at Park Guell
6 Palau Guell is just off the Ramblas at the port end and is only a quick visit

Most people choose only one of either Casa Mila or Casa Batllo to visit inside.

Another one that will attract your attention as you drive/walk by is Casa de les Punxes on Avinguda Diagonal.
Along with the Arc de Triomf at Parc de la Ciutadella, you will also see Castell dels tres Dracs.
And, of course, you can dine at Casa Calvet.

Therapist to Chani: "So what is it that you don't like about Antoni Gaudi? Is it personal?"

Juli, I spent about a week in Barcelona this past April, and visited almost all of the buildings/sites mentioned here, and thought I would share my own anecdotal experiences.
1. I think my personal favorites were the Palau de Musica Catalan, where I both took a tour and on a later evening attended a Flamenco performance, both excellent, and the cafe was also very pleasant and affordable; and also the Hospital Sant Pau, where I took the English tour (just a Belgian couple and me) through the various buildings and grounds; it was amazing to me that such an incredibly lovely facility had been endowed specifically to be a hospital serving the poorest residents of the city.
2. Also Sagrada Familia, certainly spectacular, if quite overwhelming; I found the interior lovely (also spectacular and overwhelming) but the exterior quite cluttered and not so pleasing (although still spectacular and overwhelming). My schedule allowed me to attend a "castellers -- human towers" practice performance right outside Sagrada Familia, great photos at that time, with the huge church in the background.
3. I went to Casa Batllo one morning, and then learned about and took advantage of a special evening ticket for Casa Mila another day, this included a very nice dinner in the associated restaurant next door, a special tour of the house including a glass of champagne or juice almost at the end, and then finishing in the dark on the roof with all the spires illuminated with various colored lights and graphics (a very different perspective tour, worth the extra cost).
4. I visited Park Guell the first morning after I arrived from my long flights from California, when I figured it might be good to be outside. A nice visit. Then I walked down through the more "small town" neighborhood of Gloria, stopped at my B & B for a short rest and went off for a wonderful early evening food tour with "Taste Barcelona" -- great first day.
5. I also went to Palau Guell downtown, an earlier and more serious Gaudi work, lots of wood and paneling, much darker atmosphere. (I was told that the Guell family also found the house quite dark, and because of this later moved to Park Guell.) I did not find this a quick visit, and getting tired, I almost skipped the roof, but was glad I did not because it was quite spectacular. It was almost as if Mr. Guell told Gaudi what kind of austere house he wanted, but let Gaudi play around and do his own thing on the roof! By the way, it was time to eat something, and 2 different Palau staff gave me the same tip to go to Tapas Guell, across the street and down the block a few buildings, which was very good and affordable.
6. Finally, while not a modernist site, if you enjoy world cultures I really liked the "Museu de las Cultures del Mon" (Museum of World Cultures) also downtown and very near the Picasso Museum. It has a limited and beautifully displayed collection of art from Africa, Asia, Oceania, Mayan, etc., just my thing. By the way, it was the lovely Russian girl working in the bookstore there who steered me to the evening dinner tour at Casa Mila. She evidently was on-call for work at several museum sites in Barcelona.
Enjoy wonderful Barcelona! As well as some of the nearby Catalan spots -- I enjoyed Tarragona, Girona, Figueres (Dali Museum) as well as a "Medieval Villages Tour" to Besalu, Rupit and Tavernet -- all wonderful !!!

The exterior of the Casa de les Punxes is certainly worth seeing, but I thought the tour (complete with fantasy-style audiovisual experience related to the story of St. George and the Dragon) a bore and a waste of my time. There's little if any of the original modernist decor remaining in the interior.