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Asturias over the Christmas holiday

Hello-
We are a family of 6 adults (3 pairs) traveling to Asturias from Barcelona over the Christmas holiday. Our thought is to bookend Barcelona, spending a few days in Barcelona at the beginning and end (our daughter lives there), and then using the days in the middle to travel through Asturias with the idea of visiting the town where my husband's grandfather was born (Cudillero).

I have a few questions:
Flying from Barcelona to Asturias seems the best way to go, but is it smart to rent a car that fits all 6 of use while in Asturias to travel around? European cities are not usually good for American-sized cars, and I would think we would need a van or SUV-type vehicle.

Now what to do while in the region in the winter for 4-6 days? Which cities to visit? We are looking for cultural experiences as well as gorgeous scenery. The caves in Rupestre are interesting to everyone - we'd like to see those. But would winter weather hold us back from visiting any place in particular?
Any advice would be welcome. Thank you in advance.

Posted by
3874 posts

Hello! I think you have picked a fantastic (and underappreciated) region of Spain to explore. I would also add some sites in next door Cantabria into the mix too. By late December there should be settled snow in most of the high mountain areas, and it gets worse as Jan, Feb, and March roll by. I would stick closer to the coast and valleys. The high mountains, like the Picos de Europa, may be tough to drive in the winter months.

With 6 people I think the best would to rent a mini van, you won't find many large SUVs in these parts. While it may be a bit tricky parking in the big city, a car will give you the most freedom in the countryside and smaller towns, where most of the sites will be. Going in taxi could prove chaotic as you will need two taxis.

I would base yourselves in the city of Oviedo - which is the capital of Asturias, it's about 45 min south-east of Cudillero by car. It's known for its Gothic medieval old center and elegant 19th century architecture. Oviedo is apparently Woody Allen's favorite city in Spain. For comparison, this is how Oviedo looks during the mid-winter months: Winter-Oviedo

Some ideas for day-trips for 4-6 days:

  • Covadonga: known as the "cradle of Spain", a pilgrimage site dedicated to the Battle of Covadonga of 718 AD which set off the Reconquista. There is also a Holy Cave, where lies Kings Pelagius and Alfonso I, the first kings of Asturias. There are some hiking trails here that leads to some mountain lakes which may or may-not be doable in the winter.

  • Drive along the coast: The rugged coastline between Asturias and Cantabria is very scenic with many charming seaside villages and seaports. One unique seaside town is Comillas which has some pretty interesting Art Nouveau architecture, with some buildings designed by the famous architect Antoni Gaudí. San Vicente de la Barquera is another beautiful seaside town worth visiting.

  • Altamira caves: UNESCO world heritage site located near Santillana del Mar with numerous Paleolithic cave paintings. The real caves are closed to the public but there is a pretty good replica cave and museum there too.

  • Santillana del Mar: Well preserved medieval town in the Cantabrian region. Known for its medieval towers, Renaissance villas and the Romanesque Santa Juliana Collegiate Church. You can visit Altamira and Santillana del Mar on the same day due to their proximity.

Hope this gives you a few ideas! :)

Posted by
38 posts

Hi Carlos-
Thanks so much for your reply and for your great suggestions. I have certainly added Santillana del Mar to our list and also Covadonga for day trips from our home base in Oviedo. Do you believe that that the Altamira cave museum is worth the trip if we can't see the actual caves, just able to see exhibits of the caves? Have you ever been to the Tito Bustillo cave in Ribadasella? Also a day trip to A Coruna?
Thanks again.

Posted by
3874 posts

Hello-

I have not been to the Tito Bustillo cave in Ribadasella, but it looks very interesting too and appears that one is able to enter the actual caves.

I did like the Altamira cave museum, it's very modern and has the actual artifacts found in the caves on display. The reconstructed cave was very well done and felt authentic. Since it's right next door to Santillana del Mar (2.5 km), maybe you could just visit the Altamira museum after seeing Santillana del Mar, skip the reconstructed cave, and then see the Tito Bustillo cave on your way back or on another day?

I have not been to Galicia yet, so I can't comment on A Coruña, I know others on this forum have visited Galicia, so they may be able to answer that question. It seems like quite a drive to A Coruña though, for a day trip, at around 3 hrs each way.

Posted by
38 posts

Thank you again. I think you're probably right about A Coruna - too far away although I have read reviews from other travelers and it is worth a trip some day.
Another question: we will most likely be flying into Oviedo on New Years Eve, renting a car and then driving to our accommodations. I do worry about holidays in Europe - since they are often taken more seriously than we do here - meaning many things may be closed. My fear is that we won't find places to eat at for a day or two over NYE and then New Years Day. Do you have experience with these holidays in Spain in Asturias?

Posted by
3874 posts

I have not spent New Years in Oviedo specifically, but in general for Spain, New Years Eve (nochevieja) is a big celebration, with fun and partying going on well into the morning. On New Years Eve restaurants will be open with many hotels and restaurants organising special celebrations that includes food and dancing.

During the New Year's Day, while most shops and businesses will be closed, I would say that one can still find some restaurants open in the larger towns and cities, especially in the more touristy old centers.

The most famous New Year’s Eve tradition in Spain is eating 12 grapes, one for each gong at midnight and drinking a bottle of Cava, many people will congregate in the local plaza to celebrate this tradition together.

During the Christmas time, we also have a tradition of eating Turrón – a nougat-like sweet. I would be on the look out to buy some when you are in Spain, if you would like to partake in some of the traditional treats. For sure, one can pick them up at the local Corte Inglés.

Posted by
26840 posts

Iiked A Coruna, but it is really too far for a day-trip. You might consider Gijon. It's a coastal city, and I remember reading somewhere that it's where the Oviedo folks go for excitement. Gijon has a small historic district and a downtown area that I enjoyed for its late-19th-century/early-20th-century buildgings.