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Andalucia in November/December Suggestions?

Hello,
My wife and I are planning a trip to Southern Spain. We are looking forward to enjoying the culture, history and food of the region. I was hoping someone could provide feedback on our itinerary and any "must-sees."
Seville - 4 days (Day Trip to Cordoba, Alcazar, ...?)
Ronda - 3 days (Exploring the countryside, relaxing)
Granada - 4 days (Alahambra, Generalife, hiking the Sierra Nevadas)
Madrid - 3 Days (San Bernabeau, ...?)
Would me miss out by not visiting Costa del Sol or Malaga?

Would you suggest rearranging the amount of time spent at each location?

Posted by
7329 posts

We were in Madrid and to the north 2 Novembers ago. Bring a jacket -- while it was downright cold farther north, it was still cool in Madrid. It was also surprising how late the sun came up in the morning that time of year! We had an apartment for a whole week in Madrid, but made day trips to Toledo, El Escorial, and Segovia, so if you stay in the city the whole time, 3 days could work just fine for a short visit.

For food, two outstanding places in the La Latina neighborhood of Madrid are Juana La Loca (superior tapas!), and Taberna Rayuela (finely prepared Spanish dishes, some with an international twist). The Museo de Jamon (several locations in Madrid) is the place for jamon sandwiches and other dishes. If you go late at night, you'll be rubbing elbows with a ton of hungry/thirsty locals. Be sure to have churros con chocolate some time on your trip; Granada and Madrid both have excellent places.

You'll be in Madrid during Zarzuela season! We booked our tickets before leaving the USA, but locals showed up just before curtain time and got seats from the box office. In addition to the magnificent Prado art museum, we were really impressed by the 700 years worth of excellent art at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you for the recommendations Cyn. We will add them to our itinerary!

Posted by
23243 posts

Keep in mind that time of year it can be very chilly, rainy, and we hit some snow in the same time period a few years ago. So be prepared with wet and cold weather gear. Weather conditions could affect hiking in the Sierra Nevadas. Southern Spain is not south Florida or even northern Florida.

Posted by
7175 posts

November/December is neither hiking nor beach time unfortunately - enjoy more time in Madrid's museums, and spend some time in Cordoba.
Cordoba - 2 days
Seville - 3 days
Ronda - 2 days
Granada - 3 days
Madrid - 4 days

Posted by
513 posts

Hello Michael,

I agree with David. I think Cordoba is well worth two full days and nights. A day trip doesn't do the city justice. Also, and I am sure this will infuriate many of the Spain Board regulars, I feel 2 days is more than enough for Ronda and vicinity - if you have seen one white village, you have seen them all... I also agree that given your amount of available time, I would allocate four days for Madrid and three for Granada.

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you everyone. Based on feedback, I think we will change it to:

Madrid - 4 days
Seville - 3 days
Ronda - 2 days
Granada - 3 days
Cordoba - 2 days

A few other questions...

Regarding transportation, does anyone have any tips/tricks for the following legs: Madrid -> Seville, Granada -> Cordoba, Cordoba -> Madrid? We are planning on renting a car after Seville for the countryside. For other legs previously mentioned, we are planning on using the train or bus. Buy tickets ahead of time? Or are tickets the price if we buy the day of?

Does anyone have experience buying soccer tickets, specifically for Seville or Granada? Is it possible to buy them the day of? The websites aren't very helpful... :(

Are there any hotels that you absolutely recommend? We plan on doing 3 value hotels, 1 Airbnb (mainly to do laundry), and 1 5-star hotel. It seems that Cordoba and Granada have the nicest hotels for the cost.

Posted by
565 posts

Madrid to Seville and Cordoba to Madrid are easy train trips, both routes have frequent trains and do not take long. Granada to Cordoba by train involves a switch in trains, so I would recommend the bus, which is a direct non-stop or one-stop route.

The earlier you buy your tickets on RENFE, the better, although you may not buy them any earlier than 90 days in advance. For some routes, 90 days is still too far in advance and the website asks you to check back later. The discounts are deeper the earlier you buy. The RENFE website can be tricky for non-Spanish speakers to use, but this website offers tips. You may not use a non-Spanish credit card to buy tickets in advance on the RENFE website. You may, however, use your PayPal account.

It is not necessary to buy bus tickets in advance. Just know that the bus does not have a toilet, and the trip is about 2.5 hours.

Edit: I am also able to give you a link to AirBnbs in Seville and Madrid. All have washing machines.

Posted by
7175 posts

High speed AVE train runs Madrid >> Cordoba >> Sevilla.
Ronda is a cross country hike and best done Sevilla >> Ronda >> Granada (or vice versa).
What are your plans for arriving and departing flights?
The easiest logistics would be to start/finish in Madrid/Granada.

Posted by
11294 posts

To learn how to book on the Renfe website, I found this guide on TripAdvisor invaluable: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g187514-c80518/Madrid:Spain:Buying.Renfe.Tickets.Online.html

The best tip was to use PayPal rather than a credit card to pay. My credit card did not go through (the transaction never even got to my credit card company to be rejected), but PayPal was quick and worked.

If you are taking a route that requires connections (for instance, I went from Toledo to Barcelona, which requires changing trains in Madrid), research options on the Bahn website http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/en. For some reason, Renfe only showed two connections all day, when I knew from Bahn that there were many; I had to book this route as two separate tickets.

I joke that booking on Renfe was easy, once I used, in one way or another, five websites (Renfe, Rick Steves, PayPal, TripAvisor, and Bahn). So no, it isn't straightforward, but it does work, and the savings are worth it.

Posted by
15576 posts

If you are flying round-trip Madrid, and your flight arrives fairly early in the day, start in Cordoba. You can take the train from the airport to Madrid's Atocha station and then have a 2-hour train ride to Cordoba. Then finish your trip in Madrid, so you have easy access to the airport for your (potentially early) flight home. If you do that, then take the train or bus from Granada to Madrid. Otherwise Cordoba is as good a place to end as any, especially if you are flying home from Seville. If you have an afternoon or evening flight home from Madrid, it's doable.

It's much better to plan for nights than days. If you plan for 3 full days in Granada, for instance, you need 4 nights there. You "lose" almost 1/2 day with every move - packing, checking out, getting to train station, waiting for train, then the reverse and getting oriented to the new town.

Transportation - get a car when you leave Seville, drive through the pueblos blancos to Ronda, spend a day seeing the sights in Ronda, then drive to Granada and return the car. For the rest, the trains are better. The trains aren't currently getting all the way to Granada because of works on the tracks. Renfe has buses that take you from the train station in Granada to the train station nearest Granada, where you connect to the train to your destination. It's about as easy as taking the bus non-stop. If you're going to Cordoba, the bus and train stations are next door to each other. In Granada the bus station is not much farther from the center than the train station, only a few euros more by taxi. If you are going to Madrid, it may be easier to take the train and arrive at the main train station which is also a metro station.

Madrid - Hotel Europa. It's modern, comfortable, central, walking distance to the Prado and Thyssen, just meters from the metro and Cercanias (suburban train) stop, the HOHO bus stop.

Seville - Amadeus Hotel in the Juderia. Great hotel, great location.

Posted by
11294 posts

If you want something in Madrid less expensive than the Hotel Europe, I just had a nice stay at the Hostal Acapulco. It's in a very convenient location, the building has an elevator, and it was only €53 per night for a single. No breakfast, but a few doors down is a place serving inexpensive breakfasts. http://www.hostalacapulco.com/