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advice/help with 15.5 day itinerary of Spain for spring '15...first real Spain trip!

Hello to all...

Currently in the midst of planning out my first real solo trip to Spain not including a couple days spent in Madrid over twenty years ago on my way to Italy.

With the somewhat extensive research I've done so far and approximately fifteen days plus for actual travel throughout the country, I've come up with a general idea for an itinerary that's pretty thorough if not maybe a bit too ambitious.

I may need to fine tune it a bit and have come here for assistance in a similar way that I did this past spring when I was planning a two week trip to Japan.

Keep in mind that on these types of trips since I am traveling solo and that I don't really mind squeezing as much as I can into a relatively limited amount of time.

I generally don't mind the movement from place to place much though I'm also thinking I'd like to do this Spain trip at not too frenzied of a pace so that I can take in the places I do visit at a slightly more relaxed pace.

At the same time I'd like to see as much of the core places I plan to see and squeeze as much as possible in to get the most travel experience bang for my buck.

All this being said here are the cities I plan to visit in 15.5 days of travel in late May into early June of 2015.

Overnight flight from NYC into Madrid arriving approx 6:30 am on a Friday morning.

Planning to spend the following 3 days/nites in Madrid seeing as much art and sights of the capital city,

From Madrid I then plan to head down to Toledo via AVE train for a day and possibly an overnight on the 4th day.

Day 5 from Toledo to Seville via AVE for 2 days/2 nights.

Day 7 was planning to go from Seville to Valencia for 1 day/1 night on the way to Barcelona but now thinking about forgoing Valencia and heading from Seville to Granada for 2 days/2 nights instead since I would really like to visit La Alhambra perhaps a bit more than seeing Valencia this time around.

Day 9 train or flight from Granada to Barcelona for either 2 days/2 nights or 3 days/3 nights though I feel I could probably keep Barcelona to 2 days/nights.

Day 11 morning train from Barcelona to Figueres & Cadaques to take in the Dali museum and residence.

Later on Day 11 make my way via trains from Figueres over to San Sebastián for 3 nights/2 days taking into consideration that I don't want to be there on a Sunday or Monday when all the primary eating establishments will more than likely be closed.

Morning of day 14 train from San Sebastián down to Salamanca to culminate the trip for 2 nights/1 day leaving from Salamanca back to Madrid via morning train on day 15 to catch an early evening flight at 5pm back home to NYC.

So I know Spain is a very vast and diverse country but am I crazy to think that this itinerary is still doable in this amount of time?

I realize it's a lot of traveling around but I feel it's important for me to get in a visit to Basque Country for some serious gastronomy in San Sebastián in addition to the two major cities and a bit of Andalusia.

So the layout as it stands now is:

Day 1-3 Madrid

Day 4 Toledo

Day 5-6 Seville

Day 7-8 Granada

Day 9-10 Barcelona

Day 11 Figueres day trip

Day 12-13 San Sebastián

Day 14-15 Salamanca

Day 16 leave from Madrid back to NYC early evening 5pm.

I would greatly appreciate any and all input, suggestions, revisions, additions or subtractions/changes from experienced Spain travelers and Spanish locals/residents in regards to this itinerary as well as any travel/train/flight/sights/accommodation and food tips for the cities listed.

Thank you to all in advance and Happy Holidays!

Sincerely,

Peter B.

Posted by
4535 posts

For the most part a pretty good itinerary for your travel style. A few comments or suggestions:

As much as I love Valencia over Granada, La Alhambra is not-to-miss so I concur with your decision to go to Granada instead. And flying from there to Barcelona makes the most sense. FYI there are more bus options from Sevilla to Granada than there are trains in case you want a better schedule. Travel time is the same. You might also consider stopping in Cordoba on your way from Toledo to Sevilla, even if for just a few hours to see the Mezquita. You can store bags at the bus station across from the train station and it's a 20-30 minute walk from there. Well worth it.

Figueres is an easy train ride from Barcelona and makes for a good daytrip. But Cadaques and Port Illgat are not easy to get to without a car. I don't recommend trying it by bus and am not sure you even could in just one day.

There is no direct train from Barcelona to San Sebastian unfortunately. IIRC, it is at least a 6 hour train journey. You might also consider a short flight to save some time.

If for some reason you wind up skipping San Sebastian, then I highly recommend adding Valencia back in. The food there is great and it's a very easy-going city.

Posted by
22 posts

Thank you Douglas for your advice and suggestions,
My original plan was to actually forego Granada altogether this time and head straight to Valencia from Seville after 3 days there but after thinking about how beautiful La Alhambra looks and being that it really looks like my kind of vibe in Granada I figured to scale back my Seville stay by one day from three to two and add two days in Granada and forego Valencia.
I love the idea and look of the modern architecture in Valencia and love paella as well but Granada just seems to be as you said...a not to be missed.
I guess now the other decision to consider as you mentioned is whether to forego San Sebastián for Valencia considering the longer and more involved travel it will take to go from Figueres to San Sebastián.
I realize they're both quite different towns with different attractions...more to do overall in Valencia though I've just heard so many great things about San Sebastián and it's cuisine and scenery that it almost sounds too nice to pass up.
I'm a big food person and both Anthony Bourdain and chef David Chang have gone on and on about the food in San Sebastián on their programs.
The other thing to take into consideration would be the weather since it will be the first week of June.
Also with San Sebastián, this itinerary moves in a circle around the country so it seemed like it would be an interesting way to tour Spain considering I planned to go from San Sebastián down to Salamanca and end where I started back in Madrid to fly back home.
I guess now the final decision is San Sebastián vs. Valencia...two days in one or the other.
Good thing I've got some time to decide.
Thank you again for the input,
Peter

Posted by
15784 posts

Since you get in so early in the morning, consider going straight to Toledo for 1 night, then heading to Seville with a stop in Cordoba at least to see the Mezquita. As Douglas said, it is really worth a visit even if you see nothing else, though there is plenty more. After Salamanca, spend you last 2-3 days in Madrid. That way you will have half of Day 16 to sightsee before picking up your luggage at the hotel and going to the airport.

I recommend going to the Alhambra for an evening visit on the day you arrive. Then spend the next day there as well. This will probably be your only visit there so make the most of it. The Nasrid Palaces look so different at night! Book your tickets in advance as they do sell out. Tip: for the daytime visit, buy a morning ticket with a timed entry after 11.30 a.m. This allows you enter the grounds at any time and enter the other ticketed sights any time during the day. With an earlier ticket, you must enter all the ticketed sights before 2.00 p.m. and with an afternoon ticket, you can only enter them after that time. It's a quirk worth taking advantage of.

Lastly, look at the museum collections before choosing which to visit. At the Prado, decide in advance what you especially want to see and plan your visit. The museum is simply huge and it is so easy to get side-tracked.

Posted by
22 posts

Hello Chani and thank you for your response and advice.
Interesting idea on starting out for Toledo on day one and finishing in Madrid on the back end of the trip.
I will definitely consider this.
Just a little confused though on the part about La Alhambra.
You mention visiting there and staying there the day I arrive as well or do you mean on the day I arrive in Granada after visiting Toledo and Sevilla?
I think it's just the wording that's throwing me off.
Also do you mean to say to visit La Alhambra both evening of my first arrival in Granada after Seville as well as the following morning to visit La Alhambra a second time?
This does make sense since I can imagine it can have such a different mood between nite and day.
I like these ideas and suggestions...thank you for your insight and contribution to the itinerary.
Any thoughts in regards to San Sebastián vs. Valencia?
Having a bit of a hiccup in deciding which of these two to visit on this trip though still leaning slightly more toward San Sebastián for the gastronomy.
Thanks again,
Peter

Posted by
1178 posts

The prior comments are well thought out and well written. Some more thoughts.. Toledo, stay overnight if possible. It is a completely different feel at night when the day trippers are out of the city. I like to stay at Posada de Manolo, near the Cathedral...easy to find if you get lost in the maze of streets....just look for the Cathedral!!! Some good restaurants in the city as well. I love to explore it. Would not recommend the small excursion train around the city unless you have extra time.
Toledo to Sevilla. You will need to take the train back to Madrid and from there take the train to Sevilla...a stop in Cordoba would be good. Time 1/2 hour Toledo to Madrid, 2 hours to Cordoba and 1/2 half hours (approximate on the Madrid to Sevilla run) to Sevilla. The trains are AVE and the one from Madrid - Cordoba - Sevilla has a snack bar on it.

Barcelona...Hostal El Balcon de Born is in the gothic quarter area...best rated B&B in Barcellona...in an old building, pedestrian traffic only on the street. Highly recommend for the real Spanish experience. Sagrada Familia...get your tickets on line, become a 'family member' as well, and go early. Restaurant El Raco De La Villa...check it out, not on the tourist track, but excellent.

Dali...if you visit the house, you MUST get tickets in advance, just as at the Alhambra...well worth the visit, I enjoyed it more than the museum to be honest, will need an automobile to get there..the road along the coast is curvy and beautiful sights as well to be seen. Olive trees on the mountains were planted by the Romans I am told.

Salamanca...Plaza Mayor is beautiful, both in the day and at night. There is a tourist agency on the plaza, well staffed.

Enjoy the trip!!!

Posted by
32 posts

Peter,

I have not been to Valencia, but if gastronomy is an interest to you, definitely do NOT skip San Sebastian. I had a great time there in September. Also, for an experience you will never forget, try to get a reservation for Tickets in Barcelona. They open exactly two months out. SO worth it - one of the most fun dining experiences of my life.

Posted by
16895 posts

The two multi-star restaurants that I thoroughly enjoyed near San Sebastian (Mugaritz and Asador Etxebarri) are not actually in the city, but I know that some customers arrived to Mugaritz by taxi. Since I didn't go into the city center on that driving trip, I didn't get to try Arzak or other similarly well-considered spots there, but would certainly like to, since they're so often discussed in the same league. Reserve months ahead for these (I believe booking opens 2 or 3 months ahead at most). I think the experience is worth the money, and less expensive than the big names in Chicago, New York, London, or Paris.

Posted by
7175 posts

I would encourage you to drop Salamanca, include Cordoba, and extend Barcelona.

Day 1-4 Madrid (including day trip to Toledo)
Day 5 Cordoba
Day 6-7 Seville
Day 8-9 Granada
Day 10-13 Barcelona (including day trip to Figueres)
Day 14-15 San Sebastian
Day 16 leave from Madrid back to NYC early evening 5pm.

Look at flights with Vueling: Granada-Barcelona-San Sebastian-Madrid.
The rest easy by train.

Posted by
15784 posts

Peter, I didn't realize, until I re-read my post, how confusing it sounds. Yes, I meant going to the Alhambra in the evening on your arrival day in Granada.

I haven't be to either San Sebastián or Valencia. All I can say is that, like Italy, once you've been to Spain, you'll be back!

Posted by
22 posts

Back on forum after a long holiday season...Happy New Year everyone!
Thank you to HJ, Courtney, Laura, djpsyd and Chani again for all of your responses and helpful advice in my planning of the itinerary for this upcoming trip.
It's now official since I have got my plane tickets last week after finding a pretty amazing airfare.
I leave a few weeks earlier than originally planned but the fare was too good to pass up and made the necessary schedule adjustments.
I leave for almost 16 days on May 5th and couldn't be more excited.
Now to find tune this itinerary which some will probably say is a bit too ambitious/full but this is what I'm planning for nonetheless.
Taking Chani's suggestion of heading straight down to Toledo upon my early 6:25 am arrival in Madrid I plan to get an early start south and save my last three days of the trip to round the whole thing up back in Madrid before I head home.
Only problem being that on a Wednesday morning the only trains from Madrid to Toledo are at 7:50 am and the next just after Noon.
Not sure if I'll make the 7:50 but I'll sure try.
I'll also take HJ's suggestion of spending the first night in Toledo and a daytrip stop in Córdoba the following day on my way to Seville.
Thank you HJ for all the Barcelona and Figueres/Cadaqués suggestions.
I realize djp
syd encourages me to drop Salamacna and include Córdoba and extend Barcelona but even flying from San Sebastián back down to Madrid will take approximately the same amount of time (6-7 hr trip with a layover in Barcelona) one morning as taking an early 6:30am bus from San Sebastián to Salamanca (7.5 hrs.)
All that being said and keep in mind that this is still not finalized...this is the revised plan for my 15.5 day itinerary for what I'm calling Spain Spring '15 Whirlwind trip of a lifetime (last spring I did a similar FULL itinerary through Japan.)
Anyone and everyone please feel free to add any editing, revisions, suggestions, advice and recommendations wherever and whenever possible, especially in regards as before to transportation, accommodations, essential sights and gastronomy.

Day 1: arrive early am Madrid and take earliest train possible to Toledo, spend day and 1st overnight in a Toledo.
Day 2: morning train back to Madrid then train on to Córdoba for daytrip en route to Seville, spend overnight in Seville.
Day 3: Seville overnight.
Day 4: either one more day and night in Seville or on to Granada late morning by bus for afternoon and overnight in Granada.
Day 5: if staying in Seville day 4 and night than this would be first day via bus to Granada.
Day 6: either 2nd day/night in Granada or on to Barcelona via morning flight.
Day 7: Barcelona overnight.
Day 8: Barcelona overnight with day trip to Figueres/Cadaqués by train and bus.
Day 9: either one more day Barcelona overnight or onto San Sebastián by plane.
Day 10: San Sebastián overnight.
Day 11: either one additional day/night in San Sebastián or morning bus to Salamacna overnight.
Day 12: either Salamacna overnight or late morning train to Madrid.
Day 13: Madrid overnight.
Day 14: Madrid overnight.
Day 15: Madrid overnight.
Day 16: final day Madrid with late afternoon departure back home to NYC.
So basically a lot of this stands on how many days/nights I'm spending in Seville.
Ideally it's 1 day/night in Toledo
1 day Córdoba
2 days/3 nights Seville
2 days/1 night Granada
3 days/4 nights Barcelona (including daytrip to Figueres/Cadaqués)
2 days/2 nights San Sebastián
1 day/1 night Salamanca
3 days/3 nights Madrid
I realize it's alot but I do think it's doable.
Some will probably suggest forgoing Salamacna for such a short stay there though as I mentioned it's virtually the same amount of travel hours there by bus from San Sebastián as it is to Madrid via Barcelona by plane.

Posted by
15784 posts

Peter, I'm not sure where you saw the schedule for trains from Madrid to Toledo. I looked on the Renfe site and there's a train at 8.50, then every hour from 9.20. Anyway, when you buy your ticket at the airport, they'll sell you the ticket on the local train to Madrid-Puerta de Atocha and then the ticket on the next possible connection with availability to Toledo.

Posted by
22 posts

Hi Chani...yes I checked on the Rail Europe Renfe time table and it says on Wednesday's that there's no Madrid to Toledo morning trains that run between 7:50am and 12:20pm.
Only on Saturday and Sunday there is a train that leaves between those two times at 9:20am but perhaps I'm looking at the incorrect time table.
Though I do sincerely appreciate you looking into this matter for me. :)

Posted by
15784 posts

Peter,

I always use the renfe.com website. The home page should come up in Spanish. At the top, click on "welcome" for English. The 10.20 train is not always "available." Another good site for train schedules all over Europe (no prices) is the German site, bahn.de

Try to avoid Rail Europe as much as possible. . . incomplete info, inflated prices

P.S. I know that there are hourly trains between Madrid and Toledo because I am planning on using them in 4 weeks.

Posted by
22 posts

Thank you so much Chani for the helpful information with this beginning part of the trip!
Otherwise I wouldn't had known better than just to use the Rail Europe site.
From here on out I'll be using the Renfe site direct.
Cheers!

Posted by
75 posts

That trip looks great!!!! Let me know if you need someone to carry your bags, lol!!!!!

Posted by
22 posts

Ha! yeah thanks man...gonna be a good one though now feeling somewhat torn between how long I should spend at each stop primarily in Andalusia...Seville and granada.
want to see the Alhambra both day and night though seville is the heart.
Also how long in both barcelona and madrid?
Because I already know that I'm just doing one day in Toledo, daytrips in Córdoba and Figueres, going to San Sebastián for two days and hitting salamacna for a nite on the way back to Madrid.
the four I'm still unsure on how long in each are seville, granada, barcelona and madrid.
It's gonna be a whirlwind.
anyone else have any last thoughs?

Posted by
15784 posts

how long in each are seville, granada, barcelona and madrid.

Sevilla - at least 2 days to see the main sights
Granada - 1-2 to 1 day at most to see the sights other than the Alhambra (night and day)
Madrid - how much do you like art museums? The Prado is huge, the Thyssen is excellent, so's the Reina Sofia. If you just want to get a look at the city, tapas bars, parks, architecture you don't need much more than a day. If you want day trips - Segovia, El Escorial, Avila, that's another option.
Barcelona - I'm going for the first time, but I know I want to spend a day visiting the Dali Museum, another day seeing Girona, then there's Monserrat and Barcelona itself. . . .

Posted by
7175 posts

Do you have 15 nights at your disposal? If so I would allocate them such ...

1 night in Toledo
2 nights Seville (travel via Cordoba)
2 nights Granada
4 nights Barcelona (including daytrip to Figueres/Cadaqués)
2 nights San Sebastián
1 night Salamanca
3 nights Madrid

Because of slow travelling in and out of Granada it really is a minimum 2 night job to really appreciate the Alhambra.
How are you travelling San Seb to Salamanca ??

Posted by
22 posts

Thank you Chani and djpsyd for all your input!
Quite helpful though funny enough I think I finally finalized the itinerary late last nite and it's actually nearly spot on with djp
syd's suggestion.
The only difference being 3 nights/2days in Barcelona and 3 nites/2 days in Seville just because I'm stopping for a day trip in Córdoba on the way to Seville and arriving Seville that second evening of the trip.
If I wasn't doing Córdoba day trip I'd have two full days in Seville following Toledo and four full days in Barcelona (including the day trip to Figueres/Cadaqués.
I think it's important to visit Córdoba though even if only to see the Mosque.
The only other thing I'm wondering about now is whether I should spend that day and overnight in Córdoba instead of just the day which would cut out the additional first night in Seville making it 2 full days/nights in Seville as opposed to the 3 nights/2 days in Seville.
Any last thoughts on this?

Posted by
7175 posts

So we arrive at this ... ??
1 night Toledo
1 night Cordoba
2 nights Seville
2 nights Granada
3 nights Barcelona (including day trip to Figueres/Cadaqués)
2 nights San Sebastián
1 night Salamanca
3 nights Madrid

How do you plan travelling ... ??
Granada-Barcelona
Barcelona-San Sebastian
San Sebastian-Salamanca

Posted by
22 posts

Yeah that seems like the final edit unless you think I should forego the extra nite in Seville after the Cordoba day trip on the second day and stay in Cordoba overnight and head to Seville the next morning on the third day?
that's the last decision of the itinerary.
It'll be relatively fast paced but a nice overview of the different regions.

Madrid-Toledo-Madrid-Cordoba-Seville train

Seville-Granada bus
Granada-Barcelona flying
Barcelona-San Sebastian flying
San Sebastien-Salamanca bus
Salamanca-Madrid train

Posted by
7175 posts

I had already made that change re Cordoba. lol.
I would now make another suggestion (sorry).
FLY San Sebastian - Madrid and do your 3 nights in Madrid BEFORE Salamanca.
Then, as you have an evening flight, you can catch a train into Madrid for your airport departure on the last day.

Keep in mind if you want to avoid buses completely (and I hate buses) that trains are better Cordoba-Granada than Sevilla-Granada. Hence, Toledo-Sevilla-Cordoba-Granada would be better routing if using only trains.

Posted by
22 posts

I'm not sure if I understand the cordoba-Granada than Sevilla-Granada.
The only two buses I planned to take on the trip were Sevilla-Granada and later San Sebastien.
Reason bring somebody else mentioned that there were more bus options from Sevilla to Granada then there are trains if I want a better schedule and the travel time between is the same either option.
Though I agree train is better...I might get an earlier start?
Also the travel time between San Sebastien and Salamanca by bus is practically the same as a flight from San Sebastien to Madrid with layover in Barcelona...there's no direct flight...the flights like minimum 5 hours with layover in Barcelona ,is 160€ gets in at 3:20 pm
.The bus from San Sebastien leaves early morning 6:30 gets into San Sebastien at 2:00pm for 38€. I dunno...I mean do the math.
The main reason Chani suggested starting the trip in Toledo first nite instead of Madrid is because my flight arrives that first morning at 6:30 and I can already get on my way to Toledo by 9:00am which time wise kind of makes sense to me.
Hence San Sebastien to Salamanca to Madrid.
Buses aren't ideal for sure but I've ridden my share of buses that were longer than these

Posted by
7175 posts

Yep, I remember all those very valid arguments.
I will shut up now.....zip !!

Arrive Madrid, train to Toledo - 1 night
Train to Cordoba - 1 night
Train to Seville - 2 nights
Bus to Granada - 2 nights
Fly to Barcelona - 3 nights (including day trip to Figueres/Cadaqués)
Fly to San Sebastián - 2 nights
Bus to Salamanca - 1 night
Train to Madrid - 3 nights

Perfect Peter !!

Posted by
22 posts

Bravo!
I understand the other routes though this one in the end I guess made the most sense.
Thank you for all your input and feedback....it's been very helpful.
Sincerely appreciated.
Now to buy tickets and make reservations.
Does anybody have any idea how far in advance one can buy tickets for the Alhambra?
You can't purchase admission to Sagrada Familia till two months prior it seems.
Also I've read so much different conflicting information in regards to figueres and Cadaqués.
Some say both the museum and house in port illgat can both be visited in one long day via train and bus.
Others say it can't be done since there's supposedly only one bus each way daily that goes from figueres to Cadaqués and back and that it doesn't make any sense to go to Cadaqués without spending overnight because of these transportation issues.
Does anybody have accurate information or instructions for this to dual destination day trip from Barcelona?

Posted by
7175 posts

2 months ahead would be when I would be looking to book.
I have been to Cadaques 3 times, all by private vehicle sorry.
Figueres and Girona are easy together in one day from BCN by train.
Perhaps look at a rental car from BCN for the day to get to Cadaques as well.

Posted by
22 posts

Thank you enric for the feedback on this day trip!
I've found the solution!
an all day small group tour on Viator from Barcelona with all transport, admission tickets and highly rated guides goes from 8am-7pm for $105.
Can't beat that since the train tix would be $50 to go that route and save from all the logistical hassle. Only thing not included is the admission to the house but that's a relatively cheap fee.

Posted by
7175 posts

Viatour to the rescue. Well done.
Friends of mine recently taken several of their tours from Madrid & Barcelona and were more than happy.

Posted by
22 posts

So I thought that I had the perfect itinerary down pat with the fantastic assistance from many of you.
That was until I just discovered that The Alhambra is closed for night visits on both Sunday's and Monday's which happen to be the two days that are scheduled in Granada for my formerly perfect itinerary.
Ok so back to the drawing board for one more flip-flop revision between Seville and Granada.
So day three instead of heading to Seville via quick AVE train from overnight in Córdoba I must now find the best/quickest way to travel from Córdoba to Granada and then on day five the best/quickest
to head to Seville from Grenada.
Then on day seven fly to Barcelona originally as planned but from Seville instead of Granada.
This new switcheroo and final revision is open to feedback and suggestions.
Want to to this quickly since I have already booked refundable rooms in both places and will need to revise the reservations.

Posted by
7175 posts

train ... and train.
I don't know if I would be so hung up with seeing the Alhambra at night.
Many people say that it is too dark to see the intricate plaster work.

Posted by
22 posts

Part of me would agree though I've heard more than one other person tell me how visually amazing it is there at night...I already switched my hotel reservations and got a cheap $55 flight to Barcelona from Madrid.
So now I go Toledo-cordoba-granada-seville-barcelona.
I also must decide if I take the early or late flight from Barcelona into San Sebastián.
Early leaves at 7 am gets into San Sebastián at 8am...giving me two full days and nights in San Sebastián.
Late flight leaves at 5:15 pm and gets into Sam Sebastián at 6:15 pm shaving a day off San Sebastián making it 2 nites/1 day but an extra half day in Barcelona making Barcelona 3 nites/2.5 days.
The early morning flight is also 25 euro cheaper.
Ah decisions...decisions

Posted by
7175 posts

Go evening. Enjoy the extra time in BCN. 7am is WAY too early to be doing anything in Spain, let alone catching a flight.