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21 Days in Spain in January

I have read through all the forum threads below, and that has been invaluable so thank you. Some assumptions: I know this is a last-minute trip, but I have the opportunity so I'm going for it! I am traveling (mainly) alone, have a lot of energy, travel lightly, and can cover a lot of ground. Sometimes I take trips slowly and linger in towns for a long time, but for this trip, I will be a little more aggressive. Money is not really an issue, but I also hate flying so I prefer car or train--convenience and experiencing a lot in three weeks is more important. I love art, museums, cathedrals, but also hiking and exploring. I usually prefer small villages to big cities. I need advice in three areas:

(1) Itinerary progression to optimize time (initially 21 days, but I can adjust up by a day or two).
(2) Your opinion on whether noted small towns are worth the stop to you.
(3) Trains versus cars. I'd prefer train travel, but if it would help me see more and be logistically helpful, I'll rent a car.

Thank you in advance for your help. Here's where my mind is right now with (nights stayed in):

Fly into Madrid (2)
Train to Segovia (1)
Train to Salamanca (1)

(Save Santiago de Compostela-Oviedo-Bilbao-San Sebastian, etc. for summer)

Barcelona (3-4)
- Worth stopping for a few hours/night in Olite, Ainsa or Besalu? Drive or trains?

Train to Toledo (2)
Train to Cordoba (1)

*I need help dividing up roughly 10 nights in the south to see Sevilla, Granada, Ronda (worth seeing Casares, Frigiliana?) Would you choose Morocco over other places in the south on those 10 nights?
Do I take trains or get a car in Sevilla and drive to these other spots?

I will take the train back to Madrid and spend another night or two before fling out of there. Thank you, again, for all of your expertise and suggestions. You've helped me immeasurably on other trips without even knowing it!

Kirk

Posted by
28082 posts

Oh, Kirk. Please don't do this. By the time you get yourself to the train or bus station, wait for departure, ride to your destination, get you luggage to your hotel and get oriented, half the day is gone. You're obviously an experienced traveler, so you know this. What is the point of spending half a day in a magnificent city like Toledo or Cordoba? For pity's sake, scale back the geographical area you plan to cover. Not only are you not going to get much out of the super-short visits to many of your destinations, you are skipping right over some other great places along the way.

OK, I've taken a deep breath. Here are a few thoughts on some of your specific destinations:

Segovia: I really liked it but will admit that it is closer to a one-night destination than many of the other places on your list. I think the bus may be faster than the train, though. Do allow time for wandering; it has much more than just the aqueduct.

Salamanca is a handsome city that somehow wasn't one of my favorites, but it's certainly worthwhile. The historic area is quite large, the train or bus time from Segovia is about 3-1/2 hours, and there's quite a walk from the train or bus station to the core of the historic area. If you can't spend more than one night there, I'd consider skipping it, especially if you don't have a special interest in seeing the university. (I was underwhelmed by my visit to the university--sans guide, but the city is physically attractive and lively due to the student population.)

Santiago de Compostela is another city with a really large historic district, plus a number of museums and sights you'd probably want to visit. Galicia is hard to get to. It will take something in the 7-hour range from Salamanca. Check the historical weather data to be sure you want to spend January time here (and more time getting here). Even in mid-summer Santiago gets a lot of rain and not an awful lot of sun. There are other interesting places to see in Galicia. It seems a shame to travel so far for barely more than one day in the area.

Oviedo has a nice old town but I think its main claim to fame is its very early (9th century?) churches. They are not centrally located and are scattered. Realistically, I think a lunch stop here will be just that, not much of a sightseeing opportunity. If you do stop, there's a fabulous bakery/pastry shop sort of across the street from the train station. Rome2Rio.com gives a train/bus-combo time of almost six hours for the trip from SdC. Just in time for the late Spanish lunch period!

The trip to Bilbao will be by bus. Rome2Rio says 3-1/2 hours. (I haven't independently verified any of these times, which you need to do; Rome2Rio is not terribly reliable.) You don't need a car to get back and forth between Bilbao and San Sebastian; there's very frequent bus service taking less than 1-1/2 hours. A car would speed things up for other parts of your trip, but I've never rented a car in Europe and can't provide any tips on driving in Spain.

I liked both Bilbao and San Sebastian. SS is more overtly a foodie city and at least in summer has a very active tapas culture, but both places have attractive historic districts (healthy walks from their respective bus stations) and one or two important museums. As in Galicia, you should expect cool, wet weather here.

SS-Olite is faster by bus than by train. Olite is relatively non-touristy; might feel pretty dead in January. Interesting to wander the historic district, but you need this time for your other destinations and should skip it.

Besalu is very small and not an overnighting sort of place. Very picturesque, but to me it's leagues less interesting than Girona, which is easier to get to. A day-trip to Besalu is not a good use of your time on such a cramped trip.

I haven't been to Andalucía recently so will leave that area to others. Given the time of year, I'd do Barc - Madrid - Andalucía.

Posted by
32 posts

Acraven, this is exactly the kind of perspective I appreciate, so thank you! So what if I leave the northern part of the country for a trip when the weather is warmer (perhaps tied into southern France)? Saving Santiago de Compostela-Oviedo-Bilbao-San Sebastian would save me at least five days.

I could still hit Barcelona and surrounding areas, but focus much more on southern Spain. And, to your point, spend more time in places like Toledo and such. Thanks again!

Posted by
28082 posts

I think that would be lovely. And there are many additional interesting places along that stretch of northern Spain between Galicia and the Basque Country. It's an especially great place to be if you find yourself needing to travel during the summer. When the time comes, check out the beautiful Picos de Europa area and Santillana del Mar in Cantabria; Pontevedra, A Coruña and the coastal towns of Galicia; Leon (does get hot); Burgos; and Viktoria-Gasteiz, Laguardia, Hondarribia, and the many charming small coastal towns of the Basque Country.

Edited to add: I enjoyed spending several days in the hill town of Puigcerda, an historic Catalunyan town in the Cerdanya Valley near the Pyrenees. I took side trips to some picturesque towns along the local bus line and especially enjoyed a day-trip on the Yellow Train through the French Pyrenees just across the border. The lowland areas in this part of Spain do get hot in summer, though.

Posted by
7175 posts

Logically, this is how I would attack three weeks as you describe, flying in to Barcelona, and out of Madrid.

Arrive in Barcelona - 4N
Fly to Granada - 2N
Drive to Ronda - 2N
Drive to Sevilla - 4N
Train to Cordoba - 2N
Train via Madrid to Salamanca - 1N
Train to Segovia - 1N
Train via Madrid to Toledo - 2N
Train to Madrid - 3N
Depart from Madrid

Posted by
32 posts

David, that is extremely helpful. I can also tell by the number of nights you suggest in specific towns which ones you value the most. Here are a couple follow up questions:

  • Are there any particular day trips you recommend during the time in Barcelona...or just soak up the city itself?
  • Are there day trips from Sevilla that you recommend? Any hidden gems around there?

This is a fantastic outline and itinerary. Just talked to my brother, who had walked the Camino years ago. He recommended saving the northern parts for warmer weather as well. Thanks again to everyone. This forum is so helpful.

Posted by
28082 posts

The train from Cordoba to Salamanca takes more than 5-1/2 hours. Very iffy for just one night, I think. But the train on to Segovia is just over an hour, so at least there's that. Going directly from Cordoba to Segovia (i.e., skipping Salamanca) would take only about 3-1/2 hours.

Posted by
7175 posts

From Córdoba to Salamanca, the day would be pretty much written off to travel. Spend most of the following day exploring Salamanca before the short hop back to Segovia in the early evening. Similarly, spend most of the following day exploring Segovia before the short hop back to Madrid and on to Toledo in the early evening. In Spain you have this 'dead zone' between 6pm and 9pm (as dinner is eaten later), which is perfectly spent changing your location.

Not being a big fan of Montserrat, I would spend all my time in Barcelona, especially if you are possibly dealing with the effects of jet lag.

From Sevilla, Jerez is about an hour by train, and makes an easy day trip option.

Posted by
897 posts

@acraven - thanks for your posts. I have a similarly trip planned (3 weeks, Jan/Feb) & your advice is helpful. FWIW, I'm thinking of taking a counterclockwise route around Madrid - Segovia, Salamanca, maybe Zamora, then south, 2 or 3 stops on highway E-803 (Plasencia, Caceres, Trujillo, Merida), then finishing up in Andalusia.

Posted by
32 posts

Going234, thanks for throwing out some other intriguing places. Would you rent a car during the entire time or just during certain portions of your trip? I'm curious which parts. I do love the freedom of having a car to randomly pull over into an overlooked town and get happily lost!

Posted by
897 posts

I'll use trains and buses, just easier for me. It's nice not to have to drive for 3 weeks.

Posted by
15788 posts

The only part of the trip that warrants a car is through the hills to see the pueblos blancos between Granada and Sevilla. Spending 2 nights in Ronda gives you 3 days to do this. Leave Granada first thing in the morning, stop in Antequera (ancient dolmens, maybe go up to see the old city center too), then scenic driving through the hills, a full day to explore Ronda and another full day through the hills arriving in the evening in Sevilla (drop the car at the train station and take a taxi to your hotel). You could even add a night in the hills, stay in another of the white towns or base in Ronda and drive around. The scenery is beautiful and there are frequent pull-outs to admire them and easy to drive off the main road to explore the towns themselves (though driving in some of them can be tricky - narrow, steep streets with sharp, blind corners).

Posted by
15788 posts

Can you drive a stick shift? The automatics are usually only available in the larger cars and sometimes more expensive than the manuals for the same model. I ran into trouble getting in and out of the big cities (Sevilla, Cordoba) on my second trip (wish I'd had GPS, would have been a snap then). On my first trip, I picked up the car in Jerez (nice low-key town with easy day trips by train to Cadiz and by bus to Arcos), drove through the hills, stayed in Ronda, then dropped the car in Granada. The only trouble I had then was when I drove into a couple of the small pueblos blancos. Most were no problem at all.

If you are going to spend a day or more in Ronda, PM me and I'll give you my tips. I had great tapas, didn't find a good place for dinner though. It has several quirky fun museums.

On my first trip to Spain (February), I decided to spend 21 days in Andalucia (plus 2 in Madrid) to see it thoroughly and cross it off the list. The main impetus was two-fold - seeing the Alhambra was a 20-year dream and Andalucia is the warmest, driest part of Europe. Well, before I'd been there a week, I knew I'd be back . . . twice already and my first trip was in 2013.

Posted by
32 posts

Chani, just sent you a PM. I can drive a stick shift and always get small cars for those tiny towns! Thanks so much for all the insight. This helps immensely.