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1 week itinerary in Spain that balances city and countryside?

Hello all,

My wife and I are planning a 1 week trip to Spain, likely sometime next April or May. We have been to Europe several times before but this will be our first time in Spain.

We have varied interests (e.g. we usually like all the recommended sights/activities in Rick Steves' books), however we do try to make sure that all our trips have a good mix of cities and countryside. We like big cities, however some of our favorite parts of previous trips have been in the countryside and small towns (e.g. Cinque Terre, Provence and Tuscany).

Rick Steves' recommended itinerary for the amount of time we are going (1 week) is Barcelona, Madrid and Toledo, which all sound very nice however I'm concerned that we'd be spending tall of our time in cities except for a jaunt to Toledo (which, although obviously smaller than Madrid and Barcelona, doesn't seem to be that small either, certainly not like the Cinque Terre towns, Tuscan hill towns, or towns of the Luberon).

Any thoughts on a good 1 week itinerary for first-time Spain visitors that is more balanced between countryside and city?

A possible alternative (to the Rick Steves' recommended itinerary) that we are considering is Madrid, Toledo and area north of Madrid (using Segovia as a base to drive around and tour the surrounding area). This seems like it would have a better balance between country and city, however it would mean cutting out Barcelona....

Thank you for your suggestions.

Posted by
27062 posts

Spain is really large and has wonderful sights throughout. You can only see a bit of it in a week, so I really wouldn't be concerned about omitting Barcelona (my favorite Spanish city) or Madrid, or any other particular place.

I think a trip combining the highlights of Madrid + surroundings or the highlights of Barcelona + surroundings would be great. Understand that you will have to be brutal in pruning your list of the big-city sights, which are legion. You could easily spend an entire week in either of those cities, especially in Barcelona (I did 10 days in August and need to go back).

Here are some options near the two cities:

Barcelona: Girona (walled historic capital with lovely historic district and a good museum; not a small town, but the historic area feels sort of small), Cadaques (touristy former fishing village with white-washed houses dripping with bougainvillea; Dali sites nearby), Besalu (picturesque small town with fortified bridge, closer to Girona than to Barcelona), Montserrat, Sitges (beach town with a good small museum).

Madrid: Segovia (fab), Toledo (even more fab--could spend two days there easily), Avila (walled town that I found much less compelling than the first two), Cuenca (very picturesque hanging houses above ravine and good modern-art museums; less than an hour from Madrid by AVE train but twice that by car). Nearer Madrid are a couple of places getting fewer foreign tourists that I enjoyed for several hours each: Chinchon (smaller) and Alcala de Henares (old university town with very nice architecture).

Alternatively, you could see a good bit of Andalucía in a week. Especially if your trip turns out to be in early April, that would be a good option from a weather standpoint. But some cities in the area gets really booked up during Semana Santa because of the festivities, so the period around Easter is a different sort of experience. I haven't been to this area recently, so I can't make any particular suggestions here beyond saying that I really liked Ronda.

ETA: A week in Spain is painfully short. If you can possibly stretch your trip to 10 or 12 days, you'll be very glad in the end.

ETA 2: I should have mentioned Tarragona as a possible side-trip from Barcelona. It's not small, but it has important Roman ruins.

Posted by
10 posts

Thank you for your thoughts. We are planning on 8 nights and most likely won't be able to swing more than that unfortunately.

RE: your two recommendations (Madrid and surroundings, or Barcelona and surroundings), if you had to pick which would you suggest as the better of the two? I feel like there is more interesting things to see in Barcelona proper than in Madrid proper, but in the surrounding areas it is the opposite!. Tough decision!

Posted by
2940 posts

I'm not going to get into your dilemma because I'd obviously be biased in my response.... so I'll just give you some pointers that might help (or not) to decide:

If you decide to visit Barcelona, you're entering the realms of Catalonia, a small nation over 1000 years old with a very distinct culture, history, heritage, and traditions. Besides its capital-city, Barcelona, there are some other 946 cities, towns and villages in Catalonia and each one has a story.

SOME IDEAS FOR AN EXCURSION OUT OF BARCELONA (easily reachable by train and/or bus and most of them ideal for a day escapade)

GIRONA || FIGUERES -note this and Girona are very close || SITGES || MONTSERRAT || BESALÚ | TARRAGONA || VIC || ROSES || TOSSA DE MAR

or perhaps attending an event or "festa major" somewhere in the region can be another great option to immerse yourself in Catalan culture.

If you prefer more traditional text-based advice:

Catalonia’s Tourism Agency || Barcelona’s Tourism Agency || Costa Brava Tourism Agency || Baix Empordà Tourism Agency || Lleida and Pyrenees-Aran Tourism Agency || Pyrenees-Aran Tourism Agency || Terres de l'Ebre Tourism Agency || Barcelona City Council || Girona City Council || Tarragona City Council

To download: a map of Catalonia and a comprehensive guide

Enjoy!

Posted by
27062 posts

I sort of feel the same way you do. You really cannot go wrong in either area. You might take a look at historical weather data since small towns usually mean being outside a good deal. Madrid's average daily low temperature, while not cold, runs nearly 10 degrees (F) lower than Barcelona's in April and May. Since Spaniards start eating dinner at 10 PM, nighttime temps matter more than they would in some other countries. The average highs are so close as to be considered identical, and there's not much difference in the rainfall stats. If you want to see actual day-by-day weather data for recent years, you can find it at wunderground.com.

Another way to look at it is that I think for most travelers, Barcelona needs more time than Madrid. Definitely true if you don't plan to spend a lot of time in the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-B. museums. So given that you want a mixture of large and small towns and have only about a week, Madrid might be a better choice on this trip, since you might well feel you have more time for the surrounding area than you would in Barcelona.

One thing I probably should mention, though: I've spent a fair amount of time on buses and trains in the area around Madrid, and the scenery I observed was underwhelming. While not ugly, it's fairly dull compared to some other areas of Spain. So if pretty countryside is a big deal for you, being pinned down in the area around Madrid may not be ideal.

Not helping much, am I?

Posted by
1520 posts

With only a week and the desires you expressed give consideration to the following:
Fly directly into Seville, most likely via Madrid
Seville offers a rich history amidst a totally "walkable" area
From Seville several day trip opportunities come to mind using either train or bus.
1) goto Cordoba
2) goto Ronda
The next destination is Granada, reachable by train or bus.
Fly home from Granada, most likely via Madrid
The expense of flying through Madrid is often small, buut the time saving is large. We often utilize this tactic during our travels in spain.
Take a look at the RS Spain guide to further define the opportunities this proposed itinerary offers.

Posted by
2455 posts

nbob, I spent about a month in Spain this past April/May, and visited almost all (but not quite) the locations mentioned through this thread of posts. Like you, while I do like major cities and sites, especially very old ones, I also seek out and adore small, ancient and traditional towns and villages, and scenic countryside. You could spend a great 8 nights almost anywhere in Spain, the varied sites, deep history, cuisine and friendly people are that wonderful. While I liked Madrid, i must say it was my least favorite stop. It is of course a very large city, much newer than all the others, with no Roman or Moorish history, and much of its fame is for its excellent inside art museums. Toledo and Segovia, while ancient and wonderful, are both real cities, not small towns. So, I would lean toward focusing on Barcelona/Catalunya or Seville/Andalusia, maybe including Granada and its Alhambra. I myself started by spending 9 nights based in Barcelona, took day trips by train to both Girona and Tarragona, and then one day took an excellent bus tour with the company "Explore Catalunya" called "Medieval Villages of Catalunya", We stopped and spent time in the villages of Besalu, Rupit and Tavernet, plus drove through some fine, quite remote countryside, with an excellent local guide who really knew well and loved the area. Not everyone likes bus tours, but I recommend this one, and probably could not have visited or appreciated this area on my own. All that said, you really can't go wrong with any of the possibilities you might consider, except maybe if you try to spread yourselves too thin, and thus spend too much time in transit and moving in and out of various lodging.

Posted by
11294 posts

I can't answer your question directly, but as you say, Rick's focus is more on cities of various sizes. So, for a more village-focused trip, look at other guidebooks.

I agree with the suggestions above to see only one region, and to fly into an airport in that region. With only eight days, you don't want to waste time getting to your area of interest, or getting between regions.

And given your interests, don't worry about "missing" Barcelona, Madrid, or any other large city. You'll see other worthwhile things instead, and on another trip can see the cities if you want to.

Posted by
10 posts

Thank you everyone for the helpful replies.

Re: acraven's comment that the scenery around Madrid is a bit underwhelming, what would people recommend as an area of Spain with pretty countryside? The area around Barcelona? Andalusia?

I do like the suggestion of flying into Seville and spending the week exploring the surrounding Andalusian countryside, however I just took a quick look on Google Flights for some of the possible dates we're thinking of going and it looks like flying into Seville would be significantly more expensive (potentially up to double the price, based on the numbers I'm getting from Google Flights right now) than flying to a larger airport like Madrid or Barcelona, so that may unfortunately rule out that option if we aren't able to find a cheaper flight.

Posted by
513 posts

My preference would be for Madrid. I just returned home last week from a several week trip to Spain where I spent five more days in Madrid. I have toured Madrid for perhaps four weeks in the past ten years and always find more and more interesting sites to visit. In my opinion only Paris and London have comparable art museums. With that said, I believe the clincher in this comparison is the wide array of day trips you can take from Madrid. Over the years I have visited Toledo, Segovia, Avila. I have also enjoyed two or three night stays in Cuenca, Salamanca and Toledo. As far as that goes, Valencia is only 90 minutes away by AVE train. In the end you will decide on one of these two great cities, and whichever one it is, you will enjoy your stay immensely.

Posted by
2701 posts

It sounds like you are going to be flying to Madrid or Barcelona. With one week you need to minimize your travel time. Consider saving Barcelona for another time. You can spend a few days in Madrid, train to Sevilla (2.5 hours) spend the remaining time there, possibly taking day trips to Cordoba and others that have been mentioned. There are very beautiful areas such as Arcos de la Frontera, but I don't see that you have time unless you see everything from a moving vehicle.

Posted by
27062 posts

The prettiest countryside I saw on my recent long trip to Spain--which did not include Andalucía--was in the Picos de Europa (Cantabria/Asturias), the Basque Country, and Galicia. That's just in general, and none of those places is convenient to a major international airport to which you're likely to find good fares.

I have not been to Montserrat, which I believe has a very dramatic landscape. I remember that the last part of the bus ride from Figueres to Cadaques was very nice. Unfortunately, I don't remember about the train to Sitges or the bus from Girona to Besalu. (It was a very long trip...) I hope Enric will stop in again and provide some details about Catalunya.

Should you decide that Andalucía sounds great except for the airfare, you might consider flying into Madrid, doing a bit of sightseeing there on your jet-lag day, then taking the AVE to Seville the next day. The fast train will get you to Seville in about 2-1/2 hours. The reason I'd suggest not just going straight there is that the only way to get a good deal on the train tickets is to buy non-changeable/non-refundable tickets way ahead of time--preferably soon after tickets go on sale. It's very hard to know what time you will be ready to catch a train on your arrival day. It appears that the prices are approximately 26 euros in advance up to a walk-up fare of 75 euros, per person. Another issue with planning to buy the ticket when you arrive and head out immediately is that the trains can sell out. I see some sell-outs for tomorrow, in fact.

Posted by
63 posts

Spend your week in Madrid and surrounding area. Barcelona is cool but really overrated

Posted by
11294 posts

For Andalucia, look into flights to Malaga; it's a larger airport than Seville and so may have more competitive prices.

If you are restricted to flying into Madrid or Barcelona, I don't think you can go wrong with the area around either one. The two cities themselves are very different and have an incessant rivalry (think Sydney and Melbourne, Dallas and Houston, and the like). However, as a visitor, they're both great, and you can have a great day or two in each (on the way in or out), even if your focus is smaller places nearby.

Posted by
27062 posts

I've checked a map and have another possibility out of Barcelona, but I have no idea about the April and May weather. I suspect April would be quite iffy. I am speaking of the Pyrenees. The hill town of Puigcerda (more or less "poo cher DAH") is about a 2-hour drive from Barcelona. Once in Puigcerda you're in the Cerdanya Valley, which is known for being sunnier than the surrounding areas; it can be quite hot in mid-summer. From Puigcerda the N-260 runs past several nice tiny towns (including Bolvir, Bellver de Cerdanya and Martinet) to the very handsome larger town of La Seu de Urgell with its historic cathedral. La Seu looked liked it would be a nice place to spend the night, as is Puigcerda.

In the opposite direction you can cross a few miles of France to reach the Spanish (!) town of Llivia, which is larger than Bolvir, BdeC and Martinet and had multiple restaurants open when I visited the area in July. All of the above could be covered by public bus on a summer weekday, though not in one day. I assume the buses run all year long, because they serve primarily locals.

You're not yet actually up in the mountains, but they are visible from the previously mentioned towns. For actual mountain time the French Yellow Train is a treat. Much of its route is through the mountains. The train runs from La Tour de Carol to Villefranche-de-Conflent, and the entire trip takes between 3 and 3-1/2 hours one way. Since I was staying in Puigcerda, I opted to get on at Bourg Madame (about 2 miles from Puigcerda). There's parking at the Bourg Madame train station; I assume it's free.

Some of the trains run only part of the route, between Font Romeu-Odeillo and VdC, and there are more trains during the summer (defined as beginning on June 25 this year), so verification of the schedule is a must. The online schedule doesn't extend to April and May yet.

Many riders did only part of the trip, but I'm betting the access road(s) along the train route have some scary moments.

VdC is an extremely picturesque fortified UNESCO-recognized town with a walkable wall. It is very touristy. One of the other stops is near Mont Louis, also fortified and a UNESCO site. It's a bit of a walk from the train station serving Mont Louis to the town; an electronic map is advised, in case there are no people around to point you in the right direction. I was switching to a bus at Mont Louis and unfortunately didn't have time to go inside the city walls, but there certainly were not many tourists visible outside the walls, and I'm confident that it is less overrun than VdC.

Yellow Train tickets can be bought from SNCF. I did not need to buy a ticket in advance. This is a local train, and I doubt that a seat reservation is possible. Neither train I rode was full, though there were a lot of people making the northern part of the trip.

For checking the schedule, use Villefranche Vern (Villefranche Vernet les Bains) as the destination. There were schedule leaflets available at the Bourg Madame station this summer. Bourg Madame has a tourist office not too far from the train station. It's easier to find the T.O. than the station, which is down a side street near a butcher shop. I don't remember whether there is a sign marking the turn.

Posted by
10 posts

Thank you everyone for your comments, especially thank you acraven for your multiple detailed replies!

After considering all of the above I think we are probably going to do Barcelona + countryside.

If you can indulge me for one final question: for the countryside portion of our trip, what town would make sense to use as a base? A lot of the sights referred to in this thread and Rick Steves' book in the near Barcelona area seem to be within day-trip distance by car from Barcelona meaning that we could theoretically stay in Barcelona the entire week with about half of it devoted to day trips to the surrounding towns/countryside, however I think it might be nicer to have part of the time spent in a smaller location (particularly if we are renting a car - don't want to have to commute out of Borcelona every morning!), however I'm not sure what town would make sense as being a relatively central location.

Acraven, re: your most recent post, the Pyrenees does sound appealing; I will have to look into the weather that time of year. Just to clarify, are you suggesting that we should use Puigcerde as a base, or just that it would be a good town to visit in the area?

Thank you again everyone.

Posted by
27062 posts

Apologies for the slow response to your November 4 post. I was playing tourist in my own country, for a change.

My experience in Catalunya is limited to the areas mentioned in my earlier posts plus Ripoll, which I visited overnight on short notice when the bus I planned to take back to Girona (from Puigcerda) did not show up. I did like Puigcerda. The old town (on a hill and accessed by funicular) is very pretty. It's a popular area with residents on both sides of the border and thus has restaurants, a helpful tourist office, etc. Of the towns I visited, I'd choose between Puigcerda and La Seu de Urgell as my base for visiting the Pyrenees. Which is not to say that those are the best choices--just that I think they're the liveliest of the places I saw.

Girona is a wonderful destination itself and is very convenient for visiting Besalu, Figueres and Cadaques. It certainly has more specific tourist sights than Puigcerda and (I think) even La Seu de Urgell.

Posted by
10 posts

Thank you acraven and everyone else! I have learned a lot of helpful information in this thread!