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Trip report - including hikes, restaurants, hotels

I just returned from 16 fabulous days in Slovenia focused on hiking and food. Here are details. Thanks to Dave for providing great info in this forum; I'll try to pay that forward.

HIKES

I’ll start with this because it’s harder to find elsewhere. I’ve included links to my alltrails maps. Note I’ve put comments in many of those links. The only snow on any of these hikes (in late May and early June) was an insignificant patch along the Slemenova Spica route, but this is reportedly a low-snow year.

Velika Planina – Fascinating hike amidst summer homes of herders. We planned to do it between Ljubljana and Bled, but due to weather shuffling our schedule, did it as a daytrip from Ljubljana instead. Food available. 8.0 miles, 2,000 feet climb, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/velika-planina-from-p3-0e98aee

Velika Ojstrica – A series of viewpoints overlooking Lake Bled. 3.0mi, 1,000’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/lake-bled-ojstrica-velika-osojnica-mala-osojnica-5ef0b4e

Vintgar Gorge - St. Catherine loop – Crowded but scenic through the gorge near Lake Bled. The loop back that we took is worth doing rather than the road route. 4.3mi, 900’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/circular-route-vintgar-st-catherine-258be18 (note the map includes the drive from Bled)

Savica Waterfall – Short trail to nice waterfall near Lake Bohinj, 1.4mi, 600’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/savica-waterfall-3a44967

Golica – Superb long hike from near Bled to a peak on the Austrian border. Many daffodils in spring. We planned to stay overnight at the hut 2/3 of the way up; we changed plans due to weather, but this would be worth considering as we had a delicious lunch there, the proprietor was friendly, and the setting is spectacular. 7.5mi, 3,000’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/golica-loop-with-daffodil-detour-1e056d2

Slemenova Spica – The most bang for your buck: a moderate hike from the parking area at the top of Vrsic Pass to a spectacular 360-degree view. 3.4mi, 1,400’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/slemenova-spica-mountaintop-hike-3cec07e

Boka Waterfall – Easy hike near Bovec. 1.0mi, 500’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/boka-waterfall-loop-81b4484

Fort Hermann & Soca River – Easy hike north of Bovec. 2.7mi, 1,000’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/boka-waterfall-loop-12ced2d

Brda Cherry Festival loop – An organized hike between villages as part of the annual cherry festival. 7.4mi, 1,200’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/morning-hike-48dfb0e--154

Sviscaki-Sneznik – Hike to the highest point in southern Slovenia (1 hour from Postojna) with 360-degree views towering above the surrounding mountains. Food available at hut when it’s open (weekends now, daily starting mid-July I think). 7.9mi, 2,200’, https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/sviscaki-

OTHER ACTIVITIES

In Bovec, we rented mountain bikes one day and went rafting another day with SportMIX. Their people were incredibly nice and, unlike other companies, they are flexible if you need to cancel.

RESTAURANTS

Our favorite restaurants were the following, in no particular order:
• Monstera Bistro, Ljubljana – Small, friendly, set menu; simpler for lunch
• Strelec, Ljubljana – Set menu in the castle overlooking town
• Castle Restaurant, Lake Bled – Set menu in the castle overlooking the lake
• Bovec kitch'n, Bovec – A stand in the center of town run by a father and daughter serving local food a few days a week
• Hisa Franko, near Kobarid – Famous, creative very long set menu
• Bistro Štorja, Postojna – Surprisingly ambitious set menu as well as simpler a la carte meals
• Hisa Denk, near Maribor – Creative set menu, also the biggest bargain of our trip

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HOTELS

Here's where we stayed:

• Hotel Heritage, Ljubljana (3 nights) – A bit of a splurge but very comfortable and well-located.
• Old Parish House, Bled (2) – Very near lake and castle, pretty good.
• Vila Park B&B, Lake Bohinj (2) – Nice room and friendly proprietor, but the place smells of cigarette smoke.
• Apartma TOBI, Bovec (3) – Functional though sterile, washing machine, central, friendly owner, booked on booking.com.
• Aldila Art Rooms, Smartno (2) – Central, nice room, mediocre breakfast.
• Hotel Jama, Postojna (1) – Near caves, nice room, didn’t choose this place but were moved there by the hotel we had booked.
• MuziKafe, Ptuj (2) – Quirky in a good way, very friendly, superb courtyard café. If the room type you want isn’t available online, try bigger rooms; the price seems the same for all.
• Dvor Jezersek Brnik, Ljubljana near airport (1) – Good if you have an early flight as you can return the car the night before and walk 30mins to hotel, nice room, outstanding restaurant.

Posted by
3777 posts

Thanks for the restaurant recommendations. We are headed to Ljubljana next Wednesday.

Posted by
3811 posts

Thanks for the trip report. Excellent! I'm sorry to hear Vila Park B&B smelled of stale smoke. I did not notice that when I was there (though the proprietor was often smoking outside).

Did you try Carniolan sausage? I loved that stuff.

Posted by
25 posts

Thanks Bruce, helpful information for sure!
We are four 68 y.o. Seniors and want to hike to viewpoints and waterfalls.
We won’t attempt any more than about 3 to 4 miles, 1000 gain.
Do you know the mile post for the trailhead to Slemenova-Špica hike?
Google maps from AllTrails shows at the south end of Vrsic Pass,
yet you and others mention that it starts near the peak.
We will have proper shoes and at least 1 hiking stick/person.
Did you consider Mostvica Gorge near Bohinj? Start at Fuzina Stara?
We are 4 nights near Lake Bohinj, but with Vintgar, Lake Bled,
and Savica, I don’t if we have time for Mostnica Gorge?

I see you had meals at Bled Castle and Ljubljana Castle,
did that include admission fees? Views for sure.

I want to carry tripod & camera to most sites, are the Lake Bled
Viewpoints best at sunset, or whenever we can work it in?

Again, thanks for your informative report!

Posted by
8 posts

BobNes: I don't know the milepost for the Slemeova Spica trailhead, but it's right at the top of the pass and is quite obvious with signs and a parking area. You can also use AllTrails to navigate to the trailhead with Google Maps. The hike is 3.4 miles roundtrip and 1,400 feet gain. The steepest part is the first 0.5 miles, gaining 600 feet to a nice viewpoint where some people turn around. The rest is less steep but there are a few slightly tricky steps around rocks. If you can get to the end, you won't regret it -- it was as spectacular as the 3 much harder hikes we did on our trip.

We didn't do Mostnica Gorge because we didn't have time (we spent 2 nights at Lake Bohinj but did a long drive to the much more difficult Golica hike on the day in between, because it had rained a few days earlier when we'd wanted to do it).

I think castle admission was included with the Bled Castle dinner but not the Ljubljana Castle dinner -- or maybe vice versa.

The best viewpoints for Lake Bled are on the Velika Ojstrica hike, which is also short and steep (and slippery when we went because it was raining). There are some views from the castle although I don't recall the sun situation because it was still raining.

Posted by
3811 posts

BobNes--

I will also endorse doing the loop hike for Vintgar Gorge linked above instead of just doing an out-and-back walk. Following the ascent to St Catherine, there are really nice views of Bled Castle in the distance and of the surrounding villages down below. Avoid the crowds by arriving close to opening time -- you will have the gorge almost to yourself.

I thought the Mostnica Gorge hike was great and was quite a bit easier than the Slemenova Spica hike. There is a nice food hut at the end near the waterfalls. I recommend the Turkish coffee and the blueberry strudel.

Posted by
25 posts

Bruce, where is the best place to park for the Lake Bled viewpoints for photo?
Velika Ojstrica – A series of viewpoints overlooking Lake Bled. 3.0mi, 1,000’,
Is late afternoon in September a good time for photos from there?
Thanks again for your trip report and advice! Dave, too!