My husband, 14 year old daughter, and I are visiting Scotland in July. We have accommodations booked for Ullapool and Skye, but we are looking to spend one night en route. We are either going to drive the coast and stay around Plockton, or take the ferry to Stornoway and drive down Lewis & Harris and spend the night around Tarbert. Is it unrealistic to do the Outer Hebrides route with a 1 night stop? We would take the morning ferry from Ullapull arriving in Stornoway in early afternoon. We would like to see the island a bit before landing for the night in Tarbert and taking the ferry to Skye the next morning. Would we be better off enjoying the coastline from Ullapull to Skye?
This is part of a 10 day itinerary (2 nights Ullapool, 1 night Plockton or Tarbert, 2 nights Skye, 1 night Glencoe, 3 nights Edinburgh), so we want to see what we can but not feel like we are spending too much time in the car/on a boat.
Thanks!
Posted by
North Carolina
2454 posts
Spell check - it’s Ullapool. Will make it easier to book things.
Posted by
TX, USA
4113 posts
I feel like at this late date, you might have to let lodging be your decider. You don’t have a ton of options in Tarbert.
Posted by
Duluth 🛶
6342 posts
I'm not familiar with Plockton but I would vote for Harris and Lewis. I love ferries and the Ullapool ferry to Stornoway is a really nice boat with lots of amenities. I think your daughter might enjoy the ride. There is a cafe on board, a game area, and lots of nice lounges. Plus, of course, you can sit outside and look for dolphins and whales.
If you get to Stornoway around noon, you could see a decent amount of sites before heading to Tarbert. For example, the Calanais Standing Stones and The Blackhouse in Arnol are only about 30 minutes apart, and there are other sites in the area that are very interesting. If you had time, you could walk over to Lews Castle and visit the museum there. It's small but outstanding, and the castle itself, which sits right outside of the city center, is located in a lovely forested setting with some nice walking paths.
Then you could make your way to Tarbert, and head for some of the coastal beaches there, which are beautiful. But as TexasTravelMom said, book your accommodations now.
Posted by
Lake District, England
5811 posts
If you are struggling to find somewhere in Tarbert you could look in Lochmaddy (North Uist). Take the last ferry from Leverburgh (a bit beyond Tarbert) to Berneray then a short drive to Lochmaddy.
The same ferry, on it's triangular route to Uig, also runs from Lochmaddy.
If on your date that is an afternoon sailing take that as a chance to explore North Uist and Benbecula before you sail.
From 2025 (we hope) or 2026 Lochmaddy and Tarbert will be two separate routes- each with their own ferry- so more frequent sailings.
Posted by
Yorkshire
1229 posts
As the MV Seaforth is a bit of an obsession, go do the Outer Isles.
One huge upside is there will be so much less traffic than Ullapool -Skye and the landscape on Lewis is so different to anywhere else in the UK
I would say the journey from Stornaway to Tarbet might be my favourite UK roadtrip now.
Theres a very good museum at Uig Sands ( Uig chess men) on Lewis and its a famed white sand beach too.
If you do go the mainland coastal route, I will plug the Inn at Baddacchro
Posted by
Lincolnshire, UK
1851 posts
It is possible, but much as I love the Outer Hebrides (much prefer them to Skye!) I feel this plan is really short changing them. If you arrive in Stornoway at 12.10 then I assume this would be a Sunday? The Monday ferry leaves Tarbert at 7.20 so you won't have any chance of sight seeing that morning. As pointed out there is limited accommodation in Tarbert so that may scupper the plan. Ferries may also be booked up too.
Plockton is delightful but not very big, so again there may be problems getting accommodation.
Posted by
Isle of Skye, Scotland
1125 posts
Have you checked that there is availability for a car on the sailings you wish to take? Accommodation will also likely be an issue. It's certainly possible and Lewis & Harris are wonderful, so if you can get the ferries booked and find accommodation then I'd say go for it.
Posted by
Lake District, England
5811 posts
The other option is to explore Lewis on the Sunday, stay overnight in Stornoway then explore Harris on your way to the afternoon boat from Tarbert at 1620, arriving Uig at 1800.
Yes you've robbed a day (but not a night) from Skye, but get to spend a bit more time in the Outer Hebs and more chance of finding a hotel.
Posted by
Yorkshire
1229 posts
If you are staying in Stornaway on Sunday they prettily heavily observe the Sabbath there.
I have never seen a tiwn of that size so ghostly quiet
Posted by
Lincolnshire, UK
1851 posts
That could also apply to Tarbert. You will need to thin k about an evening meal and if your accommodation will provide one. Unwary visitors have been caught out by this...
Posted by
Lake District, England
5811 posts
That is a point worth thinking about. Lews Castle is closed on a Sunday (and Monday), and the Black House is closed on a Sunday.
The stones are of course open but the Visitor Centre is closed anyway for the whole of 2024. There is a pop up shop, a food truck and toilets, but all those are closed on a Sunday.
There is of course still the scenery and the beaches, and the ferry experience. And maybe just the rare experience of a town which does take the Sabbath seriously. In countries of other faiths than Christianity of course that is still normal.
Posted by
Lincolnshire, UK
1851 posts
It always amused us on visits to the Western Isles how busy the roads were on a Sunday evening as everyone was going to church...
Posted by
OP
Ontario, Canada
2 posts
Thanks everyone. We've decided on Lewis & Harris and changed our plans a bit to get more time on the island. Jumped right on it and managed to get accommodations & ferry tickets!
Posted by
TX, USA
4113 posts
Good choice! I love Lewis a lot!
Posted by
Duluth 🛶
6342 posts
I agree - one day, I want to go back there, and spend more time. Enjoy!
But I am curious how everyone is assuming the OP is there on a Sunday. I don't see it in her post. Am I missing something?
Posted by
Glasgow
13 posts
If it’s great scenery you are after then I’d head straight for Harris - Luskentyre, Seilebost, Scarista…the south west coast with its sweeping shellsand beaches and mountain backdrop provide scenery that is, to me, out of this world beautiful.
You do get some of that too around the Mangersta, Uig Sands and the Reef beach areas of Lewis but it’s not quite as good(though still stunning.)
I wouldn’t waste time in Stornoway itself which is very urban in feel.Head south.
Posted by
Lake District, England
5811 posts
@Wasley's started the Sunday theme by saying that the ferry arrives at Stornoway at 1210- but that only happens on 21 July (when it adds an extra journey out of Stornoway, due to the HebCelt24 festival on 17 to 20 July). On weekdays it arrives at 1310 and on all other Sundays at 1410.
If the OP is visiting during HebCelt that will affect availability of accommodation on Lewis and Harris. As Wasleys is normally spot on, that was taken as fact.
Memo to self- check and recheck facts