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Start of the tourist season in Skye and already traffic chaos

Our local facebook groups have reported several blocked single track roads to the major honey pot sights of Skye over the last couple of days. I thought some advice on single track roads might be useful, but first some information on the problems we've had these last couple of days.

Yesterday the single track road from Staffin to the Quiraing was blocked for several hours when a rented camper van tried to squeeze past a rental car without using a proper passing place. As a result the camper van ended up in the ditch at the side of the road unable to move as the underside of the van was caught on the edge of the road surface. Chaos ensued as the road was completely blocked. The recovery vehicle was unable to get to the scene as scores of visitor vehicles blocked the road. Nobody could turn around and it took ages to get everyone out of the way so the camper van could be recovered. Despite warnings more vehicles tried to access the Quiraing.

Today the road to the Fairy Glen is blocked and has been for quite a few hours. Another van has gone off the road in circumstances identical to those in the Quiraing yesterday. Comments on the local Official Isle of Skye facebook page ask why the roads are so poor. Well it's a single track road (with passing places) to a farm, that courtesy of the Instagram generation has become a tourist hot spot. It's probably completely unreasonable to expect Highland Council to widen a road that was never intended to take more than a few cars and farm vehicles. And who would pay for that improvement - local tax payers who don't use that road?

This post is by way of information and to advise anyone coming to Skye to make sure they know how to use single track roads. There are lots of videos online showing how to do it but here is one that I like.

  • It is absolutely essential that you don't tailgate other road users,
    as this risks too many cars trying to get into a passing place and
    blocking the road. Usually passing places only fit 2 cars. So if
    you're in a line of cars you need to leave space. This means hanging
    back at the last passing place until the traffic in front of you has
    cleared the next passing place.

  • Always stop on the left side of the road, opposite a passing place if
    the passing place is on the right hand side of the road.

  • Be prepared to reverse if you come nose to nose with another vehicle
    and the nearest passing place is behind you.

  • If you are causing a queue then pull over and let faster traffic pass you.

I'd also suggest that there are plenty of absolutely stunning places to visit in Skye. Consider avoiding the honey pot sites like the Fairly Pools, Fairly Glen, Quiraing, Coral Beach and Neist Point. All of these sites require you to drive tricky, single track roads that are poorly maintained and have lots of potholes that can wreck your tyres if you're not careful. If you must go to those sites, maybe do so early in the morning or late in the evening - although driving to Neist Point for the sunset is not for the faint hearted.

Have a look at Walk Highlands to find equally interesting and beautiful places on our wonderful island.

Posted by
36699 posts

it is so sad that so many reminders are needed.

Must be awful to be a resident and need to use the roads in a medical emergency (human or animal) or try to market with a livestock trailer.

Thanks, Skyegirl

Posted by
1658 posts

Thanks Nigel. It’s getting beyond a joke. Just hearing that the main A87 is now blocked at Sligachan by a rental car that has become wedged in mid air against the crash barrier.

Hubby wants to move to Unst in Shetland……

Posted by
36699 posts

well it would be less crowded, but I'm not sure if the weather's any better. and the scenery?

keep your head down for Storm Dave.

I'd bring the washing in, and any stray pet lambs

Posted by
1658 posts

Unst is fabulous, but shhhh don’t tell anyone 😆

The hatches are battened down. Currently not too windy but we have wet snow. The hens are now especially happy.

Posted by
11890 posts

Skyegirl, it makes me shiver just reading about it.

I understand that about the roads and not expecting the locals to have to pay for road improvements on a road that was never intended to be used that way, but has Scotland ever thought about initiating a tourist tax? Maybe something that would be particularly earmarked for roads?

I don't think the tourists are going to go away and I know that Scotland can use the revenue. But at the same time there's got to be some kind of solution to the traffic problems. I don't know what that would be, but I'm thinking of some kind of extra tax might help. Maybe that's optimistic, though...

And Unst is high on my list. 😊

Posted by
1658 posts

Mardee, there are certainly plans to introduce tourist taxes in various Scottish regions including Edinburgh and the Highland Council area. Currently an ongoing debate is about how much it should be and how to collect it, which seems to be via accommodation providers as in other countries. Lots of debate about how the revenue raised would be used, and fears that it would disappear into the general revenue pot rather than being ring fenced in any way.

If raised via accommodation providers then the many, many camper vans would escape. An ongoing source of annoyance for residents here.

Posted by
23367 posts

You could add a per diem tax on camper van rentals on the island, or a tax on camper vans coming over by ferry.
I can't believe I am actually suggesting ways to tax tourists, but we do tend to add to local headaches. Just make sure the revenue raised does not go to advertising that promotes more tourists to come.

Posted by
1658 posts

Sam, There are no camper van rental companies in Skye and any attempt to 'toll' or tax people coming over the bridge would meet with huge resistance as locals fought for years to get the bridge tolls removed. But yes I believe there should be tourist tax on car and camper van rentals.

Posted by
2828 posts

I honestly believe that if they renamed it the Isle of Drizzle or the Isle of Dreich, it would reduce tourist numbers. People go there because other people go there.

It's beautiful, but so are many other places in Scotland.

Posted by
1658 posts

ramblin' on - you are right about people coming here because others do! Instagram and tiktok have a lot to answer for.

Posted by
463 posts

Oh my. That is awful.

I remember the drive to fairy pools being particularly harrowing.

@Skyegirl, I did the Quirang and Old Mann of the Storr at sunrise to avoid crowds and parking problems. I’d often see cmpervans pulled off and parked up in the viewpoints along the roads, which annoyed me. I’m sure it would happen, but what about banning camper vans on Skye since the roads aren’t meant for them.

Off topic, but I heard Armadale Castle was sold to some Canadians. Do they plan to keep the grounds open?

Posted by
1658 posts

KB. Lots of debate here about camper vans, but no way to ban them and indeed there are residents here who own a camper van to use when they go on holiday elsewhere. The roads can cope fine if people obey the rules of the road and use passing places properly. Plenty of big delivery lorries who have no problem at all!

There are a number of very good camp sites where people can stay in their vans, but many prefer to pull off at the side of the road. Human waste is also a problem as some of the smaller vans don't have toilets. It's pretty depressing.

Posted by
2012 posts

Human waste is also a problem as some of the smaller vans don't have toilets. It's pretty depressing.

Oh my word! Have they never backcountry camped? You're supposed to bury it! Better yet, pack it out!

Posted by
1806 posts

@Skyegirl

I was on Mull recently and talking to staff in one of the restaurants and the opinion on Mull even with the ferry fun is they do not want a fixed link due to seeing what is happening in Skye

Re the single track roads, even then early in the year there were people who seemed ignorant of the rules, once I was essentially driven at to force me to reverse to save the person coming the other way ten/fifteen seconds. Most people did seem to be ok, though the convoy when the ferry got in clearly was a problem but one that cannot be avoided. I got the feeling that some people think the passing place is only for the people whose side it is on. Lane assist in a car with it on those roads is fun though, my car did not know how to cope.

One of the problems, not just in Scotland but throughout the world, is some people forget that they are in a space where people still live, work, send their kids to school, go to the local rugby/football club and so on.

Posted by
1154 posts

Taxes won't fix the problem. We were stuck behind a camper entering the "wee mad road" last year and watched him lumber past the "Caravans Not Recommended" sign without a second look. It took about 10 miles before he woke up and saw the following tail of cars, and some of us got past. Now released for normal driving, everything was fine until another caravan approached from the other direction, he also ignoring the same sign at the other end. We got past him at a passing spot, but when the two caravans met, I'm sure there was chaos, since both had long strings of following cars. It's really hard to obey the two car rule when you're stuck behind a real slowpoke. Little wonder the NC500 residents are a tad upset.

Posted by
207 posts

Obviously I am a tourist, but there are just too many of us - spoiling the very things we travel to see. I would look very carefully about the possibility of banning campers except locally owned. Bermuda doesn't allow rental cars. Unfortunately all this is making me rethink my trip in april 2027 - I'm already having trouble finding accommodations in Skye and Glencoe. I live in Alaska and we have similar problems with campers in the summer - but our roads (the few we have) are built for them. I guess the only solution is to go places that have not been discovered by the masses. My last trip was negatively impacted by rude tourists and instagram posters. Sad situation... Sue

Posted by
1658 posts

Sue,
Because hospitality is such an important industry in Scotland I don’t think there would be the political will to ban camper vans. But we do need to educate our visitors about how to drive on our roads and about responsible camping. There is myth that wild camping (which is legal in Scotland) applies to those driving camper vans. It actually doesn’t. It applies to those on foot. But there is no real way to enforce this. There are a few council wardens but insufficient numbers to tackle so called wild camping and I’m not even sure if it’s within their remit.

Here in Skye I also think we need to help visitors enjoy the island by spreading out away from the honey pot sites. Instagram, and other social media channels have so much to answer for in terms of directing everyone to the same few places, when beauty lies around every corner.

You could still come and enjoy Skye, but accommodation for 2027 will not be open to book yet, especially if you are looking for smaller B&Bs. Try again around November or December for next April and avoid Easter holidays if you can.

Posted by
1806 posts

@skyegirl noticing anything with the increase in fuel prices? People are driving slightly more slowly here, diesel is approaching £2/litre here, petrol £1.60 a litre which is a 15p rise in petrol in two weeks.

Posted by
1658 posts

MC-Glasgow, I filled up this evening and paid 190.9p per litre for diesel in Dunvegan. So much for the 5p a litre rural fuel subsidy. I am trying to cut down my own car usage, but Dunvegan was busy with visitors looking for food when I went to pick up my take out curry from Isle of Spice which has opened in what used to be the Waterside Bistro on the same site as the petrol station. It’s owned by the family who bought the petrol station. So the tasty and good value curry somewhat alleviated the pain of the diesel price.

I think visitors will not really reduce journeys based on the price hike on fuel, as they will have pre booked their accommodation.

Posted by
2091 posts

Even with the rises the price of fuel is still a small part of the overall cost of the trip so I don’t think it’ll have a huge impact on tourism. Accommodation and food costs are a much bigger part of the budget. £50 more on fuel is not going to stop them coming.

Posted by
5796 posts

Not Skye, but my experience with single track roads was on Mull and as I recall while I'm sure I wasn't perfect, it was obvious who had experience or had done some homework prior to driving there. However, some things weren't covered in the homework I did including a cow standing in the middle of the road and a momma sheep and her two babies sitting and relaxing in the passing place.

Posted by
1658 posts

Helen - I agree with you. I suppose a side effect of the increase in fuel prices might be that more visitors are persuaded to take electric rental cars. This will be an unwise choice for those coming to Skye where the infrastructure for charging is somewhat scarce and generally unreliable.

Allan - with sheep, a crofter and lifelong resident of Skye told us when we first moved here that under no circumstances should we stop the car when presented with sheep on the road, even if they are laying down. We should apparently keep driving very slowly and they would move. This has proved effective so far (10+ years) and we've managed to avoid hitting any sheep. I have passed this advice on to many guests!

Posted by
1806 posts

Regarding the sheep, don't blow your horn to get them out of the way. A sheep is potentially 100 kg or more of not the brightest animal, and as a prey animal gets spooked easily. A first class rugby international is generally under 100 kg!

You do not want one to land on your bonnet, or come through the window. Creep up in your car on them slowly.