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Skara Brae

I haven't seen topics on this cool destination. I'm thinking about driving up the west coast to see it as the furthest point and then find train connection to go south on the eastern coast to Edinburgh. Do people recommend SK? Have to drive there from Glasgow north enjoying islands on the way etc right?

Posted by
316 posts

From the way your query is phrased, I’m not sure if aware that Skara Brae is in the Orkney islands north of Scotland? So you need either to fly there or take a ferry from Kirkwall, Aberdeen or Gills Bay. And also, I don’t think there are trains further north than Inverness. You could drive up the west coast, across the north coast to Gills Bay, take your car to Orkney and then back to the mainland and drive down the east coast to Inverness. It’s a very long journey on narrowish roads though. I’ve driven up from Inverness to the north coast and it was interesting but not the most exciting scenery in Scotland.

Posted by
8693 posts

First time poster.

Thats the trouble with Instagram and geography isn’t taught anymore.

Wonder if the OP can read a compass?

Posted by
1871 posts

I think you need to look at a map of Scotland.

Your post is quite confusing. You are travelling up the west coast of Scotland and then presumably along the north coat to Dunnet Head which is the furthermost northern point of mainland Britain...

I’m not sure what you mean by ‘enjoying islands on the way’ What islands are you thinking about? That leads onto a very big question - HOW LONG ARE YOU PLANNING FOR ALL THIS? It isn;’t a 2-3 day jaunt...

You will need to get a ferry across to Orkney. There are two choices - either go back to Thurso and catch the ferry from Scabster which will take you to Stromness. This is about 7 miles from Skara Brae.

The other alternative is to drive towards John O’Groats and catch the ferry from Gills Bay which takes you to St Margaret’s Hope on South Ronaldsway. This is about 30 mile drive to Skara Brae.

Check that you can take your hire car on the ferry.

You can also do a day trip to Orkney from John O’ Groats which covers all the main sites. This may be an easier option

Where are you planning to drop off the car?

You can catch a train from either Thurso or Wick which will take you to Inverness and then change there for south for Edinburgh.

Do we recommend visiting Skara Brae? Well that all depends on what your interests are.... To me it is a big YES, but may be not for others...

Posted by
1376 posts

Well, it is possible for beckylilley6 to drive up to Thurso/Scrabster via the West Coast and the islands (Skye, Harris, Lewis?), but the only major car hire companies in that area are Avis in Kirkwall and Hertz at Wick Airport. I don't want to even think how much the one way drop off charges would be! Beckylilley6 could take a train from Thurso or Wick to Inverness, as Wasleys recommended, transfer to a train to the East Coast via Aberdeen, then take the train from there to Edinburgh.

A couple of my Scottish friends have told me that some American tourists think of Scotland as a large theme park. I hope that that is not the case here.

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
1871 posts

Unfortunately, I think it may be Mike. The OP needs to do some serious thinking about the logistics of this and get a map.

Posted by
1646 posts

I think thinking of a place as a theme park can be quite common, and even the tourists who know the place is still a living city or country can get carried away and randomly stop in the middle of street, which is really annoying when you are rushing for your train and the bus to Waverley has already been running late.

I once paid a couple's bus tickets in Edinburgh, not out of altruism, really because I needed to catch that train otherwise I'd turn into a werewolf. Or at least get really, really grumpy.

Not for nothing that some houses in tourist areas keep the curtains shut on the ground floor, shutters in France and so on, or have net curtains so thick it is like looking out through lacy fog. And there is nothing as annoying as being caught being Boris and Betty Bimbler bimbling along at 44 mph (no matter the limit) on a road where 50 - 55 if not 60 is possible, and you are heading somewhere. To be fair, Mr and Mme Bimbler are as likely to be local as no tourist is willingly going to be driving a ten year old Vauxhall Corsa with assorted stickers on the back with often conflicting messages.

Back to Orkney, yes, a map is probably a good idea. If going up from here, I usually break the journey in Inverness. Coming back it is a single day, but a long day on roads north of Inverness that are not great.

Posted by
1130 posts

Came back from the supermarket one day to find M. and Mme Bimbler and their camper van parked up on my driveway eating their lunch, "because the view of Dunvegan Castle across the water is just sublime". Er, "yes, I know. That's partly why I bought the house. Now would you mind packing up your butties and moving off my drive?". Theme park Skye!

Yes the OP needs to have a look at a map and preferably some guidebooks to plan their trip. Skara Brae is a wonderful place, but best enjoyed as part of a longer stay on Orkney and not as a tick list on a Scotland-in-2-days trip.

Posted by
1871 posts

Love the story Skyegirl. I hope they took their litter with them....

Posted by
1646 posts

Skyegirl, ouch. That is bad even by the standards of the Bimbler family (4, The Larches, Penge)

It reminds me of some of the stories when some of the pandemic restrictions were lifted and some people living in popular spots from Cornwall to Caithness not being able to get to their own homes because the roads were solid with parked cars.

Posted by
1376 posts

After having re-read the original post, I think that the OP may be having us on. Anyone else feel that way?

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
270 posts

I don't know if this particular OP is having us on but I do think some posters on other forums come up with unrealistic itineraries simply to see what the reactions are. They must have too much time on their hands, like to waste other peoples time as well and are not making travel plans at all.

Of course it may be that influencers, social media and "To Do" lists play their parts and folk can get carried away without doing any research of their own. Then they come to realise their planned itineraries are unrealistic and start asking for help because they are overwhelmed.

Whilst I do understand that for all kinds of reasons some tourists have no choice but to hit the ground running and make every day count, I also find it rather sad that others seem incapable of independent thought and only go to places which are "must sees" or are on a list of Ten Best Things To Do or have the best reviews. It is almost as though by doing so they will absolve themselves of any responsibility and have someone else to blame if things go wrong, or places and experiences do not live up to their expectations.

Posted by
2 posts

Not putting anyone on. In retrospect I must have been very tired or feeling spacey when I wrote my individual request on 1-11.
Have used Rick Steves books before in English countryside and greatly enjoyed one of his France tours. My "ask" for suggestions was to better understand traveling through northern Scotland for a two week driving trip. Changed the plan to fly into Edinburgh from the states and then to return the car there before going home. Traveling with a great soul, my college roommate from 1968. We're not as interested in urban areas and are drawn to Nature and historical sites unlike those available in North America. We understand the scenery driving from the Isle of Sky area to northeast Scotland may not be the most beautiful. Still wondering about realistic driving time and anything else you might add about going out to Orkney. Thanks to each of you who responded.

Posted by
332 posts

Isle of Sky area to northeast Scotland may not be the most beautiful.

Who told you that?

It’s Skye btw.

Posted by
5873 posts

Now the OP has added that they have 2 weeks, that is time to do both the west coast and Orkney. It should be regarded as a taster, to explore many of the areas in more depth on future visits.
Orkney alone deserves a week. Getting to and from Scrabster (the mainland port) via the NC 500 route and back deserves another week. Then you could easily spend a week travelling up the East Coast through Fife and slowly up through Aberdeen, Peterhead etc.
Especially if the OP and travel buddy are sharing the driving this is the sort of loose itinerary that could be done, as a kind of broad brush thought, and is realistic in driving times.
Day 1- Arr Edinburgh, explore city by transit.
Day 2- Tram or Bus back to Airport, pick up car, drive to Oban, early evening ferry to Craignure, drive to Tobermory for 2 nights
Day 3- Island Circular drive to/from Iona, possibly include Staffa if weather and boat schedules allow
Day 4- Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry, drive through the Ardnamurchan peninsula to Mallaig, late afternooon ferry to Armadale, 2 nights on Skye.
Day 5- Explore Skye, if there for another day include the Island of Raasay.
Day 6-Drive to Uig via the scenic Trotternish peninsula. Afternoon/early evening ferry to Tarbet (Isle of Harris), drive to Stornoway (Isle of Lewis). 2 nights [could be extended by going to Lochmaddy, North Uist instead then island hopping to Stornoway].
Day 7- Explore Lewis and Harris.
Day 8- More time on Lewis then afternoon ferry to Ullapool for overnight stay.
Day 9- Take the NC 500 route via Lochinver and Kinlochbervie to Durness or Tongue for overnight stay.
Day 10- Continue to Thurso (for overnight stay) but having first continued to Dunnet Head and John O'Groats, then returning to Thurso.
Day 11- The morning ferry from Scrabster to Stromness, for Skara Brae. You have all day so can take in more of the splendid archaelogical sites of Orkney than just Skara Brae. Drive back to Stromness for 2100 ferry embarkation. Pre-book bed and breakfast on the ship, while she is in port overnight (a little known option), then wake up to her sailing out of port at early breakfast time on Day 12. On a good morning this is an experience not to be missed.
Day 12- Drive down to the Inverness area for overnight.
Day 13- Drive Inverness to Edinburgh via Culloden and the A9 or the East Coast via Aberdeen, or whatever takes your fancy. Return car at EDI airport. Overnight in EDI area.
Day 14- Fly home, hopefully with more time today to explore EDI by transit.

There are parts of this where I would ideally mix car and train/bus. But this is just a simple sketch plan/idea.