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Scotland trip-help with itinerary please?

My husband and I will be traveling to Scotland in late April/early May. This is our 3rd trip abroad, and we do the planning, etc. for these trips. I always feel anxious about the itinerary, and would so appreciate some feedback and advice. We love history, enjoy a couple of museums, like being outside, and have always enjoyed the local walking tours, and small local tour companies. We are now 64 years of age and while in good health, aren't interested in moving at a very fast pace. I would like to know if what I have so far makes sense, and anything wonderful to see along the way.
Possible itinerary: arrive Edinburgh, Saturday April 22
• Day 1: (22) Edinburgh-acclimate, walk the Royal Mile, sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 2: (23) bus or drive to St Andrews, sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 3: (24) walking tour of the Royal Mile, (City Explorers), Holyrood House if open, Royal yacht Brittannia, sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 4: (25) day trip to Stirling Castle?, sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 5: (26) pick up rental car, drive to Ballater ( 2 hrs 40 min)tour of Balmoral, have tea?, sleep in Ballater
• Day 6: (27) leave Ballater, tour Culloden(1 hr 46 min), Cawdor Castle? drive to Glencoe
• Day 7: (28) cruise Loch Lomond, tour Mull, or Dumbarton Castle, sleep in Glencoe
• Day 9 (30)drive to Glasgow, sleep in Glasgow
• Day 10 (May 1) drop rental car in Glasgow(or at airport on the 2nd), tour Glasgow, sleep in Glasgow
• Day 11 (May 2) fly to Dublin

Many thanks for your help!

Posted by
4064 posts

We were there in June.

Day 2 seems a bit busy to go to St Andrew's and Edinburgh Castle, but we didn't visit St Andrew's and I don't know how long it takes to see and visit, so I shouldn't comment beyond that.

Day 3. We didn't use City Explorers but our tour of the Mile was the most interesting thing we did in Edinburgh.

Day 4 Stirling Castle was the highlight of our trip. We spent about 6 hours there. We enjoyed it more than Edinburgh Castle.

Day 6. Cawdor was an unexpected surprise, especially the gardens. We did Culloden, Clava Cairns and Cawdor in one day from Inverness.

Day 7. I highly recommend Mull, but you don't have time. It's minimum a full day.

Day 10. Dropping off the car a day after arriving in Glasgow?? We did enjoy Glasgow. Well worth a visit.

Posted by
1645 posts

By Britannia, do you mean the Royal Yacht Britannia? If so, just be aware that it's not on or near the Royal Mile, so factor in travelling by city bus or taxi to it. We thought it was worth seeing. https://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=local&utm_campaign=hotel-royalyachtbritannia

Note that Holyrood House may or may not be open the day you want to see it. When we were there, it was not, because it was hosting dignitaries or something. It is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and it is currently closed until further notice: https://www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse

If this sort of thing interests you, consider also visiting Calton Hill, also: https://ewh.org.uk/world-heritage-sites/calton-hill/

On the Royal Mile, we enjoyed visiting The Real Mary King's Close for a glimpse of life in Edinburgh in the 17th C. https://www.realmarykingsclose.com

For a day trip to Stirling Castle, you might consider including other sights in the Highlands, as well. We did one with The Hairy Coo tours, in which we visited the Firth Bridge, the Wallace Monument, viewed Stirling Castle from below (but did not visit indoors), Aberfoyle, Trossachs Park, Loch Katrine, Lake of Menteith, Doune Castle, and, of course, some hairy coos. That tour is no longer offered (too bad), and did not go inside Stirling Castle, but one like this might suit you: https://www.highlandexplorertours.com/1-day-tours/loch-lomond-stirling-castle-the-kelpies/

Posted by
1819 posts

I've a feeling your driving times are on the optimistic side. If using google maps, visitors are advised to add 25% to the times they give PLUS time for stops etc. Don't forget to build in time to find somewhere to park, get parked up and get to where evert you want to be.

Day 7 - there is no way you can include Mull in that day. Dumbarton Castle is currently closed with no visitor access to the site "as a precautionary measure while we undertake high level masonry inspections". There is no indication when these will be lifted - so check nearer the time. If you wanted somewhere else, you could go to Helensbugh and visit the Hill House instead. This was designed and furnished by the iconic Scottish archirtect, Charles Rennie Macintosh and is a wonderful example of Art Nouveau work. Pictures here.

Unfortunately the external render of the building is no longer watertight, and the National Trust for Scotland, which owns the property, has embarked on a 10 year conservation programme. The House has been encased in a protective steel chainmail ‘Box‘ to protect it from the elements. Visitors are now able to get a unique perspective of the House from the walkways of the Box, as well as being able to visit the interior of the House.

Posted by
4064 posts

I've a feeling your driving times are on the optimistic side. If using
google maps, visitors are advised to add 25% to the times they give
PLUS time for stops etc.

I'll confirm that you should add 25% to driving times. I was advised the same thing before my trip and it was correct.

Posted by
27039 posts

I enjoyed The Hill House a lot. There's decent rail service from Glasgow to Helensburgh, but you do have a bit of a walk to the house--0.4 miles from Helensburgh Upper Station. Helensburgh Central is considerably farther away but more convenient to the commercial district. Helensburgh gets a great deal of rain (thus the problems with the exterior of The Hill House), so be prepared for that if you decide to head to Helensburgh by rail.

Posted by
1637 posts

For driving if you have had a look in the books and online the speed limits may create a 'I can drive at that speed' false sense of security. In most of the motorway network (Glasgow excepted, where the limit is reduced) the 70 mph limit is something you can drive to. Ditto on the dual carriageway network where the same speeds are largely doable. Where the limits are reduced, though, they mean it.

However for much of the rural network the 60 mph limit is wishful thinking, although there are roads where as a tourist you might not want to go over 40mph, the locals are doing the limit if not more. Been there, done that, got a Renault Clio airborne.

So it is very easy to think 'aha, that road has a 60 limit. It will take me 1 and a half hours to drive the 90 miles to Dontgonearthe Castle. Gift shop and cafe open daily except on certain holidays.
It won't. Lorries have lower limits. Vans and caravans have lower limits. You will want to stop and take in the scenes. Someone not from Iowa or Saskatchewan will want to do so in Iowa and Saskatchewan, I know having done so in Groningen in the NL which is very, very flat and I live in an area where 'the path is flat' includes stairs.

It does not reflect that in Scotland, like in the rest of the UK and other countries those roads dive through towns with 30 limits, with congestion, with food and drink opportunities, and with that nice Polish person who served be in the Coop in Lochgilphead.

Effectively, you need to time based on a 1 mile = 1 km basis. Your 90 mile journey is 140 km. But because of everything you will face by choice or frustration 60km/h is your budget not 60 mph. The advantage is that will probably underestimate giving you more time to spend at Dontgonearthe Castle, I hear they have great gifts.

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi, susanh,

As the others have pointed out, your driving times are way too unrealistic. On day five, you need to give yourselves time to pick up your hire car, and I'm assuming that will be from Edinburgh Airport, which would be the most logical location. From there, you still need to get to the M9 for a few miles, then the M90 for Perth. From Perth, you'd take the A93 to Blairgowrie, then stay on the A93 for Braemar, then Ballater. The A93 between Blairgowrie and Braemar is not a high speed road! I would estimate at least four hours from EDI to Ballater, not including toilet and meal stops.

On day two, you mentioned driving or taking the bus to St Andrews, but you're not picking up the car until day five. It would be faster, and easier, to take the train to Leuchars Junction, then the bus from there to St Andrews. Unless you want to take the bus from Edinburgh which travels along the scenic coast of the East Neuk of Fife.

On day three, you may want to consider taking a taxi from the Royal Mile to the RY Britannia, then take a bus back from there. That would give you more time in both locations. If Holyrood Palace is closed when you're there, you may want to consider a walk up Arthur's Seat. Be sure to get a reasonably early start to take it all in, and check the closing time for the Britannia so you don't get caught out.

On day 6, it's going to take you way more than 1:46 to get from Ballater to Culloden. Where are you getting these times? The only way to get from Ballater to Culloden is to take the A939 to Nairn, then head west from there. You could conceivably take the A938 from Grantown to Carrbridge, then the A9 north to Inverness, but either way, it's a good 2 1/2 hours, possibly more. In late April, there is still the chance of snow between Corgarff and Tomintoul, so check the weather forecast before you leave Ballater.

Allow yourselves three hours from Culloden to Glencoe. It's a fair piece, no matter which route you take.

On day seven, it's going to be quite difficult to visit Mull and return to Glencoe on the same day. It is possible, but you would be so rushed that it would not do justice to Mull, which takes at least a full day, if not more, to enjoy. And you're in Scotland to enjoy yourselves! You'd have to leave Glencoe early in the morning, and in order to do Mull justice, you'd need to take a late ferry back, then drive from Oban to Glencoe in the dark. If you decide to take a boat cruise on Loch Lomond, Cruise Loch Lomond leaves from Tarbet, and Sweeney's leaves from Balloch and Luss. Both are an easy drive from Glencoe. You could possibly visit Mull, but you definitely cannot visit Mull and take a boat cruise on the same day.

On day four, after you visit Stirling Castle, you may want to consider visiting the Wallace Monument. It's a bit of a hike up the steps to the top of the monument, but the view from the top is worth it.

I just noticed that you have no plans for day eight (April 29th.). Was that a mistake, or is that an open day? If it is, you could easily visit Mull on that day, and even stay overnight there. On day nine, if your lodging in Glasgow does not provide parking, you may want to consider dropping the car off, and taking the express bus in to the city. Having a car is a liability in Glasgow.

I don't mean to put a damper on your plans, but there are a couple of days when you have way too much scheduled. The routes which you have planned are very scenic, however, and I'm sure that you will have a wonderful time in Scotland!

My very best wishes for your travels, and Happy Holidays!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
11 posts

After reading the first couple of replies (thanks! I truly need the help!) , I did some editing. Here's what I have so far.
Possible itinerary
• Day 1: (22) Edinburgh-acclimate; walk the Royal Mile; sleep in Edinburgh Parliament House Hotel 4 nights
possibly eat at Maison Bleue at 36 Victoria St.
• Day 2: (23) bus to St Andrews, visit golf course and pro shop, tour city ; bus back and sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 3: (24) walking tour of the Royal Mile (City Explorers?) ; taxi to visit Royal Yacht Brittannia, sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 4: (25) day trip to Stirling or other sites in the city, sleep in Edinburgh
• Day 5: (26) pick up rental car, visit either Glamis Castle or Balmoral- is it possible to do both after this drive? drive to Ballater, sleep in Ballater- Balmoral Arms 1 night
• Day 6: (27) leave Ballater drive to Culloden Battlefield; Cawdor Castle (is this possible?) , Wallace Monument, then drive to Isle of Skye, Stay in Portree, Portree Hotel 2 nights
• Day 7: (28) tour Isle of Skye ,sleep in Isle of Skye
• Day 8: (29) leave Isle of Skye, go to Glencoe? or where else?
• Day 9 (30) ideas?
• Day 10 (May 1) be in Glasgow a day before flying to Dublin?
• Day 11 (May 2) , drop rental car, fly to Dublin

Thank you for the great ideas:) I got driving times from Google maps, and in my head I knew from reading the forum that the times were unrealistic but didn't edit my notes to reflect that. I've read Glencoe is beautiful and would love to go there after Isle of Skye so ideas for that would be great. Also, do you recommend getting to Glasgow the day before we plan to fly to Dublin? (we have a few days in Ireland before going home). Again, thanks!! Susan

Posted by
11 posts

Also, if we don't visit Stirling Castle on Day 4, we will probably go there day 9 or 10. Susan

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi again, Susan,

As you're going to be in Stirling on day four, you should visit the Wallace Monument then, as it's near the castle, rather than day six. That would be a long way out of your way.

On day five, it is possible to visit Glamis and Balmoral Castles on the same day, but given one over the other, I'd go with Glamis Castle for the interior. As you're going to be in Ballater, you could visit the grounds at Balmoral - there's not a whole lot to see inside, and since Queen Elizabeth passed, it has lot a bit of its mystique.

To get to Glamis, take the M90 to Perth, then the A90 around Dundee and north to Petterden, where you'll pick up the A928 for Glamis. After your visit, get back on the A928 for Kirriemuir, where you can visit the J M Barrie house, if you have time, then the A926 west to Blairgowrie.

I hope that helps.

Best wishes once again!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
1819 posts

Another vote for Glamis Castle, the childhood hoime of Queen Elizabeth the Queen mother. There's a lot more to see than at Balmoral , where visitors only see the ballroom and nowhere else.

Day 6 - Ballater to Portree - you are looking at a minimum of five+ hours drive. Add in Culloden Battlefield and you won't have time to visit Cawdor Castle The gardens are quite a long walk from the car park . The inside of the castle isn't as good as Glamis either. Have you decided against Clava cairns?

Day 9 - spend an extra night on Skye OR around Glencoe (for the scenery or a short walk...) OR an extra day in Glasgow - it is very different to Edinbugh and has some excellent museums. Burrell, Kelvingrove, Tenement House...

Posted by
27039 posts

For the trip to St. Andrews, I'd consider the train/bus combo (switching at Leuchars, very near St. Andrews) in addition to the all-bus route. Depending on exactly when you want to travel, the train/bus combo might be faster. On the other hand, I guess it would probably be more expensive.

Posted by
4064 posts

Day 6 is concerning, most of the day will be driving with little time to see anything. I'd be going from Culloden to Portree and skip everything else.

I've not heard of City Explorers for your Royal Mile tour so I can't comment, but you can also look at Mercat Tours who we used. https://www.mercattours.com/

Posted by
11 posts

Hi again, Taking the advice above, here are some changes...
Day 8 drive to Glencoe and spend 2 nights. Day 9 will be a day to enjoy the surrounding area. I'll do some research on good walks.
Day 10 leave Glencoe and drive to Glasgow. Take in one of the museums suggested above. Day 11 drop off the rental car and fly to Dublin.
Many thanks for the driving directions, Mike. And all the great feedback. On Day 6 taking into consideration driving time of 5+ hours, we will be flexible about visiting sites . I do really want to see Culloden, however, so I'm going to hope we can make it. Thanks again!

Posted by
1819 posts

Have you found the Walks Highland website? It is regarded as the 'Bible'!

Day 6 - The 5+ hours includes going via Culloden - you almost go past it anyway, so there will be time to do that, as well as Clava Cairns if you want, but not Cawdor Castle.

Posted by
1376 posts

Hi once again, Susan,

Day six looks like your busiest day. You'll need about 2 1/2 to 3 hours from Ballater to Culloden, at least two hours to visit the battlefield and visitor center, then about four hours to reach Portree. So we're talking about at least a nine hour day, not including meal and toilet breaks. You'd need to get an early start out of Ballater in order to visit Culloden and drive on to Portree. It's definitely doable - this will probably be your longest day in terms of driving time.

Is your only reason to stay in Ballater to visit Balmoral Castle? If you could skip Ballater, and drive closer to Culloden on day five, after visiting Glamis, that would give you more time at Culloden, and maybe even time to visit the Clava Cairns.

On your return from Skye, I'd highly recommend taking the Armadale - Mallaig ferry, then the A830 to Fort William. That would save you from backtracking on the A87 between Broadford and Loch Cluanie. The A830 is a scenic road, and there are some lovely beaches along the way which are a short walk from the main road. The B8008, marked Arisaig and Camusdarach, is a really nice side road, which you'll encounter soon after you leave Mallaig. It runs parallel to the 830, so it's not really out of your way. There are a couple of good cafes in Arisaig, and a fairly well stocked Spar supermarket for snacks for the road.

Once again, best wishes and Happy Holidays!

Mike (Auchterless)

Posted by
1637 posts

Another vote here for not going to Balmoral but instead to Glamis and or Cawdor.

You will see much more of Glamis and Cawdor than you will of Balmoral due to security reasons. Cawdor and Glamis both have more to see, and are more open, and also likely to have special events. I have been to a classic car show at Glamis, and also seen productions of Shakespear plays by the Lord Chamberlain's Men at both Glamis and Cawdor. They rarely come up to Scotland now, but well worth catching if you can.

Glamis and Cawdor both played their parts in Scottish history with Glamis reputed to be one of the most haunted castles in Scotland.