Scotland short trip itinerary- any suggestions gladly accepted

Afternoon Tea at MacIntosh at the Willow. mardee, I read you weren’t impressed with the food here, but when I checked into Pam’s suggestion of Ivy on the Square it didn’t show an afternoon tea on their website menu section.

MLD, I'm sure it will be fine. Everything tasted good, and maybe my expectations were too high based on its reputation. But it's a LOVELY place and the decor was beautiful, so i think you will have a very nice afternoon tea experience there. That said, here is a link to the Ivy Afternoon Tea information: https://ivycollection.com/afternoon-tea/ And here is a link to the menu: https://ivy-menus-2.theloyaltyco.app/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/10808_TIC_Spring_Menus_2025_Premium_ISC_Afternoon_Tea_WEB.pdf

I think the rest of your itinerary looks great and very well thought out. I love the idea of you visiting Durham Cathedral, as it really is wonderful. Don't miss the upstairs where they have many historical items on display and you can see the Lego build of the cathedral, which is so cool!

I visited many of your stops in April this year.

The National Museum Edinburgh is huge and confusing (to me and to others from reviews I read subsequent to my visit). I was disappointed in my time there - I love museums but found this one maze-like. I think I may have to schedule another attempt and I will prepare with all the maps. I did ask for help in getting around; even with map in hand I was confused when on-the-ground. The historical areas that I wanted to spend hours in were not the easy chronological layout I expected which frustrated me no end. My only advice -be prepared with what you want to see. (or perhaps this isn't a first visit....)

Holyrood was good with good audio. I spent a couple hours between Palace and grounds. I found it helpful to know some basics of Mary Queen of Scots' life - especially the relationship with hubby Darnley. It makes the "murder room" more personal.

I saw Edinburgh Castle inside decades ago - unimpressed then which I can still remember. When I read current reviews many said the same, so I skipped it.

There are some small, fun, free museums on the Royal Mile I liked - The People's Story, Toy Museum - and a couple low cost - John Knox House the one I enjoyed most. I am a museum lover - not everyone would include these small stops.

I also wanted to wish you a good visit to Durham Cathedral. I scheduled with the same thinking as you. I had passed by on many train journeys between London and Edinburgh and always wanted to stop. I realized when planning this last trip that I'd better schedule it - or it wouldn't get done!

I enjoyed the Cathedral tour, small charge. I like knowing something before I arrive at a place. For Durham, having a basic background with Lindisfarne, Viking raids, St Cuthbert, and the Venerable Bede made the visit more personally meaningful. This is covered in the tour for those who don't enjoy pre-study as I do.

Castle was a fine, if short tour. There is a small but good archeological museum - free - in the center where castle tour tickets are sold. I would not have known about it if the counter staff hadn't invited me to visit. I was there during Spring break; I think access depends on university schedules, so you may encounter a different situation from me.

If anyone in your party is interested in Asian art/culture, there is another museum in Durham that I enjoyed. Oriental Museum https://www.durham.ac.uk/things-to-do/venues/oriental-museum/ Free, walkable (not close but walkable) from the Cathedral. Some areas are definitely better than others - not a must-see for most people, but a special interest of mine so I quite enjoyed.

There are some pretty walks along the river in Durham. You look up at the Cathedral and Castle and across at old mills. Scenic!

I can't remember where I ate in Durham - so obviously I found nothing memorable! I didn't include Newcastle in time in Durham so no thoughts there.

Enjoy your trip!

The National Museum Edinburgh is huge and confusing (to me and to others from reviews I read subsequent to my visit). I was disappointed in my time there - I love museums but found this one maze-like.

ORDtraveler, I would give this another try. It is a bit confusing to go through, I admit, but the exhibits there are worth it. I definitely did not see everything but what I did see was pretty wonderful.

To you and Mustlovedogs, I would print out (or save) the map that outlines all the exhibits, and decide ahead of time which ones you really want to see, then plan your route accordinging. Here is a link to the museum maps, which should help. https://www.nms.ac.uk/national-museum-of-scotland/plan-your-visit/museum-map And if you scroll down to the bottom, there are links for you to download a map if you want.

Re- Newcastle. There should still be the hourly Toon Tour open top bus from outside the station £10- check on that with Go North East. Buy on board or on the App.
Evensong at the Cathedral is at 5.30 pm Monday to Thursday.
A short walk to the left from the station is the excellent and free Discovery Museum .
I went there for a meeting a few months ago, and ended up spending ages in the Museum afterwards. One tip- see the Victoria Cross memorial in the square outside.
One tiny tit bit I picked up a few months ago was Newcastle 's links to Bletchley.
Two ways to ticket that-£43.40 Durham to Edinburgh (allows break of journey) off peak single, before railcard discounts.
Also there are always last minute Advance Fares Durham to Newcastle and Newcastle to Edinburgh until 5 minutes before each train. This afternoon I could halve that £43.40.
But Murphy's law of travel #2 says such fares won't exist on the day you need them!!

Glasgow to Edinburgh - my favourite rail route is that via Bathgate from Queen Street Low Level. But the via Falkirk from Queen Street High Level is faster.
The reliability cheapest bus is the City link #900 - buy a £10 day return. But the half hourly Flixbus may be cheaper.
For me route/mode would depend totally on my mood and the weather. All are turn up and go.

EDIT - For lunch at Durham it may be hugely unoriginal but I would go to the Undercroft cafe at the Cathedral. Quite nice in there. The gift shop opposite is the best I've seen in a Cathedral - a dangerously subjective judgement.

Another option for your tea in Glasgow is the bus. I have not been to Glasgow, but I have done the vintage tea buses in Edinburgh (same company), London and Dublin, and they're a real hoot. Not fancy at all, but two birds/one stone with the HOHO bus. https://www.redbusbistro.co.uk

If you’re going straight to Edinburgh on arrival, why not fly there from LHR, rather than flying to Glasgow?

Another option for your tea in Glasgow is the bus.

I'll be honest; I have never seen the value or fun of having an afternoon tea on a bus. It does not compute. :-)

To me, afternoon tea means going to a nice place where I can relax, enjoy a lovely decor and have my lovely pastries and tea in a calming and charming environment.

If you’re going straight to Edinburgh on arrival, why not fly there from LHR, rather than flying to Glasgow?

Now that it's mentioned, I'm a little confused by that, too.

That said, if you are flying to Glasgow, you will need to exit security and leave the airport. Once you leave, head outside and once you are outside, turn left on the sidewalk and keep walking until you come to a big purple double decker bus (or see a line of people waiting for the big purple double decker bus). It's the 500 Bus run by FirstBus that will take you to a block or so from the main train station (Glasgow Central) where you can get a train to Edinburgh's Waverley station. The bus leaves Glasgow airport every 10 minutes and takes about 20 minutes to get to the train station (depending on traffic).

You can buy your ticket using the First Bus app (this is what I did), or you can buy it from the driver using cash or Tap and Pay.

I would suggest getting a cab from Waverly to your hotel. It's not too long of a walk, but with luggage it will be much nicer to get a cab there. It's not too terribly expensive either. I used Gett but I think Bolt, City Cabs and Freenow are other options. I would have all the apps downloaded on your phone so you can check prices.

ETA: By the way, when you are there (and you may know this), the easiest way to check out ride share prices is to go to Google Maps, request a route using public transport from Waverley to the PI. Once you do that, scroll down to the very bottom and it should show you all the ride share options. But it won't show them to you until you are in Edinburgh.

Thank you all for the replies!

Regarding the afternoon tea scheduled for one of our Glasgow days, I will probably go with the Tea at MacIntosh. In looking at the link you shared, it seems that afternoon tea isn’t offered at their Glasgow site. If we find we want to add another or just do it first in Edinburgh , we may opt for the Ivy. They both seem like great choices.

Stuart, I went ahead and just purchased an advanced one way ticket for us to Durham, because I wanted to give us the option of coming back from Newcastle if we found ourselves with afternoon/evening time decided to go there. Maybe we can get lucky with that Advanced fare Durham to Newcastle and NCL to Edinburgh choice. The Undercroft cafe sounds perfect for lunch, look out souvenir budget at the gift shop!

ORDtraveler, thanks for the suggestion about reading up on these destinations and the history behind them. I’m not the historian in the group, my daughter is, but I think I will surprise her and turn the tables around if I spout of some interesting information based on your recommendations! I do have a list of what I would like to see in the museum. Will plot those out ahead of time. As for her, and prob her brother bc he just follows her lead and doesn’t want to be seen as less of an academic lol, I will most likely have to drag her out of there!

AmandaR, I would have flown into Edinburgh if this was the original plan, but I bought our tickets almost a year out thinking we were going to be based for most of the week in Arran, so we are going to need to keep with this route. It’s not non-stop, which gives me pause knowing we are flight novices, but it’s also with British Air which we have preferred over flying United. Hopefully all will go smoothly!

Thanks again for all of your input. I’m glad to hear I am maybe on the right track!

Great advice mardee on the directions out of the airport and to the train station. Thank you! Writing those down now. Also for the info on taxis, sharing and pricing. I didn’t know about that. I’ve downloaded the various bus apps In Edinburgh and Glasgow; I will do the taxis as well now.

I appreciate all of you greatly!

I don't know if it matters to you, but you'll be walking uphill starting at Holyroodhouse and heading to the Castle.

Sounds like you have a great plan B since the hiking trip is out.

Hi jeanm, thanks for the heads up on the incline. The reason I put the Palace first is bc it opens earlier on that Sunday than the other sites we wanted to see. Fingers crossed that walking uphill won’t be too much of an issue.

Another thing I just learned today is the tours of Paisley Abbey are only on Tuesday and Thursday. So we may substitute something else there unless we just stay in Glasgow and see more. Could going to Stirling and the Castle be an option and give us time to come back to the Kelvingrove and dinner?

There ARE two trains an hour from Central to Edinburgh, via Shotts- one all stations, the other semi fast. They are 2 or 4 car diesels.
Equally the 500 bus next stops straight outside Queen Street Station for the two electric routes, with far longer trains.
It then continues to Buchanan Bus Station for bus connections.
There are thus options, none right or wrong. But I wouldn't normally choose a train from Central, unless Queen Street routes were heavily disrupted.

You'll probably make enough stops on the walk that you won't feel the climb too much.

Stirling would be a great choice. Frequent trains from Queen Street Station.

Also, if you want a taste of Arran, Rabbie's, and probably others, do a day tour. I don't know if it would be feasible in a day by public transportation.

Mustlovedogs, Stuart is right. I don't know why I wrote Central station, but it will be quicker to stay on the purple bus until you get to Queen Street station, which is about a half mile past Central. You will actually get off at the Cathedral St. exit and then just walk a minute or two to Queen Street.

It leaves about every 30 minutes via ScotRail and should get you there in 45 to 75 minutes, depending on when you leave.

Sounds like a lovely trip. For the Monday, if you are choosing between South Queensferry and North Berwick I would personally select North Berwick. I don't think there's a whole lot to do in South Queensferry beyond seeing the bridge or taking the train to the other side and seeing the aquarium. North Berwick is a great way to see the coast, has a nice beach, and you can climb North Berwick Law if you feel up to it. There's also the Scottish Seabird Centre.

If you're going to Leith definitely visit the Royal Yacht Britannia- as a royal residence it feels a lot more personal than most of the palaces and seems to give a really good sense of how the royals spent their time.

For the Willow Tea Rooms, for me most of the experience is the design/architecture rather than the food, altho it's been quite some time since I last ate there so can't comment on the current quality! But if you like Rennie Mackintosh it's a must-see. Good luck with your planning!

I have no specific breakfast recs for Durham, if only because the earliest time I could ever get there would be 10.15.
I would either be using the wonderful pie stall on Carlisle Station or going to the Centurion pub on Newcastle Central Station, very well converted from the original first class waiting room.
If you'd booked your Edinburgh to Durham ticket on the Scotrail website you could probably have got 1st class for a very affordable upgrade, due to split ticketing. That would have included full breakfast. I had that on LNER 6 or 7 weeks ago on a much shorter journey. It was good. Would have saved time, and dining on a train (like on Amtrak transcontinentals) is always a bit special.
A few days beforehand you could go onto the Seatfrog app and bid for a 1st class upgrade.

I just knew I should’ve checked in before buying those train tickets to Durham. I thought I was being savvy buying early to get a good rate, but could’ve been even savvier! ;)

I will look into downloading the Seatfrog app (another unknown option to me) and maybe we can get lucky and upgrade our seats. If not, we’ll just probably get a grab and go breakfast at either of the train stations.

If we do get to Newcastle, any good dinner spots there? Nothing fancy/ $$$ really. I’m not a big meat eater- vegetarian-lite I guess. Same with daughter. Son eats any and all.

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

I'm going to suggest the Royal Station Hotel. Turn right out of the station and it's on your right.
As it's name suggests it was one of the great Railway hotels of the UK, now privately owned- rather like the Canadian railways did. As well as meals they also do a choice of afternoon teas - traditional or Geordie themed.
The Grand Voco at Glasgow Central is another.

PS- Another thought - if you like Indian food you could try Valley Junction 397 at Jesmond. It is in an old train car, and is a second outlet to the original Valley at Corbridge Station. Both get excellent reviews.

Your days sound absolutely packed, too packed to my thoughts - just reading it makes me feel as if you are running from location to location to tick off a list, but you know your travel companions and how they like to travel.

Re Glasgow:
If you have tea at McIntosh at the Willow make sure you book your seating well in advance, especially if you want to have it in the fanciest, restored room upstairs - the name is escaping me at the moment, and make sure you go to the right place. I enjoyed the tea there. When I was there several groups walked in hoping to have tea- no luck as all booked up and a few people came that meant to go the The Willow Tea Room.

Walking though Kelvingrove Park is lovely and you can get up to the University of Glasgow and see the cloisters, though this will involve some uphill walking.

Edinburgh

In Edinburgh I stayed the the York Place PI - nice room, good bed, no noise heard from adjacent rooms; very helpful staff when I left my phone on the Rabbie's bus my second day . My first day there I walked up half of the Royal Mile and then went to Dean village in the afternoon. I had to go back to the hotel and sleep a bit as I could barely walk without stumbling in the afternoon - overnight flight and I didn't sleep at all.
Dean Village and Leith are a fair distance apart. The tram on the York Place PI street goes to Leith.

Yes the National Musuem of Scotland is huge - scope out what interests you and your group = there is so much so choose from.

Susan, thank you for the input and suggestions. Hopefully we will get to a lot of the places on our itinerary, but if not, c’est la vie. In our past trips, changes and additions have proven to be serendipitous, too, so we look forward to those!

I will check on making reservations at MacIntosh at the Willow. They have two tea rooms - front saloon and back saloon- that look like we would enjoy. The front is said to be light and airy, the one at the back described as cozy. There is a mezzanine area, too, but the website said it is not always available. I’m leaning toward the front saloon if we can visit. It looks like such a beautiful space.

For Newcastle:

Khaikhai or Dabbawal, if you like Indian
For Chinese, head to Stowell Street
For British, Blackfriars or Dobson and Parnell
For Italian, Pani's.

For a friendly pub, the Crown Posada.

Lots of choice.

MLD, I sat in the front tearooms and it was very light and airy. Plus you could see what was going on outside, which I enjoyed.

That said, I was there in May and there were only a few other people there in the front salon when I was there. It's possible they book up in the height of summer, but I doubt you have to book all that far ahead; especially for September. There is a lot of seating available.

I personally loved the afternoon tea service at the Macintosh, so it's a matter of taste. Granted the afternoon tea menu is 70% desserts, but you won't hear me complaining about that!

When I went for afternoon tea at McIntosh at the Willow I was on the main level (entry level). You can have your table for 1 1/2 hours from what I recall when I was there in September 2023. I booked about 2 -3 weeks in advance.

If you like Indian food, Mother India is across the street from the Kelvingrove. Also nearby is BrewDog - mostly burgers- really good but a huge portion!/ pub food and craft beer.