Scotland Itinerary Thoughts

Two nights is really only one full day in a spot, especially given the distances and ferry bottlenecks. You also may find it difficult to find reservations for a trip if you mean this year, Skye in particular.

You'll find a lot of controversy about which of your stops to abandon. I'd skip Loch Lomond as a first victim. The next domino is a lot tougher.

Well, you certainly picked some wonderful places. But I do agree that you might get more enjoyment out of the places if you stay a little bit longer in each one and omit something.

You might consider leaving Arran off. It’s a lovely island and I enjoyed my time there, but I was in Scotland for three weeks and I spent three nights on Arran, four nights on Mull and four nights on Skye. Either that or remove Loch Lomond. Then take those two nights and add them to Mull and Skye.

Another thought is that you take a night or two off of Edinburgh. It’s a lovely city, but it’s small and you can easily see it with 3 to 4 nights there.

I’m going to agree with jjgurley and put Loch Lomond at the top of the list of those to be cut. Since you like less crowded places, I think you would really enjoy Arran.

There’s another place that you might want to go to while you’re on sky and that is the aisle of Raamsay, which is usually pretty desolate because a lot of people don’t know about it. It’s about a five minute ferry ride from Skye and it’s a beautiful island and there’s very few people there. You could easily spend the day there getting in some hiking, going to the distillery and having lunch at the café at the end there. That’s about all that’s on the island so there’s not a whole lot to do if you don’t like hiking but it’s a nice place.

I also just saw that you were planning this for April and May. JJ is right in that this is very late in the game to be planning for accommodations and so on. Scotland has a shortage of housing and even without that, it’s always had a problem accommodating the tourists who flock to the islands during the spring and summer. You shouldn’t have a problem with Edinburgh but with the islands and especially Skye, you might. I would start now looking to see what you can come up with

I like Mardee's suggestions. When you say you are spending 5 days in Edinburgh, do you mean 6 nights (which gives you 5 days) or do you mean 5 nights? We loved Edinburgh, but I agree that it is small, and I think 4 nights will be a good alternative. Then you can take 1 or 2 nights from Edinburgh to add elsewhere. I would remove Loch Lomond, too. Add extra nights to Mull, Skye, and Glen Coe.

And JJ and mardee are correct that this is late planning for this April/May.

I should have added but didn't get back in time:

Five nights in Edinburgh is really overkill unless you really love specific places, shopping, or loitering in cafes. I'd much rather keep an island that see one more museum. Five mile per day is not too serious a limit (I might be able to do 6mi). Most trails are fairly civil (graveled, not too steep, etc.).

Is this trip for 2026? If so, you probably won't find lodging on Skye this late date.
Have you driven on the left side of the road before? Last May 1, we stayed on Arran 2 nights; it was their summer. It was grand to explore, particularly Machrie Mor standing stones. These were a 1.5 mile walk in on a rocked road and we had it to ourselves in the evening. However, it was the hardest to drive of the 3 trips I've driven in Great Brittain. These were 1 lane roads with passing spots. The signs at bridges and road crests stated something to the effect "Oncoming Traffic in the Center of the Road".

Yes unfortunately I will be in EDI for 5 nights, my parents joining me those last two so I didn't want to take away all their time in edinburgh by leaving after one night. Otherwise, would definitely take time away from edinburgh.

In response to people's feedback I'm considering:
Arran (2 nights)
Mull (3 nights)
Skye (3 nights)
Glencoe (2 nights)

I'd have to drive from Glencoe back to EDI airport, but our flight isn't until 230 PM. That was another pro of Luss/Loch Lamond.

Your revised plan looks much better. For accommodation in Skye try the Facebook group Rooms In Skye which aims to match providers with availability to those seeking accommodation.

Glencoe to EDI in time for your flight is possible but I’d be tempted to only spend a night in Glencoe and head for a hotel nearer the airport on the second evening. Depending on budgets you could stay in the Hilton at North Queensferry, enjoy views of the 3 Forth Bridges and have a last dinner in the Wee Restaurant down in the village almost under the Forth Rail Bridge. Or you could stay in Dunfermline at the Holiday Inn Express. Either are just a short drive to the airport. Or you could stay right close to the airport terminal building at the Moxy hotel.

Personally I never like to leave a long drive to the airport as delays happen due to road accidents. I’d even find Luss problematic for EDI as it’s not a good road from there to EDI airport.

I'd also be very twitchy driving from Glencoe to Edinburgh for a 2.30 flight. What time is check in? I'd want to allow at least three hours for the drive. Don't forget you also need to allow time to drop off the car too.

I'd be wanting to stop a lot closer to the airport. As well as Skygirl's suggestions have a think about Stirling, Falkirk (for Flakirk Wheel and the Kelpies) or Linlithgow. Plan on a leisurely drive back to the airport next morning.

If this is for this year you need to be very careful and flexible with the ferries for Arran.
There is a lack of ships, and the timetables are literally changing weekly, if not more often as ships are shuffled around. Even the mainland port of Troon or Ardrossan keeps changing. Sometimes Troon only or Ardrossan only or both. Some ships fit in one, not the other, hence the swooping round.

All this is adding to the pressure on the Lochranza sailings.

Definitely a time when travelling by public transport to Arran gives a lot more flexibility than being burdened with a car.

At least they seem to have sorted out the ferries to Mull as that also looked like it was going to have it's service halved, with a one ship service from Oban.

Bute would be a good substitute for Arran- much easier currently to and from currently.

I agree that it's not a good idea to spend your last night in Glencoe. As much as I love the Glencoe area, I think you should spend one night in Glencoe and spend your last night near the airport. We stayed at the Edinburgh Dakota, which is about 10 minutes from the airport. They provide a complimentary shuttle van service to the airport. They have a very nice bar and restaurant, where we had dinner our last night. The dinner was delicious, and I believe the chef has won awards. Their breakfast buffet the next morning, which was included in the rate, is outstanding.

This is an update on the ferries to/from the Isle of Arran: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/brodick-ferry

Last year, they had similar, though not as drastic problems with ferries. Last year, Calmac halted bookings to Arran and were bumping pre-booked ferry slots, because the replacement ferries had less capacity and some sailings were over-booked.

Hi, mimi, first, I meant to put this in before but forgot. This is my trip report from my trip to Scotland in 2023, where I went to Arran, Mull, and Skye, and some other places as well, which you may find helpful. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/solo-in-scotland-trains-cars-and-ferries-and-a-wee-dram-or-two

With regards to the ferry, it's true that Arran is having problems, although hopefully it will be possibly cleared up by late April or early May. I know that Stuart suggested you go to Bute, which is certainly an alternative, although it does have a very different look from Arran. But you also just might consider taking those two nights that you were going to spend on Arran and applying them to Mull and Skye. Both of them could easily use another night. But of course, the ferries may be working by the time you are there, so it won't be a problem, and you should be able to find that out before you head to Ardrossan.

Also, here is a link to the Facebook page that Skyegirl mentioned. I'm glad to know that it's back up and running. I think it stopped for a while, but it is a good way to find accommodations there. https://www.facebook.com/groups/221078814100026

I forgot that I also wanted to mention something about car rentals. I don't know if you've already booked a car, but I highly recommend Arnold Clark. They are a car rental company based in the UK, and I've rented from them twice with great success both times. The first time was when I was in Scotland, and the second time in England. Their agents are extremely courteous. They've always given me great cars and sometimes upgraded me for free. Plus they take the time to explain all the details of the contract and the fine print and make sure that you understand it. This to me was invaluable.

You can rent from Arnold Clark directly, or you can rent through Celtic Legend, which acts sort of like a consolidator for them. I've done both, and both times it was very satisfactory. I would certainly check both companies and get quotes from each to see which one will save you the most money. One advantage to booking with Celtic Legend is that they often give you extra perks like an extra driver for free or a free sat nav (GPS), although I prefer using Google Maps.

Regardless, Arnold Clark has a number of locations, including two right outside of Edinburgh; one at the airport and one at the Sighthill location, which is easy to get to by a cab or bus. That way you don't have to drive in the city, which I do not recommend.

https://www.arnoldclarkrental.com/
https://www.celticlegend.co.uk/car-rental/

And one more thought about driving in Scotland:

In terms of driving itself, driving on the left is fairly easy. After the first couple of minutes, you'll get the hang of it. Just remember when you first start up the car to think to yourself, "Go left." That's the time when you forget. Some folks put little notes on the dash. The first time, I messed up leaving the parking lot but after that I was fine (and so was the other driver who politely waited for me to come to my senses and get in the correct lane).

The hardest part of driving involves the single-track roads. Not only are the roads narrow, but there is no shoulder, so you have to be careful not to veer too quickly to the right or left, as you can ruin a tire by going off the road. Keep in mind there are plenty of passing places, and you'll get the etiquette down pretty quickly. Here's one video that is helpful: Driving on Single Track Roads

On Skye, some of the roads have heavy potholes you need to watch out for (although they may have been fixed by now). There are some good roads there, though. For example, the road from Armadale to Portree is a 2 lane well-kept road. Mull's roads were generally pretty decent but mostly single-track. In other places outside of the islands, they get a lot easier.

Things change on a dime, the Oban to Craignure (Mull) sailings are again having problems today and tomorrow as one of their ships also has a technical problem, and the relief vessel has weather limitations, with bad weather forecast.

Some vehicle traffic is being sent round to Lochaline, a first come first served route.

Also the Mallaig to Armadale (Skye) ferry now has very limited vehicle availability until 13 May because it is operating as a single vessel with one small ferry.

It is a charter vessel until 7 April, with almost no vehicle capacity, but plenty of foot passenger capacity.

It can't be emphasized enough that the whole CalMac ferry system is in a very fragile condition currently and will be until the end of May- going to any island (especially by car) you have to be ready to cope with the unexpected.

Or you could stay in Dunfermline at the Holiday Inn Express.

This is what I did when I was bringing back my rental car. I stayed at the Premier Inn in Dunfermline, which has very reasonable prices, comparable to Holiday Inn Express (which is also good), and it's only 20 minutes from Edinburgh Airport.

I loved Dunfermline and would recommend a visit. You can see Dunfermline Abbey and the outside of the Palace ruins, but I would also recommend strolling through Pittencrieff Park (donated by Andrew Carnegie who was born there). The park is huge (76 acres) and is really beautiful. It has a number of memorials there, along with the Pittencrieff House Museum, and the statue of Andrew Carnegie. It's also known for its resident peacocks, and the entrance is very close to Dunfermline Abbey..

If you go, sure you stop in the Abbey church, right next to the abbey and see the tomb of Robert the Bruce. Just look for the brass monumental marker that's set into the floor. https://dunfermlineabbey.com/robert-the-bruce/

Okay, I'll stop posting now! 😂

For the islands, I would recommend if you want Arran and or Mull, is both book them first and build around them. And also have a back up plan. Even if the back up plan would be sitting in a Costa on booking.com or the Premier Inn website.

For both I would also book the ferries as soon as you confirm the accomodation. Both the ferries and accomodation are limited. It is going to be another difficult year on the ferries and they've already become an election issue and it is only day one of the campaign.

If you are going to the Highlands and Islands as well and driving, also watch a few videos about the single track roads. I've just come back from a few days on Mull, and the standard has dropped from some drivers.

Thank you to everyone for your friendly and helpful posts! So much to consider and so many great links to explore. I have booked a car through Celtic Legend and am just tying up accommodations! Thanks to all!

Another interesting hotel in Dunfermline which you can only book direct (not on comparison websites) is the Guildhall and Linen Exchange- a Wetherspoons Hotel.
https://hotels.jdwetherspoon.com/

Wetherspoons have 55 hotels among their pub chain- all in interesting historical buildings, so a cut above the usual budget chains like Premier Inn, Holiday Inn, Ibis etc. While the food in their pubs may be a matter of debate I've stayed in a few of their hotels and have been very happy- it's certainly been a cut above your average Premier Inn each time.

I've seen the outside of the Guildhall and Linen Exchange- and it fits the historical brief to a T. It is exactly what the name suggests- the original Guildhall and Linen trading exchange from the glory days of the town, a beautiful looking building from the outside, as usual with Wetherspoons very well restored.

I'm about to press the button on booking 2 nights at their hotel in Bridgend (South Wales) in mid May (it's by far the best offer I can get for a Pembrokeshire visit), and am seriously looking at their properties in Canterbury and Kings Lynn (Norfolk)- where again if you choose your dates carefully the prices are extremely competitive.

They do also have properties in Edinburgh (The White Lady) and in Broughty Ferry (just beyond Dundee)- Broughty Ferry is one of those lovely little towns which many tourists miss.

On Skye, some of the roads have heavy potholes you need to watch out for (although they may have been fixed by now). There are some good roads there, though. For example, the road from Armadale to Portree is a 2 lane well-kept road. Mull's roads were generally pretty decent but mostly single-track. In other places outside of the islands, they get a lot easier.

Just seen your advice Mardee, good as usual!

I'd add, some of the potholes are now registered with Historic Scotland so cannot be touched... On a serious side both the Scottish Government and local government seem to have been spending a lot on road repairs this year so far, so a lot has improved. They have 'found the box of fivers', you'd never guess we have an election.

For driving on the left, like for us on the right, this can be one of the jobs if you have a passenger. To remind the drive to keep left. Along with passing the snacks or sweeties.

I'd add, some of the potholes are now registered with Historic Scotland so cannot be touched..

Hahahahaha!!!

I've never found driving on the left to be all that difficult. It becomes intuitive after the first five minutes, at least in my case. In fact, when I get back to the States afterwards, I have the same problem, but in reverse. The only place you really have to be careful is with the roundabouts, because you're driving into them in the opposite direction of how you would in the States. When there are multiple lanes in a roundabout, it can get very confusing.

Here is an update on road conditions on Isle of Skye: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/start-of-the-tourist-season-in-skye-and-already-traffic-chaos

Added: This new April 4th post about more problems getting to Arran: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/brodick-ferry